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Old 07-30-2013, 02:56 PM   #801
P3Auto
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AWD Dyno, Mods, etc

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I went out today and checked out an 07 sti limited we have with one of our tunes on it. There seems to be some hang but its not terrible. I notice a difference depending on clutch switch and neutral switch position so this means the ECU is making some decisions on what to do depending on inputs. There are some ways to mess around with this a little and you can look at "drive by wire" tables.

If you would like to send me your tune I can take a quick look at it as long as its not a locked tune. email seth@p3auto.com

Besides that I suggest you consult who ever tuned these cars and see about making some changes. As always your problems may still be mechanical, logging, boost leak checks, etc should be done.


Seth
P3 Import Autowerks
907.355.6655


Quote:
Originally Posted by russianphil18 View Post
I think that if I had a stock clutch and a stock shifter then I think it would be normal timing. But because I have a short shifter and an almost racing clutch I can shift faster but it seems that my engine doesn't want to let me do it that fast. So I think the hang isn't noticeable when stock. Do others with similar setups notice this?

Thanks
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:44 PM   #802
Matter3
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I'm a little embarrassed by this but recently I shifted wrong in my 2004 STI on the highway. Went from 4th to 3rd instead of 5th. I red lined for about half a second and made the correction. However my CEL came on along with the cruise flashing. I didn't notice anything differnt engine noise, power, or anything else immediately so I continued on and went where I was going. Later on that night the CEL went off and everything was normal. On Sunday the light came back on. I hooked up my access port today and looked up the codes. I know more than the average Joe about cars and engines but I'm no expert.

Error codes:
P0103
P1518
P0852
P1153
P1152
P0137
P0502
P0503

The engine was rebuilt bewfore I bought it at 68,000 mi currently sitting at 72,000. These are the notes form the shop that rebuilt the engine.


Cylinder #4 had a hole in piston from detonation, sent block to machine shop for pre-bore to ensure block is still usable, block checked ok, block was bored for custom cp pistons, head inspected okay, resurfaced both heads to ensure good head gasket seal, assembled short block and found that center head stud hole would not hold torque, sent block back to machine shop to have repaired, machine shop built custom chromoly insert to repair block, performed oil passage race porting including new oil pump, completed motor assembly, cleaned/inspected all parts before re-installation, some hoses and misc components should be upgraded when/if turbo and inter-cooler upgrades are made. After motor install, attempted to upload ECU tune to verify, during upload access-port attempted to update dongle, communication was no longer available with ECU and ECU would not go into test mode, sent ECU and access-port to COBB for inspection and repair, purchased and replaced ECU, wrote base file for motor breakin, test drove okay.



I'm scheduled to take it into the shop next week but If I can save some time or money I would love the help. I apologize for the wall of text. If you need any more info let me know.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:07 PM   #803
P3Auto
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AWD Dyno, Mods, etc

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There are a lot of codes here that sound like its leading up to a ground fault or some sort of electrical issue at the very least. I would suggest clearing the codes first then seeing what comes back after a full reset. I would personally start checking wiring harnesses and ground connections around the engine bay. Look for wires not connected and or loose connections.

Oh make sure the battery cables are tight.

I'm not sure how a lot of these codes could be related to what you did, in fact I'm sure they are not. Its possible that the sudden jerk of the wrong gear could have shifted something electrically.

As always start with the basics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matter3 View Post
I'm a little embarrassed by this but recently I shifted wrong in my 2004 STI on the highway. Went from 4th to 3rd instead of 5th. I red lined for about half a second and made the correction. However my CEL came on along with the cruise flashing. I didn't notice anything differnt engine noise, power, or anything else immediately so I continued on and went where I was going. Later on that night the CEL went off and everything was normal. On Sunday the light came back on. I hooked up my access port today and looked up the codes. I know more than the average Joe about cars and engines but I'm no expert.

Error codes:
P0103
P1518
P0852
P1153
P1152
P0137
P0502
P0503

The engine was rebuilt bewfore I bought it at 68,000 mi currently sitting at 72,000. These are the notes form the shop that rebuilt the engine.


Cylinder #4 had a hole in piston from detonation, sent block to machine shop for pre-bore to ensure block is still usable, block checked ok, block was bored for custom cp pistons, head inspected okay, resurfaced both heads to ensure good head gasket seal, assembled short block and found that center head stud hole would not hold torque, sent block back to machine shop to have repaired, machine shop built custom chromoly insert to repair block, performed oil passage race porting including new oil pump, completed motor assembly, cleaned/inspected all parts before re-installation, some hoses and misc components should be upgraded when/if turbo and inter-cooler upgrades are made. After motor install, attempted to upload ECU tune to verify, during upload access-port attempted to update dongle, communication was no longer available with ECU and ECU would not go into test mode, sent ECU and access-port to COBB for inspection and repair, purchased and replaced ECU, wrote base file for motor breakin, test drove okay.



I'm scheduled to take it into the shop next week but If I can save some time or money I would love the help. I apologize for the wall of text. If you need any more info let me know.
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:03 PM   #804
Wrxak02
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Alright, so, I've been having a rough idle the last few days(since it's been raining) figured my MAF or filter was being touchy. Rough idle meaning slightly shaky and revving at stoplights an additional 500 or so for like 30 seconds. Finally had time time today to clean everything, an after cleaning the filter(conical) and the MAF with electronics cleaner, let everything dry, reinstalled. It bogs down like it wants to stall the entire time it idles now. I unplugge the Neg and the ECU plug during this to allow it to reset if needed. All plugs are back in. Other facts, it started smoking white, right from the get-go on cold start from the manifold/turbo location. Car smells like it's running VERY rich. I was going to check plugs and packs, but I wouldnt think that would be an issue as the car was sitting since Friday before I did this, and it hasn't done this before. Ideas?
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:07 AM   #805
T_woot
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Stage 3 upgrade q's. Thinking about pushing my 2006 wrx from stage 2 to stage 3, upgraded turbo and supporting mods. I don't want to blow my trans but want good kick and good bang for the buck. What turbos should I be looking into and why? 16g vs 18g? Affordability. Basics hwlp as I dont have time to read the manifesto in its entirety. Thanks!
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:36 AM   #806
exogen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_woot View Post
Stage 3 upgrade q's. Thinking about pushing my 2006 wrx from stage 2 to stage 3, upgraded turbo and supporting mods. I don't want to blow my trans but want good kick and good bang for the buck. What turbos should I be looking into and why? 16g vs 18g? Affordability. Basics hwlp as I dont have time to read the manifesto in its entirety. Thanks!
I don't know the answer but these links may help.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1141476

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1084275
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:59 PM   #807
Matter3
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2004 STi

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Thank you for the input I'll look for what I can. I reset the ECU and it's been fine since however the exhaust has sounded slightly different. Electrical issues doesn't seem too far off being that my radio also having some.
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Old 08-31-2013, 05:03 PM   #808
FourWeeks
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Just started running Cobb stage 2 on my 04 wrx. Target boost is stated to be 16psi but the most I've logged is 13.3 after several pulls. Should I go ahead and run stage 2 with higher wastegate function? I consistently run 12psi on WOT.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:39 PM   #809
P3Auto
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The first thing you should do is check for mechanical problems that can cause boost to be low. Look at all of the hoses around the turbo, intercooler, and intake manifold. Check to be sure the clamps are tight and the hoses are on straight. Note any wet oil like spots around hoses as this can be a sign of a leak. Ultimately you should attempt to pressure test the whole system or bring it out to our shop for a leak test.

There are a few other reasons such as, turbo is worn or damaged, waste gate is leaking or worn, exhaust system is blocked, up pipe to turbo is blocked or coming apart, boost control solenoid is blocked or malfunctioning, etc.

If you feel like things are sound with the car you can always try the higher waste gate limit map and see if that helps. Typically we don't see that map as required on most cars that are mechanically sound. Depending on what is causing it to run lower tuning around the problem may or may not be ok.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655

Quote:
Originally Posted by FourWeeks View Post
Just started running Cobb stage 2 on my 04 wrx. Target boost is stated to be 16psi but the most I've logged is 13.3 after several pulls. Should I go ahead and run stage 2 with higher wastegate function? I consistently run 12psi on WOT.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:09 PM   #810
Ge1st
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Default Subaru Legacy 2.0 GT-B E-Tune II Touring Wagon Engine Swap

Hello,

This is my first post and I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to swap the engine out of a Subaru Legacy 2.0 GT-B E-Tune II Touring Wagon, into a 2001 Subaru Outback?

Thanks for viewing any and all information is very appreciated,

Sincerely,
Ge1st
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:14 PM   #811
P3Auto
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AWD Dyno, Mods, etc

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The short answer is yes, physically it will fit.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ge1st View Post
Hello,

This is my first post and I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to swap the engine out of a Subaru Legacy 2.0 GT-B E-Tune II Touring Wagon, into a 2001 Subaru Outback?

Thanks for viewing any and all information is very appreciated,

Sincerely,
Ge1st
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:34 AM   #812
Ge1st
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Default Decided to scrap the GT-B plan

Thanks for your information,

I've decided to scrap the idea due to the in ability to maintain or import the GT-B.

I've decided to go with a 04 Baja swap into a 04 Outback Limited. Do you know if the dash and almost everything would be interchange able on the both models?

Sincerely,
Ge!st
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:18 PM   #813
Subian
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The 2.0L that could

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I wonder if anyone has an idea of where a Blouch Dom 2.5r (non-xtr, green sized ball bearing) turbo would spool on a stock ej205 on 93 octane? (currently have a Deadbolt td05 7cm 20g and get full boost by 4,200 in 3rd roughly.

Last edited by Subian; 09-09-2013 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:48 PM   #814
breezeby
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RomRaided!!!! Oh Yeah!!

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Do much to read through on here
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:00 AM   #815
betzt
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Default

i'm sure you've already answered this question previously but this thread is huge. i'm about to go stage 2 on my 2011 Sti and am planning on a conservative protune as it's my DD and i'm worried about longevity of the car. would you recommend a EBCS to before the pro tune? also bigger injectors to be safe? i can't seem to find a definitive answer anywhere
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:24 AM   #816
P3Auto
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AWD Dyno, Mods, etc

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Typically a stage 2 tune involves the usual upgrades, downpipe, intake (maybe), additional exhaust work, etc. With the stock EBCS and injectors a proper tune can be safe without changing the mentioned items.

This sort of upgrade and tune is done by hundreds of people with these cars. The stage 2 tune depending on boost levels toward redline will push stock injectors well into the 90% usage range but only towards the end of the power band (redline). So injectors are not a bad idea. I would not call them required, this would really be up to the person tuning the car to advise you on this. Different factors such as octane and how rich or lean the tune is will make the difference in what the tuner may recommend.

As for the EBCS, I don't think anyone will tell you this is a bad upgrade but again not required with the stock turbo 99% of the time. The EBCS if it is a 3 port allows for plumbing the wastegate actuator in what is called interrupt style versus the stock bleed type configuration. With the upgraded EBCS your computer can be tuned to react faster and in some cases help with boost control when it comes to really dialing it in. Again this comes down to your tuners preference. I personally prefer tuning with a better EBCS and find its easier to get the results I want.

Hope this helps. I really cannot stress enough about the fact that if you do intend to get the car protuned your tuner should make the final recommendations. Unfortunately no Subaru motor especially a stock one is bulletproof and even stock STIs have experienced broken ring lands and spun bearings.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655

Quote:
Originally Posted by betzt View Post
i'm sure you've already answered this question previously but this thread is huge. i'm about to go stage 2 on my 2011 Sti and am planning on a conservative protune as it's my DD and i'm worried about longevity of the car. would you recommend a EBCS to before the pro tune? also bigger injectors to be safe? i can't seem to find a definitive answer anywhere
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:34 PM   #817
Akimpreza
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07 Impreza was NA
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What are your thoughts on a speed density tune vs a normal MAF? For daily driving around Alaska and the occasional track run. Sorry if this has been asked already.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:49 PM   #818
cosseywrx
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Maf is fine until putting out more power than the Maf is able to read. It maxxes at 300g/s.

Once i maxxed mine i switched to Speed Density. I love it!. 25lbs on my 18g plus i get 422miles to the tank.

Power and great gas mileage.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:51 PM   #819
T_woot
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WRX Blue

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosseywrx View Post
Maf is fine until putting out more power than the Maf is able to read. It maxxes at 300g/s.

Once i maxxed mine i switched to Speed Density. I love it!. 25lbs on my 18g plus i get 422miles to the tank.

Power and great gas mileage.
How does that work for smog?
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:02 AM   #820
Akimpreza
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I have read that if it is tuned right you can pass an I/M test, but I could be wrong about that.
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:09 AM   #821
T_woot
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Out in cali for now. Might be headed to oregon eventually. Sure would be nice...
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:19 AM   #822
cosseywrx
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No I/m in alaska. Plus i am able to plug a scanner to my car and it passes the I/m reading. I have zero cats as well. No rear O2 sensor.

Lots of mods but i wont register my car in a state that has I/M.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:49 AM   #823
907wagon
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Looking to get my front bumper to get painter it's the java black for 04 just go it from Subaru so it's ready to be painted I have a 2 quotes one for 250 and one for 700 I don't trust the first one to be a good job or not and the second one is just ridiculous for the price anyone have a idea about a where I should go for a good deal to get this done? PM me if so thanks
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Old 10-12-2013, 05:57 PM   #824
Scappy
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What can I do to up the power a little on a 95 Impreza 2.2 without spending a lot of money?
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Old 10-12-2013, 06:36 PM   #825
Nomadgene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scappy View Post
What can I do to up the power a little on a 95 Impreza 2.2 without spending a lot of money?
Probably, just sell it….you get what you pay for.

Beyond tuning it up and getting it running as best you can in stock fashion (ie. plugs, wires, filters replaced, etc.) ….a cold air intake, exhaust, and mild ECU tuning are only going to allow you to see mild gains. Those are the foundation of beginning any tuning process. Unless you can get those ultra cheap via used parts….you are already in the $1000 range.

Depending on what you are going to do with the car, better performance gains can be had from the handling department but you asked about upping the power.
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