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Old 10-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #26
Chachie09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilWagon View Post
CAI on a maf engine with no tune is bad juju... I don't blame them for denying the warranty. Take a different approach, it's not a warranty issue, it would be no different than if you went in there with a built or stock motor out of warranty and they forgot to put enough oil in.... It's a mechanic mistake and the dealership themselves should be covering it, not SOA.
Good thing his car doesn't have a MAF engine! 2008+ are MAP engines.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:26 AM   #27
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I wouldn't tear into the motor yet. I would wait until you get some legal action working. if someone comes to check the damage and the motor is all apart, there's no way they are going to cover anything for you. I would leave it as is, and find alternative transportation for now. my .02
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:54 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chachie09 View Post
Good thing his car doesn't have a MAF engine! 2008+ are MAP engines.
2008+ what? Jeeps? Maybe. Not NA Subaru's.
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:57 PM   #29
Garret 2010i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTSubieRS View Post
I wouldn't tear into the motor yet. I would wait until you get some legal action working. if someone comes to check the damage and the motor is all apart, there's no way they are going to cover anything for you. I would leave it as is, and find alternative transportation for now. my .02
It's already been over 40 days since the motor went. We have done all the legal side of it with Subaru. There position is tat they are not fixing it. Time to repair it myself.
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:11 AM   #30
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i'd personally deal with it in a non-legal manner.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:51 PM   #31
Garret 2010i
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We'll we got the motor all apart tonight and it's bearing damage. Not even that bad. One connecting rod has started to warp. The bearings haven't even spun yet. It wouldn't have costed Subaru much to fix it them selves. Now they gotta pay big, sucks for them.
And there was no signs of any oil leaks what so ever. The valve cover gaskets are in great shape. The dealership isn't looking great now.
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:43 PM   #32
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I haven't read all the messages but I gotta ask why the Brake Warning light on the dash didn't come on?

Last edited by donnyjaguar; 10-24-2013 at 03:43 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:01 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by donnyjaguar View Post
I haven't read all the messages but I gotta ask why the Brake Warning light on the dash didn't come on?
because brakes weren't the issue. The oil level after the dealer 'changed the oil' is.
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:07 PM   #34
Garret 2010i
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lol, we'll the oil light does NOT come on it the oil is low. It's based on pressure. And the oil light doesn't come on until there is something like 7 psi. And at that point it's a your motor is ****ed and your screwed then an oil warning light.
And my light did come on for a split second, barley noticed it. And by then my motor was knocking.
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:21 AM   #35
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Haha! I guess I had more than one typo in my message. I meant Oil Pressure light. Nonetheless, I would've thought you'd still have a litre of oil circulating when the sump starts to run dry? I guess not!

Hell, my 1988 Ford told you when you were down a litre, nevermind bone dry.
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:54 PM   #36
Garret 2010i
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Yeah it's pretty stupid system, might as well not bother putting a light in at all.
For the rebuild I'm putting in a oil pressure gauge and temp gauge.

I'm sending the whole engine to Tom at TWE next week. Might as well get it built right!
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:20 AM   #37
Garret 2010i
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Just finished sending the block, and heads to Tom in Calgary. He's going to punch it out and rebuild the whole thing for me.
Port and polish the heads to better match to his pistons. 11.2 to 1 CR, 100mm bore. Sti c rods, oil pump and new hardend crank. Also time for a new clutch.
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:52 AM   #38
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How much is it going to cost to get all the work done?? And is he going to sleeve the engine?? I hear taking off that .5mm isn't the best idea. But then again Tom knows his subies NA or turbo so I have a feeling u will have quite the weapon on ur hands once u get it back.... How long is it going to be before u get the block back??
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:06 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackfang View Post
If the dealer changed your oil and forgot to add oil, the ONLY people you need to be calling is the dealer. It is a dealer mistake and dealer issue. The valve cover gasket claim is bull****. They do not leak that bad enough to cause the entire engine to lose all of the oil.
You could remove the valve cover and replace it without a gasket and it wouldn't leak as bad as they claim.
This thread is sickening. Make the dealer pay up. OP, how did you not hear the engine ticking/knocking?
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:06 AM   #40
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Double post
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:06 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr_gosetto View Post
And is he going to sleeve the engine?? I hear taking off that .5mm isn't the best idea.
Sleeve the engine for a N/A build? And I'd love to know where you've heard that doing the factory overbore isn't the best idea. I can go to the dealership and buy 100mm pistons!
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Old 11-01-2013, 12:06 PM   #42
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I'd love to know where you've heard that doing the factory overbore isn't the best idea.
Thru the researching I have done here on NASIOC. Alot of guys are saying boring out the open deck block isn't the smartest idea. I'm not saying dont do it, but that's what I have been told.
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:00 PM   #43
Garret 2010i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr_gosetto View Post
How much is it going to cost to get all the work done?? And is he going to sleeve the engine?? I hear taking off that .5mm isn't the best idea. But then again Tom knows his subies NA or turbo so I have a feeling u will have quite the weapon on ur hands once u get it back.... How long is it going to be before u get the block back??
Not as much as people think, 2500 in parts, plus another 800 in labour. Not terrible for a good high end rebuild. Going to be mid December before I get the car back on the road I figure.
As for the bore, I've never heard that either. Plus Tom says the best reason for increasing the piston size is just to get the cylinder walls super strait. That's why he bores it out. I trust him to do it right.
And it still not going to be crazy hp, I hope for at least the 230 range.
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:58 PM   #44
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I don't think you'll see cylinder pressures high enough to make sleeving worthwhile.
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:09 PM   #45
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Ok good to know guys.... And on further looking into the people suggesting not to go to the 100mm all drove wrx or stis so there cylender pressure is much much higher then we will ever see with NA builds.

And to Garrett I think u will make 230whp minimum. And also like I said if Tom says boring is a good idea it must be. IMHO I think Tom and the TWE team are the #1 NA Subaru guru u can find..... And really 3300 parts and labour for everything he is doing sounds great. Considering the long block build on the TWE web sight it about 10g and that sounds like wat ur getting. ur getting a wicked machine that will eat a stock wrx... And it cost less-same as a wrx swap.

Right on man, And wen the car is running u should defiantly dyno and post the dyno chart for all the NA subie lovers like my self..... Any chance ur getting a deal on ur build bc the dealer killed ur car or is that a build they offer all the time??
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:14 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilWagon View Post
CAI on a maf engine with no tune is bad juju... I don't blame them for denying the warranty..
Back when I didn't know any better I put intake, headers and exhaust on my MAF Tiburon with no tune (no one tunes Tiburons lol). Ran it until 107k miles before I traded it in for my WRX. The engine ran like new. Little Hyundai was a good car; never gave me any troubles. I guess I got lucky.
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:59 PM   #47
T Wrex--OH
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And to Garrett I think u will make 230whp minimum.

No way. Just no way.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:25 PM   #48
Garret 2010i
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Id like to dyno it but no awd dyno here in my town. Might use romraider, has a dyno program.
I think 230hp is possible, after it's all tuned correctly. I'm going to ask Tom what he usually see's out of this type if set up. He's done more then a few.
And pricing is pretty much what he charges, I know he gave me a discount for the pistons cuz they are the first set (for the 2.5i). I'm still hoping I have a good day in court and Subaru Canada will pay for all if this, lol.
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:18 AM   #49
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Well if ud like good horsepower Look at the thread in the NA power train section called "pressure plate suggestion" the poster ScoobyDrift has a build very similar to what I will have. He said he is putting down 254 whp. So I'd shoot him a pm and pick his brain on what he did
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:59 AM   #50
T Wrex--OH
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These WHP numbers seem astronomical for N/A 2.5's

Even on a dynojet, my mildly built/nitrous 2.5 puts down 235whp.

I'd like someone to prove me wrong, but I'm skeptic.
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