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Old 08-20-2013, 11:20 PM   #5151
harlen
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Yosemitemtb
I have the hotchkis endlinks which are a bit wider than stock so they bend inwards even more than the stock endlinks pictured above. I think they adressed the issue by using a larger ID on the bottom sleeve inside the bushing to give the bolt room to adjust for the angle... not a good solution. I'm thinking about either making new laterial links or making new endlinks...

Bikelok
What rear endlinks are you using?
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:58 PM   #5152
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harlen View Post
Yosemitemtb
I have the hotchkis endlinks which are a bit wider than stock so they bend inwards even more than the stock endlinks pictured above. I think they adressed the issue by using a larger ID on the bottom sleeve inside the bushing to give the bolt room to adjust for the angle... not a good solution. I'm thinking about either making new laterial links or making new endlinks...

Bikelok
What rear endlinks are you using?
I went back to stock to "de-tune" and soften up the sways. I kind of like it, but I'm not sure I will keep them on.



Oh, I forgot to mention I have Eibach (SPC) lateral links. Those end link blocks actually allow me to adjust the links. I can even run it STI style.
They were straight with my stock lateral links though.

Sorry for the crappy pic.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:49 AM   #5153
yosemitemtb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harlen View Post
Yosemitemtb
I have the hotchkis endlinks which are a bit wider than stock so they bend inwards even more than the stock endlinks pictured above. I think they adressed the issue by using a larger ID on the bottom sleeve inside the bushing to give the bolt room to adjust for the angle... not a good solution. I'm thinking about either making new laterial links or making new endlinks...

Bikelok
What rear endlinks are you using?
The adjustable lateral links I got from Hotchkis solved my issue but I never could get them to admit there was anything wrong with the bar. I just thought it was cool that they sent me $350 worth of stuff to fix my $200 sway bar issue. I'm running Kartboy endlinks these days, the Whitelines got sloppy in the bushings, with the adjustable mounts on the lateral links, they are at the right angle.

When I broke the front bar, I called them on Monday and had a brand new bar at my house on Wednesday for $10 to cover shipping. No questions, no problems, just perfect service even on 7 a year old part with over 100,000 miles on it.
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:07 AM   #5154
harlen
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I doubt they'll send me new lateral links since I bought the bars used lol. The car is driving fine now so I'm not going to worry about it too much. Just drew up some endlinks that i'll probably cut in the next couple of weeks. Thanks for the input guys.
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:40 PM   #5155
wcu25rs
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Got my AGX/Swift wagon setup installed on Friday along with both front axles, pads, rotors(H6 rear upgrade),SS lines, com cs, group n rear trailing arm bushings, and unabombers sexy rearend. I haven't gotten an alignment yet, but I've got an appointment for Tuesday. Even so, for what I use my car for, I think I'll be happy for a good while. Cornering is much flatter now and car feels way more composed. Front and rear is set to stiffest setting, but ride still feels pretty good. My 04 Si with stock suspension is more jarring. I'm getting a little bounce over very uneven surfaces, but nothing major. Only slight issue is I'm getting a metallic clickety clack sound on the right front while gradually turning right(had no noise prior to install).

One thing about my brake setup is that I was expecting a firmer pedal feel. My pedal still feels mushy but otherwise braking with the new fronts and H6 rear is so balanced and smooth.

One issue I would like to get some opinions on: this has been going on for about 2 years. I'm getting a loud pop(almost like a binding, then release) from the left front, which happens mainly when I'm turning on uneven transitions. I've taken the sway bar off and reinstalled once, and the shop I use did it once(whiteline FSB with KB links), but it hasn't went away. One thought I had was that maybe I got sedan links by accident but the right side doesn't do it. But I still feel its a sway issue but I could be completely wrong. Any ideas whatsoever?
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:26 PM   #5156
harlen
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Have you tried removing the bar and driving on the same surface?
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:52 PM   #5157
wcu25rs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harlen View Post
Have you tried removing the bar and driving on the same surface?
I haven't. Like I said, it's been taken on and off twice, and I've made a visual inspection, as well as make sure it's secure. Everything says it isn't the sway, but my gut says it is for some reason. But I need to do what you suggested for sure.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:06 PM   #5158
Awd180
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I'm still on stock struts and springs, 165k, going to koni inserts next month unless I see a better option. It's going to be about 1200 installed with the alignment.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:58 PM   #5159
wrXmon
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is still going strong.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrXmon View Post
Update (2002 WRX Wagon)

- Enkei RPF-1 17x8 wheels
- 225/45/ 17 Goodyear Eagle GT tires
- Crucial Racing springs
- Group-n strut tops
- Cobb front swaybar
- Cobb rear swaybar
- Perrin stout mounts
- Kartboy Botox bolts
- Kartboy wagon front endlinks
- Kartboy rear endlinks
- Kartboy outrigger bushings (comfort)
- GT Spec ALK
- GT Spec subframe brace
- GT Spec t-brace
- GT Spec rear strut tower brace
- Cusco front strut tower brace
- Creative Werks cowl stays
- JDM GC8 aluminum control arms
- SuperPro steering rack bushings
- Eibach camber bolts
- Rolled rear fenders

- Stoptech slotted front rotors
- Stoptech pads
- Brembo slotted rear rotors
- Goodridge stainless steel lines
- ATE brake fluid
- Grimmspeed master cylinder brace
- H6 rear brake bracket

- Kartboy shifter bushings
- Group-n transmission mount
- SuperPro crossmember bushings
- Turn In Concepts rear diff mount bushings
Added:

- Koni Inserts
- D_Rex extenders
- TiC 3/8" saggy butt spacers

I'm about to embark on a two week long road trip. It should be fun.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:06 PM   #5160
BlueWagon02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naCAnItihS View Post

2002 WRX Wagon
ISC-N1 Street Coilovers w/ front camber plates
White Line front and rear sway bars
225/45/17 Nexen 3000
17x7.5 et38 BBS VZ
Rears rolled flush
Fronts rolled

I had to run a bit of extra camber in the front in order not to smash the fenders. I rub the fender liners on good size bumps and the rears dont really rub anymore after rolling the back side of the lips more (slight pull there).

Clean bugeye. Did you cut out the bottom center of your front bumper? Curious to see how it looks like from different angles.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:06 PM   #5161
pattylicous
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Dumb wagon suspension question incoming.

I have an '06 wagon with the stock springs and struts. I bought Prodrive Blue springs, but I unknowingly got the 02/03 versions. From all my readings it seems that you can put 04+ springs on an 02/03 with tophats/spaces but not the other way around. Is that correct and am I SOL? If so, anyone want to buy a set of Prodrive springs in good condition?
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:21 PM   #5162
kirshnerd
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You'll need 02/03 tophats for 02/03 springs.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:08 PM   #5163
pattylicous
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I'm hoping that's the case and that's all I need.
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Old 10-30-2013, 01:59 PM   #5164
boostem
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I would like some information on coilover spring rates for a street wagon, because I am concerned that a harsh ride wouldn't make my little girl (14mo) very happy!

Since most coilover kits come with a minimum of 8k spring rate and up what custom rate would be ideal for streetability? Is there a kit most people use that has a softer ride?

thank you

edit: i understand there has to be some compromise in going to a coilover setup

Last edited by boostem; 10-30-2013 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:44 PM   #5165
kirshnerd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostem View Post
I would like some information on coilover spring rates for a street wagon, because I am concerned that a harsh ride wouldn't make my little girl (14mo) very happy!

Since most coilover kits come with a minimum of 8k spring rate and up what custom rate would be ideal for streetability? Is there a kit most people use that has a softer ride?

thank you

edit: i understand there has to be some compromise in going to a coilover setup
I've been running 7k/7k on my wagon all spring/summer/fall until now. Coming from springs/struts its obviously a bit stiffer, and with less travel the big hits are harder on everything/everyone, but for daily driving it's pretty good, considering the car is slammed on coils. haha
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:14 PM   #5166
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostem View Post
I would like some information on coilover spring rates for a street wagon, because I am concerned that a harsh ride wouldn't make my little girl (14mo) very happy!

Since most coilover kits come with a minimum of 8k spring rate and up what custom rate would be ideal for streetability? Is there a kit most people use that has a softer ride?

thank you

edit: i understand there has to be some compromise in going to a coilover setup
Are you on stock springs/struts?

If so, then you are making a big jump in spring rate. More importantly you will be loosing very much needed travel.

To be honest with you almost all coil overs less than $1300 are not worth the bother. They are crap to be frank. Feal makes a good entry level set at around $1300. That's the bottom end.

Slammed cars drive like crap. Some will say otherwise, but I think that perhaps they just have never been in a properly set up car to know the difference.

You are probably better off with a good spring/strut combo like, STI take off springs matched with your choice of Koni inserts, Tokico D-Spec (if you can find a set), Feal inserts, KYB AGX (only to be used with STI springs). This combo performs great, not harsh, less expensive than comparable coil overs and less futzing with them.

Also your profile does not say what model or year the car is. I only assume its a wagon since you posted on this thread. We also don't know what region you live in (snow, rain, heat, bad roads?)

My .02cents
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:46 PM   #5167
boostem
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
Are you on stock springs/struts?

If so, then you are making a big jump in spring rate. More importantly you will be loosing very much needed travel.

To be honest with you almost all coil overs less than $1300 are not worth the bother. They are crap to be frank. Feal makes a good entry level set at around $1300. That's the bottom end.

Slammed cars drive like crap. Some will say otherwise, but I think that perhaps they just have never been in a properly set up car to know the difference.

You are probably better off with a good spring/strut combo like, STI take off springs matched with your choice of Koni inserts, Tokico D-Spec (if you can find a set), Feal inserts, KYB AGX (only to be used with STI springs). This combo performs great, not harsh, less expensive than comparable coil overs and less futzing with them.

Also your profile does not say what model or year the car is. I only assume its a wagon since you posted on this thread. We also don't know what region you live in (snow, rain, heat, bad roads?)

My .02cents
The wagon is an 11 WRX...

I know what I want and have to run coilovers to use my wheels. Shocks/struts with spring are out of the question.

In the past ive ran 4 different coilover setups, so I just wasnt sure on the WRX because it is so much lighter than my other cars/setups.
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:32 PM   #5168
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostem View Post

The wagon is an 11 WRX...

I know what I want and have to run coilovers to use my wheels. Shocks/struts with spring are out of the question.

In the past ive ran 4 different coilover setups, so I just wasnt sure on the WRX because it is so much lighter than my other cars/setups.
Ok, I understand. I will stand by my statement that you would probably need to spend at least $1300 to get something worthwhile.

Also 08 and up wrx's are hatches or sedans, not wagons.
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:51 PM   #5169
boostem
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I dont understand why a mid/high range coil setup would be "less harsh" or better for the street....Is that because of the adjustment capabilities of a mid range coil setup compared to a 900-1200 entry kit?
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:56 PM   #5170
Psychoreo
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I have "****ty" BCBR's on my wagon. Whatever the common spring rates are. I like them better than my KYB/Epic spring combo that was on there before.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:05 PM   #5171
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostem View Post
I dont understand why a mid/high range coil setup would be "less harsh" or better for the street....Is that because of the adjustment capabilities of a mid range coil setup compared to a 900-1200 entry kit?
To put it simply, inferior dampers, inferior components.
To be honest with you, except for some nice high end units, I've never been impressed by any cheapo set. They ride poor, don't last very long before needing a rebuild and usually can't withstand the elements without corroding away.
They just don't compare.

I'd suggest calling Feal, Turn in Concepts and Racecomp Engineering, ask for their opinion and help. They will put you on the right path. Those guys are EXTREMELY KNOWLEDGEABLE!!!

I can tell you my kids would have hated me if I had cheapo coil overs on my car.

Edit: I also stand by my statement that most people who say they like their cheap coilovers don't know what a good suspension is really like.
Not trying to be an ass, but be careful taking advise from the interwebz. THAT'S WHY I SUGGEST CALLING THOSE GUYS TO GET THE TRUTH!
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:38 PM   #5172
boostem
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I definately will, thanks for the advice!

Are asphalt Rally coil overs an option or is that a bad idea? Im very interested to try it out.
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:26 AM   #5173
boostem
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
To put it simply, inferior dampers, inferior components.
To be honest with you, except for some nice high end units, I've never been impressed by any cheapo set. They ride poor, don't last very long before needing a rebuild and usually can't withstand the elements without corroding away.
They just don't compare.

I'd suggest calling Feal, Turn in Concepts and Racecomp Engineering, ask for their opinion and help. They will put you on the right path. Those guys are EXTREMELY KNOWLEDGEABLE!!!

I can tell you my kids would have hated me if I had cheapo coil overs on my car.

Edit: I also stand by my statement that most people who say they like their cheap coilovers don't know what a good suspension is really like.
Not trying to be an ass, but be careful taking advise from the interwebz. THAT'S WHY I SUGGEST CALLING THOSE GUYS TO GET THE TRUTH!
I talked to Feal and ended up ordering a set of Feal 441-Gravel specific coilover. Like you said, they were very helpful, so thanks again!
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Old 11-05-2013, 04:33 PM   #5174
urabuster
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I have a 2003 wrx wagon and I am looking at a local used set of 06 sedan springs/struts/tophats. I have read that they will fit as long as I use the 06 tophats but that I will lose negative camber.

Am I right? Will they fit?
If so, will I still be able to achieve factory camber specs?
Would it be a good idea to buy saggy butt spacers or will that limit my camber adjustability too much?

Thank you guys very much for your advice.
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:37 PM   #5175
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urabuster View Post
I have a 2003 wrx wagon and I am looking at a local used set of 06 sedan springs/struts/tophats. I have read that they will fit as long as I use the 06 tophats but that I will lose negative camber.

Am I right? Will they fit?
If so, will I still be able to achieve factory camber specs?
Would it be a good idea to buy saggy butt spacers or will that limit my camber adjustability too much?

Thank you guys very much for your advice.
This is all in the stickies!!!!!!!!

You should use the struts, springs and top hats as a set. Unless you mix and match (READ THE STICKIES TO FIGURE OUT mixing and matching)..

Yes they will fit.
Yes you will loose negative camber.
Yes you probably will need saggy butt spacers and no they won't effect the camber.

To get to the factory camber settings you would need to either:
Slot the struts (I prefer this method. Look it up!).
Aftermarket camber bolts (they work, are a pain for most to use and not my favorite method).

I hope this helps. Good luck.
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