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Old 08-30-2013, 08:00 PM   #501
kellygnsd
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Whether you detune the torque curve via timing or boost you're accomplishing the same thing aren't you? At least this way you still have the max torque on tap when you want it and when you have traction.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:05 PM   #502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
Whether you detune the torque curve via timing or boost you're accomplishing the same thing aren't you? At least this way you still have the max torque on tap when you want it and when you have traction.
I think it's more about being careful around the peak torque range no matter what gear your in but even more important in 4th and 5th with the bigger loads there. More progressive and a smoother build of torque vs. the spike and fall type curve that breaks ****!

If you can control it, torque/ gear then use more timing in lower gears where you have less load. You're going to make more boost in the bigger gears because of the load!
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:12 AM   #503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
Whether you detune the torque curve via timing or boost you're accomplishing the same thing aren't you? At least this way you still have the max torque on tap when you want it and when you have traction.
Don't get me wrong I agree that is the way it's done. I've seen the big boys setups and they almost always have the boost setup like you mentioned.

I would like to play with Juans type of low torque tune because it may be a good way to extend the life of certain parts. Transmission, Clutch and Axles are just a few of the parts that I think would appreciate the lower torque approach. I've got plenty of torque to spare at this point in the game. It's not like we are playing with tdo4's anymore

Plus I tune it myself so it won't cost me anything but a little bit of time to do it.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:44 AM   #504
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Yeah that's true that does work well.

But I'm talking about keeping boost up and using a lower torque tune to establish traction and let those ponies run (whp) from there. Juan seems to be having fun with it. Possibly could help keep parts from breaking too thats always a good thing. I guess I will see what Juan's car does at the track for 60' ft to get a better estimate.

Juan when is it hitting the track?
I don't know, I just don't feel like breaking something. If some of the locals decide to go to the track I will take my car.
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:32 PM   #505
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Pooooosay?
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:08 PM   #506
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I wouldn't take that from Nuke I'd go out and break my car if I was you Juan! That'd show him!

Last edited by manitou; 09-02-2013 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:31 AM   #507
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I wouldn't take that from Nuke I'd go out and break my car if I was you Juan! That'd show him!

Yeah, show me bro!
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:34 AM   #508
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Yeah, show me bro!
Ok dude, Juan probably won't let me use his car so I'll use yours!
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:19 PM   #509
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I haven't gotten my car weigh in a while. Since the last time I had added, FMIC, STi 6 speed, and the 6466 rotated turbo kit.




So about 3000-3010lbs with me in it.
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Old 10-05-2013, 02:08 PM   #510
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thats not bad juan,with me in my car I am at 3370-3380.
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:23 PM   #511
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I haven't gotten my car weigh in a while. Since the last time I had added, FMIC, STi 6 speed, and the 6466 rotated turbo kit. So about 3000-3010lbs with me in it.
Damn Juan thats good!

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thats not bad juan,with me in my car I am at 3370-3380.
I'm afraid to weigh my Forester
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:40 PM   #512
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Juan very nice!

So what all do you have done for weight reduction again?
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:54 PM   #513
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Wow 2860 lbs that's awesome!
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:07 PM   #514
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So about 3000-3010lbs with me in it.
So that 10 lbs. Does that depend how you're eating?
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:10 PM   #515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john 1badSTI View Post
thats not bad juan,with me in my car I am at 3370-3380.
Thanks John. The car is full interior, with air bag, stereo and AC.

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Originally Posted by mt.racer View Post
Wow 2860 lbs that's awesome!
Thanks

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Originally Posted by TDagen View Post
Juan very nice!

So what all do you have done for weight reduction again?
Crash beams and the U-brace is gone, the other weight comes from lightweight parts. Oh an the 2860lbs is with a little more than half a tank of gas.

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So that 10 lbs. Does that depend how you're eating?
Haha no I had a bunch of stuff in my car, some tools and my laptop..

I only have a racing seat on the passenger side, I need to install the driver side seat and maybe get another lithium battery that will save me around 30lbs.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:45 PM   #516
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I bought some heads to build a spare long block and they were not as described...

They are D25 heads; the journals look great but the cam caps not so much. The stock cams also have some deep scratches.






The heads came with the front cam cap not attached. When I set the cam cap on the head it sits flush and nice. I tried bolting the cam cap down and front fastener went nice and easy but when I tried bolting the rear bolts they didn't thread. Then I noticed that the holes for the rear bolts on the cam cap are not concentric to the tapped holes on the head... WTF. It seems like the cam caps is twisted or something. Is been a long day, am I missing something here? I also only got one head so far.....




Any idea of how much it will cost me polish the cam caps? how about if they need to be line honed?
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:42 AM   #517
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polishing should be cheap 75-200 but line hones arnt...250++

you can't return the head?
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:48 AM   #518
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Are they mismatched cam caps? Good questions on the polish and hone but then you have to deal with the oversize cam journals after a line hone?
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:50 AM   #519
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I hope you used paypal. You should be able to return them if they were not as described.
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Old 10-13-2013, 03:21 PM   #520
Irv Weissmanhowerton
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I did the same thing awhile back, buying a pretty good condition ej255 shortblock, and some ej257 heads used as well, upon receiving them, dis-assembling, & just doing more reasearch into failures, I realized the journals weren't in very good shape,

I cleaned it all up after taking everything apart, learned alot about how things work in there & go together, then just sold it for same cost as I bought, My primary longblock is all puss. & I dont want even a prob good enough longblock as a spare. waste of time, money & effort. Maybe down the line Ill do the same thing all the way through, but those journals being resurfaced or taken down, I wouldnt trust that, things get pretty complicated with different sized bearings and all that precise-ness

When I wanted a fairly stock setup for the spare, I wish I could have gotten complete oem subaru heads, they stopped selling them together just before I looked into, now oem just sells the heads as seperate parts

Right now, I do NOT trust pretty much any builders, any machinists doing bores/hones, or especially valve jobs, man I wish my car was stock longblock reliability, had max 30r power for so long, since.. Ive gone through several "built" motors, money down the drain, my labor of pulling/installing like 4-5 times, headaches and heartaches, thinking about wanting to give up almost every big issue Ive had, still working stuff out til this day, might have to run no avcs if I cant figure it out, on a 30r, thats a no go, if thats the case & I give up troubleshooting fixing the avcs, Ill have to get a bigger turbo so the lag doesnt matter as much, steering towards drag at that point,

Last edited by Irv Weissmanhowerton; 10-13-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:05 PM   #521
juanmedina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
polishing should be cheap 75-200 but line hones arnt...250++

you can't return the head?
Yeah it seems that I am going to get a refund

Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
Are they mismatched cam caps? Good questions on the polish and hone but then you have to deal with the oversize cam journals after a line hone?
Yeah the caps maybe mismatched

Quote:
Originally Posted by 207STi View Post
I hope you used paypal. You should be able to return them if they were not as described.
I used paypal. I contacted the seller and it seems that he is going to refund me the money. Will see if he does.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Irv Weissmanhowerton View Post
I did the same thing awhile back, buying a pretty good condition ej255 shortblock, and some ej257 heads used as well, upon receiving them, dis-assembling, & just doing more reasearch into failures, I realized the journals weren't in very good shape,

I cleaned it all up after taking everything apart, learned alot about how things work in there & go together, then just sold it for same cost as I bought, My primary longblock is all puss. & I dont want even a prob good enough longblock as a spare. waste of time, money & effort. Maybe down the line Ill do the same thing all the way through, but those journals being resurfaced or taken down, I wouldnt trust that, things get pretty complicated with different sized bearings and all that precise-ness

When I wanted a fairly stock setup for the spare, I wish I could have gotten complete oem subaru heads, they stopped selling them together just before I looked into, now oem just sells the heads as seperate parts

Right now, I do NOT trust pretty much any builders, any machinists doing bores/hones, or especially valve jobs, man I wish my car was stock longblock reliability, had max 30r power for so long, since.. Ive gone through several "built" motors, money down the drain, my labor of pulling/installing like 4-5 times, headaches and heartaches, thinking about wanting to give up almost every big issue Ive had, still working stuff out til this day, might have to run no avcs if I cant figure it out, on a 30r, thats a no go, if thats the case & I give up troubleshooting fixing the avcs, Ill have to get a bigger turbo so the lag doesnt matter as much, steering towards drag at that point,
I couldn't agree more. I don't trust anyone with my car, I rather do everything myself.... I actually only trust Phatron with tuning . Also Dom is very knowledgeable and asked him if he could build my next block. I told him that I would ship to him all brand new internals and he will source the machining and do the assembly. But he said no and that he will only build me a shortblock if I get everything through him. I understand that he might make a little more money but I would think that he makes most of his money on the labor. Also from the recent thread on the built motor section it seems that if my part or his part fail I would be on my own .

So far I been really lucky with my motors. The stock motor cracked a ring land because I got too greedy , the same motor with drop in pistons lasted 25k miles and then a valve burned, and now I am on my crystal built motor with only 5k miles. Same case and crank and all the motors. Transmissions have a different story .

Now that I think about maybe a stock shortblock is the best choice for under 500-550whp. Look at CJ I don't know how many miles he has but he beats the crap out of that car. Then when the pistons crack just drop in some pistons and push it to 600whp with a low torque tune like I am doing right now. Hopefully it will last another 30k miles while keeping the rods happy.

$1800 brand new OEM short block + $500 forged piston= $2300 for 60-80k miles at least of fun Win Win.

Last edited by juanmedina; 10-13-2013 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:45 PM   #522
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Well.... the rods finally let go
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:51 PM   #523
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Well.... the rods finally let go
Damn.
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:09 PM   #524
manitou
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Well.... the rods finally let go
You didn't window the block, did you?
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:50 AM   #525
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You didn't window the block, did you?
Yeah...I did
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