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Old 07-31-2014, 10:29 PM   #1
lowranger
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03 wrx stg 2.34159
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Default Crossover help. go ninja go ninja go go

First off.... its been 10 years since i have been in the audio world. so dont flame TOO much.
ive got my front stage all setup minus the cross overs.

WOOFER: Dayton Audio RS180-4 7" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm
TWEETER: Vifa XT25SC90-04 1" Dual Ring Radiator Tweeter

now its onto which crossover. I will most likely go passive x-over. but not sure where to go with brands. what would you audiophile gurus recommend?

Deck: Alpine 7998
4-channel: Eclipse EA4100
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:06 AM   #2
El Wray
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Considering the price of parts express speakers, probably not worth the money into dumping a lot into a pair of passives.

I'd take a stab at something from Image Dynamics:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10793-xs...xs-series.aspx

Unfortunately couldn't find any data on crossover point. The ID tweeter in the XS has specs similar to the Vifa, so it should cross nicely. The down side is that you may be lacking a decent portion of that upper/mid-range since the Dayton's only go to 2.2kHz.

Last edited by El Wray; 08-01-2014 at 12:18 AM.
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:41 AM   #3
peekeesh
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why go passive when your deck is capable of going active (2-way and 3-way)? just get a small monoblock and use your existing 4ch amp for your front stage.
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:45 AM   #4
bobditts
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definitely go active with that amp. The price of the speakers has nothing to do with performance. PE.com sells awesome stuff. People in the DIY SQ world have been using them for years. Look at the frequency response graphs to get a good idea of where to cross them over at.
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:41 AM   #5
lowranger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobditts View Post
definitely go active with that amp. The price of the speakers has nothing to do with performance. PE.com sells awesome stuff. People in the DIY SQ world have been using them for years. Look at the frequency response graphs to get a good idea of where to cross them over at.
That's why I'm doing dayton. I have been looking into them way before even seeing nasioc work with them. Excellent speakers. Ill have them glassed in, obviously.

4 channel is for front stage. I have a diamond 1000.1 for my diamond Mac Daddy 12.8 woofer.
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Old 08-01-2014, 10:32 AM   #6
lowranger
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Going active
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:51 PM   #7
bobditts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowranger View Post
4 channel is for front stage.
sounds like a good plan, but there is only 1 stage. Your sound stage. No such thing as front stage, center stage, rear stage, sub stage. Its all just one stage. Just like being at a concert.
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Old 08-02-2014, 03:23 PM   #8
TXwrxWagon
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you have hands down my FAv HU ever made... hence why I own 4 of them now.. I buy them up like Skittles... lol

7998, phantom face goodness!

ok.. enough Fan-boi...

you also have a GREAT lil gem in the Eclipse amp. I agree completely, run ch 1-2 for the Mids, ch 3-4 for the tweeters, and the $$ saved from the passive purchase... add 50% ($90 + 50 =$140) get a decent closeout on a monoblock, d-class, sub amp.

How did you mount the 7" in the door of the Bugeye? Im curious. Also where is the XT25 (great tweeter choice too!)?

Run the 3-way config. with time align all built in to the 7998, don't look back.

my experience in most cars, when running door mounted drivers 6.5" and up there will be a phase issue. Primarily in the upper midbass/lower midrange area.

Take a CD with a song you know like the back of your hand. Put it on repeat. One speaker at a time, flip the polarity of each front mid. which ever sounds best, with the tweeters wired "absolute polarity", meaning as they are marked, then leave the mids either in or out of polarity. Next same for the tweeters, flipon speaker at a time and listn. if if sounds better out with the driver or passenger out of phase/polarity, leave it where it sounds best. Lastly go back and after you have the tweeters set (in or out of polarity) check the Mid's one more time. The Tweeter is more critical, especially depending on where they are mounted. The higher and further from the mid's center, the more likelihood the stage will open up with one tweeter wired out of polarity. Not to mention, after 27+
years doing this I cannot count the # of drivers missmarked for absolute polarity.

I call this the last 5%... you have 95% of the work done, designing, building, installing, and tuning.. the last 5% is total ear tuning. What you ears tell YOU about YOUR music.

~R.
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