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Old 08-20-2013, 04:49 PM   #1
Groceryboy
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Houston TX
Vehicle:
'11 Sportster
Bobber, 71 Chevelle

Default HOU: Help with clutch bleeding ($reward$)

I have a new master and slave on my 98 legacy outback. I have bled the clutch numerous times and many times it bleeds fine...until it sits for a while (usually overnight) then it's hard to get into gear and the pedal is soft.

I have no visible leaks and I have replaced both master and slave 2 times with the same issue.

Help!!!! Will reward with cash and beer
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:12 PM   #2
wrx_02
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Either you have a leak or air in the line.
You could have faulty Master's but since they are new I would think that would not be the case.

How are you bleeding them? Are you doing the old standard method or do you have a bleeder tool?
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:31 AM   #3
backslider
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It's best to unmount the slave, build a stop for the plunger, point the nipple up, and then bleed. Clutch slave is a pain in the ass.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:15 AM   #4
Groceryboy
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I've tried reverse bleeding with tool, conventional, almost every way I can think. I just don't have much of the resources to do much more (no garage ect)

Anyone who can give me a hand would be great, I can limp it to where needed. I have been trying to fix this issue for weeks and have still had no luck.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:33 PM   #5
atomicfire
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OBP

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I'd help you out but you've said you already bled and replaced all the parts..there really isn't much else to the clutch system.

How did you bleed the clutch? Did you use a vaccum bleeder, a pressure bleeder, or 2-man pump-and-bleed?
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:02 PM   #6
Groceryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicfire View Post
I'd help you out but you've said you already bled and replaced all the parts..there really isn't much else to the clutch system.

How did you bleed the clutch? Did you use a vaccum bleeder, a pressure bleeder, or 2-man pump-and-bleed?
I have done 2 man and reverse bleeding up through the slave. Sometimes I get good results other times not. When I do the car will drive great for a day or two then go soft, with no visible leaks.

I'm thinking I just still have air in the system and maybe overnight it works it's way around. I would love to be able to bench bleed like it says and go from there.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:16 PM   #7
atomicfire
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Not saying you're stupid or anything, but when you do the 2-man method are you doing it like this?

1. Press on clutch pedal
2. Quickly open and close bleed valve before slave completely opens
3. Release clutch pedal, pump a few times
4. Check clutch fluid level, return to step 1

The most important step is step 2 - if the bleeder valve is left open and the slave completely opens up or if your helper releases the clutch before the valve is closed, you will introduce air.

Have you tried replacing the copper crush washers on the banjo bolts? Have you tried a new clutch line?
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:14 PM   #8
wrx_02
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^^^^ If doing the 2 man I would suggest getting some clear hose and add it to the end of the bleeder. Put the other end in a clear clean jar with some fresh fluid in the bottom of it.

You will see the fluid and air come out of the hose when you bleed the system. The hose dipped in fluid is an extra safety factor should your helper release the pedal before you instruct him to do so.
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:46 PM   #9
Groceryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicfire View Post
Not saying you're stupid or anything, but when you do the 2-man method are you doing it like this?

1. Press on clutch pedal
2. Quickly open and close bleed valve before slave completely opens
3. Release clutch pedal, pump a few times
4. Check clutch fluid level, return to step 1

The most important step is step 2 - if the bleeder valve is left open and the slave completely opens up or if your helper releases the clutch before the valve is closed, you will introduce air.

Have you tried replacing the copper crush washers on the banjo bolts? Have you tried a new clutch line?
That's how I bleed every time. I haven't replaced the crush washers though or the 2 lines.
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:29 PM   #10
atomicfire
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2005 STi
OBP

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groceryboy View Post
That's how I bleed every time. I haven't replaced the crush washers though or the 2 lines.
I might have an extra clutch line that you can *have*...just buy me dinner tonight or something. Copper banjo washers you can get at AutoZone if you bring it in, they have a stand you can match them up with.
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:03 PM   #11
Groceryboy
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'11 Sportster
Bobber, 71 Chevelle

Default

Also, the fork that the slave cylinder rod pushes on has a lot of play when the slave is off\rod not pressing it. I can wiggle it back and forth pretty good. Should it be solid or have play?
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