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Old 06-19-2013, 09:48 PM   #26
nsime298
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Yes all plugs were tight.
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:29 PM   #27
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Compression looks good!!! Those guages aren't known for accuracy, but it's high with very little variance so win all around.
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:23 AM   #28
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It ddoesn't look like any of your plugs are fully seated. The crush washers don't look crushed at all and if the were firmly seated to the head you wouldn't have that corrosion build up on the supposed sealing surface. This is what mine look like. Notice the crush on the crush washers/gaskets

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Old 06-20-2013, 05:54 AM   #29
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he is right, looks like you didnt tighten the plugs enough. I ussually tighten them where i think they're tight, then give em a 1/8 of a turn.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:43 AM   #30
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Good to know, I torqued them down pretty tight this time so hopefully it will be better. Should I still do a leakdown test? I have a compressor at home, does anyone know of a write-up that tells how to preform one?
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:32 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamble_WRX View Post
he is right, looks like you didnt tighten the plugs enough. I ussually tighten them where i think they're tight, then give em a 1/8 of a turn.
There may be carbon build up on the threads at that tightness is giving the impression that the plugs are tight but if they aren't sealing on crush washer surface they arent' tight enough. It would be good to pull one and make sure they are actually seating.

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Good to know, I torqued them down pretty tight this time so hopefully it will be better. Should I still do a leakdown test? I have a compressor at home, does anyone know of a write-up that tells how to preform one?
Your compression #'s are fine so I don't think a leakdown test is 100% necessary right now. Not having the plugs fully tightened down may explain why they have been burning up to. The heads act as a heat sink for the spark plugs.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:10 AM   #32
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Awesome, so I guess it's time to call the tuner, or should I be looking at replacing parts first?
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:31 PM   #33
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No need to be replacing parts as long as you are leak free and CEL free. Make sure all your mechanical stuff is 100% before you go to your tuner, it will save you alot of $ and headache.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:44 PM   #34
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No need to be replacing parts as long as you are leak free and CEL free. Make sure all your mechanical stuff is 100% before you go to your tuner, it will save you alot of $ and headache.
See that's just it. I still have codes for misfires and turbo solenoid.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:35 PM   #35
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If you are using the nbc you will always have the solenoid code unless your tuner disables them. Change your plugs again and make sure they are seated this time and continue with the troubleshooting.

Compression was good now make sure you dont have any intake tract leaks.

Are you resetting the ecu after you change plugs?

Last edited by kellygnsd; 06-20-2013 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 06-20-2013, 02:24 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
If you are using the nbc you will always have the solenoid code unless your tuner disables them.
Not necessarily, if his mbc is adjusted at or below the boost levels defined in the ecu, the solenoid CEL shouldnt come on.
I've never had to disable any bcs solenoid code on both my 205 and 207 when I ran a mbc, that is with the stock bcs in both situations ..just hanging there plugged or unplugged.

OP should definitely reset the ecu and see if the related CELs come on after seating the plugs correctly.
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Old 06-20-2013, 02:41 PM   #37
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Yeah, he said it was initially set at 22 psi and wasn't sure if it had a tune on it though. He turned the MBC down to 18 and still had the code so I'm thinking the lack of tune or whoever tuned it previously didn't take into account the MBC.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:41 AM   #38
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I'm going to replace the plugs this weekend. After the compression test I put the old plugs back in, tightened them down like everyone keeps suggesting, and I'm still getting misfires. Can someone suggest the best plugs to use? I've used NGK platinum in almost every motor I've ever owned (car or otherwise) and had thought they were good quality. If anyone has a different suggestion I would be happy to hear it.

What other reasons could cause misfires aside from the plugs?
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:03 AM   #39
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Im sure someone will disagree but Id say run coppers. BKR6E and gap them at .028-.030"

Those plugs where not tightened down. the crush ring isnt really even touched.

Get fresh plugs and intall.

Last edited by rexworx; 06-21-2013 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:13 AM   #40
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Sorry if off topic (should dial 3 posts to create new themes)! Please help a good guy from Siberia. I do not know how to fix p2014-Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit. I thought of TGV sensors, but do not have them on my engine (in their place plugs). My car is JDM SUBARU FORESTER `02 XT MT. What else could this error mean? May be coolant temperature sensor does not work stable?
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:29 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsime298 View Post
I'm going to replace the plugs this weekend. After the compression test I put the old plugs back in, tightened them down like everyone keeps suggesting, and I'm still getting misfires. Can someone suggest the best plugs to use? I've used NGK platinum in almost every motor I've ever owned (car or otherwise) and had thought they were good quality. If anyone has a different suggestion I would be happy to hear it.

What other reasons could cause misfires aside from the plugs?
Coil packs can cause misfires. Usually whatever plugs the factory reccomends are the ones i use. If i remember right my last WRX liked NGK Iridiums. i have some coil packs, but they came with my car, and i have no clue of their condition. i kept the other set off my last WRX, but theyre in my toolbox at my dads, and my wife and my parents arent on good terms right now, so i wont have access to them for a month or so (im deployed). if your intake manifold is cracked, and you have a stocker laying around, swap them out first. its not very complicated and you can do it in probably 2 hours if youve never done it before. if you still have misfires, ill trade you the four coils i got in my car for the cracked obx. :P the car i bought ran with no problems before the PO blew the engine, so im sure the coils are fine.

Last edited by Gamble_WRX; 06-22-2013 at 02:35 AM.
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:07 AM   #42
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Guys, well, help. You only hope. 2 weeks I struggle with the problem. There are no experts in the Russian province
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:21 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvvk View Post
Guys, well, help. You only hope. 2 weeks I struggle with the problem. There are no experts in the Russian province
Create a new thread for your problems, don't hijack others. Include car model, ECU, mods, and any recent work done.
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:34 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsime298 View Post
I'm going to replace the plugs this weekend. After the compression test I put the old plugs back in, tightened them down like everyone keeps suggesting, and I'm still getting misfires. Can someone suggest the best plugs to use? I've used NGK platinum in almost every motor I've ever owned (car or otherwise) and had thought they were good quality. If anyone has a different suggestion I would be happy to hear it.

What other reasons could cause misfires aside from the plugs?
Have you pressure tested the intake tract to check for vacuum leaks yet? If you are 100% sure the manifold is cracked you need to change in out. A pressure test will tell you all you need to know.

Last edited by kellygnsd; 06-23-2013 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:57 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
Create a new thread for your problems, don't hijack others. Include car model, ECU, mods, and any recent work done.
What he said
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:58 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
Have you pressure tested the intake tract to check for vacuum leaks yet? If you are 100% sure the manifold is cracked you need to change in out. A pressure test will tell you all you need to know.
How do I pressure test the intake? I've never even heard of that being done...
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:57 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
Create a new thread for your problems, don't hijack others. Include car model, ECU, mods, and any recent work done.
I`d like to create new thread, but you rules "you must have 3 or more legitimate replies in other threads on NASIOC in order to create a new thread in this forum". Sorry for being distracted and for my english
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:28 AM   #48
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No response on how to pressure test an intake manifold?
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:32 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsime298 View Post
No response on how to pressure test an intake manifold?
I hate quoting my own posts but I just found these links:

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/genera...tructions.html

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=879900

Thoughts?
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:37 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by rexworx View Post
Im sure someone will disagree but Id say run coppers. BKR6E and gap them at .028-.030"

Those plugs where not tightened down. the crush ring isnt really even touched.

Get fresh plugs and intall.

Just a FYI but BKR6E is no longer a full Copper Plug. As a matter of fact NGK and Champion both went away from copper plugs.
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