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Old 06-20-2013, 08:57 PM   #1
jaov2k
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Default dd -> track -> dd

I only have one car, my Subaru. I'd like to use a track quality brake setup. From what I've read there really isn't a compromise in the pads. In addition, from the reading I've done, the rotors also play an equally important roll do to bedding, committing the pad/rotor pair to one another.

As such, is it realistic, to swap my dd set of pads and rotors with my track set the day before or on track day?

I've never replaced my rotors or pads, so I really don't know how long it would take me to do all four tires. I've watched the YouTube videos and they make it seem like a 20min process. But those are mechanics in full service garages.

But even if it takes me four hours to do it, I wouldn't mind. I just want to know whether its a realistic practice considering my one car limitation.

I do plan to permanently replace the brake lines with ss and the fluid with super blue.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:12 PM   #2
JDwhiteWRX
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I change all brake pads front & rear to race pads and also swap front rotors before each track day, when swapping back to street pads/rotors I give the brakes a quick bleed after pushing the pistons back in the calipers to change pads.

Takes me about 40 minutes to do the swap.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:13 AM   #3
tratpop
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do you do that at the track? or the day before and drive there adn home on track pads?
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:32 AM   #4
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It's really easy to change pads. It's only one bolt to remove to slide open the pad 'holders'. You don't have to remove the calipers from the hub. If you can change a tire, you can do pads at the same time (after some cooling of course).

--kC
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:45 AM   #5
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How much track experience do you have? A n00b on the track is fine with stock street stuff. Once you learn how to go fast and start boiling brake fluid, you'll want to find ways to eliminate that problem. Track pads with dedicated rotors is certainly one way. Going with extremely high temp fluid is another. We're talking 635F kind of stuff, not the crap that ATE puts out (535F).
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tratpop View Post
do you do that at the track? or the day before and drive there adn home on track pads?
Usually do it the night before or maybe a couple of nights before.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaov2k View Post
I only have one car, my Subaru. I'd like to use a track quality brake setup. From what I've read there really isn't a compromise in the pads. In addition, from the reading I've done, the rotors also play an equally important roll do to bedding, committing the pad/rotor pair to one another.

As such, is it realistic, to swap my dd set of pads and rotors with my track set the day before or on track day?

I've never replaced my rotors or pads, so I really don't know how long it would take me to do all four tires. I've watched the YouTube videos and they make it seem like a 20min process. But those are mechanics in full service garages.

But even if it takes me four hours to do it, I wouldn't mind. I just want to know whether its a realistic practice considering my one car limitation.

I do plan to permanently replace the brake lines with ss and the fluid with super blue.
Your car is 2012, then I doubt the SS brake lines are going to help much. And if you're relatively new to track days, then it'll probably hurt you. I did my SS lines back when I had like 15k miles on the car. Besides a more abrupt initial application, the brakes felt exactly the same. And that abrupt initial application actually made it less smooth of an application and I had to relearn my braking style. Instead, I'd recommend a brake booster brace, which helps the bottom of the braking feel.

Like Jackxxx said, if you're new, then a mostly stock setup is fine. The fluid is good, and an intermediate pad would be good enough for a beginner, assuming you're on street tires and close to stock power. Once you go race pad, then it's easier to have a separate set of rotors (blanks good enough) to match the race pads. Assuming you're not trailoring the car, install them the day before and realize that cold race pads won't have as much bite as you drive to the venue. Then after the track day is done, swap the pads/rotors back to street.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:50 PM   #8
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I tracked my old '05 STi and it was my daily driver as well.

The only thing I swapped was the pads (PFC 01 for track, Project Mu B-Force for street). I used the same rotors (DBA 4000) on and off the track with no problems at all (with the exception of accelerated wear from the track).

Easing in to the brakes during the first session was all I need to do to get them going again.
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd 05 sti View Post
I tracked my old '05 STi and it was my daily driver as well.

The only thing I swapped was the pads (PFC 01 for track, Project Mu B-Force for street). I used the same rotors (DBA 4000) on and off the track with no problems at all (with the exception of accelerated wear from the track).

Easing in to the brakes during the first session was all I need to do to get them going again.
this is what I do. Swap in track pads before I go to the track day. drive home with them and change the pads afterwards.

Driving home with the track pads cleans off the pad deposits (harder compound) off the rotors. This prevents the feeling of warped rotors (usually just pad deposits).
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:00 PM   #10
jaov2k
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack ffr1846 View Post
How much track experience do you have? A n00b on the track is fine with stock street stuff. Once you learn how to go fast and start boiling brake fluid, you'll want to find ways to eliminate that problem. Track pads with dedicated rotors is certainly one way. Going with extremely high temp fluid is another. We're talking 635F kind of stuff, not the crap that ATE puts out (535F).
No track experience, but I have done mountain roads. While not as intense as a track day, the brakes did manage to get less responsive. Whether it was the pads glazing, the fluid boiling, the lines expanding, or all of the above I do not know. This was on another vehicle, a 2011 genesis. As a result I determined that stock braking equipment was not reliable for "sporty" driving contrary to what the dealer/manufacturer may have you believe.

On the other hand a track is not a mountain road. I have no risk of on coming traffic or careening of the edge. Therefore the brake upgrade can wait until I've gained greater comfort in the track environment. Of course there is no urgency in the matter, but would simply like to maximize my learning experience while at the track, learning lines and such, with out having to worry about inept equipment.

I'm hesitant to return to the mountain roads with this car in an attempt to repeat the stressing of the brakes prior to the track day due to safety concerns. Perhaps I will simply have to use my first track day as the car's stress day and take it from there.

Thanks for everyone's response. From what I've read thus far it does seem like a legitimate practice to replace the pads/rotors before and after the track event. Hopefully, ill be able to acquire a trailer/towing setup sooner than later.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:06 PM   #11
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I used to run track pads/rotors on my wagon. As I was using full -race pads, I changed them at the track before & after. I had a matched set of rotors labeled Left Right with the pads labeled as well. I bedded them in the first time, and never had to do it again. The first lap or so I took it easy until the pads got warm (you can put your foot lightly on the trakes to heat them faster).

Driving high-performance pads on the street are ok, as long as you allow them to heat up sufficiently. If you are driving track pads on the street, they will be unlikely to heat up enough to eb useable leading to greatly increased wear and very poor stopping .
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:27 PM   #12
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To answer your question about how hard it is, it is not hard to change the rotors.

Assuming the newer cars are the same as my 2003, there are two bolts that hold the entire caliper assembly onto the hub. Once you have the pads out, remove these two bolts, slide the assembly off, swap the rotor, slide the assembly back on, and torque the 2 bolts. They can be a bit fiddly to get started because they are facing away from you, but it's really not bad. Now insert the new pads and finish the job.

I haven't done the rear rotors for a while, so I don't remember if the handbrake makes it harder. I don't think so.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:30 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack ffr1846 View Post
. Going with extremely high temp fluid is another. We're talking 635F kind of stuff, not the crap that ATE puts out (535F).
Hmmm....I ran the ATE fluid on my last ~500hp track setup no problem...roughly 85 track days.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:57 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Teutonic Speedracer View Post
Hmmm....I ran the ATE fluid on my last ~500hp track setup no problem...roughly 85 track days.
I picked up a bottle of motul 600 yesterday as I walked by one of the vendors at summer solstice s3... $15, I figured I'd get one less thing of the list. Ill try super blue next time.
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:50 AM   #15
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i have been running xp8 pads for roughly 3k street miles. They stop better cold than stock pads. There is an initial odd .05second of wierdness when really cold but other than that they are fine.

However I learned that xp8 fronts are not up to par for my weight / hp.

Anyone need a full set lightly used f/r subaru brembo xp8 pads?
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:03 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaov2k View Post

I picked up a bottle of motul 600 yesterday as I walked by one of the vendors at summer solstice s3... $15, I figured I'd get one less thing of the list. Ill try super blue next time.
Stick with the motul. With ate I was flushing a lot more. Granted my car only makes 250 and not 500 so that could be the difference
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:56 AM   #17
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i ran stoptechs with DTC70 street/track with no issues.. agreed with what people have said, track pads stop way better on the street than normal pads..

if you can live with some squealing noises, then there is no need to run 2 sets of brakes IMO..

however, i only drive ~500km/month.. so my wrx was less of a daily driver than some of you..
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:26 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by rjrutzky View Post
Stick with the motul. With ate I was flushing a lot more. Granted my car only makes 250 and not 500 so that could be the difference
I did alway flush some fluid a few days before an event unless there was less than a few weeks between events (keeping it much closer to the dry vs wet boiling).
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