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Old 09-10-2013, 03:08 PM   #1
naCAnItihS
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2002 WRX STI Wagon
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Default Help me setup up my suspension!

Ok so I am kinda new to dialing in a suspension setup.

2002 WRX Wagon w/ 06 Sedan front end
Car makes in the range of 280-300 AWHP

Here is what I have on the car:

ISC Suspension N1 Street coilovers w/ F&R camber plates and 8k Springs F&R
Whiteline Front Sway bar w/ matching end links (I think it is a 22mm)
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar w/ matching end links (I think it is a 24mm)
SPT Front Strut Tower Brace
Tein Rear Strut Tower Brace
Group-N Motor and Trans Mounts
Group-N 4-Pot Front and 2-Pot Rear Brakes (06/07 Brakes)
Group-N DBA-5000 Slotted Rotors
JDM STI Version 6 Type-RA Gear set in Trans (quick ratio gears)

What I have/on order not on the car:

Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
Rear Subframe Lock Down Bolts
2002 Sedan Front Control Arms
Forester Transverse Links (Essentially an OEM ALK, see image below)



I am also debating on upgrading my coilover springs to Swifts. I am unsure on what spring rates to go with. Not sure if I should stay with the 8/8 or go with an 8/7 or 8/9? (F/R)

This car is NOT a DD. I uses as a weekend warrior/short trips around town when I want to have fun. I also want to get into auto-x/road course next season and am trying to determine the best setup. I will also occasionally hit the drag strip.

I will be running my 17x8 et48 Rota boosts for any auto-x/track days w/ some kind of 235/40/17.

What would a good starting point be for the alignment specs? Camber, toe, caster, etc?

I want it to handle corners well with good turn in and reduce understeer as much as possible.

Any suggestions on setup are welcome.

and please if your comment is not going to be constructive please refrain from commenting. Thanks
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Old 09-10-2013, 05:45 PM   #2
isotopesope
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in terms of competing, you may have put the cart before the horse. in my humble opinion, it is best to modify your car to the rules of the sanctioning body and race class you want to compete in... unless you solely are out for fun or doing HPDE's and don't care if a mod puts you into a class where your car is not fully prepared and thus you are not competitive.

when i competed in autox in my old civic, i modified it around the rules to keep me in sts. had i swapped in that dreamy b series motor, i'd be in a way advanced class with cars truly purpose built for it and i would've been destroyed, aside from my mediocre driving skills.

even if you had that magical "best" setup possible for whichever competition avenue you are focusing on, tightening the nut behind the wheel is the best thing you can do. get the car out there, and then see why it needs x or y parts. don't just throw parts at it willy nilly without knowing if you can or should have that part.

just my .02 cents. your suspension sounds like a pretty sweet setup though. good luck.
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Old 09-10-2013, 06:00 PM   #3
SW21MR2
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"Best" is very subjective and, really, only you're going to know what's best for you. We can all throw out fantastic suggestions like the post above which I also agree with.

If you actually plan on competing, use the rules as a guideline and make sure the mods conform to those rules.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:39 AM   #4
naCAnItihS
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Thanks for your responses. I am not looking for the best or final answer to my suspension setup. I just want to have a good starting point. I dont really have much knowledge yet on appropriate alignment settings. I have never requested any form of performance setup just factory alignments. Currently I have no idea what my settings are and they are def off from factory (camber anyway). I havent had the car aligned since installing these coilovers (this car had some crap Tein basics before).

As for any track time, eventually, yes I would like to actually compete. However I feel starting off I just want to go out there and have some fun and basically compete against myself.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:49 AM   #5
jaboyd
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Had similar mods on my 05 STI. I ran -1.9 frt and -1.4 rr camber on the street (zero toe). For autox starting at -2.2 frt, -1.8 rr will get you in the ballpark.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:24 AM   #6
rexworx
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Sorry to get off topic but does anyone one how much added caster you get from swapping to a forester style rear transverse link? I have a set laying around and my use them for my press-in bushings instead of the impreza based rear transverse link.

Thanks,
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:44 AM   #7
Turn in Concepts
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You won't get any more caster if the bushing hole is in the same place as stock. You need to move the ball joint forward to gain caster which comes when you put the hole in the bushings towards the outside (assuming you have an offset bushing).
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:04 AM   #8
rexworx
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Thank you Thats actually what I was thinking. My bad for the wrong question. what will you gain from the rear mounting point being lowered by using the forester based housing vs the impreza based housing?

Thanks,
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:28 PM   #9
naCAnItihS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexworx View Post
Sorry to get off topic but does anyone one how much added caster you get from swapping to a forester style rear transverse link? I have a set laying around and my use them for my press-in bushings instead of the impreza based rear transverse link.

Thanks,
Not off topic. I wanted to use the Foz link as well so adds to the thread actually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
You won't get any more caster if the bushing hole is in the same place as stock. You need to move the ball joint forward to gain caster which comes when you put the hole in the bushings towards the outside (assuming you have an offset bushing).
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexworx View Post
Thank you Thats actually what I was thinking. My bad for the wrong question. what will you gain from the rear mounting point being lowered by using the forester based housing vs the impreza based housing?

Thanks,
Well the Foz transverse link moves the rear section of the control arm down just like the whiteline etc adding caster. The offset bushing will add more.

Foz and Whiteline


Whiteline and WRX


Am I wrong here?
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:54 PM   #10
rexworx
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Default

Well no not caster but the housing helps with lifting "anti-lift", and diving. from my quick search.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:51 AM   #11
naCAnItihS
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MBP

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Any one else have any input?
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:43 PM   #12
mhoerath
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replace as many bushings as you can stand: lateral links, trailing arms, front control arm front, shifter. Good step to replace trans and motor mounts.

Suppose no need to replace the outrigger rears due to your subframe lockdowns. Maybe the rear diff bushings? And since you have camber plates no need to upgrade to group n tophats.

Another popular and cheap mod is aluminum front control arms. WRX oem control arms are suspect - mine broke at a weld! I did replace my front control arm bush, but he original was very robust but since the job was started had to swap.

You may already know but there's a "post your wagon suspension set-ups" thread for ideas. Mine's a dd and rallycross where traction is important, FYI info on my car and mods
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...5#post40255445
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