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Old 11-19-2009, 04:52 AM   #176
MSTiFK8R
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does anybody have pin numbers for Knock sensor signal on 2006MY Forester AT?
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:53 AM   #177
Rally STi Guy
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bringing this back from the dead but can any one tell me the part number of the Bosch sensor that is recommended to be used with this? I asked TurboX and they said that a separate sensor is recommend
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:01 PM   #178
SineMetuSTI
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Pretty new to forum, but does anyone know of someone who can tune on these old systems, that is in the Seattle area? What would average cost be?
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:55 PM   #179
STInfection
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Resurrecting this thread from the grave!

Quote:
Originally Posted by PDXTuning View Post
We used the wires that came on the knock light. We have never added sheilded wires to any of the knock light installations we have done.
I recently installed a TXS Knocklite that I bought about 18 months ago. I chose to connect it to the factory knock sensor because I wanted to see exactly what the ECU was seeing. It's quick-spliced into the knock sensor signal wire (to minimize the impact on the factory harness) just before it goes into the ECU. It works fine but I noticed something interesting. I data log with Romraider. When the knocklite is connected to the factory sensor the knock-sum* count in romraider counts up much more quickly and randomly. All of this was done with free revving under 3000RPM. When I disconnect the KL the speed and frequency of the knock-sum* count is back to normal. All of the results are very repeatable.

I'm guessing that I'm introducing noise into the system? I'm thinking about trying a shielded wire and some shielding tape to see if that cuts down on the noise. Right now I don't like the idea of running the KL if it's inducing a bunch of false knock signals to the ECU.

The other thing that's interesting is the factory knock sensor wire is not shielded where I spliced into it just before the ECU. The wiring diagram in the FSM shows that it is shielded somewhere in there. There's another wire in that same part of the harness that the FSM call's the "shield wire" for the knock sensor, but it goes to a different point in the connector. I don't understand how it shields if it's not wrapped around the signal wire throughout the entire harness?

Let's see if anyone can answer this one lol
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:55 PM   #180
Rally STi Guy
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I recently installed mine as well but I think I had my knock light even longer before I installed it.
I did just a quick splice as well be I did it off the sensor (used the factory sensor as well) before the sensor plugs into the wire that goes through the fire wall. I did it that was so I would actually be messing with the harness. If I mess up the wire I could just easily replace the sensor and be back to square one. I will mention that about 80% of the wire one the sensor is shielded. There was just enough room to to get the quick splice on the part that wasn't shielded.
I haven't really messed with the Sensitivity of the knock light at all. I only saw the light turn on once and I'm only running an off the shelf map. I haven't done any data logging either so I can't say if the counts are off at all like you have been able to check and repeat.
Hope this helps some.
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:19 AM   #181
STInfection
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Thanks for the response, good info. After the knock sensor connects into the harness in the engine bay, is it shielded on the harness side as far as you could tell as well?

I'm on a factory tune, so I'm not worried about the knock, just wanted to get it dialed in before some big upgrades.

I tried a little experiment. Took a length 18 awg wire and connected it to the quick splice to see if did the same thing to the knock-sum* count as the KL wire since it's also not shielded. It seemed pretty normal however, maybe a few more counts here and there, but not close to when I have the KL installed. Planned to compare that to some shielded RG-58 but since the 18 awg control was normal enough I didn't have anything to compare. Prob have to try the shielded wire altogether with the KL and see what it does.

I can take the male end from the KL that goes into the quick-splice and just start to insert it and the knock-sum* count just starts ticking away. Weird ****.
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:22 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally STi Guy View Post
bringing this back from the dead but can any one tell me the part number of the Bosch sensor that is recommended to be used with this? I asked TurboX and they said that a separate sensor is recommend
Did they say why they recommended the separate sensor?
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:48 AM   #183
Rally STi Guy
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From what I recall and from what I've read is that the factory sensor is sensitive and that I separate sensor for the knock lite wouldn't effect the ECU and that they could be ran independently of each other. Likely just a safe guard for TurboX to prevent people saying the knock lite cause an engine failure.
After the factory sensor plugs into the harness in the engine bay the wire isn't shielded from what I could tell.
I might have ran a 16 awg wire, mostly because that's what I had but it might have been 18. And it was likely 4 or more feet long.
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:00 AM   #184
STInfection
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally STi Guy View Post
Likely just a safe guard for TurboX to prevent people saying the knock lite cause an engine failure.
Valid.

Did a little reading on the Knock-sum* value. Apparently it's pretty common for it to increment during idle over false knock. Puts me a little more at ease because this is where the KL seemed to be affecting the count. Still weird. We shall see if the shielded wire does anything at all.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:17 AM   #185
ride5000
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Why on earth would you guys deliberately screw with the only thing keeping your pistons together?
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:03 PM   #186
STInfection
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So today I gave the shielded wire a try. Picked some up at radio shack, part #278-513. It's not bulky like RG-58 and has a pretty decent shield - foil wrapped with braided copper. I honestly didn't think it would make any difference because the factory sensor wire in the harness doesn't appear to be directly shielded. To my surprise it did work. No more random knock-sum* counting away at idle.

It's also worth mentioning that when the original unshielded sensor wire from the knocklite was routed through the cab on top of the seats for the sake of plugging it in, as opposed to the area under the dash between the driver and passenger foot wells where the wire will go permanently, it didn't cause the knock-sum* to count away. So something back in there is causing some EMI.

Apparently you can shield wires by wrapping another wire with it and grounding it at one end. Maybe the factory harness is shielded with the various ground wires that are wrapped in there, I don't know.
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