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Old 07-23-2009, 12:18 AM   #176
stamps31757
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my vacuum gauge does that every so often. I don't know the cause but it gets annoying.
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Old 07-23-2009, 07:51 PM   #177
2slofouru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topguneagle1 View Post
2slow how did you align your timing belt?
There are marks on the timing cover and block that correspond with the notches on the crank and cam pullies. I can turn the engine over and the timing stays perfectly aligned. The mark on the block and crank pulley are critical and those are in the correct location. I was actually hoping there was a belt alignment mistake the first time I removed everything to double check but apparently I was spot on the first time.
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:37 PM   #178
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I got another ej20k ecu to replace mine because apparently I toasted something inside on the first start... when I wired the extra boost sensor power wires backwards. I was running the powerfc because my ecu was keeping the cel on for no external reasons but want to run oem until I can get the powerfc tuned. (haven't had the time) I finally found a replacement and it has a slightly different part number. Is there a way to determine if it will have the same programming as my original? Thanks for any help

Original (red):




Replacement (blue):

Last edited by 2slofouru; 10-28-2009 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:57 PM   #179
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Just got home from driving with the replacement (blue) ecu and its obvious its from a different trim model wrx. The seller told me its a 97 and so was mine. My ecu ran around 17psi max and this ecu runs around 12. Apparently the model number (AC722 vs AC721) difference has to do with the tune...

Last edited by 2slofouru; 10-29-2009 at 10:21 PM. Reason: typed the wrong color, oops
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:13 PM   #180
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hmm wonder what color my 1s ecu is

ill report back
very intersted to see your pfc tune when you get it done
i have been building a map but think i might start over.. changing the injector scale.. i am already at 80% at 1 bar 6500 ~11.2
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:41 PM   #181
Matt Monson
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My v3 was a blue one. Same part number too, AC721
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:01 PM   #182
2slofouru
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Well my ticking noise seems a little louder every week. I'm thinking it might be a wrist pin because a few have suggested based on the sound and because its been going on for months and the engine is still chugging along. Now I'm wondering if the rod(s) will be ok and if I can just swap in new pistons and rings and get a hone. The oem pistons were supposedly forged so I plan on getting forged (as long as the problem is a wrist pin)
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Old 04-18-2010, 06:22 PM   #183
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Well since I haven't been here for a while, a few updates:

-wrecked my car into a curb (well over the curb and down the sidewalk actually) and totalled it back in February. Got another right front control arm and am running one mismatched wheel because the rf was so bent up. Still driving with the cracked windshield and of course duct tape around the window and down the roof seams to keep water out for now lol.
-got another 95L couple (red) and have rewired the ecu harness already. Its 2wd so that should be fun for a while until I have time to make sure my awd drivetrain will be able to hold up to my next engine.
-decided that instead of just swapping my ej20k over (has weird noise that's stabilized and hasn't gotten worse since my last post) I'm building my previous ej25d similar to Skully's build(s).

Now I just have to decide on a few things:

-Which crank to use? I want 79mm stroke but is there a phase 1 crank with that stroke or will I need to use a phase 2 wrx crank?
-Whether or not to sleeve the block? I'm not going for 900hp but it sure would be nice knowing the cylinders are staying consistently parallel when I decide to run high boost (30-35psi) and sleeves aren't crazy expensive. The labor might be though, I'll find out this week after dropping the block halves off to be checked out.
-Which headgaskets to use? I want a thick enough oem style so my ej20k heads' valves don't smack the aftermarket forged pistons...
-Which forged pistons to get? There are several brands and they all claim to be the best and lightest. A couple even seem to be clones. This decision will probably take the longest.
-Which forged rods to get? This idea is similar to above and they range from $250 shipped for four forged h-beam rods and up.
-Which injectors to use at first? I want to keep side feed for now and can get the car tuned for an ok tune with my 440c wrx injectors but will step up to a size that allows around 500whp eventually (which of course will involve more exhaust modding and a larger turbo, fmic, etc). I might even get a set of 550cc sti injectors before the first tune but am not sure I can get it safely driveable to the dyno and towing it there will be $$$.
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Old 06-05-2010, 05:20 PM   #184
2slofouru
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Default small update, need suggestions

I found a set of new takeout 2.5l sti pistons for a good price and now need to decide on which rods and crank to get. Probably will need a 75mm stroke crank to keep my #3 thrust bearing setup as I don't plan on running crazy hp and main bearings don't commonly go bad either way. I'm going to stay with my vf22, tmic and 3" turboback exhaust for now. Pans are to install my ej20k heads on the ej25d (phase 1) block and run 20-25 psi of boost max. I will surely need larger injectors.

I have:
-new ej25 sti pistons
-ej25d (97/98) block case
-apexi pfc
-vf22 turbo
-97 ej20k tmic

I need:
-? year/model 75mm crankshaft
-? rods to go with crankshaft and pistons

I'll be getting oem ej257 headgaskets as they seem to do the trick from what I've heard and also will be getting the block honed for the pistons of course. Might even get the pistons and rods balanced if I can find a competent shop to do it. I'm having problems wrapping my head around the idea of how rod length and crankshaft stroke go hand in hand. I've heard all of the usdm ej20-ej25 turbo engine rod lengths are the same but if that's the case how do you go from the ej20 75mm crank stroke to the ej25 79mm stroke without problems? Are the piston pins in different locations for ej25 vs ej20?
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:58 PM   #185
2slofouru
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Ancient bump because plans changed slightly. I purchased:

new JE hybrid (ej20/ej25) 2618 pistons

used (supposedly) low mileage ej25(sti) crankshaft (magnaflux checked by a recommended shop in Houston)

acl "race" bearings

new manley h beam rods

used (supposedly) low mileage ej257 703 case (bored and honed by a recommended shop in Houston)

subaru ej25d oem full gasket kit (with thickest oem ej25 gaskets)

I still will be running the vf22 and will be getting larger injectors. Also have to get either the tic or crawford timing belt adjuster pulleys but am waiting until the shortblock is sorted out.

I finally had the chance this weekend to assemble the shortblock. Had the proper tools, assembly lube, etc. After using the torque only method to temporarily assemble the case with only bearings and crank, I noticed the crank would not spin by hand. As in you couldn't even push on the crank's rod journals and get it to spin. I had used the torque only method to assemble the ej20k (that's been running in my car for 2 years) and its been fine, so apparently there was a problem.

After searching around and finding there were a few different service manual variants to the tightening sequence I tried the torque and angle method. This didn't work either so apparently there is a problem with the new bearings, crankshaft, case, or a combination of two or more. Looks like I will have to take all parts back to the machine shop to get checked out. This really sucks because the temporary fwd transmission is on its way out (another blown second) so I will be without the car for a while when that happens.

I'm more inclined to think its a problem with the acl bearings from hearing so many claims of them being incorrectly boxed. Almost makes me want to just get a set from the dealer but hoping they will get things right the first time is also a gamble. Ugh, I need some inspiration.

Last edited by 2slofouru; 07-31-2011 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 07-31-2011, 05:34 PM   #186
2slofouru
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For the main set the box part number is 5M8309H-STD
These are the p/n's stamped on the actual bearings, both halves:

#1 - 8297H DE10 STD
#2 - 8298H DE10 STD
#3 - 8297H DE10 STD
#4 - 8298H DE10 STD
#2 - 8309H NO10 STD

They all are stamped with the part numbers, same on both halves of the bearings. So unless they are incorrect part numbers or have the correct part numbers and are machined incorrectly, something else must be wrong. I test fitted one rod with bearing to the crank and it was able to move freely, I'll still probably double check those as well.
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Old 08-06-2011, 12:10 AM   #187
2slofouru
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Just may have found the issue. Even though the bearings are stamped STD and have the proper part numbers...


Crank mains:
1-2.362
2-2.362
3-2.362
4-2.362
5-2.362

Main bearings installed in torqued case:

1-2.361
2-2.361
3-2.360
4-2.361
5-2.360

Thanks ACL! :P

At least I won't need to get yet ANOTHER possibly fubared case and pay to have it machined. Time to decide on another brand of bearings
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:06 PM   #188
2slofouru
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Don't use loctite on flywheel bolts


What happens when the tiny bit of loctite gets between the flywheel and crank and allows it to become loose.


Time to get the hybrid build moving





/\ Larry's Power in Connecticut

Supertech inconel exhaust and stainless intake valves


More hybrid suby porn


Clowning around at work
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:10 PM   #189
2slofouru
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Ej257 solid buckets don't fit ej25d/ej20k buckets


Considerate dodge owner parking right on the line and halfway into my space, because people respect riders :/


Checking things


Great tool


Ej20k pistons that have seen 20psi boost on 93 octane daily = zero damage


One of the badass hybrid pistons in a set I sold to a member who kindly never left feedback, like most of my transactions here....great system. I ended up getting the heads chambered to match the ej257 design so had to switch to the normal cc pistons.


Generic silicone intake, had to cut one intake boss and cut off a fuel line and emission line tab to fit. Slightly larger than the oem intake.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:21 PM   #190
2slofouru
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These are for sale because I used the supertech dual springs and their lower spring spacers which don't fit the crowers. I wanted to use the crowers, but a member screwed around with my time and I didn't feel like waiting months for him to deliver.





Lol, not anymore


JE 2618 pistons, oem gaskets, arp studs


Greddy timing belt, Crawford adjustable idlers, Grimmspeed lw crank pulley


Exedy is aware of clutch noise with lw flywheels and is giving you a disclaimer to prove it


Exedy subaru love


"Stage 1" clutch

Last edited by 2slofouru; 10-11-2013 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:24 PM   #191
2slofouru
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Crammed back into the car and running


Oem maf pic for reference


What it has sounded like since 10/05/13, last Saturday. Not bad, not bad at all. It actually seems louder in the video than in person.

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Old 10-12-2013, 08:45 AM   #192
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video is set to private
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:51 AM   #193
2slofouru
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Sorry, fixed it
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:06 PM   #194
Supraru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post


These are for sale because I used the supertech dual springs and their lower spring spacers which don't fit the crowers. I wanted to use the crowers, but a member screwed around with my time and I didn't feel like waiting months for him to deliver.





Lol, not anymore


JE 2618 pistons, oem gaskets, arp studs


Greddy timing belt, Crawford adjustable idlers, Grimmspeed lw crank pulley


Exedy is aware of clutch noise with lw flywheels and is giving you a disclaimer to prove it


Exedy subaru love


"Stage 1" clutch

I love the clutch noise warning. The messed up part is when I had my stock rs set up I ran a 9 lb flywheel with no special noises. I wonder what the difference is between that and the wrx boxes. Can't be to different.
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:19 PM   #195
2slofouru
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Its actually quieter than when I had the 05 RS transmission and spec disc with exedy RS pressure plate and exedy lwfw. Now I'm running an 11 wrx transmission and F1 lwfw with the exedy stage1 kit for them. I do notice the stage 1 discs have only four single beefy springs vs the dual four spring setup in the oem type. Maybe they use only four to shave some weight for easier shifting but this adds noise? There has to be a reason behind less springs.
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:30 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
Its actually quieter than when I had the 05 RS transmission and spec disc with exedy RS pressure plate and exedy lwfw. Now I'm running an 11 wrx transmission and F1 lwfw with the exedy stage1 kit for them. I do notice the stage 1 discs have only four single beefy springs vs the dual four spring setup in the oem type. Maybe they use only four to shave some weight for easier shifting but this adds noise? There has to be a reason behind less springs.
I had a lot of different set ups on the same trans. 1st was act full disk with street light fw. Had tons of noise. Second was Spec stage 2.5 clutch with spec light fw, tons of noise still. Went back to a stock cut fw and it was pretty much gone. Lost the spec clutch with the 2.5 set up and went with an act 6 puck and streetlight fw I had no noise. lol. The trade of was two blown 5 speeds. haha.
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:33 PM   #197
2slofouru
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Yeah, the way noise frequencies are created depends a lot on the combined resonant frequencies of the drivetrain components. Changing one thing or another can have a huge effect, same as tuning an audio system. This is why its so difficult to find the "perfect" setup for anyone. I just hope the exedy holds the power, if not I will get another ceramic disc like the spec I had. It held the torque great and engagement was streetable for me.
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:39 PM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
Yeah, the way noise frequencies are created depends a lot on the combined resonant frequencies of the drivetrain components. Changing one thing or another can have a huge effect, same as tuning an audio system. This is why its so difficult to find the "perfect" setup for anyone. I just hope the exedy holds the power, if not I will get another ceramic disc like the spec I had. It held the torque great and engagement was streetable for me.
With a VF22? I imagine you should be fine. I actually really love the spec 2.5 on the 2.0L. It felt nice and solid and could take a beating at the track without killing your trans. As soon as I ran the 2.5 block with the hta-68 the first launch smoked the clutch for good even though it was rated for 520 ft lbs to the clutch.
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:15 AM   #199
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It looks like the old engine bearing failure was due to applying moly lube(for fasteners) to the bearings. Its irrelevant now, but ive seen that happen a few times.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:47 AM   #200
2slofouru
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Either:

1-You didn't read the thread and have ZERO idea what you are talking about

-or-

2-You are replying to the wrong topic

I replaced the previous engine because I used LOCTITE on the rear crank face and it damaged the face, NOTHING to do with bearings. In fact, the bearings are perfect and I would still be driving it with the same engine and taking more time to build the car had I not worked on the car so late and used loctite.

There was zero bearing failure anywhere in my engine or thread, random post?

Quote:
Originally Posted by slogu View Post
It looks like the old engine bearing failure was due to applying moly lube(for fasteners) to the bearings. Its irrelevant now, but ive seen that happen a few times.
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