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Old 11-15-2013, 08:34 AM   #26
Mr.Blue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fivestringslinger View Post
Trouble codes don't "hide". They're not sneaky little electronic gremlins hiding in your car waiting to pop up and ruin your day. And not having any stored in the ECU tells you next to nothing about an engine's health. That's not a Subaru thing, it's an OBD-2 thing. Any USDM vehicle from 1996 to present functions the same way. If all of the readiness monitors have run and passed, there's either a DTC set (which triggers the MIL) or there's not. There could be a "pending" trouble code in certain cases, which means that the ECU has seen a system functioning outside normal, allowed parameters and is waiting for another test cycle to see it occur again before triggering the MIL. There may also be history codes. Those are codes that have set and weren't manually cleared/reset. Once the ECU sees a system functioning normally through an appropriate number of test cycles, it automatically clears the DTC, turns off the MIL, and stores the code in history. "Scanning" your ECU for codes is NOT a magic indicator of an engine's health. Period. Your ECU couldn't care less if you were sending your main bearings into geosynchronous orbit, or low on oil, or hemorrhaging every fluid in your car all over the ground. A trouble code will ONLY set in the case that a malfunction within the fuel, ignition or emissions control system is causing the vehicle to output greater than the federally allowed emissions standards. If it's not polluting, or might cause it to pollute, the ECU doesn't care. I can't tell you how many times in my past life as an automotive service writer (8+ years, thank you) I've had customers come in with a HORRIFIC knocking noise coming from their engine, only to have them say to me: "Well... The check engine light wasn't on, so I just figured everything was okay." So when you plug in and see "No Codes Stored" don't just assume that's the all clear to go out and flog your car. Stop spreading myths and misinformation. If you go to your tuner and tell him you're looking for 500hp out of a 2.0, he's probably going to laugh at you, or his eyes are going to spin around in his head and turn into $-symbols. Be prepared for that. You're going to have to: a) Tear the 2.0 down again and build the snot out of it, plus spend a heartbreaking amount of money on parts. b) Do an STi swap or a hybrid build - and then spend a heartbreaking amount of money on parts. There's a really well written sticky in the Newbie/FAQ forum: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1393580 <--- Read it, and then reconsider your goals.


Yeah I was looking into a 500hp hybrid swap, or just an sti build...I never wanted to achieve that amount of power with the 2.0. I understand I will have to spend alot of $$$ haha. I was just sayin i'm gonna go talk to my tuner about what he recommends on how I should go about gettin to that power level(with a hybrid or full 2.5 swap).
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:04 PM   #27
Flickyourbic
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Yeah if you want budget and 500whp... go with a DSM. Seriously... lol.
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:10 PM   #28
Mr.Blue
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Originally Posted by Flickyourbic View Post
Yeah if you want budget and 500whp... go with a DSM. Seriously... lol.
I dont really have a budget...i'm just goin to buy all the parts and then take it to the shop when im ready for install
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:20 PM   #29
UnknownAlly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Blue View Post
Also I dont know if it's just the app or what but half the time I use the search on here it doesnt provide me with useful info/displays threads that arent even related to the topic I searched.
I have the same problem with the app. NASIOC, fix that $h17
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:46 PM   #30
HinshawWRX
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Because the NASIOC App is crap. It's a known thing, and currently the forum does not want to pay to make a truly dedicated app.

With that, any modern smart phone can display the website on any mobile browser with full usability.
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:42 PM   #31
Hondaslayer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freshy55 View Post
Any port in a storm. Of course one would join a website where inexpensive used parts are sold and information about common problems is readily available. Doesn't make it an overly well done site.

Anyways, i was more so taking a swipe at the arrogance commonly seen in you moderators. Being a dick to someone who made a small mistake in a post location is unwarranted and childish.
Yawn

Go check out other car forums, then come back and let us know if you still feel the same way.

Subaruforester.org used to be great, then they were bought by automotiveforums and went to crap.

Offroadsubarus is still good, but very low traffic.

USMB is great, but still low traffic. Tech forums are geared towards NA EJ's, pretty much forget about turbocharged applications.

VWVortex Yeah, no

TheSamba.com It's like if NASIOC OT ran the tech forums. Extremely elitist members. Your choice is either bone stock or hella flush brotard. The pinnacle of automotive elelctronics is the Bosch L-Jet (according to them) People that were once considered Gods are now shunned because they stopped doing performance AC engines and are now doing Subaru swaps

Those are just forums that I frequent, I have been to many others and always come back to NASIOC.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:58 PM   #32
UnknownAlly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondaslayer View Post
Yawn Go check out other car forums, then come back and let us know if you still feel the same way. Subaruforester.org used to be great, then they were bought by automotiveforums and went to crap. Offroadsubarus is still good, but very low traffic. USMB is great, but still low traffic. Tech forums are geared towards NA EJ's, pretty much forget about turbocharged applications. VWVortex Yeah, no TheSamba.com It's like if NASIOC OT ran the tech forums. Extremely elitist members. Your choice is either bone stock or hella flush brotard. The pinnacle of automotive elelctronics is the Bosch L-Jet (according to them) People that were once considered Gods are now shunned because they stopped doing performance AC engines and are now doing Subaru swaps Those are just forums that I frequent, I have been to many others and always come back to NASIOC.
I love clubwrx, wrxtuners, iwsti and NASIOC. My favorite is NASIOC. WRXtuners and clubwrx ate great because it is geared towards the WRX non STI. It has only a fraction of the traffic of NASIOC, but that small active group are really down-to-earth and are very helpful. Wish it had more members online.

iWSTi is a great forum but it is more geared to STIs

NASIOC is the most useful even though you have to be prepared to get banned. Nazis lol
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:00 PM   #33
BuckwildWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fivestringslinger View Post
Trouble codes don't "hide". They're not sneaky little electronic gremlins hiding in your car waiting to pop up and ruin your day. And not having any stored in the ECU tells you next to nothing about an engine's health.

That's not a Subaru thing, it's an OBD-2 thing. Any USDM vehicle from 1996 to present functions the same way.

If all of the readiness monitors have run and passed, there's either a DTC set (which triggers the MIL) or there's not. There could be a "pending" trouble code in certain cases, which means that the ECU has seen a system functioning outside normal, allowed parameters and is waiting for another test cycle to see it occur again before triggering the MIL. There may also be history codes. Those are codes that have set and weren't manually cleared/reset. Once the ECU sees a system functioning normally through an appropriate number of test cycles, it automatically clears the DTC, turns off the MIL, and stores the code in history.

"Scanning" your ECU for codes is NOT a magic indicator of an engine's health. Period. Your ECU couldn't care less if you were sending your main bearings into geosynchronous orbit, or low on oil, or hemorrhaging every fluid in your car all over the ground. A trouble code will ONLY set in the case that a malfunction within the fuel, ignition or emissions control system is causing the vehicle to output greater than the federally allowed emissions standards. If it's not polluting, or might cause it to pollute, the ECU doesn't care.

I can't tell you how many times in my past life as an automotive service writer (8+ years, thank you) I've had customers come in with a HORRIFIC knocking noise coming from their engine, only to have them say to me: "Well... The check engine light wasn't on, so I just figured everything was okay."

So when you plug in and see "No Codes Stored" don't just assume that's the all clear to go out and flog your car. Stop spreading myths and misinformation.



If you go to your tuner and tell him you're looking for 500hp out of a 2.0, he's probably going to laugh at you, or his eyes are going to spin around in his head and turn into $-symbols. Be prepared for that.

You're going to have to:
a) Tear the 2.0 down again and build the snot out of it, plus spend a heartbreaking amount of money on parts.
b) Do an STi swap or a hybrid build - and then spend a heartbreaking amount of money on parts.

There's a really well written sticky in the Newbie/FAQ forum: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1393580 <--- Read it, and then reconsider your goals.
The reason I say this is that I have bought a car that someone pulled the cel bulb and I didn't realize it till the car started to act up. I scanned it and threw a bunch of codes. Usually the first thing I do and check for any pending or temporary codes. I guess I could have been more specific.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:17 PM   #34
fivestringslinger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckwildWRX View Post
The reason I say this is that I have bought a car that someone pulled the cel bulb and I didn't realize it till the car started to act up. I scanned it and threw a bunch of codes. Usually the first thing I do and check for any pending or temporary codes. I guess I could have been more specific.
Fair enough. Sorry about the rant - Bad day.

Also why it's important when buying a car to make sure the CEL comes on when you turn the ignition on, then goes out again. Seen that trick played by some shady sellers before. It's also cause to fail emissions here in CT to not have a working CEL.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:41 AM   #35
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Blue View Post
Thats true. The guy was very honest though, he was an older guy and he has done body work and repairs now for I think 26 years... But thats why I'm taking it over to the tuner to see if anything might be off and also to get some advice on which route I need to take to get to 500hp which is my overall goal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Blue View Post
I dont really have a budget...i'm just goin to buy all the parts and then take it to the shop when im ready for install

that;s good....

500 hp will cost you at VERY LEAST, $50k to be reliable....and that is if you do the work yourself...you will need a fully built, sleeved block....and stroked would be nice....and a full 6mt driveline or a 5mt full straight cut dog box and r180 rearend

and no less than $50k

ya wasting yer time with a bugeye as a starting point...total and complete waste of time
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:41 AM   #36
BuckwildWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fivestringslinger View Post
Fair enough. Sorry about the rant - Bad day. Also why it's important when buying a car to make sure the CEL comes on when you turn the ignition on, then goes out again. Seen that trick played by some shady sellers before. It's also cause to fail emissions here in CT to not have a working CEL.
I'm still semi young, greenhorn what what have you. I'm bad about test driving a car I have always wanted then taking it home no matter what. I'm still learning from previous errors.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:32 PM   #37
Mr.Blue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
that;s good.... 500 hp will cost you at VERY LEAST, $50k to be reliable....and that is if you do the work yourself...you will need a fully built, sleeved block....and stroked would be nice....and a full 6mt driveline or a 5mt full straight cut dog box and r180 rearend and no less than $50k ya wasting yer time with a bugeye as a starting point...total and complete waste of time
I was planning on doing a hybrid swap next spring or summer with built internals, r180 and a 6mt. This car isnt my daily driver though, more of a wknd car...I'll just see where the build takes me, might end up being content with 400hp who knows.
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