Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday July 23, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Subaru Conversions

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-01-2013, 07:33 PM   #26
Hondaslayer
Purified Dick
Moderator
 
Member#: 4562
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Auburn, WA
Vehicle:
1995 Legacy LSi
1998 Forester, lifted.

Default

Just a heads up with that Harbor Freight drill.

Open the chuck all the way and remove the screw (large phillips head) apply a little thread lock then put it back in (tight) After doing that mine has been dead nuts reliable. The first I had the screw came all the way out and damaged the chuck. They replace it under warranty and the second one did the same thing. Fortunately I caught it before it damaged the chuck.

That drill is probably the best $10 I have spent on a tool. I have had several Ryobis and DeWalts (cordless) that all went to **** in just over a year. After locktite on the screw that drill has been going for over 2 years with no sign of quitting.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Hondaslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2013, 07:45 PM   #27
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondaslayer View Post
Just a heads up with that Harbor Freight drill.

Open the chuck all the way and remove the screw (large phillips head) apply a little thread lock then put it back in (tight) After doing that mine has been dead nuts reliable. The first I had the screw came all the way out and damaged the chuck. They replace it under warranty and the second one did the same thing. Fortunately I caught it before it damaged the chuck.

That drill is probably the best $10 I have spent on a tool. I have had several Ryobis and DeWalts (cordless) that all went to **** in just over a year. After locktite on the screw that drill has been going for over 2 years with no sign of quitting.
I've had that drill for about 5 years now and never had any problems. I have a DeWalt and a Snap-On but when I'm doing grunt work I use my HF tools. Except for sockets and wrenches, cuz the HF ones break very easily. When it comes to sockets, its all about Craftsmen!
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2013, 12:23 AM   #28
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

got all of the bolts off of the rear subframe, and finished prep'n & painting the Rear F Lateral Links,


Put another Coating on the Rear Crossmember


Also a few coatings of this Rusto Rubberized Undercoating on the inside of the Crossmember


Then I Sanded and Cleaned and polished the Rear Diff up as good as I could




Then proceeded to throw a few coats of the VHT Engine enamel on it.




Then after all that, I mowed my yard and somehow pulled a muscle in my lower back, and couldn't get outta bed to go to work this morning. So now I'm laying on a heating pad, Surfing the web looking for parts. Swapping the Lateral link bushings for Pillowball, and the end links for some Whitelines, and then all the rest for some polyurethane Whiteline bushings. Has anyone ever replaced the rubber bushings in the Crossmember where the Rear Diff bolts in? They seem pretty damn flimsy.

Sent to you using TapaTalk with my Mind!
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2013, 12:25 AM   #29
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

I realize that I haven't been making a lot of progress on my swap, and for that I apologize. I know everyone wants to see a gazillion photos, and see the whole thing done in a week. But since I am doing this whole project by myself, with absolutely ZERO help, things haven't been moving as fast as I'd like. Yesterday I FINALLY made it down to DMV with the 95 and got the title changed over to my name! So now the swap can really begin. I just didn't feel right doing anything major until I did that, so.... Today I almost got the entire interior gutted, with only the HVAC and whatnot left to remove...


















So as you can see I got all the interior out, and the dash, and also, WHO NEED DRY ICE!?! When I took the carpet out, it was obvious that ppl had spilt many pops and maybe even a few beers, this thing was a Rental car at one point! Talk about a serious rescue right! haha.. but the sound deadening was all gummy in one spot so I just decided to swing away with a pick hammer, and to my surprise it just started to come up in Big chunks, so I almost got all of it, except for the piece over the tunnel section where the e-brake is, and I think ima leave that there anyways, so I just saved $50 in dry ice! The trunk on the other hand is ridiculous. Someone spilled a quart or two of oil in the spare tire compartment and thought it was a good idea to put a bunch of rags on it all, but it just made one big nasty soupy sludge of a mess. It was prolly there for a good 1-2 years! So I almost have that cleaned up as well, but its guna take a good once over with a pressure washer maybe before its ready for paint. So, Besides that, I think I will prolly finish the inside tomorrow, then start on the engine bay ASAP. Believe me, I am ready to see this thing come together. A long ways to go tho . Still have to paint the interior white, I'm going with sonic blue mica for the engine bay, and then I'm redoing the headliner, speaker shelf, and pillars in black ultrasuede, or maybe matching Alcantara like my seats. I also have plans for making door cards out of Plexiglass or Polished Aluminum, and instead of rear seats, I am fabricating a Plexiglass rear divider and covering it with ultrasuede as well. Maybe a double stitched Diamond tuck pattern to add some Subie Swag

Sent to you using Telekinesis

Last edited by WelDun1; 10-05-2013 at 04:57 PM.
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2013, 12:25 AM   #30
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Finished up with cleaning the inside, but still have to remove the harness & steering column, which I'm leaving in as long as possible for when I have to move it. & the trunk isn't quite finished, but damn does it look 10X better! I wasted a roll if paper towels, 2 rags, & a liter of gasoline cleaning up all that oil. In the end, the gasoline that I pour on it helped the best, thinning it out making it easier to pick up.
BueCar(BC) Said he could eat off of his floor, so I stepped it up a notch. There a lot of permanent marks that wouldn't come up, but I went Heat gun on that ass!

I got the floor pretty clean.....


The trunk after the first initial cleaning(it was. A LOT worse than this)



And after I got done with it today...

I still have to go over it once more before paint.







And the firewall with the harness and steering column left. Honestly, I would have had the harness out, but one of the clips to the engine harness was being a stubborn little eFFer , so I called it a day. Lol...


Sent to you using Telekinesis
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2013, 12:26 AM   #31
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

So I splurged on a FMIC over the Weekend. I got this bad boy from Doc Race, who is one of (if not) THE best Manifold Fabricator's in the North West! I got very lucky in getting this thing because as of right now they are on a 6-7 month wait period for any Custom Fab work, but the only reason that I even got this one is because they were using my buddy Teddy's extra S2000 engine for a model for their Front Facing Headers, and in the deal Teddy received a set of them in trade for the block. Long story short, they made him a FMIC which ended up being too small for his Precision 6262 700+whp S2k build, so they had to make him another one, and so I snagged this one up!

Dimensions of Core are 21x10x3



WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2013, 01:56 PM   #32
Devilteg
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 127545
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: NorthEast
Vehicle:
2013 XV
Dark Gray Metallic

Default

Nice piece man looks like that FMCI will collect a huge amount of air for your build.

How goes the rest of the prep did u start drilling out the spot welds yet?
Devilteg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2013, 05:04 PM   #33
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilteg View Post
Nice piece man looks like that FMCI will collect a huge amount of air for your build.

How goes the rest of the prep did u start drilling out the spot welds yet?
Thank Aaron, yeah I started to drill some of the welds out, and its fairly easy, just takes a few times to gauge the depth and strength needed to just go through the sub-panel and not the whole firewall(which I did a bunch of times) Lol I was using my Harbor Freight Heat gun to loosen the black crap up, but like Ryan was saying, I will need a propane torch to get it smoking hot, and loosen it up enough to pry it up easier and w/o bending it. I have these 2 panels to give me practice so I don't bend the RHD ones I'll need from the clip.

Here's a few pics of what I've done so far.

This is the 3/8 spot weld drill bit that I bought from Harbor Freight for $5 and its double sided so u can use each bit twice.



I used a hammer and awl to tap a starting point. Otherwise this thing runs all over the place.


Here you can see the spot welds that I actually drilled out pretty good. U can see that I didn't go all the way through the ones in the middle like the spot on the top right corner. If I have to, I can always weld it up.


After you drill them all out you have to pry up a little to get started, and this is where I will need to use the torch so it will come up easier.


Last edited by WelDun1; 08-01-2013 at 02:06 PM.
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2013, 08:58 AM   #34
Devilteg
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 127545
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: NorthEast
Vehicle:
2013 XV
Dark Gray Metallic

Default

Awesome man Great job! I wish I had done it this way as there's far less make up work this way. I have to move a few brackets on mine for misc stuff like gas pedal stop and ecu mount I better get cracking your making great progress!
Devilteg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 03:45 AM   #35
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilteg View Post
Awesome man Great job! I wish I had done it this way as there's far less make up work this way. I have to move a few brackets on mine for misc stuff like gas pedal stop and ecu mount I better get cracking your making great progress!
So does that mean you didn't sell the Type-R? Are you still in the club or what?
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2013, 07:29 PM   #36
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

***EDIT*** 8-1-13
Now that I have everything besides the engine out of the '95, I guess its time to source a picker. My neighbor has one, but his schedule hasn't line up with mine lately, so.... I might just have to break down and buy one when I go buy a stand.

Last edited by WelDun1; 08-01-2013 at 02:22 PM.
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 10:58 PM   #37
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

I am currently looking to buy a Ver5 STi RA clip. Not a limited model (Unless its number 998/1000, 999/1000 or 1000/1000 which I doubt because they are probably the rarest STi made) I am looking for a regular White Ver5 STi RA with the ej207dw1pj engine. If anyone has any info on the matter PLEASE contact me! Thanx guys

Its funny to me that all the Sonic Blue Mica RA Limited's are the "Limited" model, because they are everywhere I look, but its almost impossible to even find just a picture of the Regular Ver5/6 STi RA, let alone find one for sale.

Last edited by WelDun1; 08-14-2013 at 07:14 PM.
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2013, 06:18 PM   #38
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Radiator Selection time boys...
So I guess the Big question is......

Mishimoto
or
Koyo VH

The Mishimoto is about $270-$290, & the Koyo is about $370-$390
These 2 in particular are for a 01+ WRX/STi. The Mishimoto GC8 radiator is for the 2.2l. So will these fit? A lot of ppl say that the Koyo is better, but is it $100 better? I like the Koyo look better, but I'm leaning towards the Mishimoto, not because of price, but because I like the matching Fan Shroud
What do you guys think?

Last edited by WelDun1; 08-14-2013 at 06:29 PM.
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2013, 04:38 PM   #39
IA Performance
NASIOC Vendor
 
Member#: 25194
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Boulder, CO
Vehicle:
2008 Forester XT 5mt
Dark Gray

Default

Nice project! I tried mounting the mishimoto 98 in my 2001 RS swap and found out there is zero room to change belts. In fact, I think the belts interfered with the radiator fans. I ended up putting a new Subaru stock radiator in there. Long story short, do more research before buying an aftermarket aluminum rad.

www.facebook.com/iaperformance
IA Performance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2013, 07:19 PM   #40
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
Nice project! I tried mounting the mishimoto 98 in my 2001 RS swap and found out there is zero room to change belts. In fact, I think the belts interfered with the radiator fans. I ended up putting a new Subaru stock radiator in there. Long story short, do more research before buying an aftermarket aluminum rad.

www.facebook.com/iaperformance
You know what, I'm hearing a lot of that. I have no doubt that my current OEM radiator is good, because the car only has 37k on it, but my big question is, will the stock OEM rad do the job with the build that I'm doing? I plan on fully built block/heads, bigger turbo etc etc... And I'm worried about high temps. I realize that if I just want to keep my temps down, I can simply upgrade the T-stat, but if that's the case, why would anyone buy an aftermarket Rad if they aren't as good as the OEM?
Oh, and about the clearance issue, I'm getting rid of my AC/Condenser etc.. so that i have extra room for my FMIC. I don't think that I'll have problems with the pulley's/belts hitting the fans. Most likely I'll run the Mishimoto X-line w/Shroud and Slim Fans. I'm not getting the GC8 rad either because its made for the 2.2l Impreza, and not the 2.0l STi.
Of course this is all assuming that I go aftermarket

Last edited by WelDun1; 08-15-2013 at 08:04 PM.
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2013, 09:21 AM   #41
IA Performance
NASIOC Vendor
 
Member#: 25194
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Boulder, CO
Vehicle:
2008 Forester XT 5mt
Dark Gray

Default

Just about the only radiator option I foresee working well would be a custom fabricated aluminum unit. This will cost a hefty sum and in the end it will most likely be similar in dimensional size to the stock radiator (close in thickness). I'm not sure if it would give better cooling capacity of not. The colder thermostat does not work for everyone since the car needs to achieve a minimum temperature to operate safely. Some of our 160F thermostat customers experience poor gas mileage in the winter. Mostly cold climate customers.

Suggestion:
Keep stock radiator and play with thermostats
Install thermostatic external oil cooler

That is about the best you will be able to do with the size of the core support area, unless you are willing to go the custom radiator route.

www.facebook.com/iaperformance
IA Performance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2013, 09:55 AM   #42
Aczwild
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 71721
Join Date: Oct 2004
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Charlotte, NC
Vehicle:
'98 RS (Race Car)
'13 GMC Sierra (Tow Rig)

Default

Are you planning to keep the AC? If not you can go with pusher fans on the front of the radiator instead of the pullers that go on the back side of the radiator, which will be closer to the engine.
Aczwild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2013, 03:19 AM   #43
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aczwild View Post
Are you planning to keep the AC? If not you can go with pusher fans on the front of the radiator instead of the pullers that go on the back side of the radiator, which will be closer to the engine.
I've looked into that as well, but the only reason that I would be deleting the AC, is to allow more room for my FMIC.
I think I am either going w/ the Koyo VH & Mishimoto shroud setup, or OEM w/ the Mishimoto shroud. It only makes sense to Atleast upgrade the fans IMO. I don't want to cut corners, but at the same time, I'm trying to move my budget around for a few other parts I've recently come to realize I will be needing. I thought I had enough room with my budget, but its starting to look like I'll be coming up short.
I'm starting to get the feeling that its like that no matter what ur budget is, you always need more!
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2013, 12:04 AM   #44
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Well, I finally got the Firewall Sub-panel off! Now its time to get the one off the clip and swap it over, then its time for Paint&Body!

You can see where I put the torch to it. It started smoking almost instantly.





This was the spot that I was stuck on before when I was using the Heat Gun.


Once I put the torch to it, it was smooth sailing...with a butt load of smoke! That black crap melts very easy, and with the torch it took minimal effort to pry it up compared to using the heat gun.
So now that I have the experience from doing this one, the one on the clip should be even easier. Then I'll tac weld it on and drill out the new holes for the RHD equipment, and Viola...RHD!

Sent From My Nexus 7
Peep The Journal
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2013, 12:05 AM   #45
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Almost have the RSD(Rear Seat Delete) Template finished. I have a few minor tweaks to do before its ready to go onto the Sheet Metal. The hardest part was the section on the ends where the main bend is. Its right where the Bar is that the Seat sits on in the Sedans, and the bolt that held the seat belt in is right there. The Coupe has the brace bar that goes all the way across the bench, but the sedan's just have those 12" bars there for the seat to sit on, which helps out a lot because it gives my RSD sort of a frame to rest on & stay even. I think ima incorporate a flap right where that bolt is(bottom right of the pic above) & put it to use. For the rest of it, I plan on using Rivets. I think it's Guna turn out pretty Pimp! Still debating on covering it w/ Alcantara or not. I'm feeling some charcoal Alcantara w/ White Double Stitched Diamond Pleats. The Charcoal Alcantara will Match my Front Seats, AND my newly acquired RA door cards!
The white stitching is a must tho, otherwise there won't be any contrast and it'll be VERY GRAY! Lol.. The other route that i was thinking , was to leave it uncovered, and put some flared circles in the metal, and instead of pleated fabric, just pleat the metal itself. There is a guy who makes custom sheet metal seats for Hot Rods, the company name is Hand Made Seat Co., and this guy's work is So Amazing!
Other than that, I think I'll have my firewall finished this weekend, which means Paint/Body next week, which means engine Swap VERY Soon! I'm getting tons of anxiety picking out the parts for this build. I just wish I had all the parts in front of me, so that I can see what it is and be able to pick between this part & that part.. The only thing I'm set on 100% is the Link G4+ Extreme ECU, and 99% sure about the gtx3071r .63ar (1% gtx3076r .63ar). All the rest of the parts are 50/50. Oh yeah, speaking of 50/50, I'm Guna be running a Cooling Mist Stage1 Meth kit. Keepin it simple, no ecu integration or sh*it like that, just a pump,nozzle,hose, & a tank.
Man these builds really take all of ur energy don't they!?!

Sent From My Nexus 7
Peep The Journal

Last edited by WelDun1; 09-02-2013 at 04:03 PM.
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2013, 10:24 AM   #46
04trailsti
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 179170
Join Date: May 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Behind the wheel
Vehicle:
2005

Default

Great thread, you're going to love it when it fires up the first time. A few buddies and I completed our first swap and it happen to be a ver. IV into and L as well.
Good luck
04trailsti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2013, 03:55 PM   #47
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 04trailsti View Post
Great thread, you're going to love it when it fires up the first time. A few buddies and I completed our first swap and it happen to be a ver. IV into and L as well. Video Link: http://youtu.be/XJzAp71p62k
Good luck
Thanx bro, i cant wait, its getting pretty close to swapping the engine. It goes in for paint/body in a week .
I couldn't watch that Video cuz it says "Private Video"??? Whats the name of the Video?
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2013, 09:30 PM   #48
04trailsti
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 179170
Join Date: May 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Behind the wheel
Vehicle:
2005

Default

Fixed
04trailsti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2013, 10:16 PM   #49
WelDun1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 249130
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: North East Portland
Vehicle:
0095 Ver5 STi Type R
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 04trailsti View Post
Fixed
Hell yeah! That's what's up. Looks like a pretty clean swap to. Engine bay is nice and tidy. I did a ver4 into a OBS with a buddy a few years ago, but this Ver5 is all mine. I'm finishing up the RHD conversion right now, ie; Firewall and Window wipers... and hoping to have running by end of September. I hope I get a first crank start..the engine only has 37k on the clock, but its also getting rebuilt, so in theory, it should, but we all know Swap theory is taken with a grain of salt.
Thanx for sharing the vid bro! I'll be posting a lot more in the next few weeks.
WelDun1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2013, 12:22 AM   #50
CBRken
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 343049
Join Date: Jan 2013
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Ayase, Japan
Vehicle:
1998 Impreza WRX STi
Steel Blue

Default

Dude!!!!! Absolutely loving the build! I'm planning on doing the same thing. Right now I'm living in Japan, got a 98 v5 STi when I first got here and having been playing with it ever since. I've got another 2.5 years here and then I'm heading to Florida an doing my swap over there... Can't wait see your finished build, good luck.
CBRken is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:03 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.