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Old 09-01-2013, 03:42 AM   #51
IceWilly
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Yes, that it was. Stuff was serious, and made me feel like an autozone chump with my inferior product.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:15 PM   #52
Blktrax
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I've had really good luck with this if you can find a supply.

https://shoponline.wurthusa.com/wurt...log/group.jsp/



Quote:
This product represents the latest breakthrough in penetrating lubricant technology. By combining rapid freezing action with an advanced, rust eating formula, seized or rusted parts are easily released. Shrinkage of sprayed parts quickly breaks open micro fine fissures allowing the lubricant to easily penetrate through the toughest rust. The innovative rust eating technology then dissolves rust making the job a snap and future maintenance easier as well.
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Old 09-02-2013, 06:02 PM   #53
kenliu84
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I recommend getting a new bolt and bushing. You might as well swap out to a better set of lateral link bushings but that's just me. When installing the new one, be liberal with anti-seize, you just need it at the points where it makes contact with the bushing sleeves and the nut.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:54 AM   #54
Jeffreynn
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Well i am just trying to get, this factor arranged and not actually substitute the bushing. I understand that is not not going to help me later on, when i do need to substitute the bushing.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:42 AM   #55
Uncle Scotty
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if you guys want to try some really good cheap rust buster......get

1qt acetone
1qt dexron atf
1 old motor oil bottle

pour 1/2qt acetone in the old motor oil bottle
pour 1/2qt dexron atf into old motor oil bottle

pour 1/2qt acetone into remaining dexron atf

yeild = 2qt rust buster delux

**** works

it IS a bit flamable so beware using a torch around it
but it works better that all but the best of the rest and costs very little if you find cheap acetone
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:07 AM   #56
atomicfire
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Hint: remove the inboard lateral link bolts first, then when you remove the nut from the ourboard side you can remove the lateral link and long hub bolt as one piece. Once it's out, get the three arm press and use it to press the bushing and bolt out together.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2409546

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Old 11-16-2013, 08:01 PM   #57
dagger108
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Comments generally seem to be oriented to removing bolts. I've got the links and arms removed and powder coated, with new TiC bushings installed. All are mounted again accept for the rear driver's side. The exhaust is in the way. I recall pushing the exhaust to get the bolt out, and have tried pushing it a lot to get it back in, but unsuccessfully. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:29 PM   #58
jlukowski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagger108 View Post
Comments generally seem to be oriented to removing bolts. I've got the links and arms removed and powder coated, with new TiC bushings installed. All are mounted again accept for the rear driver's side. The exhaust is in the way. I recall pushing the exhaust to get the bolt out, and have tried pushing it a lot to get it back in, but unsuccessfully. Any suggestions?
Maybe undo the catback exhaust hangers and let the exhaust drop a bit to allow you to encourage the bolt to go where it needs to. Then put the exhaust back up when you are done.
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Old 11-16-2013, 09:15 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by jlukowski View Post
Maybe undo the catback exhaust hangers and let the exhaust drop a bit to allow you to encourage the bolt to go where it needs to. Then put the exhaust back up when you are done.
(slaps forehead with palm)

Had thought about it from the standpoint of trying to push the exhaust higher, but not of moving it down or laterally.
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Old 11-26-2013, 04:48 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlukowski View Post
Maybe undo the catback exhaust hangers and let the exhaust drop a bit to allow you to encourage the bolt to go where it needs to. Then put the exhaust back up when you are done.
Dropping the exhaust definitely works, and makes it easy. Also easiest to start by removing the bolted hanger on the outside rear of the muffler.
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:49 PM   #61
99screwbaru
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hahaha the stories of the nightmares people are having with this damn bolt is funny, i like the taco picture too.....snapped the head of the lateral link bolt trying to remove it while doing rear axles in my 2002 wrx sedan --__-- tomorrow i think I'm just going to remove the whole knuckle and get it on a work bench and burn out the bushings i have new bushings and bolt then i should be a o.k. and be able to FINISH my rear axle job, pissed i had to go a nibble bibbly and dick with this snapped bolt when all i wanted to do was a simple rear axle job
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:48 PM   #62
dagger108
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Default Burning can be fun

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Originally Posted by 99screwbaru View Post
hahaha the stories of the nightmares people are having with this damn bolt is funny, i like the taco picture too.....snapped the head of the lateral link bolt trying to remove it while doing rear axles in my 2002 wrx sedan --__-- tomorrow i think I'm just going to remove the whole knuckle and get it on a work bench and burn out the bushings i have new bushings and bolt then i should be a o.k. and be able to FINISH my rear axle job, pissed i had to go a nibble bibbly and dick with this snapped bolt when all i wanted to do was a simple rear axle job
I found it quicker to take a drill and drill the rubber out, or at least enough so that the bushing caves in. Cutting off the shoulder of the rubber bushing with a utility knife helps the bushing slide out easier as well

$0.02
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:52 PM   #63
99screwbaru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagger108 View Post
I found it quicker to take a drill and drill the rubber out, or at least enough so that the bushing caves in. Cutting off the shoulder of the rubber bushing with a utility knife helps the bushing slide out easier as well

$0.02
reallly? I've heard nightmare stories of people taking 4 days to drill this bolt out haha ,, I'm going to try and cut the bushing out I've already half burned it out before my benzo torch ran out
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:45 AM   #64
dagger108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99screwbaru View Post
reallly? I've heard nightmare stories of people taking 4 days to drill this bolt out haha ,, I'm going to try and cut the bushing out I've already half burned it out before my benzo torch ran out
Most of the multi-day experiences I recall were of the bolt through the knuckle. After a couple dozen F/R in the last year, it is one thing I have gotten halfway proficient at.
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Old 01-01-2015, 05:25 AM   #65
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Dragging this up from the dead as, after a long time not wrenching on a scoob, I'm finally dealing with an older, salted and rusted car. Call me new car SoCal spoiled!

Anyway, does this bolt tend to seize at the knuckle or at the bushing? We were able to remove the front lat link(and nut) but the rear is going nowhere. Can't get the bolt to rotate. So I was wondering if it might be seized at the bushing or at the knuckle. Can these seize at the knuckle? I'm worried that if we cut the head off the bolt, we still have to deal with it being seized in the knuckle. What have your experiences been with where the bolt actually seizes to?

Toe bolts are also seized. And don't get me started on the various bolts that sheared off while trying to remove them from the chassis. Like the big 19mm bolts that hold the ALK(transverse link bushing) to the chassis.
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:21 AM   #66
Big-E
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The bolt seizes to the bushing-sleeve.
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Old 01-01-2015, 01:15 PM   #67
lemming
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I've had one seize itself to the hub, too. That one was fun.
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Old 01-01-2015, 01:22 PM   #68
kenliu84
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I would soak the crap out of all contact surfaces with rust penetrant for now while you figure things out.

In my experience, I've had the bolt seize to the bushing sleeve. I had an impact gun and it was having a hard time getting the built to turn because it was fighting against the friction between the bushing and the housing of the rear lateral link.

I am guessing that based on my experience and you saying you can't rotate the bolt, then it is seized to the knuckle. Good luck!

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Old 01-01-2015, 03:46 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnie View Post
Dragging this up from the dead as, after a long time not wrenching on a scoob, I'm finally dealing with an older, salted and rusted car. Call me new car SoCal spoiled!
Jesus, haven't seen you since the stone age!

The bolt tends to always seize to the bushing's inner core and often will seize to the knuckle as well. Hose everything down a couple of days ahead of time in Kroil (if you don't own it, buy it, you're going to need it). At this point, if both the outer and inner end of the rear lateral link are stuck, your best bet might be to cut the lateral link in half so you can free each end individually. Lateral links are pretty damned cheap. If you can save yourself 8 hours of work for $30, you probably ought to.
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:47 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Jesus, haven't seen you since the stone age!

The bolt tends to always seize to the bushing's inner core and often will seize to the knuckle as well. Hose everything down a couple of days ahead of time in Kroil (if you don't own it, buy it, you're going to need it). At this point, if both the outer and inner end of the rear lateral link are stuck, your best bet might be to cut the lateral link in half so you can free each end individually. Lateral links are pretty damned cheap. If you can save yourself 8 hours of work for $30, you probably ought to.

yep...cut the link...its usually worth it in the end if its a rust belt car
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Old 02-18-2015, 02:07 AM   #71
bzoli
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I'm in the same shoes... just bought a can of kroil and started to soak it, I really hope that I can save the lateral links as I have already bought the group n bushings.
I couldnt even remove the nuts let alone pulling out the bolt from the bushings.
The good thing is that you can buy all bolts and nuts from Subaru ($110 if you replace all hardware - just sum'd up all PN's today) incase you have to cut it.
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