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Old 08-20-2013, 11:32 PM   #76
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CriticalityEvent View Post
Any update on your issue?

I had the same thing happen on my '12 WRX. The first time was on 5/20/13 when I was at 44,694 miles (yes, I drive a TON). That time was just a misfire on cylinder 1. More recently, on 7/26, my CEL came back on and I pulled P0301 through P0304 -- misfire on all 4 cylinders. A couple of weeks later, I put in some injector cleaner. Driving home last night, I noticed the CEL had cleared itself. Glad it happened when it did because I had an appointment to bring it in tomorrow.

I change my oil religiously at 7,500 miles with 5W-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic and don't really drive my car too hard.

wayWAY too long on that garbage 'blow me up a motor' oil

and i predict that you will soon have a criticality event and need a new engine due to using that oil

give it...mmmmm...a month or 2
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:25 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
Do not run this oil for 7,500 miles unless you're adding 2 qts of M1 15W-50. It shears to a 20 grade oil in less than 3k miles.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2527193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
wayWAY too long on that garbage 'blow me up a motor' oil and i predict that you will soon have a criticality event and need a new engine due to using that oil give it...mmmmm...a month or 2
Agh, I had a feeling that guide I saw was being a little generous. Do you guys think that I should send a sample to Blackstone? And here I thought that blue glow was just some harmless Cherenkov radiation. :-P

Also, I found a pretty extensive thread on misfires and P0451 evap codes (which my car also threw the other day) on clubwrx: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/genera...ol-system.html

Basically, after my carís CEL cleared itself on Monday, it re-appeared Tuesday with P0301 through P0304 again, but now with P0451. A prolonged rough idle shudder preceded the CEL.
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:34 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CriticalityEvent View Post
Agh, I had a feeling that guide I saw was being a little generous. Do you guys think that I should send a sample to Blackstone? And here I thought that blue glow was just some harmless Cherenkov radiation. :-P

Also, I found a pretty extensive thread on misfires and P0451 evap codes (which my car also threw the other day) on clubwrx: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/genera...ol-system.html

Basically, after my carís CEL cleared itself on Monday, it re-appeared Tuesday with P0301 through P0304 again, but now with P0451. A prolonged rough idle shudder preceded the CEL.
You could get a UOA for it when you change it out. I don't think it will show anything catastrophic, and even if your wear metals are high, we wouldn't know if that is a trend with just one UOA. If it would make you feel better to see what your wear is, then go ahead and do it. If it is just going to give you nervous fits, then don't bother.

Moving forward, I would change your oil at half that interval with something like Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 if you're going to stick with 5w-30. These oil threads always end up exactly the same, and we're straying from the original topic quite a bit.

Here's a thread with a pretty good range of discussion and a few UOA's: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=499177

Another: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2078671
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:31 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by bicycle_wreck View Post
You could get a UOA for it when you change it out. I don't think it will show anything catastrophic, and even if your wear metals are high, we wouldn't know if that is a trend with just one UOA. If it would make you feel better to see what your wear is, then go ahead and do it. If it is just going to give you nervous fits, then don't bother.

Moving forward, I would change your oil at half that interval with something like Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 if you're going to stick with 5w-30. These oil threads always end up exactly the same, and we're straying from the original topic quite a bit.

Here's a thread with a pretty good range of discussion and a few UOA's: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=499177

Another: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2078671
Never in my life have I left such an egregious gap in my research on a topic, to say nothing its importance. The worst part? I was on this forum for MONTHS before even buying the car, yet somehow was still of the belief that 7,500 miles was the recommended interval for a freaking turbocharged car. I guess my first major ďupgradeĒ will be a new engine when I hit 80,000 miles.

Youíre right, I've derailed this thread enough. Iíll read on my own and post elsewhere on that topic, but Iíll report back here what the dealership finds next week when I take the car in for the misfire/evap codes.
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:44 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CriticalityEvent View Post
Never in my life have I left such an egregious gap in my research on a topic, to say nothing its importance. The worst part? I was on this forum for MONTHS before even buying the car, yet somehow was still of the belief that 7,500 miles was the recommended interval for a freaking turbocharged car. I guess my first major “upgrade” will be a new engine when I hit 80,000 miles.

You’re right, I've derailed this thread enough. I’ll read on my own and post elsewhere on that topic, but I’ll report back here what the dealership finds next week when I take the car in for the misfire/evap codes.
Don't be too hard on yourself. SOA themselves have been inconsistent on the oil change interval for our cars. Despite the fact that SOA is seemingly OK with it, 7,500 miles is too long on an SM/SN 5w-30, as mentioned by several others.

Now you know and you can do your next change earlier, which gives you an excuse to spend some quality time under the car.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:57 PM   #81
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So I dropped the car off this morning and just picked it back up. Here is the summary on the invoice:

Quote:
CUST STATES CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON
P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0451 STORED. FOUND
TSB# 11-116-12R FOR CONCERN. SOFTWARE UPDATE AVAILABLE.
REPROGRAMMED ECM, ROAD TEST, ALL PASSING AT THIS TIME.
At least no new codes came up since the light came back on. When the tech called to tell me that the car was ready, I asked if he had done a compression test, but he said that he didnít need to. The ďroad testĒ was about 10 miles, and Iíve driven it another 7 so far. It feels a lot smoother while idling, but I'm not going to get my hopes up just yet...
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:51 AM   #82
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Side note:

Thin oil = high flow rate = high cooling rate

Thick oil = low flow rate = low cooling rate

Engine failures are often caused by heat build up.

An engine build to tight tolerances needs a thin hot viscosity in order to have sufficient flow to cool. Most modern cars are now 20 weight because they are built so tight. Using thicker oils can cause problems and provide zero benefit.

Typically a thick oil is used on a loose built engine or a worn engine that is beginning to have a lot of blowby. Thick oil can also be used if the temps are elevated sufficiently. However, a good radiator system should keep the engine running reasonably. If you're in a climate that is very hot, it's a better focus to upgrade the cooling system than to up the oil thickness. You can even run a lower temp thermostat and an oil cooler. At the end of the day you should only use a thick oil if the engine is built for or if the engine is worn. Using thick oil for the sake of using thick oil only reduces the cooling performance of the oiling system and can promote failure. These engines aren't built for thick oil and will have no benefit from using thick oil. You step to thick oil when the consumption goes up. If you're burning a quart in under 3k miles, you might consider stepping up to 40 weight. If you're burning a quart in under 3k miles with 40 weight, you can consider stepping to 50 weight. Consumption drops to about half for each step up, at least from my experience. By this point though, you really should be planning a rebuild because the wear's pretty significant.

Also I agree with Scotty. I have no clue how oil viscosity causes CELs. It sounds quite silly. The oil is VERY, VERY thick cold and thins out a HUGE amount as it heats up. If viscosity alone caused CELs, you'd see this happening all the time, especially in colder climates where it takes a significant amount of time for the engine to warm up. It would throw CELs every day you drive the thing.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:53 PM   #83
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Had the CEL come on my 2013 WRX last weekend with 3500 miles.

First dealer had no clue, just reset it and told me that it was normal for this car to hesitate and shake at lower RPMs. Silly fellows.

Anyway, they cleared the CEL and sent me on my way. Car continued to drive like crap,then the CEL showed up again 3 days later.

Took it to a different dealer this time, they called Subaru of America and after a couple of checks they checked the grounding on the wiring harness, they re-soldered it and cleared the CEL. Drove it home for ten miles and I want to say that the car is back to normal. I can cruise in fifth gear at 2000 rpm and the car drives smooth.

I will keep an eye on it and see how it goes.

Cheers
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:21 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lahlooha View Post
Had the CEL come on my 2013 WRX last weekend with 3500 miles.

First dealer had no clue, just reset it and told me that it was normal for this car to hesitate and shake at lower RPMs. Silly fellows.

Anyway, they cleared the CEL and sent me on my way. Car continued to drive like crap,then the CEL showed up again 3 days later.

Took it to a different dealer this time, they called Subaru of America and after a couple of checks they checked the grounding on the wiring harness, they re-soldered it and cleared the CEL. Drove it home for ten miles and I want to say that the car is back to normal. I can cruise in fifth gear at 2000 rpm and the car drives smooth.

I will keep an eye on it and see how it goes.

Cheers
What part of the wiring harness? The main plug on the passenger side near the strut tower? Can you post a copy of your work order? We have a guy in our local club who is having misfires and the local dealership is still troubleshooting. Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:13 AM   #85
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Sounds like the 02-05 EJ205 motors were much better motors than these new ej255/257's
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:54 PM   #86
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going through the same problem myself... just cracked ringland on piston #4 now the dealership is telling me the oil THEY have been putting in is failing... they recommend forge pistons
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:40 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamGoy View Post
going through the same problem myself... just cracked ringland on piston #4 now the dealership is telling me the oil THEY have been putting in is failing... they recommend forge pistons

Then ask them what oil should you be using.....and then say SURE, throw some forged pistons in under warrenty
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:59 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamGoy View Post
going through the same problem myself... just cracked ringland on piston #4 now the dealership is telling me the oil THEY have been putting in is failing... they recommend forge pistons
Dealership recommended forged pistons?
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:59 PM   #89
CriticalityEvent
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Just to update, they had to replace my engine harness because of a bad connection. They think that's what was causing the misfires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bicycle_wreck View Post

What part of the wiring harness? The main plug on the passenger side near the strut tower? Can you post a copy of your work order? We have a guy in our local club who is having misfires and the local dealership is still troubleshooting. Thanks!
Here's my work order:

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?p=3171210
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:48 AM   #90
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I know this may seem strang but here at my subaru dealer we have found that clogged evaporation canisters have been cough misfires n roughness.....often the culprit, ......spiders o_0
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:49 AM   #91
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Causing* #spellcheckfail
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Old 12-04-2013, 12:07 PM   #92
CriticalityEvent
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Originally Posted by Wills03rexwagon View Post
I know this may seem strang but here at my subaru dealer we have found that clogged evaporation canisters have been cough misfires n roughness.....often the culprit, ......spiders o_0
Well, I was about to look up how to check evaporation canisters until I saw "spiders"; now I'm just thinking about how to torch the car and start from scratch if the CEL light comes back.
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:13 PM   #93
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Lol...yeah u be suprised how often it happens
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:48 PM   #94
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LAN oil flush involves 2 oil changes and a Subaru branded oil flush crankcase additive. So 110$ is fair. Use the oil they tell you. You can buy it by the quart at your local dealer.
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