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Old 06-05-2013, 01:44 PM   #551
Ziggyrama
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How long have you had that AFR gauge up there? From my experience, that location is VERY distracting. The number moves all the time so your eyes are constantly drawn to it. Maybe you can get used to it. I ended up relocating mine down near the shifter. I can still peek at it when I need to and it's not being a distraction while driving.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fiatlux View Post
My a-pillar gauge finally arrived, so I was able to move the two gauges I had sticky-taped to the top of the gauge hood and throw in an AFR gauge too.



Unfortunately, the a-pillar gauges tend to block out the 10 o'clock view a little. If you're only getting two gauges, I'd definitely stick with the SMY setup rather than the a-pillars, but if you've got more than not, not much else you can do.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:06 PM   #552
fiatlux
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggyrama View Post
How long have you had that AFR gauge up there? From my experience, that location is VERY distracting. The number moves all the time so your eyes are constantly drawn to it. Maybe you can get used to it. I ended up relocating mine down near the shifter. I can still peek at it when I need to and it's not being a distraction while driving.
I've had it up there for a couple days. I haven't really noticed it as a distraction because it's not really in my peripheral vision. If anything the AP I have mounted on my center vents is more of a distraction as I check it constantly for massive knock corrections.
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:09 PM   #553
stierzy34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSchell1309 View Post
I wouldn't trust that number. I bought mine several months ago when there was only 3 "available". I don't see them running out any time soon.

For you guys on the fence, I love mine. Really cleans up the interior and is a great middle step from the junk that came stock and an expensive aftermarket unit.
True. Don't think I would put too much merit in the number. I was originally just upgrading so I could get he nicer screen. The sound really blew me away though. It seriously sounds like a completely different system. Weird.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:45 AM   #554
Pakal967
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Just wanted to say thanks O.C.D. - finally got around to putting in the SMY and a couple Defi gauges myself for my WRX and this post was a really big help. Would not have though of going through the fender well without it, and the whole set up looks very clean with your help

I have one of GrimmSpeed's master cylinder braces installed, and ended up making a bracket off of that to mount the boost unit. Very happy with the SMY, really nice quality and fit, and like the Defi too.

Don't think I could've done nearly as nice of a job without seeing your post here.

Thanks!
- Steve
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:34 PM   #555
Corey0106
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sorry if its already in this but i was wondering how many watts these gauges require thanks
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:50 PM   #556
nonamekevin
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can someone snap a pic of their fuse panel?

My numbers aren't matching up with what everyone is saying as far as fuse position. Also, the fuse for door locks right now is a 15A fuse. I'm assuming that placing a 10A fuse in the fuse tap will just have me going through fuses more frequently for the door locks?

2009 wrx.

Thanks all.
-Kevin

Last edited by nonamekevin; 07-08-2013 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:40 AM   #557
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Need a quick help guys. Gotta get this done tomorrow.

Thanks
-Kevin
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:22 AM   #558
xxst1tch3sxx
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LOVE IT
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:58 AM   #559
Tripintaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonamekevin View Post
can someone snap a pic of their fuse panel?

My numbers aren't matching up with what everyone is saying as far as fuse position. Also, the fuse for door locks right now is a 15A fuse. I'm assuming that placing a 10A fuse in the fuse tap will just have me going through fuses more frequently for the door locks?

2009 wrx.

Thanks all.
-Kevin

Mine didn't match up either. I just moved it to where the label was that matched the descriptions in the How To. I tested mine with a multimeter first to make sure. Works fine.
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:15 PM   #560
nonamekevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripintaz View Post
Mine didn't match up either. I just moved it to where the label was that matched the descriptions in the How To. I tested mine with a multimeter first to make sure. Works fine.
Okay thanks. And to follow up on that, the second part to my question. I believe the door locks fuse is 15A. When adding the fuse tap, which says is rated for no more 10A, did you reuse the 15A fuse in the new fuse tap or use a 10A?

Thanks bud!
-Kevin
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:22 PM   #561
Tripintaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonamekevin View Post
Okay thanks. And to follow up on that, the second part to my question. I believe the door locks fuse is 15A. When adding the fuse tap, which says is rated for no more 10A, did you reuse the 15A fuse in the new fuse tap or use a 10A?

Thanks bud!
-Kevin

I knew the rating of the fuses were 15amps so i bought my taps rated for 20amps so I re-used the 15amp fuse. I assume those taps are rated to an amperage based on the wire size. It would be safer to use a 10amp fuse but it might blow if the load of the gauges plus the doorlocks exceeds 10amps. On the other hand, you run a small risk melting the wires on the tap and starting a fire if you use the 15amp fuse and the circuit exceeds the 10amp rating of the tap.

I would recommend getting new taps rated at 15amps or higher.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:49 PM   #562
nonamekevin
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Unfortunately, I bought all my taps locally and don't have time for to wait for 20A fuse taps from eBay.

Would a Home Depot or place like that have the higher amp fuse taps?
Thanks for the replies
-Kevin
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:10 PM   #563
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i know everyone recommends installing the sensor to the gallery plug under the alternator..

i bought the Defi gauge and the manual specifically recommends AGAINST installing the sensor there.. hmmm.. so i guess most people just ignore this?

i'm about to tackle this and i even bought a sandwich just in case (planning to run an oil cooler later)..

sorry if this has been beaten to death.. i just want to make sure i choose the best location for this sensor..
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Old 07-26-2013, 01:20 AM   #564
VEGAS WRX
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Nice write up. Bookmarking for reference.
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:48 AM   #565
Iownit4
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great write up for sure ..love gauges lol click on pics








Last edited by Iownit4; 07-26-2013 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:50 PM   #566
fastman
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by KIMUTAKU View Post
i know everyone recommends installing the sensor to the gallery plug under the alternator..

i bought the Defi gauge and the manual specifically recommends AGAINST installing the sensor there.. hmmm.. so i guess most people just ignore this?

i'm about to tackle this and i even bought a sandwich just in case (planning to run an oil cooler later)..

sorry if this has been beaten to death.. i just want to make sure i choose the best location for this sensor..
I'm about to do this Mod too. I wonder why it recommends not to install under the Alt. Where does it recommend the sensor go? Does anyone know why they recommend why not under the Atl?
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:48 PM   #567
Ziggyrama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastman View Post
I'm about to do this Mod too. I wonder why it recommends not to install under the Alt. Where does it recommend the sensor go? Does anyone know why they recommend why not under the Atl?
Probably because you have to remove the stock pressure sensor to install the new one. In an event where you have a meltdown, it's easy to point a finger at the gauge supplier since he said its ok to remove it. It's an open door for liability and ownership of all oil pressure problems because a safety device was removed, as per supplier's recommendation. So, easy fix, don't recommend it. We all know that the stock sensor is useless but that is not the point here.
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:05 PM   #568
KIMUTAKU
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i ended up going with the oil sandwich route.. i know people say it increases the chance of a leak but i figure it's the best way down the road when i get the oil cooler..

Defi manual says to use a sandwich adapter..

i guess i do like keeping the stock sensor for double safety measure.. yes yes i know it's just a switch that comes on when there is almost no pressure.. by then i would be f-ed already.. but it might still come to resue when the digital gauge fails..
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:23 PM   #569
Sp2Pilot
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One question
Red = #3, white = #16, orange = #26
1. With the gauges hooked up the same way. With no key in the ignition, when you turn on your parking lights, or even headlights......does your instrument cluster(or the gauges) light up?
^^^^
I can't remember if my car ever did this before or not, and I have not driven it in weeks, so I can't remember if this is normal.
My instrument cluster only comes on when the key is in and on the "on" position" (where all the warning lights come on). The Defi's dim when I turn on the headlights.
2011 sti.

Last edited by Sp2Pilot; 08-13-2013 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:06 PM   #570
SpoolinJon
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WRB

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Sweet write up. My pod should be here tomorrow!
My gauges are already wired i just gotta snap the pod in and im rdy to go. Wife thinks im rediculous riding around for a week with the stock cluster cover removed lol...
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:10 AM   #571
Wrbboost
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this helped me thanks!
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:58 PM   #572
awenthol
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Anybody use/see the ATI cluster?

Installed the SMY a couple weeks ago but am very disappointed that the gauges point AWAY from me....looks like everyone else in this thread has the same issue.
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:42 AM   #573
Shadow Rex
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Black

Default Defi Boost Install on 2013 WRX

Thank you OCD for the great write up! Excellent, yes! Thanks as well to all contributors. Made the install very easy.

I wanted to write my experience, as I had been looking through 23 pages in this thread. Plus, I hadn't seen a '13 wrx owner contribute updates.

I did only the Defi Boost Gauge (FYI).


FUSE TAPS:
1) Fuse placement: Original fuse closest to prong (including 15amp for Doorlocks), 3 amp fuse closest to wire.

2) 2013 WRX: Wire/Tap Name/#
- Red/DoorLocks/#3
- Orange/IG2/#4 (insert tap upside down)
- White/Illum (aka illumination)/#16

3) Ground Wire:
- removed bulging side panel to fuse/wire area, where the driver's door shuts.
- Bolted ground eyelet to the top-right Screw holding the dash mount to a metal stabilizer bracket.
- Fed the eyelet between the bracket and dash mount.


TAPPING VACUUM LINE:
- Make sure to cut it evenly. I used scissors and found it difficult, but lucked out. Although it wasn't perfectly flat, it worked with the angle the T fit into.
- Since T fitment wasn't snug enough, I went "OCD" on the zip ties... 4 on bottom of T, 3 on top. Function over Facial!
- I used OCD's method of bolting on the bracket, including two nuts between the clamp and the sensor, like OCD (eagle eye vision).


PULL FENDER LINER WITH TIRE ON
1) Open driver's door
2) Tug on silver wrx side emblem with both hands (both sides simultaneously) to pop side panel back.
3) This will reveal one philips screw clip (remove)
4) There are three round push clips around the middle of the liner. Use your flat head screw driver and patiently work them out.
5) There are 3 philips clips on the front side of the tire well (remove)
6) I also removed the 2 clips under the front bumper holding on the fender liner and the bolt near the tow pulley.
- Now it dropped toward the front, popped out easy and bent out of the way.


FEEDING SENSOR WIRE
- Passed the wire behind the fuse box and zip tied it to the ground wire located there for stability.
- There were a few slots under the Fender panel that fed into the space under the liner. I passed the wire through, but also cut a piece of tubing to act as padding (see photo).
- Used existing wire harnesses to feed the wire through.
- Connected the wire for the gauge (to the sensor wire) and zip tied it to other wires along the track.
- Used scissors to puncture the rubber grommet, from inside the car, to out.
- Went around to see the scissors poking through from fender area and fed wire with gauge plug through, as I pushed the scissors back in.


CLUSTER BEZEL & MOUNTING
- Pull Bezel off/out from bottom, to top.
- Do not lose the green/yellow clips! Be careful too, they fall in and become lost! (one on top did, but it's fine)
- Cut (2 CM wide .5 CM thick) strip of the seal on the bezel for wires. (not on the outside/visible portion)
- Defi's tape and mount are good, and moldable to the contour.
- Make sure the gauge housing sits at least 90 degrees flat as you tighten.



I'm very pleased with the final product and now drive with a full erection!


Fuses in the Fuse Taps:



Fuse Tap Location (2013 WRX):



OCD "T" Fitment



Headlights Off:



Headlights On:




I'm new to WRX and have accomplished a lot from researching these forums (Unabomber and many other great contributors). I've done many mods already, but mostly quality aesthetic mods. I did go Stage 1 with Cobb A/P and noticed a big difference in drivability & overall power.

I got the itch, am loving the hobby, and man, this car is freakin sweet!

Peace,
Jake

Last edited by Shadow Rex; 08-26-2013 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:51 PM   #574
Bill_S
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Default Great discription

Hi:

I am going to install a red racer turbo gauge in my spec B. I like your wiring using the fuse links. I assume the red wires go to door lock, the orange to IG2 and the white to dimmer.

Does the lighting work well with this set up for day light and when lights are on. Does it work with the dimmer switch?

Thanks for a great post.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:59 PM   #575
willowlee
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wrb

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Nice write up. I will have to reference it once I install my parts.
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