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Old 01-26-2014, 12:24 AM   #676
300zxturboftw
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You can use a physical switch to Change between tunes for 91 and 93 not that it would matter much as you probably have to retard timing a degree or two at your power levels.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:58 AM   #677
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who has 91 in Chicago land/Midwest
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:48 AM   #678
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who has 91 in Chicago land/Midwest
I think that would be speedway, Meier, SAMs club, coscto, and all the other cheap brands.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:44 AM   #679
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I think that would be speedway, Meier, SAMs club, coscto, and all the other cheap brands.
meijer has 93 up here
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:56 PM   #680
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I was gonna say we have 93
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:25 PM   #681
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91 is for when I go to Iowa or Minnesota. 93 is really, really hard to find in both.

Also, most Speedway have 93. There's even a couple Speedway that have race gas. (One on Black and 59, another somewhere farther north on 59 and the one on Weber and 55)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 300zxturboftw View Post
You can use a physical switch to Change between tunes for 91 and 93 not that it would matter much as you probably have to retard timing a degree or two at your power levels.
How do you do this? I've never heard of a physical switch.
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:39 PM   #682
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91 is for when I go to Iowa or Minnesota. 93 is really, really hard to find in both. Also, most Speedway have 93. There's even a couple Speedway that have race gas. (One on Black and 59, another somewhere farther north on 59 and the one on Weber and 55) How do you do this? I've never heard of a physical switch.
93 is also hard to find in Wisconsin. At least by the highway.
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:58 PM   #683
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93 is also hard to find in Wisconsin. At least by the highway.
on my route to/from marshfield 93 0 ethanol was available car ran like a Ferrari. once I made it to Chicago land blended fuel, pfff.

also bar on each corner, whole city shut Down after 8.
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:00 PM   #684
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.......
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:53 PM   #685
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What year is your car? A lot of people do it through Open Source. I had a physical switch for map switching between E85 and 93.. Not that hard to do once you have a understanding.

-Eddie
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:53 PM   #686
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Originally Posted by Eddie at PNR View Post
What year is your car? A lot of people do it through Open Source. I had a physical switch for map switching between E85 and 93.. Not that hard to do once you have a understanding.

-Eddie
My car is a 2014 STI. I'm just trying to understand how a physical switch works since I've never heard about this before. I'm guessing it's something like the SI-Drive on the STI where the ECM can hold multiple maps and switch between them using a toggle-switch? If so, then you just need to add another switch to toggle between 93 and E85? Is it difficult to wire that to the ECM? How many different maps can you store/control with a switch? It is something you can toggle on the fly, or do you have to turn the car off and wait for the ECU reflash like when using a Cobb AP?
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:37 PM   #687
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My car is a 2014 STI. I'm just trying to understand how a physical switch works since I've never heard about this before. I'm guessing it's something like the SI-Drive on the STI where the ECM can hold multiple maps and switch between them using a toggle-switch? If so, then you just need to add another switch to toggle between 93 and E85? Is it difficult to wire that to the ECM? How many different maps can you store/control with a switch? It is something you can toggle on the fly, or do you have to turn the car off and wait for the ECU reflash like when using a Cobb AP?
300zx was shown last year by someone who did it to go between 93 and e85. In design, if you could find a 3 position switch to do it, I'm sure you could design it to run 91, 93, and e85.
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Old 01-26-2014, 11:44 PM   #688
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Originally Posted by iVolke View Post
My car is a 2014 STI. I'm just trying to understand how a physical switch works since I've never heard about this before. I'm guessing it's something like the SI-Drive on the STI where the ECM can hold multiple maps and switch between them using a toggle-switch? If so, then you just need to add another switch to toggle between 93 and E85? Is it difficult to wire that to the ECM? How many different maps can you store/control with a switch? It is something you can toggle on the fly, or do you have to turn the car off and wait for the ECU reflash like when using a Cobb AP?
I'll PM you

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300zx was shown last year by someone who did it to go between 93 and e85. In design, if you could find a 3 position switch to do it, I'm sure you could design it to run 91, 93, and e85.
I showed 300zx last year on my previous car before I sold it to a friend.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:06 AM   #689
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Personally I wouldn't even bother if you are only talking about 91 vs. 93 pump. If you want to swap to E85 that's a different story. I'm not really sure if you are new to cars or have done builds before, but just giving my 2 cents is if you want to spend the least and get the most out of a build then just do it right the first time. Only buy what you need rather than piecing together a bunch of parts that you might end up just swapping out when you want to do a complete build.

I wish I told my younger self what I know now. I would have so much cash in the bank.

Last edited by 300zxturboftw; 01-27-2014 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:53 AM   #690
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Originally Posted by 300zxturboftw View Post
Personally I wouldn't even bother if you are only talking about 91 vs. 93 pump. If you want to swap to E85 that's a different story. I'm not really sure if you are new to cars or have done builds before, but just giving my 2 cents is if you want to spend the least and get the most out of a build then just do it right the first time. Only buy what you need rather than piecing together a bunch of parts that you might end up just swapping out when you want to do a complete build. I wish I told my younger self what I know now. I would have so much cash in the bank.
I was thinking the same thing. I'm just going to use the AP for 91 vs 93. It takes all of 2 minutes to do with the V3. I just wanted to get more information about physical switches as I'm a curious person and like to learn.

In some aspects I'm petty new to cars and in others I'm not. I know a lot about them and how they work, but I never had much of a chance to work on them as I was growing up because my family didn't have a lot of money. I have a little more freedom now that I'm out of college with a steady engineering job. Thank you for the advice. That's just what I thinking. I don't like to do unnecessary work or spend money for no reason, so I like to do it right the first time. I don't know where I want to take the car performance wise yet, so I'm not going to buy anything until I figure that out. My current plans are window tint, tail light overlays, Volk ZE40's(probably a long while from now seeing how much they cost...) and a Nameless exhaust.
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:54 AM   #691
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My first piece of advice: Don't cheap out on anything mechanical/exterior wise. Grab something that is proven to work and something with a reputable name. Once you start buying knock off parts whether it would be wheels, exhaust, blow off valves, wastegates, etc surely you will run into problems down the line. I've had friends do it and I've even bought a knock off part or two only to replace it a week later and junk the knock off part. There are certain exceptions where knock off's can be reputable but considering you have a new & nice car please don't ruin it with garbage parts.

As for performance wise, open your wallet for a realistic build or get stranded on the side of the road when the motor goes. Don't expect tons of power out of the motor unless you pay for it. Quality and reliable parts are not cheap for a reason. If you are looking to bump up the horsepower to around 350-400 then do some research around here as it's pretty easy to do with turbo, injectors, intake & tune on a stock block. For a rotated kit I would say expect about 3-4k to do everything including tune with used parts and around 5k with all new parts depending what you go with. Add another 5k to build the block if you pay someone to do the labor.

Piece the build together above and I guarantee you will be sitting around 13-15k vs. 8-10k getting it all done at once.
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:44 PM   #692
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Originally Posted by 300zxturboftw View Post
My first piece of advice: Don't cheap out on anything mechanical/exterior wise. Grab something that is proven to work and something with a reputable name. Once you start buying knock off parts whether it would be wheels, exhaust, blow off valves, wastegates, etc surely you will run into problems down the line. I've had friends do it and I've even bought a knock off part or two only to replace it a week later and junk the knock off part. There are certain exceptions where knock off's can be reputable but considering you have a new & nice car please don't ruin it with garbage parts. As for performance wise, open your wallet for a realistic build or get stranded on the side of the road when the motor goes. Don't expect tons of power out of the motor unless you pay for it. Quality and reliable parts are not cheap for a reason. If you are looking to bump up the horsepower to around 350-400 then do some research around here as it's pretty easy to do with turbo, injectors, intake & tune on a stock block. For a rotated kit I would say expect about 3-4k to do everything including tune with used parts and around 5k with all new parts depending what you go with. Add another 5k to build the block if you pay someone to do the labor. Piece the build together above and I guarantee you will be sitting around 13-15k vs. 8-10k getting it all done at once.
I avoid knock-offs like the plague. haha
Even my winter wheels are Prodrive GT1. I'll eventually use my OEM wheels for winter when I finally pick up the Volk ZE40.

I don't want to do a turbo kit without an engine build. I'm even hesitant to try stage 2 on a stock block because I'm paranoid about ringland issues. I'm thinking of staying at stage 1 until I'm ready to do a full build.

On the topic of full builds, does that 8-10k you mentioned for a full build include labor or is that just parts? When I finally get out of warranty on the car, I plan on doing all the work myself with the help of some friends. I want to do a full build on a car at least once in my life.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:45 PM   #693
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I would suggest let the machine shop assemble the short block. These motors are not good motors to be your first build on. They are unusual from the norm being there are 2 halves of the motor. You don't seem like an idiot so I'm sure you could do it, but if you are putting a lot of money into it then it's not worth saving $500 for assembly fee and having a bearing spin or something else go wrong because it was clearance/assembled wrong. The tools to assemble these motors correctly are a couple hundred dollars themselves, so if you prospect building multiple motors then it might be a good idea. I would find a friend building his first and help them then see if his runs whether or not you want to take your motor building to your own garage =). Pulling out the block and re-installing will run you $1700 at 6 star. I spent about 6500 on machine shop expenses and parts. Learned my lesson that I should have started with a new block all together. I pulled the motor with the help of some people though, but my build also had rod knock after 1k miles which no one can figure out why and now I'm out another 3 grand. So...prepare your wallet as I said.

Last edited by 300zxturboftw; 01-27-2014 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:51 PM   #694
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Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate it. I don't see myself building a lot of engines, so that $500 for assembly is sounding like a good deal to me instead of buying a few hundred dollars of tools I'll probably never use again. I'm not going to do any serious mods until I'm out of warranty, so at least I have a couple years to figure out what exactly I want to do.

I really want to see your car when I'm back in Chicagoland. It sounds awesome.

Also, everyone should check out this sweet find. I'm so tempted to buy this.

http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/4260238916.html
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Old 01-28-2014, 01:18 AM   #695
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No pictures of the motor and 1160 awhp? lol. 32 psi on a 72mm on a 2.5 block making that power? Doubtful. 32 PSI on my VG30 would give me around 850 with my 72mm and that would be on the optimistic side of things. Realistically we are talking low 700's.
This was posted in 2008: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=21010684
Makes me believe the car was never tuned as he said he only baby's it anyhow. Sounds sketchy. Avoid at all costs.

Oh, might I add. Have you ever seen a 1000 awhp EJ motor? I haven't in person, but this is the only semi legit video I could find:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJwEO9JtWag#t=91

45r @ most likely 50-60 PSI at least. I bet that block made a whole 10 pulls before it spun a rod and took the motor out.

Don't fall for what retarded people say on craigslist and even on here. That's rule #1. If you explore the other technical sections on the forum and do a bunch of reading you will arguably find who is legit and who talks **** in only a couple hours.

Last edited by 300zxturboftw; 01-28-2014 at 01:29 AM.
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Old 01-28-2014, 01:33 AM   #696
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Yeah, I went back and actually read it and realized it wasn't right.
I though I saw it somewhere before, so I did some research and found out that it is was Jive Turkey's STI. It's actually totaled now thanks to a drunk driver.

Actual details on his build here: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-membe...she-great.html
Details on his current BRZ build here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2421256

It was still a sick looking car.

Last edited by iVolke; 01-28-2014 at 01:39 AM.
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:20 AM   #697
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:25 PM   #698
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Hey, I'm somewhat new to the area and was wondering if you guys have meets still? or is it too cold right now? I've just been going to work and straight home and getting bored :/
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:25 PM   #699
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Hey, I'm somewhat new to the area and was wondering if you guys have meets still? or is it too cold right now? I've just been going to work and straight home and getting bored :/
We sometime meet up for lunch on the weekend but don't schedule meets every week. There is a meet tomorrow at El coco loco in west Chicago at 7pm. It's in the thread about west Chicago in this section.
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:17 PM   #700
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January 30, 2014 THURSDAY El Coco Loco 205 Main Street West Chicago, IL 60185 630.293.1101 Meet at 7pm...lets try some dollar tacos and 1/2 off margaritas!! Its on...food thatll heat us up during this snowy winter!
Here's the event.
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