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Old 08-21-2013, 05:39 PM   #1
russian777
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Default Rear Diff cooler?

Want to have a rear diff cooler made.

Any suggestions as to how to go about this?

I figured using a pump and a universal cooler should work. Would love some input.
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:45 PM   #2
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only one i've ever seen used a bilge pump and a typical 10 row or whatever cooler like any oil cooler uses. not hard to splice it into the 12v at all. the hard part would be getting fittings to go in the diffs fill holes.
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:59 PM   #3
PARANOID56
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why not just go with one of the finned diff covers? what type of racing are you doing that needs the extra fluid and cooling?
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:40 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by PARANOID56 View Post
why not just go with one of the finned diff covers? what type of racing are you doing that needs the extra fluid and cooling?
auto cross and drag racing in the hot caribbean weather. The finned diff cover isnt sufficient
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:41 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
only one i've ever seen used a bilge pump and a typical 10 row or whatever cooler like any oil cooler uses. not hard to splice it into the 12v at all. the hard part would be getting fittings to go in the diffs fill holes.
yeap pretty much what i thought. I may do a mock setup on a busted diff before i do mine.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:50 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by russian777 View Post
yeap pretty much what i thought. I may do a mock setup on a busted diff before i do mine.
iirc perrin make a diff cover that increases its capacity AND has the fins for air cooling. unless you're doing enduro racing i would imagine that would be worth a try first. much simpler solution, though wiring a bilge pump into the 12v uses a sum total of two wires and a flippable switch

autox and drag racing are all done & dusted in a manner of seconds. you shouldn't need to do anything at all RE: heat there.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:37 PM   #7
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3/4 npt on the diff cover, then -10 to a mocal pump, to cooler then back to the top diff port. Might also want to run the top diff vent to a hose with a small catch can on it.
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:55 AM   #8
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i still don't understand how you can overheat a diff in the 10 seconds of drag racing or 30 seconds of autox you do. something else is wrong IMO.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scby rex View Post
3/4 npt on the diff cover, then -10 to a mocal pump, to cooler then back to the top diff port. Might also want to run the top diff vent to a hose with a small catch can on it.

This is what I do for my hill climb car works great.

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Old 08-22-2013, 08:55 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
i still don't understand how you can overheat a diff in the 10 seconds of drag racing or 30 seconds of autox you do. something else is wrong IMO.
I overheat my diff drag racing. I have been thinking of ways to cool it down.
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Old 08-22-2013, 03:55 PM   #11
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i dont see how you guys are overheating diffs unless your low on fluid or something in a drag race........ i see road race stis that dont even use them. some do dont get me wrong but the ones in my class in ttb do not run one.

anyways you can run a oil cooler style core with a pump to circulate the fluid throug. that to me is the best way. like above weld some fittings on and run your lines.
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:04 AM   #12
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i still don't understand how you can overheat a diff in the 10 seconds of drag racing or 30 seconds of autox you do. something else is wrong IMO.
Car is also daily driven in the heat.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:06 AM   #13
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I think you are way over thinking this. have you taken a temp reading of your diff? there is no way you are overheating it. even if you drive in the heat.
hell i drove 48 straight hours from los angeles to oklahoma and back in a single drive only stopping for gas driving through 100+ deg temps and never had an issue.

get a finned diff cover and thats all you need. if you want the cooler idea just for the coolness of it, then say so
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:14 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by PARANOID56 View Post
I think you are way over thinking this. have you taken a temp reading of your diff? there is no way you are overheating it. even if you drive in the heat.
hell i drove 48 straight hours from los angeles to oklahoma and back in a single drive only stopping for gas driving through 100+ deg temps and never had an issue.

get a finned diff cover and thats all you need. if you want the cooler idea just for the coolness of it, then say so
I have this lsd in the rear diff
http://www.rallispec.com/dif_cls_sti.html

After some spirited driving it begins to lock up around corners causing the back to start coming out. Also gives some torque bind when doing slow turning movements after heating up.

I highly doubt you know how hot it really is out here in Jamaica and Trinidad
so heat is always an issue.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:46 AM   #15
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Thanks to everyone for their additions, will post a pic when its done
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:40 AM   #16
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also check ebay.co.uk. Prodrive made external coolers available at one time and many setups with quality braided hoses and the cooler come up, on the cheap side.

Last edited by Vlad; 08-24-2013 at 07:50 AM.
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
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also check ebay.co.uk. Prodrive made external coolers available at one time and many setups with quality braided hoses and the cooler come up, on the cheap side.
will do bro thanks
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russian777 View Post
Car is also daily driven in the heat.
and i daily drove mine in 40+ degree heat too, and on highways nonetheless.

diff's don't just overheat on a whim. something else is wrong.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:21 AM   #19
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Try this install a temp gauge and then see how hot the rear end is getting
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:37 AM   #20
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yep, I have not been able to find anybody that posted on this board about having a legitimate rear diff temp light come on.
I retrofitted my R160 with the R180 sensor, to match the Sti dashboard and was thinking that maybe the R160 gets hotter with higher levels of power.
There was a brief time in '04-05 where people were getting the light on, on factory Sti, but there was a grounding problem with the temp sensor, which Subaru fixed in the next year, by redesigning the grounding on that.
The faulty ground was turning the light on.
As it is, the factory sensor in the R180 is set to turn on at a very high temp, suggesting that Subaru thinks the R180 will be fine running really hot.
This may not be the case with the R160 with the visco though.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russian777 View Post

I have this lsd in the rear diff
http://www.rallispec.com/dif_cls_sti.html

After some spirited driving it begins to lock up around corners causing the back to start coming out. Also gives some torque bind when doing slow turning movements after heating up.

I highly doubt you know how hot it really is out here in Jamaica and Trinidad
so heat is always an issue.
You sure it is not just an incorrectly setup clutch pack and/or preload, or even a worn unit?

Even race cars in Arizona and Nevada are not putting in diff coolers, and their temps get hotter than your tropical paradise.
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:11 AM   #22
russian777
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Originally Posted by mitch808 View Post
You sure it is not just an incorrectly setup clutch pack and/or preload, or even a worn unit?

Even race cars in Arizona and Nevada are not putting in diff coolers, and their temps get hotter than your tropical paradise.
Consulted a fellow racer with a the exact same lsd , apparently these models lock up with even slight temperature increase from spirited driving, causing the torque bind etc.

the temperature sensor is also a good idea
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:24 AM   #23
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:43 PM   #24
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this is why nasoic rocks
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Old 09-01-2013, 07:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russian777 View Post
Consulted a fellow racer with a the exact same lsd , apparently these models lock up with even slight temperature increase from spirited driving, causing the torque bind etc.

the temperature sensor is also a good idea
I was going to mention that perhaps you can change the settings on your diff. Less clamp load perhaps?
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