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Old 09-07-2013, 03:12 PM   #1
grex07
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Default GR Whiteline rear subframe BUSHINGS w/ video

I wanted to do a good writeup and show an easier way of removing and replacing the rear subframe bushings. My buddy suggested this method as he used to be a GM mechanic and assured it could be done easily. My hope was to make this a sticky so more people feel comfortable doing this. I was really reluctant to do this until my buddy offered to assist. I do not regret this at all. It is well worth it.

I purchased the bushings as open box off ebay. I did this at the hobby shop at NAS Jacksonville, FL. I know most people dont have access to a lift but this could be done on jack stands as well. The only specialty tools required is an air hammer and torque wrench. I purchased my air hammer and bits at home depot. The hobby shop had air so I did not need to purchase a compressor. The torque wrench was supplied by the hobby shop as well. All other tools are basic hand tools that every mechanic should have.





First I removed the rear subframe in accordance with the subaru manual, this can be purchased on ebay for $9.95 as a download and it also includes the body repair manual. This took under an hour.





Then I started going at the bushings with the air hammer with a chisel tip. The key to this is to push in the top of the bushing and then wedge the chisel in between the bushing and subframe. You need to keep the angle right or youll just push through the bushing and get the chisel stuck. Once the chisel tip makes its way through it will catch the bottom lip of the bushing and push it out. I did have a little scoring of the subframe but the maximum depth was maybe 1/64 of an inch. If the chisel tip is too wide then you wont be able to push through, a narrower tip might work better, mine was 3/4 inch wide. Then i took a file to the burrs to smooth them out. Total time to remove bushings was about 30 minutes.





AUDIO IS LOUD! TURN DOWN YOUR SPEAKERS!

Once those are out, grease the new bushings, install, then reinstall subframe.

Total time out of my day was 5hrs. But I had to run to homedepot to get the air hammer and bits cause the hobby shop's wasnt working. Homedepot was our last stop after NAPA, Oreilly, Advance Autoparts, Autozone and Sears. Then we stopped for lunch. So total labor time was under 4hrs.

Please follow the subaru manual and torque everything properly. I take no responsibly in anyone screwing up their car.



Dan
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Last edited by grex07; 09-07-2013 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 09-08-2013, 02:26 AM   #2
dead_eye
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Any noticeable improvement from the new bushings?
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:05 AM   #3
grex07
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there is definitely an improvement. the rear end is alot tighter and gives you more confidence in corners. nvh is increased especially at high rpm but it does not bother me. it is well worth it. i would do these bushings along with others before springs, sway bars, or coilovers. then you will be able to get a better feel for what you want/need.
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:48 AM   #4
JAMM0N
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great write up.

instead of chiseling it out you could've bush press those out and press the new ones in. although the metal ring to the bushing always gets stuck and you have to hammer those out but after that its not that bad.

should've done more bushings while you got the subframe off!
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:06 AM   #5
grex07
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I couldnt fit the subframe in the press. The new ones didnt need pressed in, just grease and a mallet. I wanted to do more bushings but i dont know what suspension components i want yet. Ill do the diff bushings when i flush it.
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:23 PM   #6
gsrcrxsi
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I did this same thing.

though i burned out the center of the bushing first and used a sawzall to cut through the outer ring. then used an air hammer/chisel to finish them up. i wanted to avoid the huge gouges like you had. but i still ended up causing some marks.

one thing about pressing the bushings out. it cant be done without the right size press and the proper tools. like you mentioned, you had issues getting the subframe onto the press. i had access to a huge press and still had issues. plus you'd need like 2-3 people to hold the thing while you try to press it out.

on top of that, these are not just straight bushings. the edges on the bottom side curve over the ring they are pressed into, making it almost impossible to support the ring while you press the bushing out.

the bushing is like this:

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Old 09-11-2013, 03:36 PM   #7
grex07
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gsrcrxsi: i read your write up and wanted to avoid the cuts that were made with the sawzall thats why i tried this way. kind of ironic i still ended up with some. the deepest gouges i had are the ones in the video and like i said they were maybe 1/64th inch deep. my reaction in the video just made them sound deeper because i wanted to avoid them all together. i guess unless they are pressed out, which i would like to see done, there are going to be cuts/gouges.

also maybe if a narrower chisel tip is used on the air hammer it might not leave cuts/gouges.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:05 AM   #8
JAMM0N
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nothing fits the bushings diameter! its a pain in the ass. i thought about using a washer.... or maybe it could be a bad idea but using the newer bushing to press it out?

just listing ideas cause doing these are a pain.
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:37 AM   #9
gsrcrxsi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMM0N View Post
nothing fits the bushings diameter! its a pain in the ass. i thought about using a washer.... or maybe it could be a bad idea but using the newer bushing to press it out?

just listing ideas cause doing these are a pain.
Read my post again. The problem isn't pressing the bushing. The problem is supporting the subframe while you do it. Due to the shape of the bushing.
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Old 09-13-2013, 02:49 PM   #10
JAMM0N
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No i get that you couldnt fit it on the bench.

Did you have to take the whole subframe out or could you have just taken out the subframe?

Bushing presses benches should supply cut outs to press out bushings instead of those heavy plates
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Old 09-13-2013, 03:43 PM   #11
gsrcrxsi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMM0N View Post
No i get that you couldnt fit it on the bench.

Did you have to take the whole subframe out or could you have just taken out the subframe?

Bushing presses benches should supply cut outs to press out bushings instead of those heavy plates
I'm not sure if English is a second language to you or what, but try your post again. It makes no sense and I can't decipher what you're trying to say.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:45 PM   #12
JAMM0N
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I get that you couldnt put the whole subframe w the hubs on the bushing press hence cutting it out and chiseling.

Second thing is... is there an easier way to push out bushings w the metal sleeves out w/o having to hacksaw and chisel out the metal sleeve.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:57 PM   #13
gsrcrxsi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMM0N View Post
I get that you couldnt put the whole subframe w the hubs on the bushing press hence cutting it out and chiseling.
I ripped everything apart down to the bare subframe. But it doesn't matter. There was still no way to really support the subframe to press it out. Like. I. Said...

Quote:
Second thing is... is there an easier way to push out bushings w the metal sleeves out w/o having to hacksaw and chisel out the metal sleeve.
You either find a way to support the subframe and press it. Or you cut/burn/chisel/hammer/scream/cry.

There is no third option.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:00 PM   #14
B2FiNiTY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMM0N View Post
Did you have to take the whole subframe out or could you have just taken out the subframe?
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