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Old 06-26-2013, 08:45 AM   #26
AlexBmur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rememo View Post
In this photo I have already removed the plastic that is attached to the door. I find it amazing that these doors can do so well in crash tests, since they are SO thin. (sorry about the blur)

How important or easy is it to put the plastic that's attached to the door back in place? Also what purpose does it serve?
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:54 AM   #27
Rememo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexBmur View Post
How important or easy is it to put the plastic that's attached to the door back in place? Also what purpose does it serve?
If you're just replacing the speaker, you don't need to remove the plastic.
If you're adding sound deadening, you won't reuse the plastic anyway, or at least I didn't.

The plastic is attached to the door with a bead of Butyl (you can see some of it left on the door in the photo). You have to tear part of the plastic to remove it completely, but if you were VERY careful, you could remove it fairly intact and reuse it. There is a very thin piece of foam attached to the plastic that is supposed to act as a noise barrier. The plastic itself is probably just a moisture barrier to protect the door panel.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:00 AM   #28
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rememo View Post
If you're just replacing the speaker, you don't need to remove the plastic.
If you're adding sound deadening, you won't reuse the plastic anyway, or at least I didn't.

The plastic is attached to the door with a bead of Butyl (you can see some of it left on the door in the photo). You have to tear part of the plastic to remove it completely, but if you were VERY careful, you could remove it fairly intact and reuse it. There is a very thin piece of foam attached to the plastic that is supposed to act as a noise barrier. The plastic itself is probably just a moisture barrier to protect the door panel.
Correct on all points.
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:20 PM   #29
AlexBmur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rememo View Post
If you're just replacing the speaker, you don't need to remove the plastic.
If you're adding sound deadening, you won't reuse the plastic anyway, or at least I didn't.

The plastic is attached to the door with a bead of Butyl (you can see some of it left on the door in the photo). You have to tear part of the plastic to remove it completely, but if you were VERY careful, you could remove it fairly intact and reuse it. There is a very thin piece of foam attached to the plastic that is supposed to act as a noise barrier. The plastic itself is probably just a moisture barrier to protect the door panel.
Awesome, thanks.

And just curious, if I am very careful about slowly peeling back the plastic since I just need access in one corner, will the existing Butyl work so I can just re-affix the plastic when I put it all back together or is it a one use thing and once you peel it away I will need some new Butyl tap to reaffix the plastic?
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:29 PM   #30
whatzone
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Originally Posted by AlexBmur View Post

How important or easy is it to put the plastic that's attached to the door back in place? Also what purpose does it serve?
So i see that there is no reason to get a bracket if we all upgrade the speaker then just a regular 6.5 will do i guess
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:40 PM   #31
whatzone
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Originally Posted by Rememo View Post
I finished the sound deadening of the front doors today, so I snapped some photos along the way.

First pop up the small cover in the door latch that hides the Philips head screw, and remove the screw.

Now pop up the small cover hiding the Philips head screw in the door handle, and remove the screw.

Starting at the hinge side of the door, slip your fingers inside the door panel and give it a sharp pull towards you.
You may need to slide something behind the panel to pry it up a bit. Don't scratch the paint!
You'll hear a distinct "POP" when the panel releases in that spot.

Work your way around the door counter-clockwise until the entire panel is loose. Once the panel is loose, lift it up to release it from the window area.

Here you can see that there are seven attachment points. (The white clip grommets)

Once you have lifted the panel free of the door, it will still have wires and the door latch connected to it.

To disconnect the wires, press on the release with a screwdriver and pry the plug out. Hint: Lay something soft on the ground so you don't scratch the panel while you're maneuvering it.

The drivers side has three wire connections. The passenger side has two.

Once the wires have been removed, you need to detach the door latch mechanism. Remove the two screws and the black plastic retainer. The latch will pop up and out, and the door panel will be free of the door.

You will probably see that some of the clip grommets have stayed in the door. While you can remove them using your fingers, it's much easier with the proper tool. Remove any stragglers and put them back on the door panel. Watch out for the black washers that are part of the grommet. Subaru uses two different grommet part numbers in the door, one has a washer, the other does not.

In this photo I have already removed the plastic that is attached to the door. I find it amazing that these doors can do so well in crash tests, since they are SO thin. (sorry about the blur)
Did the polk speaker fit perfectly and did you use any bracket to hold the new apeaker coz ima bout to fix my too and changing my unit im thinking pioneer or kenwood dvd player let me know
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:38 PM   #32
Rememo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexBmur View Post
Awesome, thanks.

And just curious, if I am very careful about slowly peeling back the plastic since I just need access in one corner, will the existing Butyl work so I can just re-affix the plastic when I put it all back together or is it a one use thing and once you peel it away I will need some new Butyl tap to reaffix the plastic?
The Butyl is ridiculously sticky. You won't have any problem sticking the plastic back into place, assuming you can prevent the piece you peel back from sticking to itself. I noticed that if I peeled slowly, the Butyl stayed on the door. If I peeled very quickly, the Butyl usually stayed on the plastic.
Either way you can reuse it.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:38 PM   #33
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexBmur View Post
Awesome, thanks.

And just curious, if I am very careful about slowly peeling back the plastic since I just need access in one corner, will the existing Butyl work so I can just re-affix the plastic when I put it all back together or is it a one use thing and once you peel it away I will need some new Butyl tap to reaffix the plastic?
The adhesive is reusable.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:39 PM   #34
Rememo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whatzone View Post
Did the polk speaker fit perfectly and did you use any bracket to hold the new apeaker coz ima bout to fix my too and changing my unit im thinking pioneer or kenwood dvd player let me know
The Polk speakers are not a direct fit to the factory mounting points. You will need a spacer, or you you'll have to drill new holes. I drilled new holes.

Last edited by Rememo; 06-27-2013 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:40 PM   #35
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whatzone View Post
Did the polk speaker fit perfectly and did you use any bracket to hold the new apeaker coz ima bout to fix my too and changing my unit im thinking pioneer or kenwood dvd player let me know
You still need an adapter bracket/spacer unless you totally hack up the stock speaker or modify the Polk adapters.

www.subaruaudio.net for info.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:35 PM   #36
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rememo View Post

If you're just replacing the speaker, you don't need to remove the plastic.
If you're adding sound deadening, you won't reuse the plastic anyway, or at least I didn't.

The plastic is attached to the door with a bead of Butyl (you can see some of it left on the door in the photo). You have to tear part of the plastic to remove it completely, but if you were VERY careful, you could remove it fairly intact and reuse it. There is a very thin piece of foam attached to the plastic that is supposed to act as a noise barrier. The plastic itself is probably just a moisture barrier to protect the door panel.
That foam piece was ripped on 2/4 doors when I removed the panels. It is a pretty big joke.

Mat+mlv= win. I love the solid thud I get when tapping on my doors from the outside
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Old 07-23-2013, 09:39 PM   #37
hlachance
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When i drive under the rain some water enters close to under the speaker. Does anyone had that problem. I went to the dealer today and they could not find the cause. I saw similar issues on a honda fit and BMW. It was coming from inside the door. Any clues about this problem so that i can tell the dealer would be appreciated.

Did you get issues with water leak after removing the plastic?
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:58 PM   #38
Rememo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hlachance View Post
When i drive under the rain some water enters close to under the speaker. Does anyone had that problem. I went to the dealer today and they could not find the cause. I saw similar issues on a honda fit and BMW. It was coming from inside the door. Any clues about this problem so that i can tell the dealer would be appreciated.

Did you get issues with water leak after removing the plastic?
Water will enter the door (mainly through the outer window seal), there isn't much you can do about that. There are holes in the bottom of the door to allow the water to run out.

When I disassembled my doors, the stock speakers had a few drops of water on them from a recent thunderstorm.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:20 PM   #39
G2Spfld
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hlachance View Post
When i drive under the rain some water enters close to under the speaker. Does anyone had that problem. I went to the dealer today and they could not find the cause. I saw similar issues on a honda fit and BMW. It was coming from inside the door. Any clues about this problem so that i can tell the dealer would be appreciated.

Did you get issues with water leak after removing the plastic?
Mine doesn't leak in the car, but it does after I open my doors both front doors will drain on drive. The rears don't seem to but fronts will. So after each heavy rain I "drain my doors" lol. I've never had my door panels off, and prob won't. I'll Prob take it to dealer and pay them to swap my speakers so they are liable if things go south after
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:14 AM   #40
79letour
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I want to upgrade my stock speakers, but my car is still so rattle-free that I'm hesitant to disturb the balance...
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:56 AM   #41
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79letour View Post
I want to upgrade my stock speakers, but my car is still so rattle-free that I'm hesitant to disturb the balance...
My doors don't rattle....
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:58 AM   #42
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79letour View Post
I want to upgrade my stock speakers, but my car is still so rattle-free that I'm hesitant to disturb the balance...
Opening up the doors is not likely to induce rattles. The dash, on the other hand, may be a problem area.
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:10 AM   #43
79letour
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My 2012 had really squeaky door panels. If I put my hand against the top corners they would stop.
So far the dash is 100% rattle free- so is the rest of the car.
After driving almost 30,000 miles in that ism rattletrap, I'm just real hesitant to pop any panels off.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:33 AM   #44
Angelus911
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I just finished my Polk db6501 install with my AppRadio 3 and Alpine amp, and I have to say, the difference in sound quality is amazing! So happy that I did this upgrade even though it took me a little while to complete everything.
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