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Old 07-17-2013, 07:05 PM   #26
Garbels90
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Member#: 322129
Join Date: Jun 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Canada, ON
Vehicle:
2007 Impreza SE
Newport Blue

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Mine is manual not auto
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:32 PM   #27
Jb2.5rstst
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Bayonne, NJ
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2005 subaru 2.5 rs
silver

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The only cel I have is the p0420....someone said that my low idle could be from bad ground.....I will try to see if any of the connections need cleaning and maybe even add some more connections and see if that changes anything
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:33 PM   #28
Jb2.5rstst
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2005 subaru 2.5 rs
silver

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It also only happens after the car has been warmed up....but if you start it an drive it right away it will idle perfectly
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:15 PM   #29
Calidinho10
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1993 Impreza
Crimson Pearl

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I have an idea. I remember from school a couple of my instructors saying that most often over-looked sensor is the coolant temp sensor. Its very cheap and usually easy to change. I bought a new one from the dealership I work at and put it in in about 30 minutes. It was a little difficult to get to and I had to take a few things off (mostly wires that were in the way). The sensor was only $15 if I remember correctly. It's also important to point out that just because your car's engine temp gauge in the car acts normally does not mean the coolant temp sensor is good. Most cars now-a-days have a separate sensor for the gauge. Also consider taking your car to a subaru dealer and having them scan it with their computers, sometimes things are faulty but do not trigger the check engine light.

That being said, it sound's like your idle is fine. Mine idles at around 500-600 RPM after it is warmed up.
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:13 PM   #30
Jb2.5rstst
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silver

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The idle drops as low as almost zero....or the line before it....it has it's moments...it's not constant....sometimes it's fine and sometimes it's just low...also when the idle drops the car also shakes ...an as the idle goes back up the shaking stops

I was thinking about taking to subaru ...will they charge anything for scanning it?

And I will look into the temp sensor...but will that affect the low idle ?
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:58 AM   #31
Obsidian2007sube
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2013 Wrx Hatch
Ice Silver

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If your subie is an auto,I have a 2.5i auto impreza, I have the procedure I followed written down but in my tool box at work. My dtc (p0506)- rpms low blah blah... stalling but not dying out at complete stops. Its idling perfect now.

PS ... Subaru will charge you DIAGNOSTICS FEES, I own a scanner, alittle pricey but yet saves you from going to the dealer if its something you can handle if you're mechanically inclined or willing to learn.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:43 PM   #32
Jb2.5rstst
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian2007sube View Post
If your subie is an auto,I have a 2.5i auto impreza, I have the procedure I followed written down but in my tool box at work. My dtc (p0506)- rpms low blah blah... stalling but not dying out at complete stops. Its idling perfect now. PS ... Subaru will charge you DIAGNOSTICS FEES, I own a scanner, alittle pricey but yet saves you from going to the dealer if its something you can handle if you're mechanically inclined or willing to learn.

If you can send me that write up it will be great....I tried cleaning my grounds today and didn't help....I shouldn't have to add any to improve the grounding....so any suggestions at this moment I'm open too....I even checked for vacuum leaks and nothing....
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:27 PM   #33
Teamjello
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check valves, they may be too tight. happened to me after i got my valves adjusted they were too tight and the car would stall once approaching low speeds.
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Old 08-02-2013, 03:55 AM   #34
Obsidian2007sube
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I assume the car running but still not well.
I'll list it in steps.

Dont modify steps in anyway - I was told the samething. I have a friend who works for Audi. I used my iphone as a stopwatch to specified times needed in tests.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable
2. Turn key in ignition to on position (do not crank engine over) for 10 secs.
3. Press and hold brake pedal for 15 secs.
4. Turn key to off positon in ignition and wait for 10 secs.
5. Reconnect your negative battery cable.
6. Make sure all accessories are in off position before starting car. a/c or heat, radio, etc.
Let car run for 10 mins. DO NOT TOUCH GAS OR BRAKE PEDAL.
7. Drive car around for 5 - 10 mins to also help warm engine up to operating temps.
Preferably on the highway roads, you must achieve (WOT) wipe open throttle
several times at rpms 2000- 4000.

This is what I did to my car after disconnecting my power cable from my battery.
I had removed my stereo wiring (amp cable) from the engine bay.
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:45 PM   #35
Jb2.5rstst
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silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teamjello View Post
check valves, they may be too tight. happened to me after i got my valves adjusted they were too tight and the car would stall once approaching low speeds.
I never touched the valves...I just my timing belt and headgasket...I was starting to think if my timing is off but I wasn't sure because it's not consistent....I will find out for sure soon because I have to change the timing belt tensioner.
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:46 PM   #36
Jb2.5rstst
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2005 subaru 2.5 rs
silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian2007sube View Post
I assume the car running but still not well. I'll list it in steps. Dont modify steps in anyway - I was told the samething. I have a friend who works for Audi. I used my iphone as a stopwatch to specified times needed in tests. 1. Disconnect negative battery cable 2. Turn key in ignition to on position (do not crank engine over) for 10 secs. 3. Press and hold brake pedal for 15 secs. 4. Turn key to off positon in ignition and wait for 10 secs. 5. Reconnect your negative battery cable. 6. Make sure all accessories are in off position before starting car. a/c or heat, radio, etc. Let car run for 10 mins. DO NOT TOUCH GAS OR BRAKE PEDAL. 7. Drive car around for 5 - 10 mins to also help warm engine up to operating temps. Preferably on the highway roads, you must achieve (WOT) wipe open throttle several times at rpms 2000- 4000. This is what I did to my car after disconnecting my power cable from my battery. I had removed my stereo wiring (amp cable) from the engine bay.
Ok cool. I've actually tried a similar method to this to resetting the ecu but I never actually timed it precisely....I will do this tomorrow prob....
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:08 AM   #37
john82johnson
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2008 Legacy 2.5i
Gray

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I have this same issue on my 08 legacy
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