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Old 08-09-2006, 06:45 PM   #1
ooberdoob
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Five Subarus later I
drive a lifted TJ.

Exclamation Subaru TSB for Sticking Clutch

Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB

NUMBER: 03-52-03R
DATE: 07/15/03

APPLICABILITY:
1995-2002MY Legacy;
1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and
1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles.
All models have Manual Transmission.

SUBJECT:
Clutch Pedal Sticking (revised)

INTRODUCTION

In the event you encounter a customer complaint of the clutch pedal
not returning completely after being engaged, or has a spongy pedal
feel or a light feel in the shifting pedal while shifting, the
following repair method should be followed. This condition may affect
certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system
under certain weather conditions.

PROCEDURE

To correct this condition you must replace the parts in the chart that
match your vehicle using the following procedure:

For Natural Aspiration models with hydraulic clutches

1) Remove the intake chamber from the backside of the intake manifold.

2) Remove the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder in this
procedure it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder, the
clutch pipe and bracket.

3) Replace the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder with new
parts as listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N
114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be
replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening
torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.
lbs.

4) Bolt the operating cylinder onto the transmission.

5) Add brake fluid.

6) Bleed the air from the system.

7) Install the intake chamber.

8) Check the following items:

a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid
leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.

b) Check whether the clutch performs normally.



For Turbo models

1) Remove the intercooler.

2) Remove the dutch operating cylinder hose. In this procedure, the
clutch master cylinder, clutch pipe and bracket are unnecessary to be
removed.

3) Replace the clutch hose that was removed with the new one listed in
the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the
connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones
when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37
+/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.lbs.

4) Add brake fluid.

5) Bleed the air from the system.

6) Install the intercooler.

7) Check the following items:

a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid
leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.



b) Check whether the clutch performs normally.

This change was incorporated in production after the VIN numbers shown.

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Old 08-09-2006, 08:46 PM   #2
janikphoto
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that 27 ft lbs is not exactly right... I tried that and wound up busting my banjo bolt. Had to wait almost a week for a new one. It too didn't feel like it would take the whole 27 ft lbs, so i did about 22 lbs instead. No leaks, so I think it's ok...
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Old 08-09-2006, 09:00 PM   #3
ooberdoob
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drive a lifted TJ.

Default

i'll agree with that, i don't always use a tq wrench... most often just go by feel.

Last edited by ooberdoob; 08-23-2006 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 08-10-2006, 03:30 AM   #4
spdracr00
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Red

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so can i print this and take it to my dealer and say "fix it!"?
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Old 08-10-2006, 04:04 AM   #5
janikphoto
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sold Outback & ForesterXT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdracr00
so can i print this and take it to my dealer and say "fix it!"?
probably not. The dealer doesn't HAVE to do it. It is only a bulletin. That means subaru is saying, "here's how to fix a flaw in our car design that we don't officially admit is OUR fault."

My car had 70k miles on it at the time the clutch slave went out, so I just paid for it myself. You can go the cheaper route and avoid replacing the clutch hose. It should be ok. Just get the crush washers and the operating (slave) cylinder (and maybe an extra banjo bolt to be safe)...

It is such a quick fix. Took me 20 minutes (plus a week waiting for a new banjo bolt). Just be sure to have a fresh bottle of brake fluid on hand to refill and bleed the clutch.
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Old 08-10-2006, 04:07 AM   #6
spdracr00
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Red

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i just noticed this starting to happen during the last streak of really hot weather.. looks like i need to fix it.
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Old 08-10-2006, 08:44 AM   #7
ooberdoob
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the slave is like $50 at advance.

or $26 through my work

no i won't get you one and ship it.
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Old 08-10-2006, 12:48 PM   #8
DLC
out back
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Blue/Bronze

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Added to FAQ, thanks.
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Old 08-10-2006, 04:53 PM   #9
janikphoto
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sold Outback & ForesterXT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdracr00
i just noticed this starting to happen during the last streak of really hot weather.. looks like i need to fix it.
yup, that's when it happens. It will get worse real quick. better fix it now cause the problem won't go away on its own...

By the way, for all the super-frugal people here, you MAY be able to slow down the problem by removing the slave and cleaning under the boot where the piston is. I noticed a bunch of gunk in mine that obviously caused the problem to get worse and worse. Just a thought. Personally, I'd rather just spend the $50 for a new part and call it a day.
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Old 08-10-2006, 05:42 PM   #10
ooberdoob
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thanks for the FAQ move!!
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Old 08-11-2006, 03:44 PM   #11
MY99 2.5GT
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05 Legacy GT 06 Armada

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+1 for this repair.

This one really messed with me for a while. Unfortunitely my clutch/flywheel took a pretty good beating because of that stupid stuck slave cylinder. After replacing it the feel and engage/dissengage was better then ever before.
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Old 08-11-2006, 10:22 PM   #12
ooberdoob
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drive a lifted TJ.

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i get my new slave monday. oontz
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:47 AM   #13
belacane
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Thanks for this! Might save my butt
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:26 PM   #14
ivwshane
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Hello!

Noob here.

I just purchased a used 2000 forester and one of the issues with it is not only a sticking clutch medal but also it appears that in order to engage the clutch I have to push it really far down (past the point where it gets stuck).

My question is; are these two issues related? Or is there more that needs to be done to fix a deep pedal press?

Also and I don't know if this is in a sticky or not (I'll check), but are there preferred places to buy subaru parts?
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Old 12-17-2013, 04:48 AM   #15
nepbug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivwshane View Post
Hello!

Noob here.

I just purchased a used 2000 forester and one of the issues with it is not only a sticking clutch medal but also it appears that in order to engage the clutch I have to push it really far down (past the point where it gets stuck).

My question is; are these two issues related? Or is there more that needs to be done to fix a deep pedal press?

Also and I don't know if this is in a sticky or not (I'll check), but are there preferred places to buy subaru parts?
First a clarification, when you press your clutch you're actually disengaging your clutch.

It's very likely that if you buy the updated slave cylinder and hose all of your problems will go away.

There are lots of places to buy the parts, subarugenuineparts.com subaruonlineparts.com, subarupartsforyou.com, eBay, etc. just search for the best deal.
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:32 PM   #16
Andy1128
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I get my slave monday for my 2007 legacy.. Is it the same process?
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:57 PM   #17
ivwshane
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I bought a new clutch slave, hose, and washers, the problem has gone away about 98% of the time, is there something I need to clean or address with the pedal assembly itself?
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Old 05-26-2014, 06:33 PM   #18
ivwshane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivwshane View Post
I bought a new clutch slave, hose, and washers, the problem has gone away about 98% of the time, is there something I need to clean or address with the pedal assembly itself?
I just thought I'd update my experience.

I ended up replacing the master cylinder as well and that fixed the problem completely.
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