Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday July 30, 2015
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo)

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-17-2013, 01:55 PM   #1
neurosis05
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 230265
Join Date: Nov 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Omaha, Ne
Vehicle:
2005 WRX stage II
Black

Default Engine sound at cold start

Started my 05 WRX this morning and heard a fast tick/knock. Shut off the engine and checked the oil and it was 1.5 QT. Added oil and sound was quieter. Took it for a drive and let it warm up and now it's gone. It was cold last night and the car was sitting for a couple of days. I imagine the oil was thick and the engine was low on oil that perhaps it was starved of oil?

Rotella T6 and Purolator 14460 is what I use. I am 2000 miles over due for a change. I've been busy
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
neurosis05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 10-17-2013, 03:47 PM   #2
sg_halvorsen
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 201924
Join Date: Feb 2009
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Eldersburg, MD
Vehicle:
98 Forester with a
full wrx drivetrain swap

Default

Probably just noise from oil starvation and old dirty oil. If it was fast higher pitch ticking it was your valves. Normal noise for low oil. Not a good noise but not horrible either. Change your oil and if it keeps up you may need a heavier weight. But then again it is getting cold so maybe just an oil additive like STP or Lucas to help keep the valves lubed.

Edit:

What weight oil do you use?

Last edited by sg_halvorsen; 10-18-2013 at 12:05 PM.
sg_halvorsen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 01:15 PM   #3
kaotic WeRX
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 188546
Join Date: Sep 2008
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: el paso tx
Vehicle:
03 stage 2 WRX
black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by neurosis05 View Post
Started my 05 WRX this morning and heard a fast tick/knock. Shut off the engine and checked the oil and it was 1.5 QT. Added oil and sound was quieter. Took it for a drive and let it warm up and now it's gone. It was cold last night and the car was sitting for a couple of days. I imagine the oil was thick and the engine was low on oil that perhaps it was starved of oil?

Rotella T6 and Purolator 14460 is what I use. I am 2000 miles over due for a change. I've been busy
Regardless of how many miles you are overdue for an oil change doesn't negate the fact that you probably don't take the 30 seconds to check your oil when you're pumping gas. Oil level is far more important than any other oil requirement IMO. I go over all the time on Rotella, but i keep it full and haven't had problems.

If you were only at 1.5 qt total in engine, you need to look at your oil light when you turn it on. It's not there for show.. it should turn off while starting. if it begins to flicker then you're most likely running low.. if it doesn't turn on at all when you stick key in ignition, then you have almost no oil and shouldn't start car!!! You should also let the system prime at least for first start of the day, to ensure proper lubing of system. But ALWAYS check the level!!!!!!
kaotic WeRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 11:12 AM   #4
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotic WeRX View Post
You should also let the system prime at least for first start of the day, to ensure proper lubing of system.
curious how you would prime the oil system on a daily basis?
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 12:41 PM   #5
danger1138
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 279525
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: QUEENS NY
Vehicle:
04 rex luger!

Default

Removing the fuel pump fuse behind the coin tray.
danger1138 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 03:10 PM   #6
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

every time you start?

i prime after oil filter changes.. but doing that every day would get pretty damned tedious.
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 03:25 PM   #7
oaklandish_WRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 267339
Join Date: Dec 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: the 5 n dime, NORCAL
Vehicle:
2002 0[[XXXXoXXXX]]0
MBP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotic WeRX View Post
If you were only at 1.5 qt total in engine, you need to look at your oil light when you turn it on. It's not there for show.. it should turn off while starting. if it begins to flicker then you're most likely running low.. if it doesn't turn on at all when you stick key in ignition, then you have almost no oil and shouldn't start car!!!!


the oil light is for pressure, not volume. And IIRC it's set so stoopidly low (single digit PSI) as to be almost useless unless your sump just drained all over the freeway.

Please provide substantiated proof of the bolded part of your post...
Not running engine = no oil pump action = no oil pressure.

oaklandish_WRX is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 04:09 PM   #8
danger1138
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 279525
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: QUEENS NY
Vehicle:
04 rex luger!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
every time you start? i prime after oil filter changes.. but doing that every day would get pretty damned tedious.
When i used to live in a bad neighborhood, i would remove that fuse so as to prevent my car from being stolen, not sure how that would stop someone from just pushing it. I would also prime the car, everyday in the morning before i actually started the car. Kinda OCD but I stopped doing that now, i think that will mess with your starter eventually.
danger1138 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2013, 03:14 AM   #9
kaotic WeRX
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 188546
Join Date: Sep 2008
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: el paso tx
Vehicle:
03 stage 2 WRX
black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oaklandish_WRX View Post


the oil light is for pressure, not volume. And IIRC it's set so stoopidly low (single digit PSI) as to be almost useless unless your sump just drained all over the freeway.

Please provide substantiated proof of the bolded part of your post...
Not running engine = no oil pump action = no oil pressure.


Personal experience. I'll film it for you if you wanna send me 7k for the v7 swap. I admit to running really low on oil ( high miles, burns a lot between changes) and when I went to start the car, noticed no oil light w/ key in "on" position so i checked level. I don't know how long you have been wrenching but an oil light on startup is always something i pay attention to. In ALL my experiences a proper working system will have the light on in "on" position and then light will shut off during, or shortly after start.

I'm no genius but wouldn't pressure be somewhat reliant on volume?

Take my personal experience however you want. If you choose not to look at the light, then that's on you. But with lots of hard miles on my car, i'll continue to monitor my oil light on startup like i usually do, and you can continue believing it's just on when you put the key in to make sure the bulb works. Or you can do what I just did and turn to your owners manual (3-12) and read that if light does not come on it could indicate failure in the system. Which if oil, easiest thing to check would be level... so ya... take it how you want....

Last edited by kaotic WeRX; 10-29-2013 at 03:20 AM.
kaotic WeRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2013, 06:34 AM   #10
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotic WeRX View Post

Personal experience. I'll film it for you if you wanna send me 7k for the v7 swap. I admit to running really low on oil ( high miles, burns a lot between changes) and when I went to start the car, noticed no oil light w/ key in "on" position so i checked level. I don't know how long you have been wrenching but an oil light on startup is always something i pay attention to. In ALL my experiences a proper working system will have the light on in "on" position and then light will shut off during, or shortly after start.

I'm no genius but wouldn't pressure be somewhat reliant on volume?

Take my personal experience however you want. If you choose not to look at the light, then that's on you. But with lots of hard miles on my car, i'll continue to monitor my oil light on startup like i usually do, and you can continue believing it's just on when you put the key in to make sure the bulb works. Or you can do what I just did and turn to your owners manual (3-12) and read that if light does not come on it could indicate failure in the system. Which if oil, easiest thing to check would be level... so ya... take it how you want....
wait.

Are you saying that the idiot oil light on the dash monitors oil _level?_

I'm having trouble following you.
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2013, 06:46 AM   #11
Uncle Scotty
Visiting NASIOC Timeout
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK buy Nates beans
westcoastroasting.com

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by danger1138 View Post
Removing the fuel pump fuse behind the coin tray.

there is NO fuel pump fuse ANYWHERE in the car

there IS an 'IGN' fuse that controls the ignition and injectors...but NOT the fuel pump


the NEW cars....post GD chassis have an oil level light.....GD and older have oil pressure lights that come on when the engine is blown up


and only a TRUE idiot would pull the 'IGN' fuse for the first cold start of the day

maybe after being stored for a month or more....but.....every DAY???

seriously????

SERIOUSLY????

the most absurd thing that i have heard in years
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2013, 07:15 AM   #12
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
the NEW cars....post GD chassis have an oil level light....
interesting. learn something every day!
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2013, 07:15 AM   #13
Jessekrs123
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 236927
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Oakville CT
Vehicle:
2015 BRZ, 93 Legacy,
1984 BRAT

Default

I properly prime my oil system every morning by starting the motor. Easy.

Who the hell has the time to disable ignition, crank the motor, re-enable ignition and start the car? By the time all that has taken place I bet your oil pressure is approaching 0 psi, and you're back to square one, and all that effort was for nothing.

Good lord you people have some pointless rituals.

And to the OP, let me answer your question quickly and efficiently instead of going into excessive, pointless detail about oil lights, v7 swaps, and non-existent fuel pump fuses.

If you start the car and it is cold, and there is a little knocking at the beginning, maybe for 2-3 seconds tops, it is more than likely just piston slap and you have nothing to worry about, as this is pretty common.

If the knocking persists, after the motor has had a little time to warm up then you can be worried.
Jessekrs123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2013, 09:47 AM   #14
Tizman
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 372219
Join Date: Oct 2013
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Clinton, CT
Vehicle:
2005 9-2x Aero
Desert silver metallic

Default

It sounds like a typical engine starve sound. Id do an oil change when you get a chance, just to give the motor its "new breath". Burning oil is very normal in these motors, so i always make sure i do 3k oil changes so i dont go low.
Tizman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2013, 09:42 AM   #15
danger1138
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 279525
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: QUEENS NY
Vehicle:
04 rex luger!

Default

Fuel pump fuse , ignition fuse.. U get my point.
danger1138 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2013, 10:38 AM   #16
02redwagone
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 87067
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Oregon Coast/AK
Vehicle:
02 Old but tasty
SRP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tizman View Post
It sounds like a typical engine starve sound. Id do an oil change when you get a chance, just to give the motor its "new breath". Burning oil is very normal in these motors, so i always make sure i do 3k oil changes so i dont go low.

3k so you dont.... go low? That makes zero sense.

1. Keep it full. (I know...that is so inconvenient and hands onny)
2. Use a manly oil that can last three times more then 3k.
3. Sample your intervals so you might have an actual clue just WTF is really going on.
02redwagone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2013, 11:44 AM   #17
shamrock 05
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 120057
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: *outskirts of motor city*
Vehicle:
2015 WRX (base)
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotic WeRX View Post
Regardless of how many miles you are overdue for an oil change doesn't negate the fact that you probably don't take the 30 seconds to check your oil when you're pumping gas. Oil level is far more important than any other oil requirement IMO. I go over all the time on Rotella, but i keep it full and haven't had problems.

If you were only at 1.5 qt total in engine, you need to look at your oil light when you turn it on. It's not there for show.. it should turn off while starting. if it begins to flicker then you're most likely running low.. if it doesn't turn on at all when you stick key in ignition, then you have almost no oil and shouldn't start car!!! You should also let the system prime at least for first start of the day, to ensure proper lubing of system. But ALWAYS check the level!!!!!!
Once your oil light comes on youe ****ed.....its set at like 5psi. So THATS why I have an oil pressure gauge.
shamrock 05 is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2015 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2015, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.