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Old 11-06-2013, 08:24 PM   #1
GJPP
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Default ABS??? BRAKE??? FAILURE(S) Please Help!

Im not a mechanical stig so dont rip on me please :-).

After reading a few threads on the "better" ways to launch an automatic subaru I decided to give it a shot. The guys instructions were this:

1. press the brake pedal all the way down
2. keep holding the brakes, then switch to nuetral and quick rev to decompress the brakes (which it did)
3. keep holding brakes, rev to about 3500rpms then switch to D and hold on!

Well it works but now my brakes are acting like they have air in them (there all spongy and no responsive) and when I brake all the way to the floor(which is the only way they work) and push hard it almost locks upthe front left wheel. Any clues? I think its the ABS that shut itself off after doing that launch, or somehow did get air into the brakes (which doesnt make sense to me). Please help!! I hate to see my Suby out of comission!

And yes I know launching (especially automatics) is very bad for the tranny. It was a first and only time attempt, dont hate me.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:40 PM   #2
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heres the post I was reading: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f113...tomatic-30839/ scroll down to reply #2, thats what I was reading
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:46 PM   #3
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So you're doing neutral drops? Hope you don't like that trans.

Edit: Just read post 2.

Quote:
1. (left foot on brake, right on gas) At a complete stop, put the car into N.
2. Start revving until you feel the brake pedal depress. (usually a quick rev to 5k RPM does the trick)
3. WAIT until the revs drop all the way back down, and put the car back into D.
4. With your left foot still firmly planted on the brake pedal, start revving the engine. You should see RPM's climb to around 2400 rpm and stall. After 2-3 seconds it'll start rising and you should hit around 3200 RPM.
5. Once at this RPM take your foot off the brake, and hold on for dear life!
Did you do step 3? According to your post, you did not. At least the way it's read, you revved it and threw it into D(drive) and took off. Even so, that's not the best advice for "launching" an automatic.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:49 PM   #4
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Neutral drops are insanely bad for your tranny. It really gets his panties in a bunch.


Though I'm not positive why it would affect your brakes... But I'm no expert.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:59 PM   #5
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i neutral dropped it yes, and it was more of a pansy drop, I chickened out and dropped it at like 1500 rpm. like i said it was the first and last time ill be doing that
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:59 PM   #6
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bump for help lol
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:01 PM   #7
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Are you retarded? How about not doing something that will obviously hurt your car?
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:02 PM   #8
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You stressed your ABS out. Possibly disconnecting the battery terminals for a minute could get you back on track if its computer related. Gotta agree that you should steer away from neutral drops. Save the superhero antics for the snow.
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJPP View Post
bump for help lol
It's been 40 damn minutes. Don't "bump for help LOLOLOLOL" because you are breaking your car by being dumb.
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:08 PM   #10
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the emergency brake light came on and is stuck on after I used it a little bit to assist the car in stopping.. Idk if that help anyone diagnose it or not.?
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:11 PM   #11
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You do not have an EMERGENCY BRAKE. You have a PARKING BRAKE. And it should NEVER be used to stop the car in anyway. It should be used to lock the wheels during parking operations.
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:15 PM   #12
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well double ***
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:17 PM   #13
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the brake light will come on if there is a hydraulic problem with the brakes a well, like if there is air in the system. try disconnecting the battery like suggested, but you may need to bleed the brakes.
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:18 PM   #14
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ok thank you
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:23 AM   #15
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Oh dear....

First of all, if you want a better launch from your 4EAT, don't drop it into gear at high RPM. Keep doing that, and kiss your low clutch goodbye. If you want to launch at a higher RPM, you'll need to replace your torque converter with an aftermarket high-stall unit.

The "instructions" given about getting the RPM up to 2400 and then letting them creep up to 3200 are, well, rediculous. The torque converter has a rated stall speed. If the RPM go above that with your foot on the brake in gear, and the car not moving, it indicates slippage inside the trans - and that's bad.

"Revving the engine to decompress the brakes". I'm not sure what that is all about. If the brakes are on and holding, they will release when the pedal is released. Maybe, the only thing they are accomplishing is that the pedal is sinking down further due to the extreme high vacuum created when the throttle is closed after revving, and that's increasing the assist available in the brake booster.

Now, on to your issue with the brakes. You did not "stress your ABS out" as has been suggested. Think: car stopped with brakes on. Car not moving. ABS is inactive. Brakes released for 'launch'. With your foot off the brake pedal, how on earth would the ABS be stressed, since it doesn't work unless the brakes are on?

Quick brake booster check: start engine, let idle. Apply brake pedal and hold. Shut off engine. Pump brake pedal. Does the pedal come up? It should. If not, you could have an issue with the booster, or you have air in your brake system. If it does come up, keep your foot on the brake, restart car. Pedal should sink (but not to floor). If it does, booster is okay. If it goes to the floor, you have air in your brake system.

If you have air, it's best to go to a dealer to have the system bled. They will have to do both primary and secondary air bleeds to get all the air out. May as well have them flush all the old fluid out anyway and replace it with some fresh DOT 4.

EDIT: if you are using your parking brake to help you stop the car, STOP THE CAR AND DON'T DRIVE IT. Your brakes are unsafe and you're either going to crash into something or someone. Get the car towed somewhere where it can be properly diagnosed and repaired. PLEASE.

Last edited by SpamBot; 11-07-2013 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HinshawWRX View Post
It's been 40 damn minutes. Don't "bump for help LOLOLOLOL" because you are breaking your car by being dumb.
I swear NASIOC needs to implement a "Like" button. I can't stop laughing....
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:37 AM   #17
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Your parents will be so mad at you for breaking the car they just bought you.

Are you purposely trying to destroy your car?
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:45 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJPP View Post
And yes I know launching (especially automatics) is very bad for the tranny. It was a first and only time attempt, dont hate me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Napalm3nema View Post
Are you retarded? How about not doing something that will obviously hurt your car?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinnie View Post
Your parents will be so mad at you for breaking the car they just bought you.

Are you purposely trying to destroy your car?
C'mon, guys, cut him a little slack. He's young, he screwed up, he admits it, he promised not to do it again.

I can't believe I just said that.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:51 AM   #19
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Put more brake fluid in the brake resevoir

yore welcome
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stupid Dummy Head
the emergency brake light came on and is stuck on after I used it a little bit to assist the car in stopping.. Idk if that help anyone diagnose it or not.?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HinshawWRX View Post
You do not have an EMERGENCY BRAKE. You have a PARKING BRAKE. And it should NEVER be used to stop the car in anyway. It should be used to lock the wheels during parking operations.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpamBot View Post
EDIT: if you are using your parking brake to help you stop the car, STOP THE CAR AND DON'T DRIVE IT. Your brakes are unsafe and you're either going to crash into something or someone. Get the car towed somewhere where it can be properly diagnosed and repaired. PLEASE.
Gents, I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure he meant he was using the parking brake to keep the car stopped. Not stop the car while moving...
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:18 PM   #21
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^^^thank you. and I bought the car myself. Thank you for your help Spambot
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:30 AM   #22
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its was just a brake line that popped off, if anyone wanted to know. Won't be doing this again. Thanks for the help! and thanks for the criticism...seriously.
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJPP View Post
its was just a brake line that popped off, if anyone wanted to know. Won't be doing this again. Thanks for the help! and thanks for the criticism...seriously.
Brake lines don't exactly "pop off".
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:20 AM   #24
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Haha. Neutral drops, like natural selection for car owners.
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:45 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJPP View Post
its was just a brake line that popped off, if anyone wanted to know.
If it was a brake hose that popped, I would strongly suggest you have the remaining ones replaced at the same time. If one rotted badly enough to fail, the others probably aren't far behind.

If it was a steel line, have them all inspected and replaced if needed.

Either way, have a primary and secondary bleed done.
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