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Old 04-23-2010, 09:46 PM   #1
Bsudrummer
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Default Calling all inner cv boot experts!!! Need help!

Ok my inner cv boots on my '03 wrx are cracked anyone have advice on replacing those? Walkthroughs or pics would help a ton!!! Thx
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Old 04-23-2010, 10:58 PM   #2
Uncle Scotty
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Old 04-23-2010, 11:54 PM   #3
Bsudrummer
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I'm not really looking for new axels, just a walkthrough on how to replace the inner cv boots. Thanks though!
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Old 04-24-2010, 12:06 AM   #4
kpluiten
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Inners are easy as hell.

Remove axle from car.

Cut both boot bands or use a screw driver to open them.

Push the boot back off of the larger cup section.

Reach inside the cup and feel around for a thin wire ring type part that's recessed in a groove. Use your fingers or a screw driver to pull it out. Don't bend it.

Pull the axle out of the cup. Watch the bearings on the tri-lope to make sure they don't go spilling everywhere. Keep them on the tri-lope if you can. If not, take them off carefully and set aside.

Inspect everything for dirt or rust. If it's really gritty and looks worn, junk it and get a new axle. If not, continue.

Look for a c-clip on the top of the axle. This holds the tri-lobe part in place. Remove it.

Slide the tri-lobe pare off and set aside.

Remove the old boot.

Replace with new boot.

Reassemble in opposite order.

Put the band on the side with the axle shaft first. Then fill the boot with the correct amount of grease. The OEM kit comes pre-measured.

Put the other band on and rotate the joint side to side and in and out so the grease is in place.

Replace in the car.


In a nut shell. Good luck.
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Old 04-24-2010, 05:58 PM   #5
Bsudrummer
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That's alot! That really helps!
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Old 06-14-2010, 03:50 PM   #6
PghRedBean
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Is the rebuild kit a dealer part, or something I can pick up at AutoZone?
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Old 06-14-2010, 03:59 PM   #7
kpluiten
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I have used both Auto-zone kits and Dealer kits. I've found that the OEM boots seem to last longer, especially out here in the AZ heat. They are thicker and generally tougher. At this point, OEM is all I'll use as the Auto-zone ones have burned me too many times.

If you search my name, I have a TON of OEM CV boots for sale at reasonable cost. Find the one you need on my list and send me an offer.

As for the "kit", I dunno if you need to whole kit. Usually I use the OEM boot and then a high grade CV grease and a couple of the "metal zip-ties" to install. I get the grease and zip-tie parts at any local hardware store and have had no problems with them. The OEM bands work great too, but are more difficult to install.
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Old 06-14-2010, 04:05 PM   #8
kpluiten
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The zip-ties I'm talking about above are like these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=360192261217

I've found them cheap at Harbor Freight and surprisingly have had no issues with them despite the stores general approach to quality.

They are nice because they stay tight as you cinch them down. Others need a special tool (which I have, costs ~$30) to tighten them and then hold them tight while you stake or crimp them in place. Like I said, they all do the same thing, I just find the metal zip-tie ones to be very easy to use.

Good luck.
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:37 AM   #9
AfterburningTurbofan
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Don't forget that to do the outer boot, it appears you must remove the inner boot as described above so you can slide the outer boot onto the axle shaft before you put the inner boot on since only the inner side comes apart easily. I only realized this after I completed repacking and crimping the boot on the inner side.

I felt so stupid to have to pull off that lock ring again and cut off those nice new clamps. Well at least I know for next time.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:26 PM   #10
dagger108
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
Inners are easy as hell.
Remove axle from car.
Cut both boot bands or use a screw driver to open them.
Push the boot back off of the larger cup section.
Reach inside the cup and feel around for a thin wire ring type part that's recessed in a groove. Use your fingers or a screw driver to pull it out. Don't bend it.
Pull the axle out of the cup. Watch the bearings on the tri-lope to make sure they don't go spilling everywhere. Keep them on the tri-lope if you can. If not, take them off carefully and set aside.
Inspect everything for dirt or rust. If it's really gritty and looks worn, junk it and get a new axle. If not, continue.
Look for a c-clip on the top of the axle. This holds the tri-lobe part in place. Remove it.
Slide the tri-lobe pare off and set aside.
Remove the old boot.
Replace with new boot.
Reassemble in opposite order.
Put the band on the side with the axle shaft first. Then fill the boot with the correct amount of grease. The OEM kit comes pre-measured.
Put the other band on and rotate the joint side to side and in and out so the grease is in place.
Replace in the car.
Back from the dead because the comments above were vital for me. The thin wire ring inside the cup is the whole key to the game for the inner CV. Everything else is simple and obvious. I practiced on the first, and took pix on the 2nd that I will try to post later for reference for other newb's in the future.

Unfortunately, I'm rather stuck on the outer CV joint. I've got both boots off, and one joint is even completely clean. I don't see any clips or wires to remove. I've tried hitting it with a 3 lb dead blow mallet, but no luck though I'm not certain I was hitting the right part.

As I look down on it, there is the drive shaft, inner race, outer race/balls, CV shell. I was pulling down on the shell while hitting it with the dead blow hammer. Do I need to do something different?
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Old 11-30-2013, 03:59 AM   #11
dagger108
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Default CV Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by dagger108 View Post
Back from the dead because the comments above were vital for me. The thin wire ring inside the cup is the whole key to the game for the inner CV. Everything else is simple and obvious. I practiced on the first, and took pix on the 2nd that I will try to post later for reference for other newb's in the future.

Unfortunately, I'm rather stuck on the outer CV joint. I've got both boots off, and one joint is even completely clean. I don't see any clips or wires to remove. I've tried hitting it with a 3 lb dead blow mallet, but no luck though I'm not certain I was hitting the right part.

As I look down on it, there is the drive shaft, inner race, outer race/balls, CV shell. I was pulling down on the shell while hitting it with the dead blow hammer. Do I need to do something different?
For someone's future reference, this is how I achieved separation:
Without a metal shop vise, I was having trouble adequately bracing the axle to receive the impact of the dead blow. Noticing a narrower area of the axle, I slipped a 7/8" open end wrench around the axle at the narrow spot, and supported the set-up on a basic wooden shop table. I then placed a 26 mm open end wrench around the full axle next to the bearing races. This gave me a solid surface to impact without actually hitting the bearings. A few whacks, and the outer joint pops off with a wire in the groove at the end of the axle.

I then cleaned the joint with a progression of mineral spirits, engine cleaner, brake cleaner. Apply, swish around, pour out excess, the use compressed air to blow out as much as possible. It took quite a few applications with the mineral spirits, several applications with the engine cleaner, and just a couple with the brake cleaner.

Then it is just place the boots and clamps on the axle, fill the joint with grease, align the wires in the grooves, and clamp the boots in place. Fairly easy if you look/get past the couple places I got stuck, which unfortunately isn't real uncommon for this newb.

If new, quality axles were available, I'd definitely rec that swap. Having seen the inside of my very lightly used cv joint, buying a reman would be my last, desperation option.
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