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Old 01-06-2011, 10:29 AM   #26
nhat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larkdemon View Post
You could check this thing out:

http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=213


It's a link to a brake brace, strictly for improving feel but not brake quality.

They apparently sold out pretty quick, but the site mentions a group buy on nasioc.


*cough*
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Grim...11-inc-WRX-STI
this

Quote:
Originally Posted by Power6 View Post
Uncle Scotty: d000000d you need new brakez!!

Smartguy 3: Scotty is right but he didn't have to be so mean

LowMemberNumber1: He's answered all these questions 23999292 times...
and that
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:36 PM   #27
Blue_Rex
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I wish I still had the great article I read about brake upgrades. They did drilled and slotted rotors, pads, and all sorts of stuff. The absolute best stopping change they got (which was very significant) was from performance brake pads. I think they used ceramic...If I upgrade, I will probably go with EBC.
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:11 AM   #28
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brake pedal feel in the ms3 is sublime. almost makes up for the sloppy transmission
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:36 PM   #29
Uncle Scotty
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I would bleed the brakes....put better pads on---the stoptech street performance ones are great for the price.....and mebbe get a mc brace

THAT should make the pedal feel better...but better braking is better tires
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Old 01-08-2011, 12:13 PM   #30
JTraction
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Won't SS lines improve pedal feel? They're not that expensive.
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Old 01-11-2011, 01:35 PM   #31
mesarec
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Thanks a lot guys. scotty's advice is always good. I'll give those pads and mc brace a try. Very inexpensive way out. Just street driving so don't need a lot. just enough betterness to make me go from to

I know I won't get to the MS3 brakes of . But then again I have awd now
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:33 PM   #32
DeacTheDoc
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I am moving to Germany in a few months and I'm taking my 2011 wrx. Will the stock brakes fair well on the autobahn? I kinda enjoy living so I want my brakes to work if I have to stop at 100+.

I want to do some upgrades before I leave, should brakes be one of them?
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:19 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeacTheDoc View Post
I am moving to Germany in a few months and I'm taking my 2011 wrx. Will the stock brakes fair well on the autobahn? I kinda enjoy living so I want my brakes to work if I have to stop at 100+.

I want to do some upgrades before I leave, should brakes be one of them?
no

you should upgrade the pads and the fluid
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:35 AM   #34
DeacTheDoc
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thanks
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Old 05-16-2011, 05:20 PM   #35
mctee
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I found the stock brakes in my '10 STI hugely disappointing right from day 1, too!
Very soft, deep pedal feel and the pads just don't cut it.
Further, front rotors developed vibration when hot after a 2,500kms. IE: long, high speed mtn pass-type downhills into hairpins or several medium-hard stops.

They look the part, but...

Action taken:
1) I bled the fluid w/ little to no improvement.

2) Switched to Hawk HPS (these worked OK for me in previous application). Slightly better pedal feel but these pads clunked back and forth in the claipers - very annoying!

3) Switched to Ferodo 2500's front and rear plus upgraded to DBA 5000 front rotors and DBA 4000 rear rotors. Huge improvement in pedal feel, cold bite and hot braking performance. Note: these pads do squeal at very low speed / stop&go traffic situations. Performance improvement is worth the slight squealing everyday / DD'er IMO.

4) Continued with braided stainless lines and complete fluid flush. Pedal feel is very hard, pedal remains high even when brakes are very hot, rotors are dead true. I have about 10,000kms on this set up (all winter / all weather) and I do not see any excessive rotor wear or any other signs that this set up will not deliver this performance ongoing.

I'm an ex-road racer and I am completely satisfied with this set up on an everyday/ 365 DD'er basis.
I suspect satisfactory for auto-x as well.
I will, however, swap out pads (Raybestos ST43's) for track days.

Pads & fluid flush 1st; then lines and rotors if you can afford it.
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:36 PM   #36
flycaster
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My daughter has an MS3 so I know the brakes well. I put lines, the M/C brace, and ST street pads (new fluid, too, obviously) on the '11WRX and I can say without hesitation that my car now has the much better brakes in both bite and pedal feel. The pedal is solid as a rock, and they are now true "toe tappers." Before the mods, yep, the WRX brakes felt almost scary soft and the pedal travel was unnerving - no longer.

Last edited by flycaster; 05-17-2011 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:52 AM   #37
dbrier
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The MS3 has good Ferodo pads from the factory, it helps a lot with initial bite.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:44 AM   #38
azsun
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Don't mean to thread necro, but I'm having the same "warped rotor" vibration scooby mention in post 18. I'm at 28k miles on the original everything brakes wise, not sure what the typical mileage lifetime is on em.

Was wondering if it's possible to bed the brakes with this many miles on them, or at this point best to just replace the pads and bleed/bed; the vibration scares the crap out of me! Will get it from about 80mph+

Anything else I'm missing that I should look into?
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:25 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azsun View Post
Don't mean to thread necro, but I'm having the same "warped rotor" vibration scooby mention in post 18. I'm at 28k miles on the original everything brakes wise, not sure what the typical mileage lifetime is on em.

Was wondering if it's possible to bed the brakes with this many miles on them, or at this point best to just replace the pads and bleed/bed; the vibration scares the crap out of me! Will get it from about 80mph+

Anything else I'm missing that I should look into?
You can actually re-bed the pads/rotors at any time during their life. I had old brake parts and bedded them in and it surely helped the feel a noticeable amount. It does clean off some of the deposits on the rotor.

However, depending on the extent of the 'damage' you may be looking at new pads and remachining the rotors. At 28k miles, you're probably due for new pads anyways.

Rebedding them is is free though... I'd try that. Just make sure it's on an open stretch of highway with near zero traffic. Try to avoid cop areas too... I could see them pulling you over and saying "wtf are you doing?"

... I just installed new pads/rotors at 100k and need to bed them in very soon as I have autox on Sunday. It really does help. I've done it before with new HPS pads and centric rotors too.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:31 PM   #40
azsun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmiovino View Post
You can actually re-bed the pads/rotors at any time during their life. I had old brake parts and bedded them in and it surely helped the feel a noticeable amount. It does clean off some of the deposits on the rotor.

However, depending on the extent of the 'damage' you may be looking at new pads and remachining the rotors. At 28k miles, you're probably due for new pads anyways.

Rebedding them is is free though... I'd try that. Just make sure it's on an open stretch of highway with near zero traffic. Try to avoid cop areas too... I could see them pulling you over and saying "wtf are you doing?"

... I just installed new pads/rotors at 100k and need to bed them in very soon as I have autox on Sunday. It really does help. I've done it before with new HPS pads and centric rotors too.
Awesome thanks. Know I had the rotors machined recently (dealership thought that was causing the vibration lol, love when the internet knows better ).

Will try rebedding tonight and see how it feels. If not, at least those stoptech pads are pretty reasonably priced
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:50 PM   #41
azsun
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Well they don't vibrate after rebedding, but still have to kick the pedal down pretty hard to get them to bite in. Good enough for now! Thanks for the help cmi
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:37 PM   #42
GregOrz
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What will upgrading just the brake pads do? More stopping power?

Can anyone recommend a complete upgrade package (rotors and pads) that is good for daily driver usage (no squeaking, no ridiculous brake dust deposits, and longevity (at least 30k miles+)?

I read somewhwere about the WRX having 2 pot breaks, I'm looking to do 4 pots.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:06 AM   #43
VictorOfHavoc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregOrz View Post
What will upgrading just the brake pads do? More stopping power?

Can anyone recommend a complete upgrade package (rotors and pads) that is good for daily driver usage (no squeaking, no ridiculous brake dust deposits, and longevity (at least 30k miles+)?

I read somewhwere about the WRX having 2 pot breaks, I'm looking to do 4 pots.
I got stoptech pads, stoptech ss lines, and rbf 600 fluid and the difference is stunning... slowing from 80 mph to 0 at full force I get no fade, stop strongly, and don't feel like I'm stepping on squishy balance ball. The WRX brakes are actually pretty decent for most DD and autox. The pads are really what determines how aggressive they are at stopping. Fluid and pads help fade. SS lines help that "initial bite" feel. I'm doing a cylinder brace next...

Also read the BBK FAQ on this site as it shed a ton of light and busted so many myths for me!
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:48 AM   #44
GregOrz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorOfHavoc View Post
I got stoptech pads, stoptech ss lines, and rbf 600 fluid and the difference is stunning... slowing from 80 mph to 0 at full force I get no fade, stop strongly, and don't feel like I'm stepping on squishy balance ball. The WRX brakes are actually pretty decent for most DD and autox. The pads are really what determines how aggressive they are at stopping. Fluid and pads help fade. SS lines help that "initial bite" feel. I'm doing a cylinder brace next...

Also read the BBK FAQ on this site as it shed a ton of light and busted so many myths for me!
Interesting. Good read. I am leery of even upgrading my pads after that read. I do not want noisy brakes, excessive brake dust, or accelerated disc wear. I'm thinking maybe I'll just do MC brace, brake fluid, SS lines... Unless you can tell me the stoptech pads are not noisy, not dusty and increase braking peformance.

And I am definately getting some serious wheels and tires within 2 weeks!

Last edited by GregOrz; 06-03-2013 at 03:57 AM.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:06 AM   #45
VictorOfHavoc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregOrz View Post
Interesting. Good read. I am leery of even upgrading my pads after that read. I do not want noisy brakes, excessive brake dust, or accelerated disc wear. I'm thinking maybe I'll just do MC brace, brake fluid, SS lines... Unless you can tell me the stoptech pads are not noisy, not dusty and increase braking peformance.

And I am definately getting some serious wheels and tires within 2 weeks!
There are no affordable brake pads that perform well, make no noise, and no dust. When you think about it the pad has to be broken up to transfer heat and provide friction. That being said, the stop tech to me are not noisy at all... They dust like nuts, as most do, but if you get darker or black wheels you'll never notice...

Pads really do make the biggest difference though. After doing the above mods I'll never go back!
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Old 11-04-2013, 02:14 PM   #46
fordskydog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Power6 View Post
Welcome to the Subie mush brake pedal. I am not in love with it either.

I think a set of performance pads would go a long way, they should have the friction characteristics you are looking for. Def want to bleed them as well, to make sure you have no squishiness in the pedal from air in the lines.

Do keep in mind the grabbiness of the brakes are not necessarily an indicator of overall performance, it more reflects a philosophy of how the manufacturer likes to tune their products. For example GM has been famous for sort of "showroom engineering" their throttle pedal response so the car takes off at the slightest touch. Makes it feel fast when you test drive it. The same way some think that a sensetive brake pedal means "good brakes." Not saying the WRX brakes are all that great, just some perspective to consider.
LOLZ! That's exactly like what Fender does with their amps. Most amps have an audio taper (actually a logarithmic taper pot) volume potentiometer so the ear perceives a linear response to rotating the knob. A true linear response is perceived by the ear as a lot of gain in the low numbers going to a little change in volume at the higher numbers, where an audio (log) taper pot is perceived by the ear as a nice linear response or even volume increase across the range.

So Fender puts these non-audio taper pots on their volume control. If you turn it up from 0 to 1 and then 2, the volume is incredably loud! It is like an over-sensitive gas pedal. On the amp "test drive" in the store, you're like "wow. Level 2 is really loud. So level 10 must be insanely loud!" In reality, you get a perceivable volume change up to about 4, then 4 to 10 does very little. It also messes up the sensitivity, because the knob is hyper sensitive in the range you actually use it.

For instance, I play my 65 watt amp on about 3 with a live band. If I go up to 3.25, I get yelled at that I'm an insane guitar player playing to loud, etc... I f-ing hate that. One very common mod on modern Fender amps is to replace the volume pot with an audio taper just to get the fine control back.
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:33 PM   #47
GregOrz
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I ended up doing; Perrin MC brace, Centric Rotors, Stop Tech pads, SS brake lines, and brake fluid. Brake feel improved about 75%. I'm glad I changed my rotors too because it turned out my OEM rotors were warped.
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:21 AM   #48
Uncle Scotty
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it sure is nice seeing so many get such good results from doing the simple things first
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:27 AM   #49
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
it sure is nice seeing so many get such good results from doing the simple things first
I am wanting to do some brake upgrades myself. A mc brace is one of them along with better fluid and proper sized brakes for my car...

I already have the stoptech pads just have to go from 276 rs rotors to wrx 294mm rotors and I will be fine. I have some decent stainless lines on there already along with the 290x10mm rear rotor from the 2001 outback.
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