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Old 08-17-2013, 03:28 PM   #1
Mr Wrex
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Default 2012 WRX p0018

Here's an update for anyone else that gets this code after a rebuild:
Since this code is for timing, naturally the first step I took was checking that the timing belt was lined up correctly (and it was). Next, I checked for any silicone, bearing fragments, or oil sludge that could have been contaminating the oil system. There was no debriis in the oil hoses or on the cam/crank sensors, so I swapped the Oil Control Valves from side to side. This did not get rid of the code as expected, since obdII scanner was showing an OCV duty cycle on both sides of 10% (the typical value). As a last ditch, I used a rubber mallet to gently tap on the center of the driver side intake cam sprocket to see if there was any particulates preventing the inner phaser mechanism from advancing/retarding timing (*note* this was done while the engine was on and fully warmed up). After a minute of varied tapping, the obdII scanner showed the AVCS left/right timing values were zero degrees.

I took it for a quick test drive and the timing wasn't advancing/retarding as it normally does, so I reset the ECU and tried again. The second test drive was a success! This was done about two days ago and the code has not come back since, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Since then, I have reset the ECU multiple times when the car was cold and let the car warm up so the ECU could re-learn all of the values. Each ECU reset has been successful, so i am fairly confident I have fixed my problem.



I asked a Subaru mechanic today about how I "fixed" the p0018 CEL and he told me that it is common for the cam sprockets to get clogged/damaged when an engine has a failure as bad as mine (spun rod bearing and broken ringland). Hopefully, this information can help anyone with this code figure it out.

Original Post:
Quote:
Hey guys. Long story short, just got my car back from having my engine rebuilt and I got a p0018 code. I have searched about this code and I know it's the passenger side AVCS, but I'm stumped as to what is causing it. So far, I eliminated the possibility of the timing belt being off a tooth or a dirty banjo filter screen, which leaves me with:
-silicone in cam or oil control valve
-broken sensor (I'm pretty sure these have been cleaned)
-pinched hose

Because this is a new engine, I'm keeping the boost under 2psi and 3500rpm while breaking it in. I only notice this CEL sometimes when I pop it into a neutral and stop at a light or stop sign... sometimes it happens minutes after I park and leave the car on. I took some logs and I see that the left AVCS is at 22 degrees, whereas the right AVCS sits around 9-10. With this information, where should I look next?

Summary:
-idles fine (idles like **** when the CEL comes up)
-CEL only occurs after stopping and waiting ~30 seconds
-22 degrees left AVCS, 10 degrees right AVCS no matter how hard I go on the throttle
-already checked driver-side OCV, cam sensor, crank sensor
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Last edited by Mr Wrex; 08-26-2013 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:23 PM   #2
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This guy had similar issues after a rebuild. Turns out that the wrong intake cam oil control valves were installed. Shot in the dark

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...or-code-2.html
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:51 PM   #3
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My builder marked everything correctly while taking it apart, but now you have me thinking there may be pieces of rod bearing stuck in the OCV... is that even possible for the larger pieces of bearing to travel into there? Is it possible to remove it while the block is still on the car? Also, is it bad to drive when the delta between the two cam banks is around 12 degrees?

Last edited by Mr Wrex; 08-17-2013 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:08 AM   #4
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Update:
Out of nowhere, the left/right AVCS degrees both went to zero when I fired the car up this morning and let it warm up. I watched both values go between 2-40 degrees while driving around and everything seemed fine. After driving 30 miles on the highway, I stopped quick in a parking lot and that p0018 came back again When the sensors are at 22 and 10 degrees, they always stay around those values when driving no matter the change in engine load. Any idea what could cause that? Faulty sensor(s)? Loose connection(s)?

Last edited by Mr Wrex; 08-18-2013 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:08 AM   #5
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EDIT:
Accidental duplicate post

Last edited by Mr Wrex; 08-18-2013 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:07 AM   #6
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Another update:
This morning I was driving around and out of nowhere, my AVCS sensor values went down to zero degrees like they should be at idle. Typically, my sensors would read 22 and 10 degrees and stay at those values no matter how hard I was into the throttle, but this morning those values were changing as I was accelerating or slowing down. To me, this seems like a sensor problem... whether it's the harnesses or the sensors themselves, would this be a possible reason why I'm seeing such odd values and getting the p0018 CEL?
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:12 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Wrex View Post
Another update:
This morning I was driving around and out of nowhere, my AVCS sensor values went down to zero degrees like they should be at idle. Typically, my sensors would read 22 and 10 degrees and stay at those values no matter how hard I was into the throttle, but this morning those values were changing as I was accelerating or slowing down. To me, this seems like a sensor problem... whether it's the harnesses or the sensors themselves, would this be a possible reason why I'm seeing such odd values and getting the p0018 CEL?
Yes. Also, feed lines and solenoids, clogged oil passages and messed up cam gears.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstroy View Post
Yes. Also, feed lines and solenoids, clogged oil passages and messed up cam gears.
Checked all of those except the exhaust cam gear. Also checked the timing belt to make sure the marks lined up. Hopefully I have time to check the cam tomorrow... this really doesn't make any sense to me anymore
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:22 PM   #9
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If the cam checks out, wiring.... -_-
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:37 PM   #10
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I saw no problems with the wiring... even shook it around to make sure none of it was frayed. I was sure it was wiring/sensors since this problem is intermittent, but everything seems to have checked out so far. The only thing I think I have left to check is the mechanism in the cam gear that advances/retards timing, which sounds like a total pain.

Last edited by Mr Wrex; 08-20-2013 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:42 PM   #11
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I would be talking to the guy that built your motor.
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:41 PM   #12
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Already did. I brought it to him twice already and watched him pull sensors, clean oil lines... you name it. The code still pops up and there's very little info on why most people get this code, which is why I'm trying to see if anyone else has more ideas before I cave and have the block stripped again. I'm tempted to remove the filter screens from the banjo bolts, but I think I'm going to hold off until the engine is fully broken in so debris won't get into my turbo.

Adding more additional research:
-Whenever I reset the ECU, the left/right AVCS values will default to 22 and 10 respectively no matter what
-It seems that if I reset the ECU, start the car when it's cold, and wait approximately 5 minutes, the AVCS left/right values will drop to zero degrees and advance/retard at the same time while driving (throwing a CEL at this point does not affect these readings)
-If I reset the ECU when the engine is warm, the left/right values will stay at 22 and 10 respectively no matter how long I wait or what I do
-Pulling the wire plugs off both OCVs does not affect the values I'm logging from my AP

Now... seeing that bank 2 (drivers side) has a higher AVCS degree, is it possible that it is causing bank 1 not to go to 0 degrees at idle? I know oil pressure controls how far the cam sprockets advance/retard, but would the ECU be responsible for advancing bank 1 to 10 degrees so the variance between both banks isn't too large?
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:44 AM   #13
Mr Wrex
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Default

Here's an update for anyone else that gets this code after a rebuild:
Since this code is for timing, naturally the first step I took was checking that the timing belt was lined up correctly (and it was). Next, I checked for any silicone, bearing fragments, or oil sludge that could have been contaminating the oil system. There was no debriis in the oil hoses or on the cam/crank sensors, so I swapped the Oil Control Valves from side to side. This did not get rid of the code as expected, since obdII scanner was showing an OCV duty cycle on both sides of 10% (the typical value). As a last ditch, I used a rubber mallet to gently tap on the center of the driver side intake cam sprocket to see if there was any particulates preventing the inner phaser mechanism from advancing/retarding timing (*note* this was done while the engine was on and fully warmed up). After a minute of varied tapping, the obdII scanner showed the AVCS left/right timing values were zero degrees.

I took it for a quick test drive and the timing wasn't advancing/retarding as it normally does, so I reset the ECU and tried again. The second test drive was a success! This was done about two days ago and the code has not come back since, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Since then, I have reset the ECU multiple times when the car was cold and let the car warm up so the ECU could re-learn all of the values. Each ECU reset has been successful, so i am fairly confident I have fixed my problem.



I asked a Subaru mechanic today about how I "fixed" the p0018 CEL and he told me that it is common for the cam sprockets to get clogged/damaged when an engine has a failure as bad as mine (spun rod bearing and broken ringland). Hopefully, this information can help anyone with this code figure it out.
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Old 11-15-2013, 04:33 AM   #14
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my car just popped a p0018 also. My story was just a bit different.

Long story short ... ******* pulled in front slam on the brake, brake check and cause a pile up. 3 cars +. Mine being in the middle, my whole radiator, rad fan air, airbox, coolant, window fluids, battery, 2 headlights... front center impact pretty much and not bad in rear ...

Nothing was damage to the engine, only engine cover.

my questions are ... might the cams sensor be malfunction after that accident? My avcs left/right are both at 0 degree upon start... not a rebuild engine. So with my supra intelligent process of eliminations, it might just need a replacement sensor?

I do not intend to high jack this thread, just want to add for the non rebuilt engine troubleshoot.

***EDIT***
The engine @ idle is smooth. Nothing feel out of the ordinary other than p0018.
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:31 AM   #15
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Is that the only code you saw? Does the CEL come on instantly after resetting the ECU? Also, what car are you referring to?
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:32 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmlittlebigman View Post
I would be talking to the guy that built your motor.
the question I would ask...what are the torque specs for avcs cam sprockets?

58 ft-lbs

and how do you secure the cam sprocket while torqueing cam sprocket bolts?

either factory cam sprocket wrench or old timing belt.

then if the answers are correct then avcs solenoid or sprockets
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxscuby View Post
the question I would ask...what are the torque specs for avcs cam sprockets?

58 ft-lbs

and how do you secure the cam sprocket while torqueing cam sprocket bolts?

either factory cam sprocket wrench or old timing belt.

then if the answers are correct then avcs solenoid or sprockets
Someone bumped my thread with a similar issue

The problem was the driver side cam sprocket. When I tapped it with a rubber mallet, it went away for a little while but came back. About 3 weeks ago, I was fed up with it so I ripped the sprocket off and dissected it to find debris inside of it, so I replaced it. It has been working fine ever since.

On a side note, do we have a FAQ about the AVCS inner workings? I have plenty of pics of what the cam sprocket looks like when busted open and I have yet to see any similar pics on this forum, let alone google.
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:16 PM   #18
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Link plz. And yes, the answer to your question is that is the only code that is showing, p0018.

Its been bothering me... I really do not know and would let to trouble shoot before buying parts...
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:21 PM   #19
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Default 2010 Wrx P0018

Noob here, I also got the dreaded P0018 code on a 2010 WRX 55K miles Stage 2 and after reading how to troubleshoot it here on this forum I started by resetting the ECU...code came back, I then removed and cleaned both Camshaft Position Sensors, I reset the ECU and the code came back on after about 50 miles. I installed a new drive side CPS and checked to make sure the wiring harness was intact and you guessed it the code came back after 25 miles. I finally made an appointment at my local Subaru dealer and was lucky enough to get a enthusiastic mechanic who really loves his job and took the time to check the Bango bolts, ACVS and rechecked the wiring harness and sensors. They all checked out to be in working order. Finally he removed the timing belt covers and checked the timing and walla the timing was off 2 teeth. Damage came to $660.00 and he installed a new OEM timing belt. He also found that the left side swaybar endlink was damaged and I was missing a downpipe bracket that holds the DP to the trans which he installed free of charge. The Stage 2 cancelled my warranty so it was all out of pocket.
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:01 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXsubbie View Post
Noob here, I also got the dreaded P0018 code on a 2010 WRX 55K miles Stage 2 and after reading how to troubleshoot it here on this forum I started by resetting the ECU...code came back, I then removed and cleaned both Camshaft Position Sensors, I reset the ECU and the code came back on after about 50 miles. I installed a new drive side CPS and checked to make sure the wiring harness was intact and you guessed it the code came back after 25 miles. I finally made an appointment at my local Subaru dealer and was lucky enough to get a enthusiastic mechanic who really loves his job and took the time to check the Bango bolts, ACVS and rechecked the wiring harness and sensors. They all checked out to be in working order. Finally he removed the timing belt covers and checked the timing and walla the timing was off 2 teeth. Damage came to $660.00 and he installed a new OEM timing belt. He also found that the left side swaybar endlink was damaged and I was missing a downpipe bracket that holds the DP to the trans which he installed free of charge. The Stage 2 cancelled my warranty so it was all out of pocket.
Just wanted to post this for anyone "fortunate" enough to get the p0018 with a similar description posted above. If the code comes on every time after an ECU reset, it's typically due to timing being off from teeth skipping.

Glad you found out the problem, but sorry to hear about the $660 charge
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:33 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXsubbie View Post
Noob here, I also got the dreaded P0018 code on a 2010 WRX 55K miles Stage 2 and after reading how to troubleshoot it here on this forum I started by resetting the ECU...code came back, I then removed and cleaned both Camshaft Position Sensors, I reset the ECU and the code came back on after about 50 miles. I installed a new drive side CPS and checked to make sure the wiring harness was intact and you guessed it the code came back after 25 miles. I finally made an appointment at my local Subaru dealer and was lucky enough to get a enthusiastic mechanic who really loves his job and took the time to check the Bango bolts, ACVS and rechecked the wiring harness and sensors. They all checked out to be in working order. Finally he removed the timing belt covers and checked the timing and walla the timing was off 2 teeth. Damage came to $660.00 and he installed a new OEM timing belt. He also found that the left side swaybar endlink was damaged and I was missing a downpipe bracket that holds the DP to the trans which he installed free of charge. The Stage 2 cancelled my warranty so it was all out of pocket.
How would stage 2 mods cause timing to jump. You got robbed son.
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:14 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Razgeiz View Post

How would stage 2 mods cause timing to jump. You got robbed son.
No mods should cause a timing belt to jump....

Timing belts jump on stock cars too.

Last edited by JimmyBoyWRX; 03-10-2014 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:36 PM   #23
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Update! Drove the car approximately 100 miles and you guessed it the CEL P0018 came back on. I took the car to my friends at EFI and spoke with Rob and he said exactly what you guys are saying...mods and ECU being flashed will not make the timing belt jump! His conclusion was that whoever built the motor previously did not line up the cam sprocket and dowel on the cam shaft causing damage to the cam sprocket.

So armed with that information from one of the top Subaru engine builders in the country I went back to the Subaru dealer and explained the situation. At first they were hesitant to do the work under warranty and then I explained how I went to EFI and got the right diagnosis to my problem. They finally agreed and today they pulled the cam sprocket and it was damaged just like we thought. Rob explained that if you don't line up the dowel exactly right when you go to tighten it down it will enlarge the hole causing it to ovalize. The entire job will be done under warranty. I'll post pics tonight.
[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by WRXsubbie; 03-11-2014 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:58 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXsubbie View Post
Update! Drove the car approximately 100 miles and you guessed it the CEL P0018 came back on. I took the car to my friends at EFI and spoke with Rob and he said exactly what you guys are saying...mods and ECU being flashed will not make the timing belt jump! His conclusion was that whoever built the motor previously did not line up the cam sprocket and dowel on the cam shaft causing damage to the cam sprocket.

So armed with that information from one of the top Subaru engine builders in the country I went back to the Subaru dealer and explained the situation. At first they were hesitant to do the work under warranty and then I explained how I went to EFI and got the right diagnosis to my problem. They finally agreed and today they pulled the cam sprocket and it was damaged just like we thought. Rob explained that if you don't line up the dowel exactly right when you go to tighten it down it will enlarge the hole causing it to ovalize. The entire job will be done under warranty. I'll post pics tonight.
[/IMG]
Good man! Glad to hear they fixed it for ya under warranty. Once again gotta bend the arm of the stealership to do their job.
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:06 PM   #25
Mr Wrex
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Oh my... who put the sprocket back on without lining it up first?
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