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Old 08-11-2013, 02:44 PM   #3076
BooYah11
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Is functional ducting legal?? My AEM CAI filter element is directly behind the passenger fog light. I'll get nice airflow from just having an ugly hole where the removed light is but I would prefer something that looks nicer. Thanks.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:24 PM   #3077
Splash
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The rules state that you can remove the fog lights and that you can use any intake up to the compressor inlet (or throttle body if you don't have a turbo/supercharger). As long as you don't modify the hole in the OEM cover (or OEM holes in anything else), I can't see where this could even be misconstrued as illegal.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:24 PM   #3078
dylanhauge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdi View Post
Headers require careful monitoring. I def dont suggest not wrapping them. They get to close to things that will melt or distort. Use the new wraps that dont burn and keep an eye out for oil leaks.
And if a line with flammable fluid leaks the wrap turns into a sponge and then a fire.

----


Setup assistance request. Any/all advisement would be much appreciated.

Current Setup:

05 STi
1. Stock - JR Tuned @ P&L Motorsports (Currently ASP/Street Tune)
2. P&L Motorsports Street Series TBE (soon to be catted)
3. Stock (Soon to be used KWv3s) / WL Camber Bolts / WL 24mm F on Soft and WL 22mm R on Medium
4. -2.f F, -2 R
5. 225x45x17 Star Specs
6. Hawk HPS/DBA 4000 swipe slot with P&L SS lines & ATE Super Blue



Cat and Re-Tune for STU are coming soon, but in my local club I run ASP because some of the cars that run in STU seem like they shouldn't be.

The V3s on are the OTS springs, and I was wondering if anyone is aware of the rates. My search yielded vague results leading me to believe 500/450, but I would like some confirmation. If they are on the stock springs, what should I set my bars to start off? AFAIK soft springs stiff bars, but again, would love some confirmation. I'm pretty sure I should also get new top hats... Does this sound like a reasonable setup RCE, Vorshlag, or Ground Control is what I'm assuming I should put in the front and Group N in the rear?
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:27 AM   #3079
gixxer7fiddy
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A few years ago when I was looking to run stu a 9" wheel was the money wheel for stu. Is this still the case or has it moved up to a 9.5 because of the new tires running a bit wider?
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:02 AM   #3080
CopperTopNWOR
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The evo's locally all seem to be on 9.5" wheels and rivals lately. Not sure if that answers the 9" v 9.5" question though.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:08 AM   #3081
bassicfun
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I have ran both, noticable difference, mostly in the stretch/bind of the sidewall. But if you can get a GOOD (light) set of 9s, that will not be the reason you win or lose... if budget isn't a concern, I'd go with 9.5s, just a smaller market for them compared to 9s.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:59 AM   #3082
Splash
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I have both, and I don't see myself losing anything on the 9's, but the 9.5's look more bitchin'

I have also run 8.5's before, and those seemed to need higher pressures and likely don't lay down as much of the treadface, and 8's were ridiculous by comparison.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:18 AM   #3083
piknockout
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I think tires like the RS3 and Rivals like to be stretched a little bit to work well on our cars. Due to the soft sidewall, the stretch provides better responsiveness and better use of the full tread. At least that's my thought/opinion.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:36 AM   #3084
SolidSTI
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Would it be possible to be STU legal with a stock boost map even if you are on larger injectors and fuel pump?
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:55 AM   #3085
Splash
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Nope. There is no provision for replacing the injectors or pump in ST*.
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:20 PM   #3086
SolidSTI
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Stuck in SM class, first world problems.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:42 PM   #3087
gixxer7fiddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassicfun View Post
I have ran both, noticable difference, mostly in the stretch/bind of the sidewall. But if you can get a GOOD (light) set of 9s, that will not be the reason you win or lose... if budget isn't a concern, I'd go with 9.5s, just a smaller market for them compared to 9s.
Well I have 2 sets of 9.5" RPF-1s from my current SM car. Guess ill stick with those for next year
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:23 PM   #3088
bassicfun
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Sounds like a no brainer with that knowledge gix.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:28 PM   #3089
gixxer7fiddy
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Wasn't 100% sure If the added width would affect grip.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:24 PM   #3090
Studmike02
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It was my WRX's first autocross, landed in STU due to my wheels, the other STU guys there killed me ha but I had so much fun, looking to get a set of 17" Rpf1s next year with some ZIIs and Feal coilovers.

Just one picture for now, got some editing to do.


IMG_9079 by Mjbrownell02, on Flickr
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:34 AM   #3091
Studmike02
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Here's the video of my runs.


Any advices or suggestions?
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:56 PM   #3092
abrumlev
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Lol you did get toasted didn't you?

Austin and Myke are tough. I wanted to hang with my little girl this weekend or I would've been up driving Austin's and hoping to beat those guys.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:59 PM   #3093
WRX8XB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixxer7fiddy View Post
A few years ago when I was looking to run stu a 9" wheel was the money wheel for stu. Is this still the case or has it moved up to a 9.5 because of the new tires running a bit wider?
the 9.5" +38mm RPF1 require a much smaller spacer compared to the 9" +35mm.

one reason 9.5"s are more common in the Subaru world.

RPF1 all the things.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:32 PM   #3094
gixxer7fiddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX8XB View Post

the 9.5" +38mm RPF1 require a much smaller spacer compared to the 9" +35mm.

one reason 9.5"s are more common in the Subaru world.

RPF1 all the things.
Well yea. Lol I have 3 sets of RPF-1s an autox setup, dry road course setup, and wet road course setup. This is all a mute point as I'm going to a brz here in the coming weeks though.
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:55 PM   #3095
AHK
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I have recently been messing with springs and a rear sway bar to waken up the rear end. The results were great this past weekend at the Virginia Autocross Championships but looking at the pictures afterwards I'm getting some rear lift. The car felt great so is this anything to be concerned about? Would I get performance gains by correcting this?




Video of my best run each day. Day 2 was very wet!
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:03 PM   #3096
SolidSTI
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Lifting the rear is hard on the diff (if using power), you are getting less traction and less forward movement. Running a stiff front bar and stock rear sway has really helped the car get rid of dogleg.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-suspe...autocross.html
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:32 PM   #3097
em99sport
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More spring and less rear bar.
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:02 PM   #3098
DougM
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performance-wise a little lift is (IMHO) where you want it, as long as it drops back down immediately after adding throttle. But yeah, rummor has it your diff will start to hate you after a couple of years.

Stiffening the front will reduce rear lift but it will/could also remove some of the "livelyness" you're now enjoying... it's a balancing act of course and I'd personally err on the side of "livelyness" and deal w/ a little lift
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:50 PM   #3099
abrumlev
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We went from a 25mm on middle setting to a Whiteline 22mm on soft. Essentially the same as the stock STi bar. We also increased rebound and that combo helped getting that inside rear back down.
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:48 AM   #3100
AHK
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Thanks a lot fellas and that link SolidSTI posted has some great insight.

Right now I have Perrin 25mm on medium w/ Whiteline brace support in the rear and stock front bar. This was obviously not how I wanted to leave things but only a start to my suspension tuning as I was hoping a few pieces at a time might give me a better result instead of doing everything at once and not knowing what the hell is doing what.

From your suggestions it looks like the next step will be adding a front ~24mm bar w/ end links to help reduce front dive a bit and setting my rear 25mm to soft.

Also please keep in mind, I plan to use my car for HPDE's at VIR, Summit Point, etc. so I also don't want to make my setup too autocross specific. Meaning I don't want things too twitchy for high speed cornering.
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