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Old 07-16-2013, 08:44 PM   #1576
vicious_fishes
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found the answer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by sponaugle View Post
Jeff has a video camera now, and is recording some runs, which I will post up asap. Sorry for the delay, but I was out of town for a bit, then managed to get the flu. We swapped motor mounts yesterday on the H6 for some custom adapted ones we made (the regular H6 mounts suck, and the stock STI and Group N ones don't bolt up without an adapter).

JeffS
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:16 AM   #1577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
As I recall they used Group N mounts, but removed the EJ top plate (the part that bolts to the engine) and made EZ plates.
Sounds like a plan
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:30 AM   #1578
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I was just gonna run the D ones till I got around to using machining stuff or CAD and made some solid ones... See if I could manage clearances to get 1/4" lower with the motor. Twin scroll means I'll have two smaller diameter sections of exhast to run through the GDB xmembers notch.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:51 AM   #1579
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ok so my state transport authority says the only thing that will stop my swap getting registered will be the emissions. anyone have any information RE: emissions of these engines?

i mean i don't foresee any problems so long as there's a cat in the exhaust but better safe than sorry.
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:44 PM   #1580
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Plug in. If you don't pass ODB2 readieness nothing will be worth anything.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:26 PM   #1581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphinwolf View Post
Plug in. If you don't pass ODB2 readieness nothing will be worth anything.
Is that comment based on your vast experience with emissions testing in New Zealand?
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:40 PM   #1582
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No it's on my vast forgetting that not everyone is in the US. It's still a most likely case if there is any emissions testing I would presume.
It is a wonder if those other market ECU's that are opensourcable will let you force readiness like the US WRX and STi ECU's.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:16 AM   #1583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
Got the short block together at the machine shop today and brought it home and mounted it back on the engine stand. Still need to put the oil pan(s) on. Block-to-head pins will get to the dealer on Tuesday, after which I can do the heads. No real hurry, since I still have to do all the electrical stuff and I don't even have the harnesses yet.

Received the OBX header, plus a couple little baby Magnaflow spun cats and a new Y-merge.









I don't know if the cats will go in ahead of / upstream of the flexes, or if I'll just ditch the flexes and put the cats in their place. (AFAIK the stock manifolds don't have flexes like that, so I'm not sure what the need is. They're huge flexes, too - I'm used to ones about 1/3 or 1/4 as long.)
hey pat what made you go with a pair of little 2 inch cats (or whatever they are) rather than a single 2.5 inch at the collector?
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:24 AM   #1584
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Generally you want the cats closer to the head so they warm up and become effective more quickly.

With that said, the 2" ones are pretty tiny, so I may change my mind at some point. We'll see...
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Old 07-26-2013, 01:52 PM   #1585
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nothing to do with flow then, gotcha.

i just got a 2.5 for the midpipe so i was curious!
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:06 AM   #1586
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yesssss just got approval from the transport authority. my swap is going to be registered
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:07 PM   #1587
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and to make my third post in a row: anyone looked into forged internals for these engines?

there's a couple of brands that make production/off the shelf rods and pistons, BUT... i'd really like to run a custom job with them. like the MPS engines, i'd love to get a custom piston made with the wrist pin further up the body and longer rods to compensate.

i haven't contacted any manufacturers yet but i've taken a squiz at the piston..


i can't help but think that short of machining into the bottom ringland (which has already been done stock) there isn't much room to move. aftermarket manufacturers are already doing this as they increase the total thickness of the ringlands on their forged pistons.

supertech:


mahle:
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:26 PM   #1588
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I hydrolocked the EJ25D in my car last week, so it will sit until the EZ30D is in it. No point in fixing the EJ25 or finding another one to throw in there when I have a project that I've been meaning to do for so long!

I had to give the heads back to the machine shop for some clean up on the lifter bores - previous machine shop nicked the bores when they tore the heads down to clean up , so the lifters didn't want to slide in cleanly. Should have the heads back this week, and perhaps this weekend I can actually work on assembling the engine. I'll also be working on pulling the EJ25, once I get my other car out of the garage (currently taking it apart for some header test fitting).

I've exchanged emails with Franz Diebold @ Diebold Autosport about doing the Vipec V88 install. He's a few hours away in Winchester, VA, which is coincidentally where I picked up this EZ30D back in December. He's awaiting word from me once I get closer to actually bringing him the car.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:06 PM   #1589
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I came here to say I want a 3L H6 that makes 100hp/L naturally aspirated and want you guys to figure it out, then swap it in my vehicle. Thanks. God bless.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:17 PM   #1590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
I came here to say I want a 3L H6 that makes 100hp/L naturally aspirated and want you guys to figure it out, then swap it in my vehicle. Thanks. God bless.
stock engine with an exhaust & tune on decent fuel will do that...
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:20 PM   #1591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
stock engine with an exhaust & tune on decent fuel will do that...
Which engine code, how available, how reliable, and is it aluminum?
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:49 AM   #1592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Which engine code, how available, how reliable, and is it aluminum?
how much do you want to spend?

EZ30R is probably the most accessible/easiest to swap over. EZ36 is the engine i'd swap if i could/was going to stay NA, but it'll cost you $thousands more.

reliability with an exhaust & tune? same as factory. in fact possibly greater.

all alloy engine, about 35kg heavier than an ej25.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:14 AM   #1593
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EZ30D is easiest in my book, with a close second to the EG33 the cheapest. If you are putting in the work the EZ36R should be only slightly harder than the EZ30R.
100hp/L NA? I'd do an EG33. Stock they are way under powered compared to what can be extracted.

Vicious, why do you want to shift the geometry of the pistons and rods?
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:37 AM   #1594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphinwolf View Post
EZ30D is easiest in my book, with a close second to the EG33 the cheapest. If you are putting in the work the EZ36R should be only slightly harder than the EZ30R.
100hp/L NA? I'd do an EG33. Stock they are way under powered compared to what can be extracted.

Vicious, why do you want to shift the geometry of the pistons and rods?
all other things equal, the longer a rod is the better.

and i want to rev the snot out of it
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:10 AM   #1595
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You want to rev the piss out if it? Valve train, porting, and oiling.
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:04 PM   #1596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
how much do you want to spend?

EZ30R is probably the most accessible/easiest to swap over. EZ36 is the engine i'd swap if i could/was going to stay NA, but it'll cost you $thousands more.

reliability with an exhaust & tune? same as factory. in fact possibly greater.

all alloy engine, about 35kg heavier than an ej25.
Uh. Boost vs engine swap is the question...so less than $7K? Pipe dream really.

Now I'm seeming to remember an earlier conversation about the Subaru engines other than the FA not mating to the bell-housing of my Aisin trans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphinwolf View Post
EZ30D is easiest in my book, with a close second to the EG33 the cheapest. If you are putting in the work the EZ36R should be only slightly harder than the EZ30R.
100hp/L NA? I'd do an EG33. Stock they are way under powered compared to what can be extracted.
I'll have to read more, but EZ36R is the Legacy 3.6R and Tribeca powerplant right?

"Output: 256 hp @ 6,000 rpm, 247 lb-ft @ 4,400 rpm" Must rev higher and needs 100 more hp...these stock numbers are about the wheel output of a very well tuned up twin-screw supercharger with supporting modifications.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:08 PM   #1597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphinwolf View Post
You want to rev the piss out if it? Valve train, porting, and oiling.
no kidding. i didn't say longer rods are the ONLY thing you need to do

but my older EZ30D without the oil draining AVCS is much more racetrack/rpm friendly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Uh. Boost vs engine swap is the question...so less than $7K? Pipe dream really.

Now I'm seeming to remember an earlier conversation about the Subaru engines other than the FA not mating to the bell-housing of my Aisin trans.

I'll have to read more, but EZ36R is the Legacy 3.6R and Tribeca powerplant right?

"Output: 256 hp @ 6,000 rpm, 247 lb-ft @ 4,400 rpm" Must rev higher and needs 100 more hp...these stock numbers are about the wheel output of a very well tuned up twin-screw supercharger with supporting modifications.
ah. well you never told us that. in that case i'd just supercharge an ej25 assuming you're trying to find something with more lowdown torque. loads of guys on rs25 have done it. tell us what you're trying to achieve and we can help you much better.

yes that's the ez36. getting one and getting it swapped on the other hand is fairly difficult.

Last edited by vicious_fishes; 08-01-2013 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:23 AM   #1598
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some of my production for the afternoon:


parallel fuel rails!


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Old 08-03-2013, 01:25 AM   #1599
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and after testing belt tension on this vs what it is on my ej, decided to give the belt some more wrap:

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Old 08-04-2013, 09:13 AM   #1600
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I'm thinking about swapping an 02 EZ30D into an 02 OBS. If I get a donor car, do I just need to swap the bulkhead to ecu wiring?
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