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Old 11-27-2013, 08:41 PM   #7776
Vlad
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it's telling you to change the belt at 100 000 Km.
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:41 PM   #7777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubNub View Post
Could mean it's had a timing belt change. Usually this is an interval sticker to indicate the belt change.
Cool. So i probably did an unnecessary timing belt change then
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:05 PM   #7778
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Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
Cool. So i probably did an unnecessary timing belt change then
Nah, it's always a good idea with this type of engine swap. You never quite have all the details on the motor history in most cases. I'm glad I did one, the exhaust cam gear was chipped so I replaced it.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:07 AM   #7779
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Originally Posted by johnfelstead View Post

If you are using a V6 MAF sensor then don't clean it! They are very sensitive and fail easily. Don't use an oiled air filter, that will kill the MAF, always use a dry filter, the genuine STi Group N filter is the best I have used for a MY99/00 MAF.

You wont get a CEL when the sensor starts to deteriorate, the fuel tables compensate at idle to keep the engine running, but outside the closed loop range the engine will be running lean.

Get the car up to temperature, let it idle, disconnect the MAF, if it continues to run the MAF sensor is most likely knackered. If it stalls then it may be your Lambda sensor that's died. Once you disconnect the MAF you may then get a CEL thrown, you can clear that with a battery disconnect if you don't have the ability to do an ECU reset.

V5/V6 MAF's are not very robust, they fail slowly and make the car run lean, they were a major cause of engine failures due to lean running under load. It's not a bad idea to treat it as a service item and change it every 20K miles. They are cheap, you can buy the sensor separate from its housing. Some dealers will try and sell the housing, just buy the sensor, should cost about $100.
So I can get the v5/v6 maf from a Subaru dealer? There I not another maf that's the same as that one that I can use. Say a usdm motor or anything... I tried using my buddy's maf sensor from his 2.5rs. That appeared to not work. The car started running so rich that when I get in boost it smokes like a Diesel and my fuel consumption was through the roof so I unplugged it and now the car is just sitting.
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:12 PM   #7780
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So I am about to pull the trigger on a Ver8/6speed swap into my car. I would like the drive-ability to be good so I am wanting a US spec gear ratios. Does anyone know if a Ver8 trans can have US specB or STi 5th and 6th gears put in to make the RPMs on the highway not be 4K @60mph? I had a buddy that has a Ver7 non DCCD sti trans and he tried the same and i guess things did not line up so he couldnt. Any help would be great as I can find some decent deals on motors/trans together.

thanks
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:31 PM   #7781
Paul
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To add the specB long gears to a V7 6speed you have to replace a ton of other parts ontop of 5th/6th. I just had rallispec do it for me so If you want the part list pm me.

FYi: Cruising on highway in 6th is more like 4k @80mph in the V7 6speed
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:33 PM   #7782
04jaxwrex
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thanks but im looking at a ver8 motor and trans!
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Old 11-29-2013, 01:57 PM   #7783
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Sounds like too much work involved unless the jdm trans was a steal. Just buy a used usdm trans.
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:49 AM   #7784
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Gents, I'm looking to get a little info out of you guys... I'm hoping someone can give me some insight...

So I just finished my engine swap last night into my 98 GC STi, I ended up getting another 207 but "upgraded" to the gdb setup... Long story short is that I'm noticing a MUCH stiffer gas pedal... I was wondering if anyone had any input. I spoke to my busy Rich because he did the same thing, but I'm looking for more sources. Thanks guys
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:31 PM   #7785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeskywrx View Post
Hey I just want to throw this out there for you guys, since so many people are running non-matching ECUs. There are two different MAP sensors on these motors and ECUs. Make sure you are setup for the proper sensor otherwise you will be running ~2.3 psi higher or lower than you think. On an unrelated side note the VF36 feels amazing on E85 at 26 Psi

USDM 02-05 WRX 2.8 BAR sensor
JDM v7-v8 01-04 2.8 BAR sensor
JDM v9 05+ 3.0 BAR sensor

2.8 BAR Multiplier=9.943 Offset=-8.005
3.0 BAR Multiplier=9.943 Offset=-5.666
Bringing this post back for a moment to add something and to ask some questions.

If you are rescaling the offset for a 3.0 BAR AA260 Denso Map Sensor as indicated above, I believe you should also change the MAP Sensor High High/Low Input CEL values to match the factory ROM.

From my research, the values are:

05 A4TJ121B JDM ECU (3 BAR) High Input CEL: 4.94v
03 A4TE002B JDM ECU (2.8 BAR) High Input CEL: 4.93v

05 A4TJ121B JDM ECU (3 BAR) Low Input CEL: 0.56v
03 A4TE002B JDM ECU (2.8 BAR) Low Input CEL: 0.70v

Long story short, as alluded to in your post, I'm running a mismatched V8 ECU/V9Engine. Coincidentally, since I wanted to keep my cruise control, the shop that did the swap moved over my MY04 USDM WRX throttle body and left the AA170 (2.8 BAR) sensor on the TB (by mistake I'm sure). This worked out ok because I'm running a MY03 JDM STI ECU so the USDM map sensor was seemingly scaled appropriately in the factory ECU calibration.

Besides the ability to read boost above 24PSI (which I'm not likely to ever do), is there any other benefit to swapping in the AA260 3.0 BAR MAP sensor and rescaling the ECU values to match? Judging by the CEL high/low values, it seems that the 3.0 BAR Denso sensor more range in both directions?

Pardon my ignorance here as I'm not clear on all the things the ECU references the MAP sensor for but I believe closed loop idle control is one right? So would there be any improvements in idle control by using the 3.0 BAR sensor?

Based on logs, it seems like I'm switching into OL at times when I let off of the gas (after cruising in CL that is). I'm still (slowly) learning about tuning so there may be a totally logical and unrelated (to the MAP sensor) reason for this. Got me thinking about the MAP sensor and if it has any effect on this.

Last edited by SubNub; 12-03-2013 at 06:05 PM. Reason: Edit: Originally listed AA280 but the part may actually be AA260.
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:26 PM   #7786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubNub View Post
Pardon my ignorance here as I'm not clear on all the things the ECU references the MAP sensor for but I believe closed loop idle control is one right? So would there be any improvements in idle control by using the 3.0 BAR sensor?
in closed loop, the ecu references the MAP sensor for manifold absolute pressure, this will help the ecu determine and control the wg solenoid signal during cruising. There shouldn't be any improvements in otherwise normal cruising if going with the higher BAR rated sensor.

btw, do you have the full part number of the factory 3.0 bar sensor?
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:02 PM   #7787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
in closed loop, the ecu references the MAP sensor for manifold absolute pressure, this will help the ecu determine and control the wg solenoid signal during cruising. There shouldn't be any improvements in otherwise normal cruising if going with the higher BAR rated sensor.

btw, do you have the full part number of the factory 3.0 bar sensor?
Makes sense, I just figured it seems like the 3 bar sensor may be capable of reading lower values/voltages too so it may be more accurate. More accurate may mean better control. Maybe I'll have to try it out.

The 3 Bar sensor has the part number kind of etched into the plastic and it's MUCH harder to read than the high contrast sticker version on the USDM sensor. I can post pictures if helpful but here are what I read on the parts I have in hand:

MY04 USDM WRX 2.8 BAR Part# 22627AA170
MY06 JDM WRX STI 3 BAR Part# 22627AA260
*The AA260 looks like AA280. It seems like it may be referenced as an AA280 sensor as I have mistakenly done too. I've seen it listed as AA280 on reference charts. I'm going back to correct my previous post...

Last edited by SubNub; 12-03-2013 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:22 PM   #7788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubNub View Post
Makes sense, I just figured it seems like the 3 bar sensor may be capable of reading lower values/voltages too so it may be more accurate. More accurate may mean better control. Maybe I'll have to try it out.
.
The 3bar is just as capable of reading lower voltages but i'm not sure on accuracy. Typically if you go bigger, you will lose resolution, so calibration of it makes it that much more important for reading on the lower part of the scale.

thanks for the part number, now i need a drink after looking up the price.
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:23 PM   #7789
mrxr250rider
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How does this motor setup sound? Jdm v6 motor,ej205 manifold and ecu? I may be buying a wrecked wrx with this motor to part out. Owner says the motor is clean and runs better than the old 205 that made 250whp
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:26 PM   #7790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modollenroc View Post
So I can get the v5/v6 maf from a Subaru dealer? There I not another maf that's the same as that one that I can use. Say a usdm motor or anything... I tried using my buddy's maf sensor from his 2.5rs. That appeared to not work. The car started running so rich that when I get in boost it smokes like a Diesel and my fuel consumption was through the roof so I unplugged it and now the car is just sitting.
Yes, you should be able to, its the same sensor as fitted to the Turbo 2000 GC8. I guess you guys didn't have that car though.

Part number is 22794AA010
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:27 PM   #7791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
The 3bar is just as capable of reading lower voltages but i'm not sure on accuracy. Typically if you go bigger, you will lose resolution, so calibration of it makes it that much more important for reading on the lower part of the scale.

thanks for the part number, now i need a drink after looking up the price.
Well, that was half of why I was asking if there was any benefit to using it. I bet I could fetch a decent price on selling it to someone who needed the headroom (it would be nice to recoup some of the money I've put into this swap haha).

I think I'll try it out and rescale the offset first. See how it runs.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:33 AM   #7792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
why would I find oil build up around the outside of my oil pan but no leak? like residue but no dripping.
Right side valve cover gasket leaking? I'm having the same problem. I thought it was my power steering lines, but it's the valve cover gasket, or something on the valve cover. Haven't looked any closer than to run my fingers along the bottom of the valve cover and finding fresh oil on my hand.
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:20 PM   #7793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrxr250rider View Post
How does this motor setup sound? Jdm v6 motor,ej205 manifold and ecu? I may be buying a wrecked wrx with this motor to part out. Owner says the motor is clean and runs better than the old 205 that made 250whp
In general I tend to avoid hybrids like this , But if its running well then I would give it a try.
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:46 PM   #7794
mrxr250rider
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I'd just be parting it since I already have a 207. But seems like an ok setup that's an upgrade over the 205
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:06 PM   #7795
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Can't find the post LOL.

But how can leaking valve covers cause oil to go onto my oil pan?
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:04 PM   #7796
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gravity
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:17 PM   #7797
IA Performance
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I've seen leaking front main seals do the same, as well as leaking P/S pumps. I'd start looking at the oil pan, then upwards to find the source. As johnfelstead pointed out, there will be a trail of oil due to gravity. You'll eventually find the issue. It may require removal of the front timing covers (all 3). you can then see if any of the cam shaft seals are leaking.

Stephen
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Old 12-10-2013, 01:01 AM   #7798
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so I'm looking for a ver.8/9 nitrated crankshaft, i know the part number is 12200AA270. I'm not having any luck find one so can anyone possibly point me in the rite direction?
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Old 12-10-2013, 01:42 AM   #7799
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we should be able to get the part for you. I'll have a quote sent over within the next 24 hours.

Stephen
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Old 12-10-2013, 01:44 AM   #7800
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we should be able to get the part for you. I'll have a quote sent over within the next 24 hours.

Stephen
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thanks
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