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Old 11-21-2011, 01:16 PM   #276
wrxman60
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What happened to the pictures? Can they be put back up?
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:16 PM   #277
86scotty
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Default Did my clutch by pulling the engine

Wow, i can't believe how easy it was. Now for the record, it wasn't easy at all. Probably about 12 hours total, but i was due for a coolant flush and new hoses so that's why i went the engine pull route instead of the tranny pull route. The toughest part was getting the rear crankshaft seal out.

Then i had trouble getting the engine back into the motor mount holes, it had shifted forward. I think i could do the job as an easy one day job now that i have done it.
Thanks to all above, i read this thread thoroughly before i started and watched a couple of Youtube videos.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:38 PM   #278
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Anyway to resurrect the pictures?
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:10 PM   #279
kohlby777
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Im about to start changing the clutch on my 03 wrx... anyway to get the pictures back up?
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:26 PM   #280
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subscribed need pictures too =)
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:43 AM   #281
DNut
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Because I luckily archived the photos and like you guys so much (Well, most of you, anyways ):

[If a mod wants to edit the original posts with these photo links, feel free as I'm not planning on moving them]

step 1: make your car look like this:


step 2: do this


just kidding!

so after 1 or 2 too many AWD launches my stocker was on its way out
time required: it took me and 2 other friends who have never done a wrx clutch before a good 7 or 8 hours to do including a few breaks
tools needed besides sockets, deepwells, and wrenches you will need: a punch, transmission jack, torque wrench, pry bar, 1 (one) m6 * 1.25 bolt (the longer the better), in impact gun made life a lot easier, and the clutch alignment tool (should have came with your clutch)
important torque values (all in ft*lbs) 11.6, 23.1, 36.9, 52.8 these are for the pressure plate, prop shaft, transmission to engine, and flywheel respectively
clutch (duh!), flywheel, pilot bearing, throw out bearing
consumables: brake parts cleaner, grease, pb blaster, loctite thread locker
things you might want to buy: spring pins [(2) these keep the front axles from sliding out], down pipe gasket, all exhaust gaskets from the turbo to down pipe and back
things you might want to upgrade while its all out not covered in this guide: front sways + endlinks, transmission mount, shifter and shift linkage, shift bushings, transmission cross member bushings, rear shifter stay bushing, pitch stop, transmission and rear diff fluid

disconnect the negative terminal on the battery
remove the intercooler to gain access underneath
disconnect the pitch stop
start disconnecting the down pipe
disconnect all the wire harnesses that go into the transmission
remove the starter




remove the slave cylinder from the transmission
what ever you do don't step on the clutch now!
there's a 10mm hex plug that you will need to remove from the transmission in order to free the clutch release fork. we found it was more accessible from the bottom...its on the driver's side of the vehicle near the top of the transmission
once you've pulled the plug out thread a 6mm bolt (m6 * 1.25 the longer the better) bolt into the hole start pulling (this is the shaft that holds the release fork in place)



this should free up the release fork

now make the interior of your car look like this:



disconnect the shift linkage up from the shift lever

we went ahead and disconnected the front half shafts too even though the service manual doesn't tell you do do it until much later. use a punch and hammer to remove the spring pins on each side (the service manual says you should replace them my passenger side one was really beat up)






disconnect the front endlinks
remove the bolt holding the ball joint from the transverse link



you should with a little bit of muscle be able to drop the front half shafts off, try e

go ahead and finish taking off the down pipe (it would probably be best to take the rest of the exhaust off but we didn't)


Last edited by DNut; 01-25-2012 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:45 AM   #282
DNut
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remove top 4 bolts that hold the transmission and the engine together (the 2 on the left hold the starter on so really just 2 on the right)

now you will need to disconnect the prop shaft



remove the 6 bolts securing the prop shaft protector
important step: make sure to mark the position of how the prop shaft mates with the differential



remove the 4 nuts that hold the prop shaft (if you didn't set the parking brake have someone hold the rear wheels in place while you remove the nuts)

now remove the 2 other bolts that hold the prop shaft up to the body of the car...you should be able to pull the shaft right out now

remove the top 4 bolts that hold the engine and transmission together (the 2 on the right hold the starter on and should be off already)

disconnect the shifter linkage from the transmission, it should be 2 rolds, one where the shifter bushings are and the other right above that, it should just be a nut and bolt for each one



remove the bottom nuts and bolts that hold the transmission to the engine (iirc there are 2 nuts and 2 bolts)

transmission jack time



now remove all the bolts from the transmission crossmembers (air tools help

separating the engine and transmission was a royal pain in the ass for us, we had to lift the front of the engine by jamming a 2x4 behind the cross-over pipe and jacking it up...it finally came loose after yelling some obscenities at it

undo the 6 bolts that hold on the pressure plate to the flywheel, after you get that off if you don't have air tools you'll need something to keep the crank from turning, you can have someone hold a breaker bar + socket on the nut that holds the crankshaft pulley to the crank shaft or jamb a screw driver onto one of the teeth on the flywheel.



hey i've seen that pic already!
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:48 AM   #283
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eye candy:
13lbs flywheel compared to 2x lbs stock



pretty worn down



a few hot spots on the old one huh?





install the pilot bearing onto the flywheel lightly tap it into place with a hammer

install the flywheel gradually increasing the torque in a crisscross pattern to a final value of 52.8 ft*lbs
put the clutch alignment tool into the pilot bearing
now slide the clutch on
install the pressure plate 6 bolts once again crisscross pattern slowly increasing the torque to 11.6 ft*lbs
important step: after you've reached 11.6 ft*lbs once on each bolt go over it again since you are putting pressure on the fingers of the pressure plate and actually pushing the plate in it will loosen up all the other bolts you just tightened.
install the throw out bearing...it just snaps into place
remove the alignment tool



y helo thar mr turbo

some grease on the transmission spline



make this happen



jack the transmission back up and engage the splines
install the transmission crossmember, make sure the bolts are really tight!

install the bottom 4 fasteners that hold the transmission to the engine
36.9 ft*lbs

install the prop shaft pretty self explanatory
23.1 ft*lbs for the bolts that hold it on to the rear diff, just remember the orientation

install the exhaust back on now i believe the torque value for all those is 26.7 ft*lbs

install the front half shafts, the service manual recommends you use new spring pins
install the transverse link and ball joints
connect the front endlinks
connect the shift linkage

lower the car
install the starter, and the rest of the bolts holding on the transmission to the engine, same torque values as the bottom ones

remember that crazy 10mm hex plug?
now we need to align the release fork and that shaft that holds it in place



the shaft only goes in there one way so you're going to have to turn it and play around with the fork, you can take the boot off and shine a flash light down in there to make it a little easier it took is a little while just be patient

install the pitch stop



mad tight jdm bling yo!

connect all the harnesses back to the transmission (should be 3 plugs + 1 ground)

install the slave cylinder
install intercooler
put shift linkage in side the car back together

profit!

cliffs:
take old clutch out
put new one in

edit: any technicians want to chime on how to tips on how to separate the transmission from the engine?
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:49 AM   #284
DNut
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A little info about the clutch release fork....

First, before you go fiddling with the shaft the fork pivots on, you must get the fork into the release bearing. PRIOR to installing the clutch, become familiar with the bearing.



The bearing is in the center of the pressure plate, and it has two tabs that stick out and curl around, into a pair of square tabs. You'll see I spun the bearing so the tabs are at 9 and 3 o'clock. This helped a ton.

After the trans is bolted on, you need to use a flashlight to look down the shift lever hole. Spot the two square "holes" in the release bearing and put one prong of the fork in each one. It's a little difficult to tell if you've got it right, but here's how to test: start sliding in the pivot shaft. If it binds up, the release fork is incorrectly installed. Keep in mind you will probably have to lift up a little on the fork to get the shaft through it.

The shaft (that's held in place by the 10mm allen plug) engages a tab inside the transmission. I believe this tab is aligned vertically. You'll find, as you try to install the shaft, it often won't slide all the way into the hole, but a portion will block the threads where the plug belongs. Solution, pull the shaft back out a bit, rotate one direction or the other 25 degrees or so, then jam it back in. Eventually it will go all the way in.

Once it's jammed in far enough that the allen plug threads are clear, check the fork again. It should now have very limited movement, none of which is up/down or side/side. Only a little fore/aft.

Remove the M6x1.25 bolt from the shaft and install the allen plug. Install the two bolts for the slave cylinder. Note: The slave cylinder engages a small notched recess about halfway down the release fork, NOT the hole. The hole is for the fork return spring.

Testing the completed install: Now (and not before now) you can press on the clutch. Do it very slowly to ensure the slave cylinder pushrod engages the proper notch on the fork. Have a helper guide it if need be (watch your fingers). Since the piston was probably retracted a bit, you'll need to pump the clutch several times before it will work normally. Watch the lever action of the fork. Does it pivot smoothly and quietly? Does the clutch actually engage/disengage? Why did Britney Spears shave her head? Does it make any abnormal noise? Does it "feel" normal from inside the car?

Other notes:



In this pic you'll see we put grease on the prop shaft slip yoke seal. This was done to prevent damage to the seal as the prop shaft was reinstalled. This is VERY important. You shaould also clean and lightly grease the shift fork shaft to ease installation. Also apply a small glob of grease to the tip of the transmission mainshaft for the pilot bearing, as well as a light coat on the splines.

Great success!
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:34 PM   #285
Blue Meanie
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OK, did my own clutch replacement last summer using this guide and another and made some mistakes (flame if you must, I prolly deserve it) so now I need some advice please.

The car's been running 'rough' ever since but I didn't really notice it at first but it seems to be getting worse, with a rattle now coming down off load, so I started looking stuff up...

First, I did not mark the position of the drive shaft so it was out of balance. I found some paint marks on it, from the factory I assume, and lined those up with some improvement but still rough and still the rattle.

Second, there are three little pressure plate alignment pins and one of them fell out when I got the flywheel resurfaced. I didn't notice until I had put everything back together and thought 'well, it's so small, what difference can it make?' and left it with only two of the three in place.

You can see these pins in this pic from someone else's fly:



Third, I found this note in the Subaru manual:

"When installing the clutch cover on the flywheel,
position the clutch cover so that there is a gap of
120 or more between 0 marks on the flywheel
and clutch cover. (0 marks indicate the directions
of residual unbalance.)"

I had not seen this in any of the how-tos and so did not do it. I don't even recall there being any "0"s to line up.

Also, I didn't use lock tight which on hind site I should have.

So, I'm buying another used stock fly and getting resurfaced (and balanced if needed) and am going to drop the tranny again.

The question I have is what else might I have F'd up by running like this for maybe 2K miles? While I'm in there I want to take care of anything else and I can't identify this rattling so I'm worried about the center bearing or something.

Thanks for your help!

Last edited by Blue Meanie; 01-26-2012 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:42 PM   #286
PHRESHKHID
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How close is this guide to a 2006 WRX ?

Thanks
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:09 PM   #287
promted
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Default 10mm hex won't budge! Umm...now what...

Okay so I thought I would take a stab at my clutch using the guides here. Everything has been going great until now... I cannot for the life of me get the 10mm hex plug bolt to come off! I first started just spaying with PB Blaster and giving a tug, wouldn't go, sprayed again, waited, then went at it with a breaker bar, still no. Then I got inventive and held the breaker bar underneath and torqued on the wrench by lifting the bar up with a floor jack, all that did was lift my car. So then I thought I would be smart and disconnect steering linkage to get an air gun (IR 6.2 Bar 8,000 RPM) in there... and guess what...wouldn't budge. Now I'm out of options, I don't exactly know how to get this thing off. Any of you guys run into anything like this before?
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:27 PM   #288
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Went at it with a torch and still no luck... I think I might be in trouble because now it's starting to strip. Any advise would be appreciated.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:04 PM   #289
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I've been trying to go through the dust boot now to try and access the throwout bearing through that small opening. So far no luck
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:54 PM   #290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by promted
I've been trying to go through the dust boot now to try and access the throwout bearing through that small opening. So far no luck
Bring it to subaru to have them take it out, there is no way to take out the clutch without taking the bearing out.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:36 PM   #291
promted
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I got my tranny off, but not the bolt. I was able to go through the gap in the engine and tranny with a wrench and undo the bolts holding my pressure plate down. I wedged a bolt on my flywheel to keep it from spinning. It was a lot slower but I was able to pull the tranny with the pressure plate and throwout bearing still attached. Now I can worry about getting the bolt out with a lot more access.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...1#post36862337
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:12 AM   #292
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This thread is a great help when replacing the transmission. The one change I would recommend is to install the release fork and throwout bearing on the transmission and not on the pressure plate. This is what the factory service manual says to do, and it makes it so you don't have to line up the fork and the release bearing after the trans is bolted to the engine. Once you get the fork and bearing on the transmission input shaft use a string or a bungee to pull the fork forward so that the release bearing is pushed all the way back into the bell housing. After you get the transmission installed remove the string and push the fork all the way back to lock the bearing into the pressure plate.

For me the hardest part of this whole process was getting the 10mm cover removed, it was really stuck in place and I ended up breaking a hex socket bit. Lining up the transmission required three jacks (trans jack, another jack to elevate the rear of the trans, and a third to lift the front of the engine).

- Matt
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:01 PM   #293
sliders02wrx
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Default replacing clutch alone. not an option.

I must say this is a great right up!

However: I will add a couple detail. Everthing came apart quickly except the tranny from the car in which I reinstalled the driveshaft guard ( the thing with 6 bolts in it near the rear differential ) which i used to hook two come alongs to to pull the tranny off the motor. Right or wrong this was the only way I was getting it off. And yes i did break about six heat shield bolts no biggy that was an easy fix.

Now putting everything back together,,,, Well. the install of the stage two kevlar clutch the 12lbs. fly wheel etc.. was easy.
lifting the trtanny backup into place with two jacks ( by myself mind you ) was no treat. I spent litterally ALL day trying this alone. to no avail. following the above instructions which were great btw.
at the end of night one I had my girlfriend help me only to discover the clutch fork was wedged behind the throw out bearing instead of in where it belongs.
so take it all the way back out to inspect that i didnt damage anything.
and had to call a friend over the next day to reinstall. it took him and I aboout an hour to reinstall tranny crossmemebers and half shafts.
put everything back together just fine. clutch works great.
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:13 PM   #294
Docsuby79
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man I wish the pics still worked on this thread..... Anybody got any help on this?
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:25 PM   #295
PSBeachBum
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Help in what?
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:30 AM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Docsuby79 View Post
man I wish the pics still worked on this thread..... Anybody got any help on this?
I was searching through this the other day and was pretty sure he revived them somewhere in the middle so just look through all the pages I think he did that for everybody.

I will need a clutch pretty soon and a really good tuning shop that I used quoted me just 6 hours of labor for the clutch and flywheel installation that's almost too good of a deal to pass up. If I do it myself it will take a whole weekend and I will have to buy more tools, I have the basic stuff but I would need to get torque wrenches and a transmission jack. So it might be almost worth it just to have my shop do it for me even though I think this would be a fun project
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:25 PM   #297
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Default Cluch replace

I've done clutch changes on car's before, but I have finally met my match. After day's of getting through rusted bolts and seized nuts, I was ready to take the CV axles out. Apparently Subaru used two types of CV's one that needs to be pulled from the trans, and the other has a pin that's pressed out and can be pulled from the spline. The pin type CV is great, and comes apart easily. But, I have the CV that needs to be PULLED from the trans. I used pullers, hammers, pry bars, and I can't get the CV pulled out of the trans. My next step was to remove the ball joint, and tie rod. This is where I threw in my bloody oil soaked rag. With all the rust, working on the garage floor, no torch, and no high powered air gun to remove the seized suspension, I had to pull the plug on this project. Good luck to owners with cars that are in good/newer condition, this a easy job. Many of the pics posted show cars in decent shape, and will make these projects go much smoother.
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:30 PM   #298
rmbr0911
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Default Circlip Failure

Ok, so I followed this procedure fairly close however the circlip that holds the shift fork down has failed 2x. I thought maybe there was an issue with the clutch kit I bought but at this point I have a feeling I am doing something wrong. Clutch pedal works fine for a short period ( one or two throws ) then bottoms out and won't return. When I tore everything apart, the circlip was popped out .. again?? Help please!!
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Old 03-07-2014, 12:27 AM   #299
lego126
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thanks 4 the pics. this helped me alot last month
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