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Old 01-25-2014, 06:21 AM   #8001
stlnation
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so ive recieved my lastest v9 sti motor. Looks like this motor has rust around the valves and cylinders. Im guessing something didndt get covered well and ocean salt water in the air contamindated the engine and has ruined it. i dunno but im trying to work out getting it sent back now.



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Old 01-25-2014, 09:43 AM   #8002
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Ouch! So sorry dude, Ive been there.
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:37 AM   #8003
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What's with the recent string of bad motors? I received my motor shipped from a Japan military base via 8 flat rate usps boxes and it arrived in better conditions than some of these recent ones. o.O
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:59 AM   #8004
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Me. Then this guy.... The apocalypse is nigh!!
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Old 01-25-2014, 11:05 AM   #8005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinjiML View Post
What's with the recent string of bad motors?

I would imagine it has much to do with the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. The word is out on these motors and though they are still rare, some of the newer vendors are unscrupulous. Be very careful with who you purchase from. Go with a reputable vendor…with a longer track record. Get the motor running within 30 days of receipt before the return warranty runs out.
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Old 01-25-2014, 12:06 PM   #8006
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^^^ this.

If you can offer the guy delivering it food or drink and inspect the $hit out of it before he even leaves.
Spend at least one whole day on just going over it really well before you do anything. I'm glad I did.
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:17 AM   #8007
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That motor might be OK. I agree. If you can get you money back that's the safest bet, but I had a motor with valves that looked like that and I WD40ed them and cold cranked it, and got perfect compression.

Installed it in my brother in laws car, and it has run perfect for the last year.

Just my 2cents.

The valves rust real easy. Might look worse then it is.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:08 AM   #8008
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WD40 before the first cranking or start attempt, is a good idea.
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Old 01-26-2014, 11:32 AM   #8009
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I'm in the process of finishing my build. If torn apart everything over the last 2yrs so my memory of where everything goes is foggy.

I'm running a MOROSO dual catch can setup and I've run one line from the crank case vent (it has two outputs) and the other to the PCV on the intake manifold.

The 2nd has the two head breathers connected and then to the intake after the catch can. My problem is, where does that extra port on the crank vent go?? Here's a picture of what I mean, it's the light grey piece. Do I just cap it off?

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Old 01-26-2014, 11:52 AM   #8010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIQUIDSK8S View Post
I'm in the process of finishing my build. If torn apart everything over the last 2yrs so my memory of where everything goes is foggy.

I'm running a MOROSO dual catch can setup and I've run one line from the crank case vent (it has two outputs) and the other to the PCV on the intake manifold.

The 2nd has the two head breathers connected and then to the intake after the catch can. My problem is, where does that extra port on the crank vent go?? Here's a picture of what I mean, it's the light grey piece. Do I just cap it off?
2 ways to do it for the crankcase catch can if you don't want burn any crankcase vapors through your intake manifold.
1) remove the pcv from your intake manifold and plug it. Run a line from the crank case to your 1st crankcase catchcan port, run the 2nd crankcase catchcan port to a inlet vac source .
2) leave your pcv from your intake manifold alone and run it straight to a inlet vac source . Run a line from the crank case to your 1st crankcase catchcan port, run the 2nd crankcase catchcan port to a inlet vac source .

you can remove the T fitting on the crankcase vent and replace with a single barb, or block one side of the T you aren't using.

FWIW , the Crawford AOS instructions do it the first way, Perrin AOS instructions do it the second way.

Note: its slightly different if the pcv is located IN the crankcase breather T rather than the intake manifold.
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:02 PM   #8011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
2 ways to do it for the crankcase catch can if you don't want burn any crankcase vapors through your intake manifold. 1) remove the pcv from your intake manifold and plug it. Run a line from the crank case to your 1st crankcase catchcan port, run the 2nd crankcase catchcan port to a inlet vac source . 2) leave your pcv from your intake manifold alone and run it straight to a inlet vac source . Run a line from the crank case to your 1st crankcase catchcan port, run the 2nd crankcase catchcan port to a inlet vac source . you can remove the T fitting on the crankcase vent and replace with a single barb, or block one side of the T you aren't using. FWIW , the Crawford AOS instructions do it the first way, Perrin AOS instructions do it the second way. Note: its slightly different if the pcv is located IN the crankcase breather T rather than the intake manifold.
Ok, so the preference is to just delete the PCV altogether. The MOROSO instructions have you running to the intake manifold though?

For the inlet vac source, could I just T the line for the second catch can that's running to the turbo inlet pipe? So they both share the vac source?
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:32 PM   #8012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIQUIDSK8S View Post
Ok, so the preference is to just delete the PCV altogether. The MOROSO instructions have you running to the intake manifold though?

For the inlet vac source, could I just T the line for the second catch can that's running to the turbo inlet pipe? So they both share the vac source?
I haven't read the Moroso instructions, but if they run the line to the intake manifold, it will allow oil vapor to be sucked through the intake manifold while driving under vacuum. Its the stock way the pcv is run by the factory to vent crankcase gasses, not an improvement.

Yup, an inlet vac source is an inlet vac source, T as needed.
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:15 PM   #8013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
I haven't read the Moroso instructions, but if they run the line to the intake manifold, it will allow oil vapor to be sucked through the intake manifold while driving under vacuum. Its the stock way the pcv is run by the factory to vent crankcase gasses, not an improvement. Yup, an inlet vac source is an inlet vac source, T as needed.
I was just thinking about this, and it doesn't make sense.

If I use the turbo inlet for my vac source, the gasses in the catch can still end up in the intake manifold. In your layout it goes inlet/turbo/intercooler/manifold. So really unless you vent to atmosphere, it goes into the manifold regardless of where you draw the vacuum.
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:34 PM   #8014
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Ugh. Been putting off my valve cover gaskets LOL. I also saw LIC have metal moon shaped gaskets. Anyone have experience with those? I didn't buy the moon shaped gaskets and was thinking about getting them.
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:20 PM   #8015
LIQUIDSK8S
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EDIT: NVM I figured it out........not working on a car for months can turn you into a idiot. The first pic goes to the line under the turbo. The 2nd pic goes to the coolant tank. In case anyone else ever runs into this issue.

New question, because I'm noticing differences to the EJ257.

I'm reconnecting the coolant lines, but the bottom line on the upper tank has me confused. Here's why.

This line right here comes from below the turbo, connected to the block. I assumed this connected to the tank.

But now I have this part of the coolant line running under the intake manifold. Am I supposed to T these off and connect all three? Or am I missing something? This pipe is directly under the turbo inlet btw.

Last edited by LIQUIDSK8S; 01-26-2014 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:31 PM   #8016
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIQUIDSK8S View Post
I was just thinking about this, and it doesn't make sense.

If I use the turbo inlet for my vac source, the gasses in the catch can still end up in the intake manifold. In your layout it goes inlet/turbo/intercooler/manifold. So really unless you vent to atmosphere, it goes into the manifold regardless of where you draw the vacuum.
you're over thinking it. It would be filtered gasses in the catchcan that will eventually end up in the intake manifold.
The goal is to catch heavier stuff that would otherwise cake up and sludge your entire intake track. Thats why a good can will have baffles or other media inside to create alot of surface area to trap as much oil vapor in the can as possible.

you're right that there is a 3rd solution to setup up the crankcase breather to go out to atmosphere. I didn't mention it because on a street setup, most people can't stand the smell.
The air in the crankcase isnt measured, so technically you can just run a tube straight up in the air with a small breather filter. The use of vac from the intake is to relieve the crankcase pressure which builds when in boost.
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:56 PM   #8017
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
Ugh. Been putting off my valve cover gaskets LOL. I also saw LIC have metal moon shaped gaskets. Anyone have experience with those? I didn't buy the moon shaped gaskets and was thinking about getting them.
LOL, i thought you got them done last year! I just did a search for those metal ones, thats some serious $. Anyways, i don't see how the stock ones leak or "shrink" according to their ad, as long as you put enough fujibond and ensure the flat top of the half moon surface is level with the head.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:02 PM   #8018
MCPHERSON
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I am in the middle I a version 8 swap

The motor had the BPV tube cut and I am in need if a new tube

I went to SUBARU and the WRX and sti have different part numbers for this tube

Which one is a closer fit to the JDM tube ?
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:23 PM   #8019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
you're over thinking it. It would be filtered gasses in the catchcan that will eventually end up in the intake manifold. The goal is to catch heavier stuff that would otherwise cake up and sludge your entire intake track. Thats why a good can will have baffles or other media inside to create alot of surface area to trap as much oil vapor in the can as possible. you're right that there is a 3rd solution to setup up the crankcase breather to go out to atmosphere. I didn't mention it because on a street setup, most people can't stand the smell. The air in the crankcase isnt measured, so technically you can just run a tube straight up in the air with a small breather filter. The use of vac from the intake is to relieve the crankcase pressure which builds when in boost.
The point I was making is that your method still dumps gasses into the intake manifold via the intake tract.

My setup per MOROSO has the block breather go to the first catch can, it's then filtered and routed back to the intake manifold PCV.

The 2nd catch can takes the two lines from the heads and filters them before sending it to the turbo inlet.

If I were to route the line on the intake manifold to the intake instead (plugging the PCV) then the filtered gasses from the catch can would still go to the intake manifold.

See my point?
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:40 PM   #8020
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIQUIDSK8S View Post
The point I was making is that your method still dumps gasses into the intake manifold via the intake tract.

My setup per MOROSO has the block breather go to the first catch can, it's then filtered and routed back to the intake manifold PCV.

The 2nd catch can takes the two lines from the heads and filters them before sending it to the turbo inlet.

If I were to route the line on the intake manifold to the intake instead (plugging the PCV) then the filtered gasses from the catch can would still go to the intake manifold.

See my point?
Forget about the 2nd catch can, its the easy one.

If the moroso method is from the cc block breather, then filtered by the can, and pulled through by the vac on the pvc located on the intake manifold... It will ONLY work when you are cruising out of boost.

In boost the pcv will shut on your intake manifold and you will build positive pressure in your crankcase and crankcase catch can.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:53 PM   #8021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCPHERSON View Post
I am in the middle I a version 8 swap The motor had the BPV tube cut and I am in need if a new tube I went to SUBARU and the WRX and sti have different part numbers for this tube Which one is a closer fit to the JDM tube ?
I think the Sti tube is the closest match due to the similar inter cooler and turbo design.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:56 PM   #8022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
LOL, i thought you got them done last year! I just did a search for those metal ones, thats some serious $. Anyways, i don't see how the stock ones leak or "shrink" according to their ad, as long as you put enough fujibond and ensure the flat top of the half moon surface is level with the head.
LMFAO! I got lazy. LOL. don't judge me. Bwahahahahaha
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:28 PM   #8023
stlnation
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03WRXer View Post
That motor might be OK. I agree. If you can get you money back that's the safest bet, but I had a motor with valves that looked like that and I WD40ed them and cold cranked it, and got perfect compression.

Installed it in my brother in laws car, and it has run perfect for the last year.

Just my 2cents.

The valves rust real easy. Might look worse then it is.

This was the 3rd motor I've received in about a year. The first one spun rod bearing after about 50 miles. Wais took care of me and replaced it. So I brought a tranny from him. The next motor lasted about 6000 miles before it melted a piston. This motor looks terrible inside. It's going back tomorrow. I need the new one here ASAP. My new tuner is moving
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:10 AM   #8024
Vlad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigs90 View Post
I think the Sti tube is the closest match due to the similar inter cooler and turbo design.
Even the USDM Sti had two designs. The V9 I have has the wrx style hex fitting. The newer '05-'07 have a different, tube design.

Do what I did: Begin the PCV replacement in a parking lot close to the dealer, take the old PCV and put it on their counter.
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:39 PM   #8025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
LOL, i thought you got them done last year! I just did a search for those metal ones, thats some serious $. Anyways, i don't see how the stock ones leak or "shrink" according to their ad, as long as you put enough fujibond and ensure the flat top of the half moon surface is level with the head.
Mine are leaking

I havent decided it $50 is reasonable yet...
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