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Old 12-31-2013, 01:31 PM   #1
ToneWrx02
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Default how to put new ball joint in.

Well first let me say I cant remove my tire because of the ****ty 7 point bit tool to remove the lugnuts is stripped.

So i have managed to remove the old ball joint but now i cant get the new one in.

Any tips?
If i had the tire off i could give it a tap with a hammer.. but well i wont get another 7 point tool for maybe a week or more


The car is almost all the way in the garage so i guess I can wait, but i rather not.
UPDATE



Okay guys, I finally got the 7 point key for the lugnuts, I removed the Tire, removed the brakes, removed disc, removed suspension, took out the axle, and I put it on a bench.

Grabbed a hammer, whacked it 4 times and plop it came out.

30 minute job, no headache, no bruises, no stress. Went great.
Going to install the balljoint on the bench.

Now what ball joint should I get now? OEM, or Whiteline?
Im thinking OEM, but im betting they cost alot here. (Sweden)

What baffles me is how the old balljoint just slides into place without any pressure it just plops in there.
Right now I just want what will give me less headache.
I have thursday off and february, I need the car ASAP now since i want to go snowboarding and I want to get the roofrack into use :P
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Last edited by ToneWrx02; 01-25-2014 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 12-31-2013, 03:02 PM   #2
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Why didn't you just wait a week to BEGIN replacing the ball joint so that you could remove your wheel?

Which side won't it fit in? the knuckle or the control arm?...
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:57 PM   #3
ToneWrx02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post

Why didn't you just wait a week to BEGIN replacing the ball joint so that you could remove your wheel?

Which side won't it fit in? the knuckle or the control arm?...
Because i have my inspection that i failed last month to fix whats broken on the 5th.
If i do it withen a month i only have to pay 50$. After is 250$.

So you tell me.

Knuckle. The fat ball part. The old one goes right in and out even.
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Old 12-31-2013, 05:49 PM   #4
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You removed the bolt, correct? The ball joint wont go in if its still in place.

If that's not it, then get a wire wheel, spray WD-40 up in there. Go to town on it with the wire wheel on a drill. Wipe it out apply anti-seize before installing.

If that still does not work, try spreading the pinch bolt gap on the knuckle with a thick screwdriver or the like. Don't go ape on it, as some people have actually split the knuckle spreading it too far.

Where did you get the replacement from? Does the diameter match the one that came out?

That's got to be a royal pain with the wheel still on. You can't find any thing that fits the lugs?
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:37 PM   #5
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You should really get that wheel off, find an old socket that is barely to small and hammer it on or go buy some cheap sockets to bang on to it. Figure something out and just plan on buying one new lug nut and replacing a socket. get that tire off and you'll be home free!
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:38 PM   #6
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Thats the thing i have volk formula lugnuts and the 7 point key its notorious for sucking and getting stripped. I have looked everywhere for a new piece but nobody seems to have luck finding it.
The dealer i bought it from said they will help me out but no reply yet(assuming due to holidays).

The pieces i got are from UK that make custom parts for old british cars. They had great reviews from swedish subaru members, price was right so why not.
Dimensional wise they look exactly the same except for the boot.

Il give the wire brush idea a go. I would really like to save my self 200$ :P
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
You removed the bolt, correct? The ball joint wont go in if its still in place.
I may have gone thru half a bottle of vodka but im 100% sure i remove the entire thing off as i have compared the old one to the new one.

Just relised you meant the top bolt to be ablw to open it up amd split it apart. Yes ive done that.

Last edited by ToneWrx02; 01-01-2014 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:53 AM   #8
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So i almost got the ball joint in. But unlucky me missed with the hammer and ripped the boot a tiny bit.

To top it off the tip of where the bolt goes on is abit stripped so im having issues with that as well.

I domt understand how its not fitting. Its the same dam size. Im just going to removw this new/bad one i messed up. Order some oem ones and give that a go.

Also i cant leave the garage open so i have to figure out how to push the car in a few more feet without steering.. or front on the ground. Freaken great.

Im at thw point were il just tow the dam car and have it done. Let someone else get a headache.
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:06 PM   #9
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Did you clean out the knuckle of rust after you took the old one out?

Its a tight machined fit, the slightest amount of rust chunkies are going to cause problems

You might as well start over if you tore the boot and mashed the threads..
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
Did you clean out the knuckle of rust after you took the old one out?

Its a tight machined fit, the slightest amount of rust chunkies are going to cause problems

You might as well start over if you tore the boot and mashed the threads..
yea I wire brushed it clean and put some oil on it to lube it up.
I bought two as a kit so I can use the other one.. hopefully once I manage to remove the one thats in now, it will have loosen it up and will make it easier for the other one to go in.

Il force a nut on and hammer it out.
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:49 PM   #11
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Just put the old one back on for now, get the car on the ground and move it as needed. Get a new ball joint, STOP.

REMOVE THE WHEEL. Do not proceed until you get the wheel off. If that means waiting a week for a magical 7 sided socket to arrive then so be it.

You got the old one off, I have no doubt you can get the new one on.
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Old 01-01-2014, 06:07 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subergoo View Post
Just put the old one back on for now, get the car on the ground and move it as needed. Get a new ball joint, STOP.

REMOVE THE WHEEL. Do not proceed until you get the wheel off. If that means waiting a week for a magical 7 sided socket to arrive then so be it.

You got the old one off, I have no doubt you can get the new one on.
Yea thats the plan. I PB blasted it and will leave it for tonight. It will take me abit of time to hammer it out since i have no room but il manage.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:27 AM   #13
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I've seen this used in the past but don't know if you can get it in Sweden: Gator Grip socket.

Gator Grip ETC-125MO King Gator Socket - Amazon.comGator Grip ETC-125MO King Gator Socket - Amazon.com

Basically a socket filled with rods that will conform to the fastener. May be worth a try.
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Old 01-25-2014, 02:52 PM   #14
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Okay guys, I finally got the 7 point key for the lugnuts, I removed the Tire, removed the brakes, removed disc, removed suspension, took out the axle, and I put it on a bench.

Grabbed a hammer, whacked it 4 times and plop it came out.

30 minute job, no headache, no bruises, no stress. Went great.
Going to install the balljoint on the bench.

Now what ball joint should I get now? OEM, or Whiteline?
Im thinking OEM, but im betting they cost alot here. (Sweden)
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Old 01-25-2014, 04:19 PM   #15
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OEM or Moog.
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:27 AM   #16
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Well Moog isnt a option here.. sad So right now its down to OEM or Whiteline..

I feel like going with OEM since I know its 100% sure to fit but if I go with whiteline il get new tierods as well, but I been searching and havnt really found anything on fitment wise, going into the socket.

How do others put in there balljoints? do they just plop in or do they press it in? if so how?
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:26 AM   #17
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Use WD-40 (or similar) spray liberally up in the knuckle. Get a wire wheel brush for a drill. Brush it out well. Once clean, apply anti-seize liberally and the ball joint should slide in with hand pressure (or a very light tap).
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:33 AM   #18
ToneWrx02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
Use WD-40 (or similar) spray liberally up in the knuckle. Get a wire wheel brush for a drill. Brush it out well. Once clean, apply anti-seize liberally and the ball joint should slide in with hand pressure (or a very light tap).
Ive wire brushed it already no rust spots to be seen except on bottom ring.i also found wd40 here. Much more expensive here but worth it.

I guess i need to go buy anti seize. I just appled some grease from the axle ha.

What would do in my position? Whiteline or oem. I do plan on upgrading suspension in future.

Last edited by ToneWrx02; 01-26-2014 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:44 AM   #19
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Yours is 2002 wrx correct? It is the same as my car.

Does your have alloy control arms or steel. The alloy control arms have a shim between the ball joint and control arm. Mine just popped back in without any hammering.

Also it you intend to use a hammer. Put the nut on the thread and keep the thread flush with the nut.

Post a pic!

Do you have the car lowered? Are you talking about the whiteline roll centre kit? I have it on my wrx and it really did make the car handle better. But my car is dropped 40mm
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToneWrx02 View Post

Ive wire brushed it already no rust spots to be seen except on bottom ring.i also found wd40 here. Much more expensive here but worth it.

I guess i need to go buy anti seize. I just appled some grease from the axle ha.

What would do in my position? Whiteline or oem. I do plan on upgrading suspension in future.
The whiteline ball joints fit just like oem but that being said the whiteline is a roll center kit if u r lowered so of u r lowered I would highly consider the whiteline over oem.
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:05 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trev762 View Post
The whiteline ball joints fit just like oem but that being said the whiteline is a roll center kit if u r lowered so of u r lowered I would highly consider the whiteline over oem.
I plan on going a tiny bit lower so Il order it.
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:49 PM   #22
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Update the whiteline popped right in. No struggle no push or force required. Even without anti seize, i did apply anti seize thou after test fitting.
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:37 AM   #23
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I've actually been thinking about going with the Whiteline roll center kit. What do you think of it so far? After getting the wheel off, was it a difficult job?
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:52 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BockSTK View Post
I've actually been thinking about going with the Whiteline roll center kit. What do you think of it so far? After getting the wheel off, was it a difficult job?
I highly recommend it. It slide in like butter, side by side comparison it looks much better.
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