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Old 08-17-2011, 01:30 PM   #26
GrimmSpeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scikoticWagon View Post
the gap that was there is not there anymore, its closed up and if there is any gap its like a tenth of a millimeter then lol
Hmm that is a good thing, but I am not sure how it just "closes up" with some exhaust suit. Maybe it just appeared gaped before? Either way its a good thing!

We do not usually see issues like this so whenever someone has an issue we try and understand it immediately to correct it. In this case OP if you ever have issues you let us know, but it sounds like its all clear sailing from here!

Will
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:57 AM   #27
CincyBearcats
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NASIOC noobie (who struggles with wrench turning) here, so go easy on me!

I installed the Grimmspeed up-pipe in my '02 WRX (130k miles) over the weekend (while pulling the tranny to replace my original clutch).

During moderate to heavy acceleration, I get a very loud rattle/grumble in front of the right (passenger in the U.S.) footwell and fail to reach max turbo boost (0.09-MPa for the stock turbo). During engine braking, I get a subtle, constant drone.

With the transmission out, I removed the turbo and extracted the up-pipe through the top of the engine bay. Therefore, I did not loosen any of the exhaust manifold or cross-pipe, just the two ends of the up-pipe. Last night, I took all the heat shields off and re-tightened the bolts on each end of the up-pipe (I could only reach 4 of the 5 bolts on the turbo end) and down-pipe. Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem.

I know it's difficult to hear with the poor upload quality, but I threw a quick video on YouTube:

Do you guys have any ideas? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

My car is mostly stock. Just these mods:
Grimmspeed catless up-pipe (with Grimmspeed gaskets)
ACT clutch kit - HD-M/Perf Street Sprung
ACT flywheel - StreetLite
Cardone front CV axle (both)
Mishimoto aluminum radiator (OEM plastic radiator cracked)
Mishimoto radiator hoses
Mishimoto ancillary hoses
Mishimoto intercooler hoses
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Old 11-01-2013, 12:06 PM   #28
silverbulletwagon
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I installed a cobb uppipe a couple of months ago. mine was making the same sound. I was actually in such a hurry to get it back together that I forgot to tighten down the exhaust manifold on the right side! LOL, it was just loose enough, and I was getting the same type of fluttering noise! I doubt that is your problem though!
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Old 11-01-2013, 12:32 PM   #29
CincyBearcats
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Thanks for the response! So, did yours sound normal once you tightened the manifold bolts which you had forgotten? My next idea is to pull the down-pipe and turbo again (a pain in the butt), completely loosen all the up-pipe bolts, and try reseating the gaskets.
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Old 11-02-2013, 11:03 PM   #30
IdahoTrey
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I know its been said already by both Ernest and BlazeRex, but it sounds to me like its simply wastegate flutter considering it only happens at WOT. Assuming you installed Grimmspeed's EWG up pipe not their plain up pipe of course...
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Old 11-03-2013, 01:11 PM   #31
CincyBearcats
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So, it turns out that I have two problems.

1. Grimmspeed catless up-pipe is rattling against the engine cradle just behind it. The clearance there is tiny, and the rattle is loud because it's metal against metal. I temporarily wedged a piece of wood between the up-pipe and the engine cradle, and the sound completely disappeared. I took the wood shim out, and the sound came right back.

2. I had accidentally thrown out the waste gate restrictor pill. The hose tore while removing the turbo, and I replaced the hose not knowing there was a pill inside. I replace the pill and my turbo boost is back to normal.

Any ideas on keeping the up-pipe from rattling against the engine cradle? At 130k miles, are my engine mounts so worn that the pipe is closer than it should be? Can I shim the engine mounts somehow instead of replacing them?
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:06 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CincyBearcats View Post
Any ideas on keeping the up-pipe from rattling against the engine cradle? At 130k miles, are my engine mounts so worn that the pipe is closer than it should be? Can I shim the engine mounts somehow instead of replacing them?
Sometimes, issues like this can be resolved simply by loosening up all the connecting bolts, re-aligning the part, and then resecuring the bolts. It wouldn't take much additional space to resolve the issue.

If that doesn't work, contact Grimmspeed and discuss the issue with them. You may have inadvertently received the wrong part,

Grimmspeed Customer Service is excellent
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:17 AM   #33
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double post removed
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:56 AM   #34
CincyBearcats
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I had a very similar idea and did just that over the weekend. At the time, I was thinking that I had an exhaust leak at one of the up-pipe flanges. Now the rattle occurs all the time, even at idle. Earlier, as can be heard in the video link above, the rattle only happened during moderate to heavy acceleration.

Is there a way to shim the engine mounts? Or do I just have to replace the engine mounts? If I use a jack to slightly lift the engine by the oil pan and then immediately start the engine after removing the jack, the rattle disappears briefly (10-min of driving).
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:54 AM   #35
Samurai Jack
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First of all, don't lift the engine by the oil pan, unless of course you want to damage the pan, and the oil pick-up inside.

Are you sure the rattle is caused by the uppipe, and not by the downpipe? Just make sure the downpipe isn't rubbing from not being properly tightened.

I've never heard of anyone shimming the engine mounts, but it is possible if that's what you want to do.

You will need some type of washers/metal strapping (with holes) large enough to fit over the engine mount bolt that passes through the frame, and stack them thick enough to get the clearance you think you need.

If you do that, you have to consider any clearance issues from raising the motor up with the washers installed.

To install the washers, you are going to have to raise the motor up high enough for the engine mounts to clear the frame.

If it was me, considering all the effort to do this, I would just replace the motor mounts.

I would consider these:http://turninconcepts.com/product_in...roducts_id=619

if you are sure this is the issue
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:17 AM   #36
CincyBearcats
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Thanks for all the info!

I was extremely careful when supporting the engine with the oil pan. Very little force. Just enough to let the engine temporarily settle in a slightly different position.

The downpipe is still stock and went back in smoothly. The bolts lined up nicely at the flange and at the mounting bracket. I briefly ran the car without any of the heat shields to make sure one of those wasn't the source of the rattle.

If shimming the engine mounts is just as difficult as replacing them, then I agree that it would be best to just replace them. After spending two weekends under the car, however, I'm not super keen on climbing under it again.

I'm not 100% sure that this is my issue. There's always a chance that it's something which has been overlooked. However, I have loosened and re-tightened both ends of the up-pipe and downpipe. Wedging a thin wooden shim between the up-pipe and the engine cradle made the rattle temporarily disappear. I've used soap and bubbles with the engine idling cold and do not see any evidence of an exhaust leak (this helped me find a slight leak at the O2 sensor, BTW).

Last edited by CincyBearcats; 11-05-2013 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:14 AM   #37
Samurai Jack
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That looks like some pretty slim clearance

There is always a chance something was overlooked, but given the fact that the rattling goes away when you lodge a piece of wood between the uppipe and the cradle, it clearly points to this as being the issue. Just depends on why the issue is really there.

If you want to really narrow it down, here is somethng you can do:
1. Secure the car on jackstand/ramps
2. Start car
3. Crawl under car and listen to/follow the noise
4. Slowly insert wood shim into space between the uppipe and cradle and listen to see if this is really causing the change in noise
5 If YES, then you have the issue isolated.

As long as you properly secured the car, you won;t have any issues. I've done this multiple times to track down noise issues under the car.

Remember, you're not racing the engine; It's either idling or someone is slightly pressing the gas pedal to produce the noise

So -
Since these are probably your original motor mounts, I'd change them if it were me anyway

Once changed, you can see the difference in gaps between the uppipe and the cradle

If you still have the same rattling after the changing the motor mounts, and the gap hasn't changed, then you have one of two issues:
1. The uppipe has an issue with the bend in the uppipe
2. You have the wrong model uppipe for your car

If the gap has grown larger, and you still have the noise:
1. You have a different issue than you thought
2. Something else besides the rattling of the uppipe against the cradle is creating the issue
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:03 AM   #38
CincyBearcats
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Thanks again for all the help. I ordered new engine mounts (Group N), so hopefully that resolves my issue. You're right, though. It could be a different issue which I'm overlooking. Seriously, though, thank a ton for all the tips.
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:52 PM   #39
silverbulletwagon
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I installed a cobb uppipe and shortly after started to get waste gate flutter, then that stopped without me doing anything. now the boost pressure pressure climbs to 16 then drops to 10psi and just keeps climbing and dropping while under boost? good luck!
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:07 AM   #40
CincyBearcats
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Just wanted to follow up with my issue. Replacing the engine mounts with Group N mounts fixed my issue. With the old mounts, I had barely enough clearance to slide a sheet of paper between the GS up pipe and the engine sub frame. After replacing the engine mounts, there is now over 1/2" gap between the two. My original turbo side engine mount was 3/8" thinner than the replacement one. The non-turbo side had only a 1/4" difference. Even though the turbo side mount has an extra sheet of metal for heat protection, the rubber still gets hammered over time. For reference, my car has 120k miles.

Thanks again for all the help from everyone!
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