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Old 04-24-2014, 09:50 PM   #51
brandon.nowicki
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Turns out that line was indeed switched around. I essentially had a vacuum leak in the gas tank. The fuel purge valve hoses next to the alternator were incorrectly installed. Then once I fixed it, one of the hoses blew off. Best of luck.
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Old 04-26-2014, 06:55 PM   #52
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Little update, switched the hoses around on the solenoid and the stalling after filling up seems to have been fixed, Thanks guys!
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:24 PM   #53
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I did this and I still have fuel filling problems and a check engine light.
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:33 PM   #54
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It sounds like something else is wrong with the car, assuming the EVAP purge was hooked up like the JDM cars have it, with just 2 hoses.
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:00 PM   #55
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yup exactly like the pic, top hose going to the back and bottom going to the vertical nipple. capped everything else.
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:07 PM   #56
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although it should not make a difference, you could try swapping the hose positions on the EVAP solenoid.

Stephen
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:15 PM   #57
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Ok, I can try that. Is it necessary to unhook the battery and reset the car?
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:27 PM   #58
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Reseting the ECU should reset the Check Engine LIght, but will not correct the inability to fill the car with gas.
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:02 PM   #59
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right, ill report back after i switch hoses
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:32 PM   #60
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Can a 2.5 Sti evap solenoid work on a 03 2.0 wrx?
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:14 AM   #61
Jaydogg717
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Switched the hoses and still a code and still filling problems. Could deleting the whole system from front to back help? How do you permanently delete codes? Do you have to have a access port?
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:54 AM   #62
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Jaydogg717 - I'd suggest taking the car to someone to diagnose and properly fix versus removing required emission parts. For race car applications, the system can be deleted and then the codes will need to be removed through tuning (open source or accessport). We do not recommend deleting the EVAP setup on a street car for many reasons, 2 of which are: smell and incrased SMOG emissions

Stephen
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:57 AM   #63
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gotcha...thanks for all your help!
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:14 AM   #64
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OMGHi2U

Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
Jaydogg717 - I'd suggest taking the car to someone to diagnose and properly fix versus removing required emission parts. For race car applications, the system can be deleted and then the codes will need to be removed through tuning (open source or accessport). We do not recommend deleting the EVAP setup on a street car for many reasons, 2 of which are: smell and incrased SMOG emissions

Stephen
Hey Stephen,
I appreciate your contributions to this forum, one of the hoses coming off the blue T cracked and the plastic connector did as well... so of course I'm throwing a CEL and have a slight leak. I'd like to delete as much of these hoses / connections as possible to eliminate issues.

One concern I have is that while you state you don't recommend this mod for street cars, you seem to indicate otherwise in this thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3&postcount=12

Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
Here is another option, it is free and avoids the hassle of the hoses coming off in the future. This is how the JDM ver7/8 STi cars are setup. We have lots of customer cars running this configuration without any CELs or negative side affects.

Could you please clarify?
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:22 AM   #65
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He does not recommend deleting the evap system entirely on the street for several reasons.

He does recommend changing to the JDM style on the street. (Removing the purge valve, leaving the purge solenoid in place)
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:55 AM   #66
gts24
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Quote:
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ThePunishedGT - the intention with the new thread was to get one that has the facts of why and what the EVAP system is. I do not have the exact sizes available, but this info should help:

(1) intake manifold nipple cap 1/16" ID
(1) turbo inlet nipple cap 3/16" ID
(1) jumper hose 1/8-3/16" ID (roughly 7-8" long (usually sold by the foot)

Stephen
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePunisherGT View Post
That is PERFECTLY what I was looking for. Thanks so much!!

Does the jumper hose have two different sized ends? Is that the different numbers?

-Punisher

Where are you guys picking up "nipple caps" ? Care to share a specific part # or even a URL to a part please?
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:07 PM   #67
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gts24 - shiftface420 is correct, we would like to see the EVAP system in place versus complete deletion. Now, the JDM system does keep the system in place, but decreases the amount hoses under the hood. Perfect for owners that wish to delete the blue T and a few other small connectors (evap purge diaphram and several tiny vacuum hoses). The EVAP purge solenoid will need to be used for either the US or JDM version to properly work.

Various automotive resellers offer "automotive Vacuum line caps" If you search "automotive vacuum nipple caps" then a bunch of baby bottle results come back :-/
I know this water line cap fits the smaller nipples on the turbo inlet perfectly Subaru Factory Parts:Motors and Motor Parts:Water Parts:21170AA010, plus it will last forever unlike cheap rubber caps that need replacing every 1-2 years due to dry rot.

Stephen

Last edited by IA Performance; 07-01-2014 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:56 AM   #68
Shiftace420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
gts24 - ****face420 is correct, we would like to see the EVAP system in place versus complete deletion. Now, the JDM system does keep the system in place, but decreases the amount hoses under the hood. Perfect for owners that wish to delete the blue T and a few other small connectors (evap purge diaphram and several tiny vacuum hoses). The EVAP purge solenoid will need to be used for either the US or JDM version to properly work.

Various automotive resellers offer "automotive Vacuum line caps" If you search "automotive vacuum nipple caps" then a bunch of baby bottle results come back :-/
I know this water line cap fits the smaller nipples on the turbo inlet perfectly Subaru Factory Parts:Motors and Motor Parts:Water Parts:21170AA010, plus it will last forever unlike cheap rubber caps that need replacing every 1-2 years due to dry rot.

Stephen
Outstanding info about the rubber caps! +11 Great write up!

Just a little tip for some with oem inlet: I cut off the hose barb with a hack saw blade on the inlet tube flush. Then with a bit of permatex at the base of a push pin, Insert the pin so its flush.

Also, If you take the hose barb out of the intake manifold and use a regular screw in plug it cleans up the engine bay a bit more. I just never liked empty/plugged hose barbs on things.

Last edited by Shiftace420; 07-01-2014 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:39 AM   #69
gts24
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Here's pics of the setup I did. I just went to Napa and bought an assortment of vacuum caps,
http://i.imgur.com/cAwb4UV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2N9dHkH.jpg < can see the one's i used here

the setup:
http://i.imgur.com/ayIer8l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sl0Vqs8.jpg

I also got a couple sizes of vacuum hose from Napa, they have tons, I asked the guy for 3/16th inch but he failed to give me that very specific one, my brother ended up having some 1/4 inch stuff which is just barely a size bigger so I went with that, if something goes negative this isn't a bad job to replace that hose.

Had a CEL related to this. Reset my ECU and will be driving around tomorrow quite a bit.
not embedding the pics because they are huge and it's late and I don't feel like re-sizing.
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:06 AM   #70
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gts24 - it looks like you have it sorted out. I would add a tiny zip tie on the intake manifold vacuum cap.

Stephen
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:50 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
gts24 - it looks like you have it sorted out. I would add a tiny zip tie on the intake manifold vacuum cap.

Stephen
Welp, was driving to work this morning and sure enough, the vacuum cap blew off the intake manifold port......

Luckily I was close to Napa and they sold me a smaller cap, put it on there and double zip tied it.......

Lesson learned.
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Old 10-21-2014, 03:53 PM   #72
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just asked ia performance about this that may be a good idea to add the the faq:

to specify i have an 04 sti which has the same evap system down to the t connectors as the ej205. not sure if the tuning tables mentioned in the last paragraph of this post are available for wrx's but i assume they are there to compensate for fuel vapor being ingested into the intake.

"""hey saw your comments in this thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1828861

do you know exactly how the purge valve works? i'm assuming it's using vacuum signal from the small nipple on the manifold to close off the connection from the turbo inlet to the manifold, and that it only flows air from the inlet to the purge solenoid, and only while under vacuum. ie no air actually flows through the straight tiny nipple on the manifold that faces directly forward, its strictly used to trip the solenoid?

so when the purge solenoid opens under vacuum it seems like the purge valve supplements the gas vapors with extra oxygen from the (already maf-metered) air inside the the turbo inlet.

if this is correct then hooking up the solenoid as you guys recommend (jdm evap system style) would give slightly richer air possibly requiring the modifier for this to be adjusted? (labeled in access-tuner race as "evap-related fuel adder compensation" under fuel tables-> miscellaneous)"""
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Old 10-21-2014, 04:34 PM   #73
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wrxkyle - Althought this thread is offered as a central meeting spot for those with fundamental EVAP questions/issues, I will try my best to answer the more indepth question (keeping in mind that I'm not an EVAP expert, I gather info where I can find it).

Pressure Switch = pretty sure this is no
From reverse engineering, it would appear the gas vapors travel from the charcoal canister to the intake manifold, up to the EVAP purge solenoid, and when under vacuum state the vapors travel through the manifold through the vacuum port that points downwards (directly behind the alternator). I do not believe there is a pressure sensor in the circuit, just the solenoid.

Tiny straight vacuum port (found on US cars)
I'm not entirely certain what the purpose is of the additional hoses, blue T, and round EVAP purge are for. Given the more strict emission lays in North America, I would guess this part of the EVAP system is a bit of redundancy, left in place to remove additional vapors from the charcoal canister. I'd guess the EVAP purge allows air to pass through it under vacuum.

Evap-Related Fuel Adder Compensation
The Evap-Related Fuel Adder Compensation function is found in all USDM 2.0L ECUs (2002-2005 wrx) in COBB Accesstuner and Protuner:

Fuel Tables / Miscellaneous / Evap-Related Fuel Adder Compensation

Cobb's Description
"This is the compensation to the evap-related fuel adder. This table's multiplier is applied to the evap fuel adder which is then applied to commanded fueling final. A value of 1.00 in this table retains the factory evap fuel correction. A value of 0 in this table eliminates the correction entirely."

I'm checking with the Cobb expert group to see if they have input on tuning this table and will reply back when an answer is received. I do know from prior 1st hand experience, the car has no dramatic negative driving quirks when converted over to the JDM version 7/8 layout.
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Old 10-22-2014, 02:53 PM   #74
wrxkyle
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Thanks for the reply, I wouldn't expect it to Make a big difference driving but if you were tuning with the system removed it might throw off / your scaling if you're logging at highway cruise speeds, at least that's what I would assume.


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Last edited by wrxkyle; 10-22-2014 at 07:18 PM.
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