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Old 02-10-2014, 04:37 PM   #1726
YZ86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10MTN-bugeye View Post
YZ, what is your alternator/manifold setup like? Will you FPR clear the alternator, with stock manifold and alternator orientation or do you have the alternator or the manifold flipped? My spare manifold is setup almost the same, just not as shiny, and I'm thinking the FPR will conflict with something.
Going to reverse manifold, thats why I mounted the FPR on the back side of the mani
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:12 AM   #1727
banshee04
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Just got done with my fuel system today.....

FIC 2150cc Injectors
x2 Walbro 450lph E85 Pumps
-8 Feed (Fragola Push-Lite Hose)
-6 Return (Fragola Push Lite Hose)
Holley Fuel Filter (40 Micron, Stainless Filter)





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Old 02-24-2014, 03:34 AM   #1728
spoolinsti05
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Nice what fpr?
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:38 AM   #1729
King of Poop
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I just picked up my aeromotive rails. Can't wait to start building! Thanks for all the inspiration!
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:55 PM   #1730
banshee04
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Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
Nice what fpr?
Im using an AEM AFPR. Im thinking about switching to an Aeromotive.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:44 PM   #1731
spoolinsti05
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Originally Posted by banshee04 View Post
Im using an AEM AFPR. Im thinking about switching to an Aeromotive.

Won't hold pressure right?
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:36 PM   #1732
banshee04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
Won't hold pressure right?
It seems to hold pressure just fine. I just know that the Aeromotive's are meant and have been proven for higher power. We shall see what happens though. I really don't want to go and start replacing parts when I don't have to.
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:03 AM   #1733
spoolinsti05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banshee04 View Post
It seems to hold pressure just fine. I just know that the Aeromotive's are meant and have been proven for higher power. We shall see what happens though. I really don't want to go and start replacing parts when I don't have to.

So you have a in cabin fuel pressure gauge to verify that? Or you can be cheap but effective like me use a oil pressure gauge hang it from the wiper blade lol
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:23 PM   #1734
banshee04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
So you have a in cabin fuel pressure gauge to verify that? Or you can be cheap but effective like me use a oil pressure gauge hang it from the wiper blade lol
No, but we were looking at the gauge on the FPR when we were making dyno pulls and it was holding fine. Then again, that was with one DW300 fuel pump. I dont know if it will change since there are two Walbro 450lph pumps.We shall see though!
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:14 PM   #1735
stretchnuts
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Hey guys have an issue and didnt know if I should start a new thread or not.

I have a dual 400 walbro setup with e85. One of the pumps is on the "stock" wiring with the stock fuel pump relay. The second is wired with a separate relay. I am on a precision 6765 BB with 2100cc injectors.

Long story short after running lean on the number 1 cylinder on the dyno (melted spark plug ground strap, compression amazingly good) I found I was only running on one pump. I found that the "stock" fuel pump relay was bad. I swapped in one of the relays that was mounted next to it, and the pump kicked on and primed properly (I unplugged the other relay to confirm operation).

So after putting in the new relay I idled the car for a bit, and noticed the relay got pretty stinking hot. Upon closer investigation of the failed relay the top left and bottom left spade were not the normal copper color but were discolored like they've gotten really hot.

Sooo my question is, is the walbro drawing too much amperage for the stock relay, or do I have a possible short upstream?

The other pump's relay doesnt get warm or have any issues during operation. Any help?
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:09 PM   #1736
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Found this: The 400 lph pump draws 11.9 amps at 40 psi (idle basically) and 14.2 amps at 70 psi of rail pressure and 15 amps at 80 psi of rail pressure. Stock pump looks to draw about 12 amps max.
Are you running power for the second relay off the stock wire? How do you actuate the second pump's relay? What's that stock relay's fuse size?
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:25 PM   #1737
stretchnuts
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Power I believe is spliced off the stock wire, I bought the car with mods so I am not 100% sure.

The signal wire is the stock one from the control module, both will prime normally and at the same time.

I was not aware there was a fuel pump fuse, or a rating associated with the stock relay.
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:39 PM   #1738
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Verification of a short should be as follows. Using a volt meter check for continuity to ground from wire on the power side. If continuous then short is present.
They also sell these short finding devices that make pin pointing the short way easier.
It sounds more like the pump that your running is just pulling too much amperage for the stock wiring. Grimmspeed and Buschur both have upgraded fuel pump wiring kits that you can buy. If suggest just getting two of those and wiring both pumps with them.
Another option would be to use a new fuel pump controller like a Dccd pro this would allow you to retain speed control of one pump (vastly extending the life spam of that pump btw).
I could probably come up with a few more scenarios but they all involve upgrading the wiring. Stock wiring is not enough for a pump that big. Nor is the stock Fuel pump controller
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Old 02-25-2014, 04:32 PM   #1739
stretchnuts
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Ok thanks for the help, if there was a short would the pump/relay still function?

Ill look into those short finders, but I wouldn't even know where to start looking for a short, I hate electrical troubleshooting. It could take days of searching for something that takes minutes to fix.
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Old 02-25-2014, 04:48 PM   #1740
banshee04
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With those pumps, you have to upgrade the wiring for safety's sake and to get the most out of it. Each pump needs its own individual relay. I went with a 40A relay and 10AWG for each pump. It might be over kill, but I know that I wont have any problems out of the setup.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:15 PM   #1741
stretchnuts
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Good to know...the other relay is a 40a one that's labeled...peculiar as to why the previous owner/installer choose to set it up as such.

As far as wiring it, can I just cut off the plug for the relay and wire in a new one instead of chasing down wires from the control module?
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:28 PM   #1742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchnuts View Post
Good to know...the other relay is a 40a one that's labeled...peculiar as to why the previous owner/installer choose to set it up as such.

As far as wiring it, can I just cut off the plug for the relay and wire in a new one instead of chasing down wires from the control module?
Search back a few pages on this thread. There are wiring diagrams at your disposal
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:42 PM   #1743
bswilmington
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321WHP 422WTQ dynojet SAE

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I'm not to sure if its posted anywhere in here, but I've read of few people doing this and would like some feedback if anyone has any on this.

I've got a Walbro 400 and I'm looking to install it here shortly. I have a 06 Sti with the FP controller. I would like to run 10g wire from the battery with fuse to the pump and then use the normal ground circuit so that the controller can do the normal 33-66-100%.

I know that hard wiring the pump would be better for flow, but I'm running a Dom 1.5 with ID 1k so this should be plenty of fuel and would perfer to keep the controller if possible so pump isn't 100% all the time and keep system as simple as possible. Does anyone see any problems with this idea? Any feedback if anyone has done this?
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:20 PM   #1744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bswilmington View Post
I'm not to sure if its posted anywhere in here, but I've read of few people doing this and would like some feedback if anyone has any on this.

I've got a Walbro 400 and I'm looking to install it here shortly. I have a 06 Sti with the FP controller. I would like to run 10g wire from the battery with fuse to the pump and then use the normal ground circuit so that the controller can do the normal 33-66-100%.

I know that hard wiring the pump would be better for flow, but I'm running a Dom 1.5 with ID 1k so this should be plenty of fuel and would perfer to keep the controller if possible so pump isn't 100% all the time and keep system as simple as possible. Does anyone see any problems with this idea? Any feedback if anyone has done this?
I've done quite a bit of research on this and have found that the most problem free way to do this is with a new fuel pump controller like a unit from dccd pro. It is posted in here as to how to theoretically use the factory speed controller using either a solid state relay or a mosfet. Not too many people go that route because the wiring can be intimidating. I my self was going to try and build one of these switching circuits bit decided that for the price you can't beat a Dccd pro controller.
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:48 PM   #1745
bswilmington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpongeBobSquarePants View Post
I've done quite a bit of research on this and have found that the most problem free way to do this is with a new fuel pump controller like a unit from dccd pro. It is posted in here as to how to theoretically use the factory speed controller using either a solid state relay or a mosfet. Not too many people go that route because the wiring can be intimidating. I my self was going to try and build one of these switching circuits bit decided that for the price you can't beat a Dccd pro controller.
Well DCCD pro stated the controller is only good for average of 15A. Honestly Im not to sure if its actually better than factory controller except for the fact that most probaly upgrade the wiring to the controller and pump. If I go with anything other than the way I listed, it will be with simple relay setup as that is almost free and I'll deal with the side effects of running the pump 100% all the time or if I need more fuel I'll add a kenny bell boost-a-pump. Most likely I'm going to try the way I listed unless someone who has tried it and failed or good reason is given not to do it.

Plus what really confuses me is people rewire the pumps without the controller and then from what I understand they use the connector wiring and pins. I would think these would be as much of resistance as the wiring.
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Old 02-26-2014, 05:42 AM   #1746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCCDPro View Post
Hi guys,

Just wanted to let you all know that we have made improvements to our product and
17-18 Amps @ 13.5 volts is easily accommodated well over time periods you have mentioned above. Yes, as you have mentioned, heat transfer is one of the aspects and we have made improvement on that front too.

Kind regards,
-Jeff
This is a quote directly from Dccd
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Old 02-26-2014, 07:18 AM   #1747
bswilmington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpongeBobSquarePants View Post
This is a quote directly from Dccd

Interesting, didn't see that one. But still not going to spend that kind of money on another controller

I'll just straight wire it and forget it before I spend couple hundred dollars.
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Old 02-26-2014, 07:33 AM   #1748
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It is about $150. Or you will pay another. $200 for another pump if the car is your dd.

Last edited by jockeygolfs; 02-26-2014 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:03 AM   #1749
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Originally Posted by bswilmington View Post

Interesting, didn't see that one. But still not going to spend that kind of money on another controller

I'll just straight wire it and forget it before I spend couple hundred dollars.
Most in tank pumps in the 400lph range are right around $150+ so the first time you have to do a pump it would have paid for the fpc. Just sayin
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:22 AM   #1750
manitou
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The Walbro 400 series are rated for 10,000 hrs. at 100% duty. Wiring direct full time with 10-12 gauge wire is not going to kill the pump. Make sure you put in a same size ground wire.
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