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Old 11-09-2013, 07:52 AM   #151
Vlad
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Qft

Thanks for the input Dave. Looks like I might be purchasing one of your short blocks once/if my stock grb v10 207 get to 25,000kms

Mick
How is it holding so far, Mick?
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Old 11-09-2013, 09:22 AM   #152
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It's holding well Vlad

By no means was I predicting the worst or anything like that. I guess I'm just realistic about how long it will last in stock form at this power level. So planning ahead. Would love to have similar specs but stronger rods/ pistons and bearings but more importantlu with the right clearances for a high strung motor. Then I can lean on it boost wise to say 35/36psi and chase well over 400awkw (600whp)

Really loving it although as mentioned earlier, I'm disappointed with the atp housing for response / transient boost.

Boost threshold is 1900rpm in second / third, but doesn't reach full boost in third until 4500-4700 depending on how hot the headers are.

Will be changing to Garrett housing shortly and hoping to improve this

Mick
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:53 AM   #153
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You know, you could look into buying a factory low-mount turbo setup (manifold without turbo), from a recent Legacy, then starting the large turbo build from there?
The manifold and oil-water lines seem so well modular designed, it almost looks like you're buying a complete, ready-to-run assembly.
I think it's twinscroll OEM too.

Also, they have to come out used, every now and then, it can't be too expensive.

Something like that, I can see spooling a nice size turbo quickly.
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:54 PM   #154
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Its definitely a consideration down the track, but I'm confident the new housing will do the trick to improving response and transient recovery, which are the two things lacking at the moment

When it comes on though at 4500rpm full boost, a 4000rpm power band is quite solid

The heads on this engine flow amazingly - its hard to describe the rush. Feels like a 2.5 with 270 cams and ported heads, yet smoother on the revs which are effortless.

I am hopefully more people will follow this path eventually.

The only thing I would do if I do grab a rallispec block will be kelford custom dual avcs cams to increase lift and slight increase in duration whilst retaining lobe separation to keep broad powerband.
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Old 11-10-2013, 12:41 PM   #155
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Originally Posted by dr20t View Post
Its definitely a consideration down the track, but I'm confident the new housing will do the trick to improving response and transient recovery, which are the two things lacking at the moment

When it comes on though at 4500rpm full boost, a 4000rpm power band is quite solid

The heads on this engine flow amazingly - its hard to describe the rush. Feels like a 2.5 with 270 cams and ported heads, yet smoother on the revs which are effortless.

I am hopefully more people will follow this path eventually.

The only thing I would do if I do grab a rallispec block will be kelford custom dual avcs cams to increase lift and slight increase in duration whilst retaining lobe separation to keep broad powerband.
Not sure if kelford make cams for the Jdm grb sti 2.0L, afaik it's only tomei and jun tha that make cams for your motor. Kelfords only have listed cams for the grb 2.5L motors.
Martin.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:56 AM   #156
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Marty - kelford do make an ej207 cam but they are for v7-9 single avcs.

I have enquired with them and they can make custom dual avcs cams based on dual avcs ej257 cams with profile to suit my specific needs. Cost is about $1200 nzd ($1.050 aud)
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:56 PM   #157
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Hey all, in a short 2 years time I'll be able to start bringing over Nov 2000 STI's from Japan. I think the earliest MY01 STI I've seen was built in November (is this accurate).

I've probably visited the main page of this many times over the past and someone recently pointed out the the Factory A version may have had some issues with it. Does anyone know what exactly the issues are? Also is it worth it to get the type RA? I've seen a few go through auction and I believe according to the post it has bigger ports. I know this is one of the highly sought after parts and I think v8 ones had this standard.
Would have to go back and check on AVCS as I know that's a must have as well.

Any input on which engine and what month/year I should get is greatly appreciated!
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:07 PM   #158
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Ok apparently there is such a thing as an STI prodrive version as well in the MY02 which has the following:
Larger air to air intercooler with driver-controlled water spray
Sodium-filled exhaust valves
Hollow intake valves
Reinforced engine block and connecting rods
Forged pistons
Shimless valve lifters
Variable valve timing (Subaru call it 'Active Valve Contol System')

And then there are also some s202's showing up. Which one should I get??
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:39 PM   #159
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The S202 should be 2002-2003, unless you're writing about the engine from one.
In a V7, depending on which year, not all have the ROM for intercooler spray Auto.
Some of the Prodrive editions have the Magnezium red color valve covers. The V8 have them, I'm almost sure.
The V7 I'm not sure and they don't sell a separate upgrade set.
The rest of the features are standard.
Getting an engine of yahoo.jp auctions is not easy and returning it, if it's defective may be impossible.
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:11 PM   #160
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The S202 spec is here. http://www.sti.jp/e/product/previousmodel/2002s202.html

Lovely car, the only thing they didn't have was DCCD, but that was pre the DCCD-A system being designed. It was based on the STi Spec C Type RA, but with some nicer cosmetic touches such as forged wheels and a nice interior, plus it had 320PS with a titanium exhaust system. Only 400 made.

There was a JDM MY02 STi Prodrive limited edition of 1000, 900 blue, 100 black, these had the spec c roof vent.

There was also a UK MY02 prodrive style, which was basically a UK spec STi with a bodykit change to get rid of the uglies of the bugeye.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:29 AM   #161
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I'm not talking engines here. Just that the MY01 STI's will be available in 2 years and want to pick the best one... but I could maybe wait 1 more year if it's worth getting a different model. Basically looking to do a 350whp car here. I assume I need injectors/turbo/intake/exhaust and a tune. I've read the internals are good for 400whp but that's pushing it I think.

Went through and read more, so the RA's are the Spec C's if they are revision B and not revision A. How is someone able to tell if it's a revision A or B car?

Also does the revision A/B apply to the regular bugeyes? Someone was saying that the revision A might not be the best one.
This is on the first page (I assume the first date is slightly incorrect as I've seen them for Nov 2000):
Factory revisions A and B, amounting from 02/01/2000 to 10/31/2002, are called V7
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Old 12-04-2013, 12:32 PM   #162
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The date is off Subaru Parts literature, you can assume they were produced earlier than November 2000.
You should check with Customs/DOT/DMV if they go by manufacture or year-model.
You should check if they don't go by different standards from eachother. Agencies have been known to have internal regulations and not care about what the other agency says.
By example DOT may be fine with your 2000 manufactured car, but Customs may seize it, because it's a 2001 model.

As far as the rest..

You can wait as long as you want, maybe the laws will change too, in time, but for a 2000 manufactured car, there will not be an S202.

As far as identifying a car, it's a lot easier than an engine. Also, I wouldn't be surprised if you get "help" with that from Customs/DOT/DMV.
By the time they're done with it, you will know... for sure .. what that is and if it meets the regulations, especially.
The JDM cars may not have a VIN, that you may get through DMV, probably through a shop that will check the car one more time and affix the VIN.
Even if the JDM cars don't have a VIN, I think they have an underhood medallion (don't have the drawing in front of me), that has the Engine number, Transmission number and some more info.
John can tell you more about this, he has in UK a complete JDM car.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:35 PM   #163
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When it comes to customs and all that, all they care about is that the manufactured date is at least 15 years old (to the month). They don't care what model or anything and just go by whatever is written down on the export papers. Unfortunately when purchasing through auctions, all I can see is a front and back exterior shot and the Japanese inspection paper. It should tell me if it's an STI RA/Limited/Prodrive and there was some S(shou?) thing I saw today. I don't think S202 will show up and it's not guaranteed they'll always point out RA. I guess my big concern now is how can I tell RA rev A vs B or if there's a way to tell for bugeyes. I might be able to get the number off the plate under the hood while the auction is going heh. In the end, I guess someone just telling me what the best platform is for my 350whp car would be nice. Or if there's anything to consider like AVCS or suspension differences that would be nice bonuses that come with certain models

Here's some example pics, first pic is of the S(shou) one but otherwise looks like a normal 2001 STI:


I did notice one difference between the MY01's, they sometimes have a circle in the rear taillights. But the production dates don't show any consistent cutover date to this, maybe someone knows and maybe it's related to the rev A versus B heh?
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:28 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
The JDM cars may not have a VIN, that you may get through DMV, probably through a shop that will check the car one more time and affix the VIN.
Even if the JDM cars don't have a VIN, I think they have an underhood medallion (don't have the drawing in front of me), that has the Engine number, Transmission number and some more info.
John can tell you more about this, he has in UK a complete JDM car.
Hi Vlad,

All the JDM cars have a chassis plate, which is attached to the left front turret area. They list the Model code, Vin number, option codes, Gearbox type, colour and so on, just like the rest of world models.

UK cars have a secondary VIN plate with a longer Vin number.
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:42 PM   #165
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I did notice one difference between the MY01's, they sometimes have a circle in the rear taillights. But the production dates don't show any consistent cutover date to this, maybe someone knows and maybe it's related to the rev A versus B heh?
I would expect someone fitted Blobeye rear lights to that car, it's not an uncommon mod.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:09 PM   #166
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In the years you are discussing (2000-2001), the differences concern mainly the DCCD and which of the two VF turbo you get.
None of the two VF will take you to 350 WHP and their resale value is probably similar at this point.
I am not sure exactly when the DCCD came out in GD, it may have been there from the first Rev A Type RA.
As I'm sure you're familiar with at this point, you do not get ABS in a V7, if you have DCCD.
So you face a choice as interesting as it was back in its day...

As far as the reliability issues of the early models, with any car, they sort things out as the years pass.
There is the matter of those valve springs that were never used again, although the cams continued to be used.

I would like to know why they were dropped, but I would prefer not to find out the hard way.

The 350 WHP, as measured in a road dyno, dynojet or dynamics has been done by many on pump gas, with upgraded turbo, with these engines. I don't think this is a problem, although I personally only run 330 WHP.
The large variety of editions has been an effective sales tool for GDB JDM, but they are not that different, so once you made up your mind about DCCD, just go for the car that looks to have been better maintained, I guess.

Last edited by Vlad; 12-04-2013 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:52 PM   #167
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The DCCD system was basically the same as the GC8 on the first Newage Type RA but built into the 6 speed, it had no ABS and no Auto mode. Most were built with a VC centre diff and ABS.

They were also single scroll turbo's.

You are looking at a limit of 380BHP flywheel out of a stock newage JDM 2.0 with a remap and exhaust change IMHO.

The bugeye cams are not as good as the blobeye.

Some of the models were sold as 16" versions, which meant they had 16" diameter wheels and the GC8 4 pot front brakes, the interiors were also pretty basic with lower quality seats, carpets etc. These were sold as a basis to build a competition car or café racer from.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:58 PM   #168
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There are 4 distinct versions of DCCD on the Newage JDM STi's before the hatchback came out.

Bugeye had a manual DCCD with 66:33
Blobeye initially had a DCCD-A with 66:33 and G sensor
Widetrack Blobeye had a DCCD-A with 66:33 and a G sensor and Yaw sensor
Hawkeye had a DCCD-A with 59:41 and a G sensor, Yaw sensor and Steering position sensor.

There were also changes in front and rear diff setup on the DCCD cars depending on model year and model.
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:22 PM   #169
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I definitely didn't know a lot of this, especially about ABS and such. I can't say I need a DCCD (never tried one out). The RA had the bigger ports I believe so was that the one you were saying would hit 380bhp? Would that be without swapping injectors? If I went with a regular bugeye would that number drop a little?
I'm just thinking maybe I should go with a tune on the stock turbo, but with 3" turbo back and maybe intake/injectors and see where I'm at. See if I like it, and if I ever want more, then look into a turbo upgrade.

Also I'd much rather get the brembos than the 4 pots haha so maybe I'll stay away from the RA unless I can clearly see the brakes. Might just be as Vlad pointed out and I'll just go for the lowest km/best maintained. One car had 16,000km's on it, some have been showing 20,000-40,000, so that gives me hope I'll be getting a really nice car in great shape for super cheap.

Thanks for the info!
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:27 PM   #170
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Originally Posted by Jarrod164 View Post
I definitely didn't know a lot of this, especially about ABS and such. I can't say I need a DCCD (never tried one out). The RA had the bigger ports I believe so was that the one you were saying would hit 380bhp? Would that be without swapping injectors? If I went with a regular bugeye would that number drop a little? I'm just thinking maybe I should go with a tune on the stock turbo, but with 3" turbo back and maybe intake/injectors and see where I'm at. See if I like it, and if I ever want more, then look into a turbo upgrade. Also I'd much rather get the brembos than the 4 pots haha so maybe I'll stay away from the RA unless I can clearly see the brakes. Might just be as Vlad pointed out and I'll just go for the lowest km/best maintained. One car had 16,000km's on it, some have been showing 20,000-40,000, so that gives me hope I'll be getting a really nice car in great shape for super cheap. Thanks for the info!
Did you just use the words "nice car", "great shape" and "super cheap" in reference to a bugeye? Comb over whatever you look at with an electron microscope man
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:38 PM   #171
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Unfortunately I can't do that since it's from Japan heh. But the condition of the Japanese cars can be far better than anything found locally a lot of the time. The Japanese auctions have their own people check out the car and mark things like dents/scratches or panel replacements on the auction sheets. But like I said, if I find a bugeye with 40,000km's, it's most likely in very good condition, interior/exterior-wise. If there's something I need to know about these v7 engines then tell me now heh. All old cars do come with problems though so some parts replacement might be required of course.
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:01 PM   #172
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The main issue with the earlier spec engines is exhaust valve seats and valves burn a little, giving lower than specced compression. The later spec cars run with larger valve clearances on the exhaust valve to stop this happening.

You can find the cam specs in the group N homologation forms on the Japanese STi website http://www.sti.jp/e/competitor/n_homologation/

I wouldn't worry about the head specs on any of the JDM cars at the level of power you are considering, they wont be anywhere near the limit. 380BHP flywheel is about the limit of the stock injectors and turbo, you can get 400lbft out of them if you ramp the midrange boost up, but the turbos cant flow the air up top. My OEM spec engine was a rocket ship on the road with that sort of power/torque. Nothing like what I have now but who needs 540lbft at 3500rpm in a road car anyway.
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:02 AM   #173
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I think 400lbft of torque would be awesome haha. I'd be quite happy with that, and since I'm not really one to take the car to the track or bounce off the rev limiter, I don't think I need a whole lot of top end power out of the turbo. It would just be a daily driver for me so this all sounds good then. Probably will just pick out the cleanest example that comes with rims because those v7 rims are hideous, and take it to the subaru tuner.
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Old 12-06-2013, 02:25 PM   #174
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I'm having a tough time deciding on which rotated set up to run on my road race stock long block V8 EJ207. Looking at gtx3071r, gt3076r, and the gtx3076r. Hoping someone could post some dyno sheets or has real world track experience with any of these turbos. I'm a little worried about lag with the two 76 turbos.

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Old 12-06-2013, 02:40 PM   #175
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Why would you worry about lag on a road race engine? If the 1.5xtr is using an OEM spec hot side, it shouldn't warp as OEM are high quality stainless steel. Are your EGT's mental or is something else going on?
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