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Old 03-26-2014, 06:32 PM   #2151
shark_22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
looks like i'm fast becoming the falcon throttle body dealer for nasioc


still chasing an AC mounting bracket though, hint hint


Lill update for the ez

had water in 3 cylinder all the winter
have to bore the cylinder+ new piston!








and one picture of the TB from Vicious_fishes!(Dont have find the bracket yet)!

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Old 03-26-2014, 08:14 PM   #2152
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did you clean the blade off shark? was pretty dirty. good blast with degreaser should fix it
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:17 AM   #2153
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oh gee look what arrived today...





Last edited by vicious_fishes; 03-28-2014 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 03-28-2014, 09:44 AM   #2154
Patrick Olsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shark_22 View Post
yeah I know, its like the oem mount on my eg33, and I put sti mount with no problem(but dont know if the eg33 vs ez30 are the same)
Just want to know if somebody have done this with the ez30
The 2 bolt holes on the EJ25 mount line up perfectly with the two "inner" bolt holes on the EZ30 mount. However, the EJ25 mount has about a 20deg twist to one end of the engine mount, while the EZ30 mount locations are all in the same plane.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Can you elaborate a bit on canbus to canbus swaps? Most canbuses are already immobilized, I would say.
So, is it a regular plug and play, or are there modules that the other canbus may not recognize, such as .. maybe ABS?

And you'd swap ECU, immobilizer, have keys, body control module and cluster?

Is there a possibility that if your swap list of items is incomplete, once the canbus network does a self check, the ignition locks and then even if you complete the "swap inventory", it doesn't start without a dealer reset?
The extent of my knowledge is that CAN bus is different than non-CAN bus, thus mixing them or converting from one to the other is more complicated. My apologies if I gave the impression that I knew what I was talking about beyond that.
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:35 AM   #2155
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Thanks, I appreciate your answer.
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:51 AM   #2156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
Very nice.

Looks like you snagged a Liberty 6MT according to Rallispec's handy chart, did you get the R180 rear end as well?
Quote:
TY856WWDAD
Legacy Spec B MY07 (2007 Prod. Year)
1st: 3.636
2nd: 2.235
3rd: 1.521
4th: 1.137
5th: 0.891
6th: 0.707
Rev: 3.545
T.R.: 1.100
F.D.: 3.900
Center Diff. Type: Viscous (4kgf)
Front Diff. Type: Open
Rear Diff. Type: R180 - Torsen
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:35 PM   #2157
vicious_fishes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedMonkey999 View Post
Very nice.

Looks like you snagged a Liberty 6MT according to Rallispec's handy chart, did you get the R180 rear end as well?
nah just the gearbox. but i got it seriously cheap, 2500 with the crossmember, mount, starter, clutch, slave cylinder and clutch fork.

i'll just get a 3.54 r160, can pick them up 2nd hand for 200 bucks. also trying to find a decent front diff from a wasted 6 speed like a torsen or suretrac or something. had my eye on one in the for sale section but it's since sold. there's also a driveshaft to worry about - i'd like an alloy/CF one if i can get it for a decent price.

any luck on the AC bracket?
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:47 PM   #2158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
nah just the gearbox. but i got it seriously cheap, 2500 with the crossmember, mount, starter, clutch, slave cylinder and clutch fork.

i'll just get a 3.54 r160, can pick them up 2nd hand for 200 bucks. also trying to find a decent front diff from a wasted 6 speed like a torsen or suretrac or something. had my eye on one in the for sale section but it's since sold. there's also a driveshaft to worry about - i'd like an alloy/CF one if i can get it for a decent price.

any luck on the AC bracket?
$2500 AUD? That's a damn good price!

You can use the driveshaft from any auto Impreza, should be able to pick one up for $50 or so (although I dunno what the market is like in aussieland).

I called a shop that doesn't use the AC brackets when they swap the EZ30s into vanagons, but they won't be getting back to me until Monday. There's a local junkyard that has several EZ30 alternators for $15, I'm hoping they'll let the AC brackets go for a good price. They're closed now, but I'll give them a call in the morning.
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:50 PM   #2159
vicious_fishes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedMonkey999 View Post
$2500 AUD? That's a damn good price!

You can use the driveshaft from any auto Impreza, should be able to pick one up for $50 or so (although I dunno what the market is like in aussieland).

I called a shop that doesn't use the AC brackets when they swap the EZ30s into vanagons, but they won't be getting back to me until Monday. There's a local junkyard that has several EZ30 alternators for $15, I'm hoping they'll let the AC brackets go for a good price. They're closed now, but I'll give them a call in the morning.
yeah man i was pretty stoked with it. nobody wants it because it has the open front diff... perfect for me, i wanted the longest gears! now i just need to either work out a way of splicing the wires or whatever from the speedo senders (4 wires from this gearbox, factory harness on my car is 3) or order the one that splices into the ABS sensor from dccdpro or whoever it is that makes them.

and yeah, i can get an auto shaft for 100 bucks. but i figure i might as well get an alloy one whilst everything's off the car anyways/save some cash. we'll see if i can get one for a decent price.

that's great about the AC bracket

Last edited by vicious_fishes; 03-28-2014 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:14 PM   #2160
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in other news, my 5MT is whining at speed. it only does it at speed, it does it no matter which gear i'm in (4th or 5th), clutch in or out, whether it's in gear or not and doesn't change with throttle position or RPM. it's totally rolling speed of the car dependent. however, if it's in gear and i engine brake... it goes away.

any ideas? i'm assuming a bearing but i have NFI which one.
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Old 04-03-2014, 01:47 AM   #2161
jdogma
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Too bad! Keep us posted. Our 5 speed (2008 WRX) is ok so far - fingers crossed -
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:45 PM   #2162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphinwolf View Post
He'a talking tandem ECU like the guy from Canada. Frankly for the same or less work the standalone in place of the SVX ECU would yield more
i assume, i'm the guy from canada you're talking about lol.

for what its worth, it took me 2 hours to trim the svx harness down, 45 minutes to splice it and it fired right up.

i think a standalone would take more time.

to the guy who said he did a 2jz swap in a 350z - if you can do that, then you can swap in an eg33, it took about 15 hours spread over a couple week from start to finish. i also had to deal with a returnless fuel system.
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:51 PM   #2163
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i spliced the back up power supply, and the ignition on power supply. but after i was done, and thinking about it, i realized that i didnt actually have to splice anything.

if you can run a relay, and know basic wiring, you dont have to splice anything. plug it into the engine, run your relays and fuses, turn key and start

the 06 2.5i ecu could also be removed. it doesnt run anything other then the engine.

i assume an 05 legacy would be similar, but i cant say forsure
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:41 AM   #2164
Patrick Olsen
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So, after a few weeks of doing a whole lot of nothing, and most of this weekend wasted doing more nothing, I got off my ass and accomplished a little bit Sunday evening.

I had previously labelled the engine harness to get it ready for install. This is actually not the harness that came with the engine; that one had a couple of sensors chopped off prior to my getting the engine, so I sourced a "new" harness from a 2004 car. My engine came from a 2001, and it turned out the part numbers on the harnesses were different. After thoroughly comparing them, it turned out the only difference (that I could find, at least) was the oil pressure sending unit uses a separate pigtail about 8" long rather than just plugging into the harness directly. Not sure why they would make that change? When I first found the different connector on the harness, I assumed that the sending unit itself was different, and that there would be a pigtail attached to the sending unit. Nope. I called Jackie @ Annapolis Subaru and she looked it up - the sending unit is exactly the same (same one used on all the engines), but for some reason the H6 has this extra pigtail. The EJ25s from the same year don't use that pigtail, but use the same sending unit. Strange.



I unbolted the coolant crossover and slipped the harness in underneath it. Fortunately I didn't have to disconnect any of the hoses - not that there's any coolant in the system yet, it just would've been more things to fiddle with and forget to tighten after the fact.





The passenger side has a bracket that bolts onto the valve cover to route the harness. Not sure why the driver side doesn't have the same thing, but both the 2001 and 2004 harnesses were the same in that respect.

With the harness installed on the top of the block, I took a last look at things to make sure I wasn't forgetting anything, then went ahead and installed the intake manifold. I haven't actually torqued it in place yet, but it's there and bolted down.



Next up is to turn this stuff:

... into an intake tract. Not shown are a 3" adapter that bolts to the stock filter box in place of the MAF, and a 30deg silicone bend that will come off the throttle body. The parts in the picture I was able to source from Virginia Speed here locally, but I had to order the 30deg bend online; it came in Saturday. So, 30deg bend coming off the throttle body to get the intake back to horizontal, then the 2 90deg bends to do a 180 (an actual 180 would've been too tight, so this lets me put a short straight in between the 90s), then the 45 to mate up to the MAF adapter on the filter box. Should be pretty simple, just need to measure twice (or thrice) then cut once so I don't screw it up.

Once I get things lined up, I need to take the 90 closest to the TB to the machine shop so they can weld a nipple on (for the breather hose off the driver side valve cover), and I need to figure out where to put the IAT. The stock EZ30 setup has the IAT in a grommet on the filter box (which is right on the throttle body, rather than on the inner fender like my car). I don't have that filter box, so obviously that won't work.
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:49 PM   #2165
jdogma
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removed

Last edited by jdogma; 04-07-2014 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:22 AM   #2166
vicious_fishes
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random question: when i stood the 6 speed up on its end for something, a little fluid leaked out the REAR of it (where the driveshaft mates up). i noticed there is a little seal there.

is that normal when the driveshaft is out or is a seal gone?
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:29 AM   #2167
RedMonkey999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
random question: when i stood the 6 speed up on its end for something, a little fluid leaked out the REAR of it (where the driveshaft mates up). i noticed there is a little seal there.

is that normal when the driveshaft is out or is a seal gone?
Yup, the seal sits flush against the driveshaft, so when the shaft is out, fluid can leak out freely.
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:25 PM   #2168
vicious_fishes
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Originally Posted by RedMonkey999 View Post
Yup, the seal sits flush against the driveshaft, so when the shaft is out, fluid can leak out freely.
sweet. i wanted to swap to an R180 rear end, full 5x114.3 swap etc etc... but it's all money. a LOT more money than a simple r160 and axle stub swap in. only like 450 bucks for an R160 and axle stubs with an auto driveshaft. more like (net) 1500-2k for an r180/114.3 conversion. which i was going to spend on my TT setup.

sigh.
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Old 04-09-2014, 01:12 AM   #2169
Patrick Olsen
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Made some progress on the cutting and pasting job for the intake tract, but had to stop to head off to my Tuesday night indoor soccer game.

Got the 30deg silicone piece trimmed, and had already shortened one leg of one of the 90deg bends and the 45 deg bend:



Here you can see the kind of oddly angled throttle body, with the 30deg bend getting things back to (almost) level:



The remaining 90deg bend in place so I could mark off where to cut everything:



And almost done, just need to make the two cuts on the other 90deg bend. I bought a 1ft length of 3" silicone, but it turns out I don't need it - the chunks I cut off the two legs of the 30deg bend are nicely sized to serve as the two couplers.



Should be able to wrap that up tomorrow. For now I'm just giving the bare aluminum pieces a brushed finish with some 0000 steel wool. It actually looks pretty good that way, but I'll have to decide if I want to paint it the same color as the intake manifold. I probably will paint it, just to keep to the "theme" or whatever.
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Old 04-12-2014, 05:14 PM   #2170
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i've been harassing killer B about making us sumps/baffles/pickups (or all 3). anyone else down for one/two/all of those things?

if we get enough of us interested then hopefully he'll start making them
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:55 AM   #2171
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Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
i've been harassing killer B about making us sumps/baffles/pickups (or all 3). anyone else down for one/two/all of those things?

if we get enough of us interested then hopefully he'll start making them
If just one, my immediate thought would be at least a baffle -- though I'm running an ez36 (once I get it running). Maybe a singular baffle design could work for both the ez30 and ez36..?
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:18 AM   #2172
vicious_fishes
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Originally Posted by LucasBlack View Post
If just one, my immediate thought would be at least a baffle -- though I'm running an ez36 (once I get it running). Maybe a singular baffle design could work for both the ez30 and ez36..?
as far as i'm aware the sumps/oil pans/etc are all exactly the same
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:01 PM   #2173
Patrick Olsen
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I think getting an entire sump made is unlikely, as the upper oil pan is a structural component on these engines, not to mention the water pump, coolant passages, oil passages to feed the timing chains, etc etc.

Maybe a replacement lower oil pan with a trap-door'd sump built into it, with a pick-up to match? The pick-up sits right above the magnet at the rear of the pan, so there's not a whole lot of room for a trap-door'd sump:

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Old 04-14-2014, 07:09 PM   #2174
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that's exactly what i was talking about pat
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Old 04-15-2014, 07:41 PM   #2175
shark_22
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some update:
the shortblock and heads are back from machine shop!
I reassemble the block today with all new bearing,piston!

old bearing


new bearing mount on the crank


after cleaning it, we can see boring/honing job


piston in





I decided to paint the timing chain and valve cover in wrinkle black


Custom mount!( waiting seraphinwolf update about solid mount!)

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