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Old 04-22-2014, 11:42 PM   #1
sebhockey
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Default 2015 Amplifier install info/power routing

Since there isn't a thread for this yet...I started my 4 channel amplifier install today.

So far I have only run my power cable, and plan to finish my install by the end of the week. Not a lot done, but took my time to make the install clean and figure out how parts came apart. Like the previous generation the power cable can be run through the driver's side fender well which is what I chose to do since I plan to locate my amp under the driver's seat. I used a 4 awg cable which I ran through the extra space in the driver's side floor cable way and ran the cable under the carpet to make it under the seat. I will use a distribution block to transfer power to the amp and eventually if I choose to add one a trunk subwoofer. As far as mounting the amp, I am going to use industrial strength Velcro. For those worried about using Velcro, this is the same stuff we use on our boats to secure stuff for sea that held large objects even in the roughest 15'+ seas with 20+ degree pitching and rolling. Simply put it's not going anywhere in a car.

Tips for getting the inner plastic fender out, there are 3 screw type clips near the bottom rear and another under the side sill spoiler. You will need to remove at least 2 of the other clips to get enough clearance to the gasket.

Definitely recommend using some type of lubricant on the cable to get through the grommet, I opted to used soap.


Update:

Ended up upgrading my original carry over amp finally to a JL Audio XD700/5v2. Fitment under the seat is a lot better, in fact this series of amps are pretty much the ideal size for under the seat even with cables at just over 7" wide. My previous amp didn't sit exactly under the seat and sat on top of the air ducts at 9" wide, but it did fit.

For a general rule of thumb for those looking to add an amp under the seat, anything under 7.5" wide should fit, 7.5"-8.5" will fit if the connections are on the sides. Anything over 8.5" expect to have to not have a flat fitment unless you get creative. Length and height really weren't a problem, a 18" long amp should fit. I didn't do high measurements under the seat rails, but you should have up to 4".

For those interested in removing the driver's side power adjustable seat in a Limited, it's the same as the the regular seats. I ended up removing the seat this time to dress the cables better as my anal-retentiveness with electronics got the better of me. It was fairly simple, remove the two rear bolt covers, undo 4 bolts, and lean seat back being careful not to put any tension on wires.
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Last edited by sebhockey; 06-09-2014 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:56 PM   #2
BuckiWRX
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What make/model is your amp if you don't mind sharing? How difficult was it to remove the power seat? I have a Hertz HDP4 and wasn't sure if the power seat would have enough clearance
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:10 AM   #3
sebhockey
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My amp is an Alpine MRP-F250. It's kinda old, but it works well. I chose to reuse it from my 07 since it's still good and to save money, I'll upgrade later if I need to. If I do upgrade later I will make sure it clears too prior to purchase.

I didn't remove the seat actually and don't intend to. I test fitted the amp prior to the install to be sure it would work without interfering with the power seat. I will leave a small service loop in all my cables to be able to move the amp from under the seat to install everything and make adjustments.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:43 AM   #4
stevesnow
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Hey I posted this in another thread but I still need answers to some of the questions...

I have a few questions here are my plans... Hooking up to the Stock 2015 WRX HU... forgive me if some are basic, this is my first full system... just replaced speakers and added a sub before.

Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Car Audio Component System (Pair) (For 2 Front Speakers and 2 Tweeters)
110watts RMS

Alpine SPR-60 6-1/2" Coaxial 2-Way Type-R Speaker Set (For 2 Rear Speakers)
100watt RMS

Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt (Powered) Loaded 10-Inch
Subwoofer Enclosure (For Trunk)

Alpine MRX-F65 4-channel Car Amplifier
110watts RMS x4

Here are my questions:
- (General Car Audio Question) Is running a system like this bad for the car? Battery and Alternator - Would they likely have less of a lifespan? Are there any other parts affected that would possibly fail sooner if I didn't have a system? Should I get a capacitor for the Sub & Amp?

- Will the speakers fit? They are 6 3/4 inches but they say they'll fit in a 6.5 inch space...? does anyone know the mounting depth and such...?

- Is there a Harness out there so I don't have to F*** up the factory harness if I want to go back to it? (I think I need to cut the speaker wires to run them to the amp if not...? correct?)

- For people who don't have the H/K system are the rear speakers on the deck? or are they in the rear doors??

- Do I absolutely need to run new wire to the speakers? Or is the stock wiring thick enough? What will happen if I am lazy and don't? Should I run 16 or 14 gauge for this system?

- (noob question) will the components in the front be less powerful because there are 2 speakers and 2 tweeters running off two channels? vs just 2 speakers?


What else is needed other than the speakers, sub and amp?
- Spacers for speakers, where to get? (Cheapest that are good)
- 16 Gauge Wire for new speakers (What type of connectors?) (What type of wire can I get that will turn a Left and Right Front to 2 left and right fronts for the components???)
- Plastic Pull Panel Remover Thing
- Amp wiring kit and Sub wiring Kit
- Crossovers for the back 2 Speakers (Non-Component) (Are these Needed??)
- Amp has speaker level input so I don't need 2 Channel Line out converters correct? Just run the wires from the HU to the AMP?
- Harness so I don't have to F*** up the factory harness if I want to go back to it?


What is the best way to hook all this up?
Speaker Install:
1) Install Amp under passenger seat and connect battery, ground and remote.
2) Install the speakers and components using spacers and run new wiring (16 gauge) from them to the amp (speaker output) under the passenger seat.
3) Run the speaker wires from the head unit to the speaker level input on the amp.
Possible Problems:
- Running new wires to the doors will be hell most likely? Suggestions?
- Running battery wire to battery to firewall will be fun

Subwoofer Install:
1) Put it in the trunk and connect the ground wire. Run the battery wire to the battery. Connect the remote wire as well.
2) Where should I hook the sub woofer speaker wires to? Since it is already amped I don't want to connect to the rear speaker wire as that will be amped already. Should I connect to the rear speaker wire coming out of the head unit? What do people normally do?

- (another noob question) will pulling the audio signal from the rear speaker wire before it gets to the amp degrade any parts of the sound? sub or speakers??

THANKS ALOT... I AM SURE THIS WILL HELP OTHERS WITH QUESTIONS AS WELL!
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:58 PM   #5
sebhockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevesnow View Post
Hey I posted this in another thread but I still need answers to some of the questions...

I have a few questions here are my plans... Hooking up to the Stock 2015 WRX HU... forgive me if some are basic, this is my first full system... just replaced speakers and added a sub before.

Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Car Audio Component System (Pair) (For 2 Front Speakers and 2 Tweeters)
110watts RMS

Alpine SPR-60 6-1/2" Coaxial 2-Way Type-R Speaker Set (For 2 Rear Speakers)
100watt RMS

Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt (Powered) Loaded 10-Inch
Subwoofer Enclosure (For Trunk)

Alpine MRX-F65 4-channel Car Amplifier
110watts RMS x4

Here are my questions:
- (General Car Audio Question) Is running a system like this bad for the car? Battery and Alternator - Would they likely have less of a lifespan? Are there any other parts affected that would possibly fail sooner if I didn't have a system? Should I get a capacitor for the Sub & Amp?

- Will the speakers fit? They are 6 3/4 inches but they say they'll fit in a 6.5 inch space...? does anyone know the mounting depth and such...?

- Is there a Harness out there so I don't have to F*** up the factory harness if I want to go back to it? (I think I need to cut the speaker wires to run them to the amp if not...? correct?)

- For people who don't have the H/K system are the rear speakers on the deck? or are they in the rear doors??

- Do I absolutely need to run new wire to the speakers? Or is the stock wiring thick enough? What will happen if I am lazy and don't? Should I run 16 or 14 gauge for this system?

- (noob question) will the components in the front be less powerful because there are 2 speakers and 2 tweeters running off two channels? vs just 2 speakers?


What else is needed other than the speakers, sub and amp?
- Spacers for speakers, where to get? (Cheapest that are good)
- 16 Gauge Wire for new speakers (What type of connectors?) (What type of wire can I get that will turn a Left and Right Front to 2 left and right fronts for the components???)
- Plastic Pull Panel Remover Thing
- Amp wiring kit and Sub wiring Kit
- Crossovers for the back 2 Speakers (Non-Component) (Are these Needed??)
- Amp has speaker level input so I don't need 2 Channel Line out converters correct? Just run the wires from the HU to the AMP?
- Harness so I don't have to F*** up the factory harness if I want to go back to it?


What is the best way to hook all this up?
Speaker Install:
1) Install Amp under passenger seat and connect battery, ground and remote.
2) Install the speakers and components using spacers and run new wiring (16 gauge) from them to the amp (speaker output) under the passenger seat.
3) Run the speaker wires from the head unit to the speaker level input on the amp.
Possible Problems:
- Running new wires to the doors will be hell most likely? Suggestions?
- Running battery wire to battery to firewall will be fun

Subwoofer Install:
1) Put it in the trunk and connect the ground wire. Run the battery wire to the battery. Connect the remote wire as well.
2) Where should I hook the sub woofer speaker wires to? Since it is already amped I don't want to connect to the rear speaker wire as that will be amped already. Should I connect to the rear speaker wire coming out of the head unit? What do people normally do?

- (another noob question) will pulling the audio signal from the rear speaker wire before it gets to the amp degrade any parts of the sound? sub or speakers??

THANKS ALOT... I AM SURE THIS WILL HELP OTHERS WITH QUESTIONS AS WELL!
Well to start with, you are going to need to add a digital signal processor (DSP) to handle the high level inputs into the amp. You can try connecting to your amp directly, but you may only get a louder system that may not even sound as good as stock with lots of clipping and shorten the life of the amp if it doesn't fry as soon as you connect it. The DSP will also allow you to adjust equalizer settings and can handle the high level inputs.

Your electrical system will be fine with this kind of setup and there is no need for a capacitor. Unless you're adding a lot of other electrical items you won't draw enough power at once to notice the increased load.

At 6.75" I can't say for sure, but they should if they fit the adapters and depth wise you should be good.

Yes, there are harnesses available to connect between the stock harness and stereo, check out ae64.com.

Rear speakers are in the doors.

You don't have to run new speaker wire for each, but if you are running high power it helps. You will need to route some speaker wire if you install components.

There should be no noticeable difference in power between components and coaxial speakers. It's mostly dependent on the quality of the crossovers and speakers themselves.


Most of your parts can be bought online at any car audio source, I won't recommend any over another. You can google spacers that work and I even posted info on that in my speaker thread as well as a local on here that makes them.

I'm not going to answer the rest of your questions mostly because I'm not going to look up the specs of all of your equipment to tell you the best way to go about install and where to locate everything. You may not want to hear this, but with the amount of questions you have you may want to consider getting help installing or get it installed professionally.
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Old 04-25-2014, 07:01 PM   #6
inertius
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I installed my amp the same way. Velcro works very well to hold it. You just need to put the hooks on the amp, and it'll stick to the carpet. I used this thread from way back as a guide:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...07&postcount=6

I'm using a JL Audio XD 700/5 amp, which fits easily under the driver's seat. It's about the size of a college textbook.
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:38 AM   #7
sebhockey
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Updated first post with new amplifier info for anyone interested.

At this point I have completed my entire audio install, save for the final mounting of my sub, which I'm waiting on a couple brackets to come in.

Full details of my entire install:

Head unit: Pioneer AVH-8500BHS
Satellite tuner: SXV200 SiriusXM
Phone interface: AllShare Cast Wireless Hub
Head unit wiring harness adapter: Metra 70-7552 with added leads for SWC
Steering wheel controls adapter: Metra Axxess ASWC-1
USB adapter: Metra AX-TOYUSB
AUX harness adpater: from SVXdc
AMP: JL Audio XD700/5v2 (5 channel)
Front Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Power T-165S
Rear Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Power T-152
Subwoofer: JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 microsub
Amp install kit: Rockford Fosgate RFK4D dual amp install kit
Speaker adapters: from www.car-speaker-adapters.com speaker adapters for xv crosstrek/impreza
Speaker harness adpaters: 2x Metra 71-035LC
Various lengths of electrical tape, 16awg speaker wire, wiring loom, zip ties.

I currently have my sub temporarily mounted to the back seat using ratchet straps, which is very very temporary while waiting on a set of D ring anchors which i plan to use to be able to have a quick removal setup.
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:24 AM   #8
ahnoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebhockey View Post
Updated first post with new amplifier info for anyone interested.

At this point I have completed my entire audio install, save for the final mounting of my sub, which I'm waiting on a couple brackets to come in.

Full details of my entire install:

Head unit: Pioneer AVH-8500BHS
Satellite tuner: SXV200 SiriusXM
Phone interface: AllShare Cast Wireless Hub
Head unit wiring harness adapter: Metra 70-7552 with added leads for SWC
Steering wheel controls adapter: Metra Axxess ASWC-1
USB adapter: Metra AX-TOYUSB
AUX harness adpater: from SVXdc
AMP: JL Audio XD700/5v2 (5 channel)
Front Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Power T-165S
Rear Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Power T-152
Subwoofer: JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 microsub
Amp install kit: Rockford Fosgate RFK4D dual amp install kit
Speaker adapters: from www.car-speaker-adapters.com speaker adapters for xv crosstrek/impreza
Speaker harness adpaters: 2x Metra 71-035LC
Various lengths of electrical tape, 16awg speaker wire, wiring loom, zip ties.

I currently have my sub temporarily mounted to the back seat using ratchet straps, which is very very temporary while waiting on a set of D ring anchors which i plan to use to be able to have a quick removal setup.
Installing the Pioneer X5600BHS this week when it arrives from Crutchfield along with the Axxess ASWC.

Quick questions:

1) Crutchfield is sending the following Scosche dash kit, but I've heard mixed reviews as to the fit. Which one did you use? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SU20...t.html?tp=3121

2) Which added leads for the Metra wiring harness are you referring to, and how did you add them? Any chance of a picture? This is going to be my first self-install and this is the only thing that's confusing me.

This post mentions splicing into the factory harness, which I'd like to avoid as I'll want to pull everything out when I sell the car eventually:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...55&postcount=3

Looks like I can figure out the wires themselves based on that post, but I'm wondering how you added them to the Metra aftermarket harness without cutting wires in the factory harness if at all possible.
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:42 AM   #9
sebhockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahnoff View Post
Installing the Pioneer X5600BHS this week when it arrives from Crutchfield along with the Axxess ASWC.

Quick questions:

1) Crutchfield is sending the following Scosche dash kit, but I've heard mixed reviews as to the fit. Which one did you use? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SU20...t.html?tp=3121

2) Which added leads for the Metra wiring harness are you referring to, and how did you add them? Any chance of a picture? This is going to be my first self-install and this is the only thing that's confusing me.

This post mentions splicing into the factory harness, which I'd like to avoid as I'll want to pull everything out when I sell the car eventually:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...55&postcount=3

Looks like I can figure out the wires themselves based on that post, but I'm wondering how you added them to the Metra aftermarket harness without cutting wires in the factory harness if at all possible.
I used the same dash kit, but I trimmed away the plastic brackets in favor of reusing the metal. I also had to trim the back of the front face to fit properly with the head unit, otherwise it would have been inset too far.

I added pins to the Metra harness for use with steering wheel controls as the Metra harness lacks them. If this confuses you I suggest just buying your harness from SVXdc instead of going this route, just note that he is busy and may take a while to respond. He is also the only one who has the AUX harness adapters if you want to retain the stock aux port. No need to splice at all, it's just one of the mentioned options to retain steering wheel controls.

Sorry no pics, I don't plan to remove my stereo any time soon.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:03 AM   #10
ahnoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebhockey View Post
I used the same dash kit, but I trimmed away the plastic brackets in favor of reusing the metal. I also had to trim the back of the front face to fit properly with the head unit, otherwise it would have been inset too far.

I added pins to the Metra harness for use with steering wheel controls as the Metra harness lacks them. If this confuses you I suggest just buying your harness from SVXdc instead of going this route, just note that he is busy and may take a while to respond. He is also the only one who has the AUX harness adapters if you want to retain the stock aux port. No need to splice at all, it's just one of the mentioned options to retain steering wheel controls.

Sorry no pics, I don't plan to remove my stereo any time soon.
Thanks for yourself regardless. The first Metra wiring harness that arrived I found I could pull out the wires/pins themselves and with a little bit of plier work could reinsert them myself. I'll order a new harness and use the old one as a "donor" to fill out the missing steering wheel control pins.
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:32 AM   #11
bsmiley314
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Do you have any pics of the amp install. I'm putting the pieces together for an amp install on my 2015 as well. I'm looking at the JL Audio XD700/5v2. I and my son just installed a JL Audio XD1000/5v2 with JL Audio C2-650x rear door speakers, and C2-650 component in front doors/A pillars. I like the sound, with the exception of the tweeters in the A pillar. They're a little harsh for my old ears. I'm planning pretty much the same setup in the WRX, with the exception of using the smaller amp. Size looks good for under the seat.

I'd consider a smaller amp if I could find one that fits in the nook behind the glove box. The JL is a little big for this space. Has anyone mounted an amp here?
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:56 PM   #12
sebhockey
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Sorry no pics of my install. It's pretty well tucked under there where you can't really see anything without removing the seat again. The XD700/5V2 will be good, but you'll need to mount under the seat for space reasons. This is the same amp I used and it works quite well there. I routed all the cables save for power through the center console and under the carpet. If you really want small look at the Rockford Fosgate Power series amps. They have a couple new ones that are very tiny that probably would fit, but you'll be looking at $1000 for one 4 channel and 1 mono.

For harshness you can see if the crossovers have an on/off axis setting, otherwise you will have to manually adjust the equalizer settings to your taste. My head unit gives me multiple equalizer profiles and some of them are quite harsh and I always have to adjust to my taste.
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:56 PM   #13
sebhockey
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Sorry no pics of my install. It's pretty well tucked under there where you can't really see anything without removing the seat again. The XD700/5V2 will be good, but you'll need to mount under the seat for space reasons. This is the same amp I used and it works quite well there. I routed all the cables save for power through the center console and under the carpet. If you really want small look at the Rockford Fosgate Power series amps. They have a couple new ones that are very tiny that probably would fit, but you'll be looking at $1000 for one 4 channel and 1 mono.

For harshness you can see if the crossovers have an on/off axis setting, otherwise you will have to manually adjust the equalizer settings to your taste. My head unit gives me multiple equalizer profiles and some of them are quite harsh and I always have to adjust to my taste.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:42 PM   #14
millertime359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmiley314 View Post
Do you have any pics of the amp install. I'm putting the pieces together for an amp install on my 2015 as well. I'm looking at the JL Audio XD700/5v2. I and my son just installed a JL Audio XD1000/5v2 with JL Audio C2-650x rear door speakers, and C2-650 component in front doors/A pillars. I like the sound, with the exception of the tweeters in the A pillar. They're a little harsh for my old ears. I'm planning pretty much the same setup in the WRX, with the exception of using the smaller amp. Size looks good for under the seat.

I'd consider a smaller amp if I could find one that fits in the nook behind the glove box. The JL is a little big for this space. Has anyone mounted an amp here?
I was going to link you over the the thread that I had the Arc Audio 1100.5 installed under the seat, but it seems you found it.

I was actaully planning to go the route you are looking but have since modified my amp choice over to the Arc Audio 850.5.

Also, do you plan to run a sub in the WRX? If not, a 5 channel is going to be a little overkill. I would recommend you do run one as you are going to have a nice setup to cover your mids and highs.

If your not, there are some smaller amps such as this powerpack:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP4....html?tp=35782

Or this NVX:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NVX-MVPA4.html

Those would be able to tuck up in some small spaces.
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