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Old 10-02-2013, 04:37 PM   #326
jm020
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Member#: 353194
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Broomfield, CO
Vehicle:
2013 WRX Limited
ISM

Default

Thanks for the advice! I'd upload a pic so you could see it, but couldn't figure out how. Hopefully i'll have some "after" pics that look much better! How's beaufort?! Had a buddy in high school who had a house down there...fun place!
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Old 10-03-2013, 06:03 AM   #327
Brown Ops
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Member#: 291770
Join Date: Aug 2011
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Beaufort, South Carolina
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza WRX STI
Java & satin black

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I really like Beaufort though I'm currently in Afghanistan. I can't wait to go back.
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:05 AM   #328
SteveDeChello
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 376876
Join Date: Dec 2013
Default Re: Auto Body/Paint Question and Answers

Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
Supply List:
*1 quart body filler with activator (preferably rage gold or comparable product)
*Tube of glazing putty/"icing"
*Assortment of sand paper starting at 40 grit ranging to 400 (40,80,180,220,320,400)
*High build primer
*Sanding block
*DA sander (not necessary but will make job much easier)
*Filler Spreaders

Instructions:
I do not know if you have any prior knowledge when it comes to bodywork so I can only give you guidance and getting it "perfect" depends on the time you take and practice.

1. Were the welds ground flush? If so there is most likely some slight distortion in the metal. Try to get the metal as flush as possible prior to filling. Use a body hammer, or stud welder to do so. If the metal has any low spots that cannot be worked out, sand about a 5" diameter circle from the center of the welds to give you ample room to work. Sand with 80 grit on a DA. Any spot that you will be filling you want bare metal for the filler to adhere to. Do not heat the panel too much with the DA.

2. Mix the filler on a piece of sheet metal or cardboard. A good rule of thumb is put the amount of filler down, and then draw a line across the puddle with activator. Depending on conditions this could vary. Use a spreader to put down only as much filler that is needed over the holes. Let harden, and then begin to sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a block. Sand in a diagonal pattern // then \\ crisscrossing and creating an imaginary "X" over the work area. Do this until you level the filler with the surrounding metal. This will take some practice to get correct. A helpful trick is to apply a guide coat of black spray paint to see if there is any low spots or high spots in the filler.

3. Continue this process of applying filler and then smoothing, and after every coat go to a higher grade sandpaper. For such a small job like this you may only need one coat of filler before glaze. You could start with 180 grit depending on the condition of the metal after the welding.

4. Stop when you feel, with your hand, that the surface is level with the surrounding area and there is no bumps, or dimples. You will finish the filler with 400 grit before applying the glaze. Glaze is basically used to fill any fine scratches still left in the surrounding metal from sanding, or pin-holes that are in the filler. You will apply this extremely thin over the filler with a decent amount of pressure to fill any imperfections.

5. Let the glaze dry and sand with the same process as before, but not so much that you start to take off material from the filler below. You will see the glaze fill the scratches and pin-holes.

6. After this work you will get a good feel for sanding and should feather out the existing paint surrounding your area of repair. Use 400 to scuff existing paint.

7. Mask up for high build primer by back taping your work area and covering anything you do not wish to get primer on. Never apply primer to the edge of the tape or you will get a "hard edge".

8. Let primer dry and wet sand with 400/600 grit paper.

9. Send it to paint.

If you have any specific questions about this process (which I'm sure you will) just ask.

Where in NE are you located?

-Matt

Thanks a lot for your Guidance .They are really helpful in my work.I am owner of Marlow auto body shop.We offer a wide range of a offers wide range of auto body services including collision repair, car painting, body work, dent removal, hail repair, scratch removal, custom painting, etc. And i really appreciate these type of forums that help me in my work
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:21 PM   #329
mr.nicknasty8
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Member#: 244192
Join Date: Apr 2010
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Vermont
Vehicle:
2006 WRX
ARC FMIC

Default

Do all panels need to be blended in? I understand metallics need to, But do solids? I'm asking because my WRX is San Remo Red. I want to redo the bumper and maybe hood. I've painted some small items here and there and have experience with wet sanding and polishing. Also where is a good place to get color coded paint? Can I order some offline from the automotive touchup site? Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:37 PM   #330
braydeno
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Member#: 301547
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: St. George, Utah
Vehicle:
2006 Subaru STi
Aspen White

Default

Yes! you need to blend to get a good match. You will just need less blending space if it's not a metallic. Go to your local auto body supply store with your code and find your variant with chips. I suggest PPG's Deltron line or Auto Color for the best coverage and match.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:14 PM   #331
sciroccodotalex
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Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
WRB

Default

Can this be saved?

[url=http://s120.photobucket.com/user/sciroccodotalex/media/CAM00432_zps836b2be3.jpg.html][/

More importantly, can the roof be saved?





And what should i do to prevent fading from happening again and on the body?
Thanks.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:46 PM   #332
Jackie leggs
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Member#: 249794
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Huntington, WV
Vehicle:
02 WRX wagon
atomic orange pearl

Default

That needs a repaint. Once the clear starts to bleach and fade like that there isn't much you can do. A good up keep on waxing is a good preventative.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:56 PM   #333
sciroccodotalex
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Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
WRB

Default

So... i gotta do the whole roof again?
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:22 PM   #334
daveS12
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Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: North Jersey
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2009 2.5i impreza
red

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sciroccodotalex View Post
So... i gotta do the whole roof again?
Yes sir you do unfortunately
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:07 PM   #335
sciroccodotalex
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Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
WRB

Default

Awww ok..
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:25 PM   #336
Jackie leggs
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Member#: 249794
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Huntington, WV
Vehicle:
02 WRX wagon
atomic orange pearl

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sciroccodotalex View Post
So... i gotta do the whole roof again?
The color can be blended out but the whole roof needs re-cleared.
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:15 PM   #337
kolten493
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Member#: 222633
Join Date: Sep 2009
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Katy, TX
Vehicle:
02 WRX
caged 'n such

Default

in need of some assistance. i have been doing paint and body for about 6 years now and am no stranger to working with different substrates, however i am currently in the process of widebodying my wrx and am having difficulty finding a product i can use to smooth the seams and still offer enough flex to allow for the different expansion rates from the fiberglass to metal. i currently have a 3M panel bonding adhesive that i used to adhere the panels, then came back with a self leveling 2k seam sealer. and then a high build PPG K36. even with sanding the seam sealer and feather edging it out, my seams still have low spots. I have been eyeing UPOL 7601 plastic bumper filler, thinking that it would have enough flex to suit my needs. i have never used this filler before, but have used other plastic repair products and seem to think it would fit my need.

any advice or other product recomendation is appreciated.

pics for reference





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Old 02-27-2014, 09:11 AM   #338
00camaro16
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Member#: 334291
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ann Arbor, Mi
Vehicle:
2013 WRX Limited
Dark Grey Metallic

Default

I've used that filler before both on a bumper and fiberglass hood. I have no complaints how it has worked.

What about using a filler primer? I can't think of the stuff I have used in the past that I really liked, it filled amazingly well for something that you spray. The hardener was close to the consistency of molasses. I'll check out the can I have left and get you the name.

That line has to suck to sand.
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:29 PM   #339
kolten493
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Member#: 222633
Join Date: Sep 2009
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Katy, TX
Vehicle:
02 WRX
caged 'n such

Default

I've thought about using ever coats slick sand or super fill or whatever, but wasn't sure if that would give me enough of a build. I don't want to hose it down too much and have shrinking or scratch swelling issues later. I know ok not really "supposed" to put anything else on top of the seam sealer, but I was just thinking as long as it's still pliable and since the seam sealer was 2k, I'd probly be okay. Thanks for the info on the upol stuff
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Old 03-07-2014, 12:49 PM   #340
sciroccodotalex
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Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
WRB

Default

[quote=sciroccodotalex;41518740]Can this be saved?

[url=http://s120.photobucket.com/user/sciroccodotalex/media/CAM00432_zps836b2be3.jpg.html]
quote or whatever...



i want to DIY on this hoodscoop after all. what steps do you guys recommend on this (sandpaper grit, and primer etc...)
i learn better by being told "instructions".
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Old 03-07-2014, 12:50 PM   #341
sciroccodotalex
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Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
WRB

Default

already have the paint for it. just need the prep steps.
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:10 PM   #342
toxinwrx
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Member#: 251665
Join Date: Jul 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Statesville, NC
Vehicle:
2006 WRX
Satin White Pearl :)

Default

1.Feather edge the flaking clear with 320 grit (da will really come in handy here!) trying to avoid going through the base coat (color) so there won't be any low spots. Keeping the da (or block if doing it by hand) flat will deter low spots.
2. Once all the flaking clear is feathered out and there is no evidence of a line between the base and the old clear, especially to the touch, you are looking good.
3. Hit the entire area well with 600 grit.
4. Blow it off, clean it with wax and grease remover.
5. Paint it.
6. Cross fingers that all is well and no runs.
7. Rejoice in the finished product : )
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:17 PM   #343
Nick05sti
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Member#: 303290
Join Date: Dec 2011
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by toxinwrx View Post
1.Feather edge the flaking clear with 320 grit (da will really come in handy here!) trying to avoid going through the base coat (color) so there won't be any low spots. Keeping the da (or block if doing it by hand) flat will deter low spots.
2. Once all the flaking clear is feathered out and there is no evidence of a line between the base and the old clear, especially to the touch, you are looking good.
3. Hit the entire area well with 600 grit.
4. Blow it off, clean it with wax and grease remover.
5. Paint it.
6. Cross fingers that all is well and no runs.
7. Rejoice in the finished product : )

320 grit is a but to rough/overkill IMO. The factory clear is super thin. Just spend some time with 600 grit wet sanding the clear off. 320 can and will leave grit marks that are deep and a PITA to get out. My .02
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:19 AM   #344
toxinwrx
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Member#: 251665
Join Date: Jul 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Statesville, NC
Vehicle:
2006 WRX
Satin White Pearl :)

Default

That's fine too. I like doing things and getting them done in the least amount of time, that's how we make money in body shops. A lot of shops will paint right over 320 grit sand scratches and that's ok too. 320 grit doesn't leave deep scratches when using a da or really even when you are blocking by hand. Going back over 320 with 600 eliminates 320 scratches and saves a lot of time. Its all about adhesion. The scratches help provide that adhesion, that's why its critical to sand. Wet sanding really isn't necessary in this situation. It will cause more of a mess than its worth. Going thru the clear here isn't a bad thing either because it is flaking off and will continue to do so. You'll want to get rid of a lot of that clear.
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:43 PM   #345
alucard7755
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Member#: 327664
Join Date: Jul 2012
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Plano, Texas
Vehicle:
2012 Impreza WRX
World Rally Pearl Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
Supply List:
*1 quart body filler with activator (preferably rage gold or comparable product)
*Tube of glazing putty/"icing"
*Assortment of sand paper starting at 40 grit ranging to 400 (40,80,180,220,320,400)
*High build primer
*Sanding block
*DA sander (not necessary but will make job much easier)
*Filler Spreaders

Instructions:
I do not know if you have any prior knowledge when it comes to bodywork so I can only give you guidance and getting it "perfect" depends on the time you take and practice.

1. Were the welds ground flush? If so there is most likely some slight distortion in the metal. Try to get the metal as flush as possible prior to filling. Use a body hammer, or stud welder to do so. If the metal has any low spots that cannot be worked out, sand about a 5" diameter circle from the center of the welds to give you ample room to work. Sand with 80 grit on a DA. Any spot that you will be filling you want bare metal for the filler to adhere to. Do not heat the panel too much with the DA.

2. Mix the filler on a piece of sheet metal or cardboard. A good rule of thumb is put the amount of filler down, and then draw a line across the puddle with activator. Depending on conditions this could vary. Use a spreader to put down only as much filler that is needed over the holes. Let harden, and then begin to sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a block. Sand in a diagonal pattern // then \\ crisscrossing and creating an imaginary "X" over the work area. Do this until you level the filler with the surrounding metal. This will take some practice to get correct. A helpful trick is to apply a guide coat of black spray paint to see if there is any low spots or high spots in the filler.

3. Continue this process of applying filler and then smoothing, and after every coat go to a higher grade sandpaper. For such a small job like this you may only need one coat of filler before glaze. You could start with 180 grit depending on the condition of the metal after the welding.

4. Stop when you feel, with your hand, that the surface is level with the surrounding area and there is no bumps, or dimples. You will finish the filler with 400 grit before applying the glaze. Glaze is basically used to fill any fine scratches still left in the surrounding metal from sanding, or pin-holes that are in the filler. You will apply this extremely thin over the filler with a decent amount of pressure to fill any imperfections.

5. Let the glaze dry and sand with the same process as before, but not so much that you start to take off material from the filler below. You will see the glaze fill the scratches and pin-holes.

6. After this work you will get a good feel for sanding and should feather out the existing paint surrounding your area of repair. Use 400 to scuff existing paint.

7. Mask up for high build primer by back taping your work area and covering anything you do not wish to get primer on. Never apply primer to the edge of the tape or you will get a "hard edge".

8. Let primer dry and wet sand with 400/600 grit paper.

9. Send it to paint.

-Matt
I was in a minor collision yesterday, and it's got my brain going with some ideas of how to turn this mess into something cool. Could I in theory, use this process to fill in the part behind the license plate molding on the front bumper cover, and then sand down the molding to make a smooth bumper?

The part circled in red is what I want to try and sand down:



My ouchies....

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Old 05-08-2014, 11:21 AM   #346
bl0wnb0xerbabiE
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Member#: 121722
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Vehicle:
2006 Impreza WRX tr
Obsidian Black

Default

I have an 06 wrx black obsidian pearl. I have a hookup on a brand new paint job and I was thinking about keeping it the same oem color scheme but bumping up the pearlescent green flake a little bit more than stock to be more apparent. Does anyone know what specific color layer The body shop that is doing the work would need to increase?
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