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Old 07-02-2013, 08:57 AM   #1
tnguyen600
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Default Log Analysis - IAG Protuned

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Last edited by tnguyen600; 08-01-2013 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:28 AM   #2
Never Summer
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You didn't do a proper log. What u have posted is useless. You have an STi so you must do a 4th gear pull starting at 3,000 rpm WOT then stop your logging once you redline
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:32 AM   #3
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Thanks for the response. I honestly didn't know that. I'll try to get out there during my lunch break and see what I can do.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:36 AM   #4
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:56 AM   #5
tnguyen600
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One of the things that I've recently noticed is that when i get in to start my car...it takes a few seconds longer to crank. Sometimes i have to stop and recrank it so that it turns over.

Is that normal considering my fuel mods or am i just being paranoid? lol thanks again
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never Summer View Post
You didn't do a proper log. What u have posted is useless. You have an STi so you must do a 4th gear pull starting at 3,000 rpm WOT then stop your logging once you redline
Not true. There are two types of logs, normal driving under load and driving under boost wot. You have two fueling loops open and closed. 1-2 is fine for roughness for stock. You may see up to six with a built engine.

For the cranking issue that may be that you didn't prime the fuel pump. I never prime mine, I know you should. I'll look over the log some
Time today I'm on my phone an in traffic now.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:22 AM   #7
Never Summer
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Not true. There are two types of logs, normal driving under load and driving under boost wot. You have two fueling loops open and closed. 1-2 is fine for roughness for stock. You may see up to six with a built engine.

For the cranking issue that may be that you didn't prime the fuel pump. I never prime mine, I know you should. I'll look over the log some
Time today I'm on my phone an in traffic now.
The main logs you should be concerned about are the 4th gear wot logs. Normal driving logs are gonna show some sort of numbers under feedback knock and fine knock learn that really don't matter. Those numbers will make someone new to logging panic when they don't need to be
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never Summer View Post

The main logs you should be concerned about are the 4th gear wot logs. Normal driving logs are gonna show some sort of numbers under feedback knock and fine knock learn that really don't matter. Those numbers will make someone new to logging panic when they don't need to be
Agreed. Just don't want people thinking driving logs are not useful.

I did notice you didn't log a/f correction. There is some significant af learning at times. Again on my my phone so looking at the spread sheet is a pita. I shoot for little af learning as correction should be +/- 5 percent depending on injectors ( most are modified stockers and suck)
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:14 AM   #9
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Thanks for the input Ryan. I'll do another log as soon as I can. Rick says the log (from above) looks good but I'll do one with a/f correction.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:13 PM   #10
Never Summer
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Thanks for the input Ryan. I'll do another log as soon as I can. Rick says the log (from above) looks good but I'll do one with a/f correction.
You're log certainly doesn't look bad. DAM 1, min change in the feedback knock and fine knock leaning.

OP....when you do a 4th gear pull....you want DAM all 1's and 0's on the other two I mentioned.
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:38 PM   #11
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Post up the correction log. Do a wot pull and a driving log. I'm looking at the learned knock. That's not normal to me. That means under some condition the car will pull -1 of timing no matter what seeing feedback nock every now and again is okay learned is not optimal. When you open it your log look for the learned knock, what rpm, maf volt, timing and boost. It may need a simple maf scale.

That learned knock is not bad but it shouldn't be there. Most tuners allow -1 learned knock. Only problem is untill the car learns the knock your ARE knocking. If something happens that would induce knock, wrong gas for example, your knock will get much worse.
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:30 PM   #12
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Since I had the day off from work, I decided to had down to IAG for a "quick" look over.

1) There was an issue with this rattle/creaking sound. Turns out its the fuel line making that noise. Since I "upgraded" to the 2005 fuel reg, I may need to get the dampener which may or may not reduce the sound.

2) The issue with starting the car. Turns out the deatschwerks 65C pump that i got sucks dick. It wasn't holding pressure which is why starting the car was harder. Fred replaced the 65C pump with a Walbro pump. Do I need to come back for a partial tune? Probably but who knows.

3) Now my horn doesnt work lol Originally you have the front horns and the one on the side. When I upgraded to the hella horns, I left the one on the side in tact. I have the scooby mod wire harness. I checked the power line that goes directly to the battery...fuse is still good. I was going to check the other fuses but i started thinking...are there two separate fuses for the horn? I only ask because if the fuse was bad...wouldn't both horns (front and side) not work? I'm totally confused. I mean, if the front has its own separate fuse and the side has its own...that it would make sense that it still works. I'll have to investigate tomorrow morning.

I love the guys at IAG. I'm just pissed off about the pump being ****ty. Apparently their failure rate is like 30-40%. Deatschwerks. Never again.
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:03 PM   #13
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Check the horn relay that could be bad.

The pump will not require a re tune unless it flow less thus messing with the fuel trims.

Did they look at your tune?
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:07 PM   #14
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The horn relay that came with the hella horns?

The car was tune with the deatschwerks 65C. Today, it was replaced with a Walbro 255lph.

I emailed Rick the log from my original post and he said it was fine.

Thanks again for your help Ryan
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:50 PM   #15
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No problem.

There are two relays. One for the Hellas and one in the engine bay fuse box.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:02 PM   #16
tnguyen600
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:07 PM   #17
tnguyen600
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New short black has been in for about 2K miles now. I flashed to stage one. I don't know if it's paranoia but i feel like there's a new sound everyday that i'm hearing. Anyway, car was making some weird sounds during WOT so I whipped out the AP at the least minute to log.

Can you fine folks on NASIOC review and advise?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Xc&usp=sharing

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:01 PM   #18
nmlittlebigman
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Your fuel trims are whack. You have something going on with your new fueling setup which won't work with an OTS map. Time to go back to the tuner.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:59 PM   #19
tnguyen600
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the only fuel system upgrade is the pump. I never swamped it back to stock. it's a walbro 255.
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:20 PM   #20
Ryan321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnguyen600 View Post
New short black has been in for about 2K miles now. I flashed to stage one. I don't know if it's paranoia but i feel like there's a new sound everyday that i'm hearing. Anyway, car was making some weird sounds during WOT so I whipped out the AP at the least minute to log.

Can you fine folks on NASIOC review and advise?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Xc&usp=sharing

Thanks in advance
It's probably the cob map.

Your air fuels are off. In the log the corrections are all negative so the ecu is pulling fuel meaning your running rich. Your going to need an aftermarket wide band as the stock one is not accurate under boost. Your target should be between 11.3-11.5.

Another problem may be the timing. Cob typically uses a good amount of timing. I would start with the air fuel first as that could have caused the learned knock as well.

Just to recap:

I would use a tail pipe sniffer or wide band in the downpipe

You can check the timing in access race tuner too.
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