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Old 10-21-2013, 03:20 PM   #76
spydrb8
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Didn't get to work on a few things that I wanted to this weekend. Our road was closed for resurfacing, so no mail/ups/fedex deliveries, and no parts I was expecting. On Friday I started on the fuel system, which meant lots of fittings, and finding a good place for the fuel surge tank. I also needed to find a spot for 2 fuel pumps that is easily reachable and good for plumbing. I ended up putting the walbro lift pump on the wheel well next to the tank, and the 044 below the surge tank and mounted to the lower radiator support. I also started running the fuel return from the fpr to the surge tank but I need to wait for the coolant lines to determine the route.





I was going to try and use the subaru sensors but the outputs needed conditioning for use in the ms3x. It was much easier to drill and tap for GM sensors which work out of the box with the ms3x. I already had the sensors, 9/16" drill and 3/8" npt tap laying around from a previous project so it was a quick job. I also clearanced the intake for the cable throttle body and bolted it into place. Since it's an ebay find I took the time to check and lock-tite the butterfly screws which were barely finger tight. The throttle plate area seals okay but the idle valve port doesn't, so I'll just make a block off plate for that.





I lied, apparently my IAT sensor went missing :P Ordered a new one and a knock sensor mod kit for the ms3x from diyautotune.com. I've been getting all my megasquirt parts from them since forever and I have never been disappointed.


I finished the weekend by making this poorly welded masterpiece. It took most of the day of fit-measure-cut-tack etc. to sort out the exhaust path. It's a little close to the truss bar but it clears just fine and there's about an inch clearance on the axle and spring perch at full droop. I hacked the bellmouth off an old downpipe and welded a v-band to it, then used some 3" stainless bends to put the muffler between the tire and valve cover. There's about 2" clearance on the tire, 1" on the header and it doesn't hang any lower the the engine cradle. The welding could be better, but you can only do so well welding outside with a slight breeze. What you can't see is the O2 sensor bung in the 90*downturn next to the transmission. There's one near the tail pipe exit because that was some scrap 3" I had laying around :P I just need to make a bracket to support the end of the muffler and the exhaust is done!







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Old 11-13-2013, 02:21 PM   #77
spydrb8
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73 vw super beetle

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I'm not making as much progress as I'd like, just too much going on with work, weekend meetings and finishing the racing season. Speaking of race season, we had our last race on sunday and I borrowed David's Cayman S again. It was surprisingly warm in Marina and we over heated the tires, slowing us down by over a second. I came in 2nd in class, but had I run in the correct class for the car I would have been 1st in pax by .3 seconds. I think I need to get a cayman s soon! The good news is that I am now officially the 2013 OSP class champion, and I finished 3rd in points overall for the year. Woohoo!

I've been doing some work on the dash, both digital and physical. I picked up an AIM MXL Pista dash after a great deal came up on it. I took over the dining room table and setup a test bench with the ms3x and the MXL Pista talking via can-bus. I was able to read everything but calculated gear and vss from the ms3x. I shot an email off to AIM but haven't heard anything back from them. The dash is very nice, but the back light is kinda dim, so I'm wondering how well I'll be able to see it in the car. Another concern is oil pressure and temp sensors. I'm not sure if I can add those to the ms3x then read them into the Pista, or if I have to just use the AIM sensors for the dash.





As for the actual dash in the car I started hacking up the foam and steel to clearance for the new dash using the template. I want to put the gas gauge and switches in the center, then put the fuse box and relays where the glove box was.





Using poster board and tape as a base I started doing a very poor job of fiberglassing. I mean it's really bad.



This is only the 2nd time I've used fiberglass so I'm learning quite a bit in the process. It is a bit of a pain to do outside and on your own, the wind didn't make it easier. I did try a few different types of cloth in different areas so I can see how it differs on a non-structural part. The goal is to be comfortable enough to do my splitter and radiator ducting soon.



It really does look awful but I'm going to do my best to clean it up and make it serviceable. It's a race car not a show queen, I just need it to hold gauges and hide wiring.

Moving on!

While I was hacking things up I decided I'd make whats left of the roll cage look presentable. I ground off the stubs for the door bars and the forward down bars. I shot it with a little paint afterwards and it's all pretty again. I still need to cut off the rear plates and trim the rear cage stays to meet the new raised floor in the back.



Another check box on the list was to test fit pedals and modify the shifter. The pedals are a tilton 3 pedal set I had lying around from a previous car, and they almost fit. the MCs push the pedals to far back if i try to fit it all in the footwell. If I try to mount it flush, the body/pan mating surface gets in the way. I've wanted this setup for a long time, because once you've driven with properly setup pedals that's all you want. I did find a reverse floor mount pedal set from OBP so I'll probably pickup one of those to test fit, and it should work with the standard tilton/wilwood MCs. With the move to triple MCs I'll probably re-plumb the brakes with -3 ptfe line, and use the same stuff for the clutch as well. Ironically, it should take longer to remove the old setup than putting in the new one.

As far as the shifter goes, it's an empi hurst knock-off and I've always loved the way it felt. Unfortunately, the vw reverse lock out was effectively 1-2 lock out on the subaru 5sp. I pulled it apart and modified it so the lock out can no longer work. I tried it in the car and all gears engage perfectly. I really want a bug-tech shifter (omg so bad) but I just can't justify $460 for one. I've started to cad up a similar design with an adjustable pivot and more stick height. That way you can adjust the throw to your liking and it puts the shift knob in a race friendly position. I've already had a couple design iterations (one of them was even on purpose!) and I'll put it up soon enough.

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Old 11-26-2013, 01:24 PM   #78
spydrb8
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73 vw super beetle

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Sweet! Lucy made it to the GRM FB page

https://www.facebook.com/grassrootsmotorsports
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:15 AM   #79
spydrb8
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The build is slowing down a bit because Nov-Feb is my busy season. I visited a very cold Chicago for a week and a very warm LA for a week. We had a small Thanksgiving with fried turkey for about a dozen people, and did it again over Christmas. I finally got some time to work on the car over the Christmas break so I've done what I can with the nice but short days.

I swapped the intake out for a dbw wrx intake. I need to widen a few of the mounting holes to make it work, but it seems like that is a common mod. I also picked up some wrinkle finish paint to pretty it up, but it hasn't been warm enough to use it yet.




The intercooler mount is half done, the lower support is in place but it needs to come out again for paint. I'm not sure how I'm going to brace the top yet but it'll probably use the wing stantions for support. The intercooler sticks out more than I thought it would but it should work pretty well as a result.








I got the new OBP pedals in the car as far back as I could mount them. The beetle footwell narrows down too much to put them against the "firewall" so they sit forward about an inch or two. Once the pedals were mounted I could start measuring hose and assembling a dozen fittings.

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Old 12-30-2013, 12:16 AM   #80
spydrb8
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I didn't find any decent guides on ptfe fittings, which are different from aluminum compression fittings I've used elsewhere on the build. So here's a quick write up for the curious.

I started with all my tools in one place: lubricating oil, dowel, wrenches, cutter, and a small flathead screwdriver. I highly recommend leather or thick rubber lined gloves to keep the frayed stainless steel wires out of your skin.




First step is to pull apart the fitting and ready the ptfe hose. The hose has a dumb end and a smart end. You put the first fitting on the dumb end then check/mark the hose length you need in the car. Finally, you cut the hose and assemble the smart end you just cut and you should have a perfect fit.

Here's the steel -3 an ptfe fitting in all it's glory. From the left, the collar, the ferrule, and the main fitting.


Take your dumb end and slip the collar over and push it down out of the way.


Then take your small screwdriver and peel the braided wire away from the teflon core. Be careful around the opening otherwise you'll have trouble getting the ferrule on.


Take your ptfe dowel, or carefully use the screwdriver, to round out the opening of the teflon hose, but try not to flower it outward, again the ferrule is a tight fit.


Now slip the ferrule over the end of the teflon hose but make sure it's inside the braids you separated. Push the ferrule all the way down until it seats fully, you should be able to see in the opening if the teflon seated correctly. Some I could do by hand and others I would need to use the table to force it in.


Push the main fitting down through the ferrule and pull the collar up to about where it is in the pic. It should get to that point fairly easy by hand.


Finally, add a little lube on the braids and threads and start winding the collar up to the main fitting. This is a pain and after a dozen of these you'll really start to feel it in your hands. I used a wrench to help spin the collars up to the fittings and a little lube goes a long way here. Once you get the threads started go slow to avoid stripping the fitting or collar. Don't expect the collar to fully seat on the fitting, if it does good, if it doesn't then don't force it. If you want to be really trick you can pre-intall the line to clock the fitting so its facing the correct way. Once they are threaded these fittings don't really swivel.



There you have it, 1 fitting down and 19 more to go! A couple tips if you want unmarred fittings. Wrap the collar and main fitting in vinyl or teflon tape before you wrench on them or put them in the vice. Lube is super important! I stripped 2 fittings thinking I could do without.
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:17 AM   #81
spydrb8
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Let the hydraulic plumbing begin! First off, the clutch system with a new banjo bolt (10mm x 1mm) and the master cylinder is 3/4" (19mm) to match the subaru slave.



Next was the rear brakes, 10mm x 1mm to -3 AN adapters for the porsche calipers and a tee fitting by the trans going forward to the MC. For front and back circuits I went with 15/16" (23.8mm) to match the porsche 930 master cylinder I was using before.









The finished OBP pedal setup with all the master cylinders mounted, and lines run. the low pressure lines run up through the old heater channel and the reservoirs will sit next to the gas tank.



I'm going to use pieces of leather to keep the stainless hoses from wearing through the low pressure feed lines and to keep the cover plate dimples from digging into them.



I'm still working on the front circuit which gets an aim brake pressure sensor and a brake light switch. I'm just trying to figure out how/where to mount them. I also set the dash and seat in place while working on the pedals, which was nice for me to see. It reminded me that it is in fact a bug and that there's still a few important things on my checklist.

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Old 05-10-2014, 09:34 PM   #82
Eddie at PNR
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Any updates on this? This is a very nice build that you are going to have.
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:07 PM   #83
spydrb8
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Normally, my "busy season" is from the end of November until February. This year I got laid off, panic-hired back as a contractor at an exorbitant rate, and then left for a job at Apple in April. I've only recently had time for the race bug again since 2 other projects cut in line.

All my projects are waking up as I come out of my unusually long busy season. The race bug is taking a bit longer but is getting more goodies than the other two bugs. Recently I stumbled on not one, but two sets of spendy race wheels for a bargain. The first set I lucked into was some CCW CW10, mixed from a Cayman S and a GT3 in 18x8.5/9. I wrapped them in new Hankook Ventus F200 240/640R18 and 270/680R18 C51 tires, which I got of a racing buddy for cheap. The cazy part is these wheels are basically new, lass than 100 autox miles on the rims, basically 2 seasons. $1500 all told for this setup, almost 1/3 off it's new price.



The second set of wheels was a lucky find on ebay. I was looking to rebuild a set of Fikse 18" Profil 5S from wheel centers I got off a porsche team last year but no one had used barrels. A new set of barrels and hardware would have set me back about $2600 after tax/shipping. Looking for barrels the other day I come across a set of Fikse Profil 5S 17x9.5/10 for $1400 but one wheel needed an outer barrel half and center. $630 later and its on the way, all told a bit over $2000 for a set of wheels that cost almost twice that, not too shabby. No tires yet but those are coming once the last rim is rebuilt. That gives me 3 wide sets of wheels for the race bug, streets/rains, autox/hillclimb and track days.



Besides tires, I've been accumulating electrical necessities for the wiring job at hand, and once the other 2 cars are finished the wiring will start in earnest. Speaking of the other two cars:

This is Joy, a '71 super beetle, that was delivered to port of SF, sold in south bay, and was used as a commuter car for 41 years from Palo Alto to SF and Oakland. After nearly half a million miles, 3 motors and 2 transmissions, I'm the 2nd owner of this completely rust free, accident free car. She was going to be my new street project until I bought my old car back. I named her Joy because she reminded me I do all this for fun. Joy is basically all new now, everything but the motor/trans has been replaced with new parts, she's been lowered a couple inches for good measure, and sports a white plastidip paint job.



This is Mojo, and he's the biggest draw from the race car right now. Mojo is a saturn yellow '73 super beetle sports bug, just like the race bug, which mean I have 2 out of 2500 that were built. He's been painted to match the german GSR or gelb-schwarter renner (yellow-black racer) that was the german equivalent. I'm the 3rd and the 5th owner of this car, I sold him in February 2010 when I needed money and regretted it every day until I bought him back almost 4 years to the day I sold him. He's also an SF delivered bug, but he's never been more than 100 miles from SF since landing at the port. Unfortunately, he had rust and the first job after getting him back was stripping him down and sending him off to body and paint. Paint is done and interior is going in this week, then he comes home and gets the hot motor that used to live in the race bug.





TL;DR
I've been busy but not on the right car ;P
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:02 AM   #84
spydrb8
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Not too much to report other than finally getting the rim parts I needed to rebuild the last set of race wheels. The rim is back together but I haven't put any sealing caulk on it yet. 17x10.5 ready to go!








To set this into perspective here's a few wheels from my beetles:

bottom: stock beetle 15x4.5 steel rim, 165/85-15 tire
left: ATS classic 15x5, sporty stock beetle, 175/55-15 sporty rim tire
right: CCW CW10 18x8.5, front race bug track wheel, 240/640-18 slick
top: Fikse FM5 Classic 17x10, rear race bug autox wheel, 275/40-17 semi-slick





Trying to drive a bug quickly on stock tires after having any of the others is sketchy as hell btw. You can easily feel the sidewalls squirming underneath you.
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:40 PM   #85
K1llj0y
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Awesome!
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:10 PM   #86
owens87
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Default any advice on doing this to a 74 karrman ghia

Tring to get an inside opinion on how to convert my 74 ghia to accept a subaru motor
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:08 PM   #87
splitime
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Should not have been pointed to this thread... happy I was though. Now the battle over build types just gets more interesting for me.
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:07 PM   #88
todhunter77
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We always called the handle above the glove box the "yee-haw bar", though i've also heard "chicken bar". Old Dominion Speedway in Virginia is closed so no more Bugout. Cool car
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:53 PM   #89
rossbrookham
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I had a couple of old beetles a while ago, with the intention of a subie swap. That never happened, but I love seeing these swaps done.
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Old 01-03-2015, 03:58 PM   #90
RSti_Spyder
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1979 Super Beetle
Convertible STI

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I had to reread your posts as I am now in the process of putting an STi into my 79 convert. Thanks for taking notes for me!


Sent from my iPad using NASIOC
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:10 PM   #91
paulsta
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A lot of good info in your thread, ( thanks ) i'm curently setting up a EJ25 with Megasquirt that will be going in a full lenght dune buggy.

Paul
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:56 AM   #92
Xionation
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Super cool build. Love the bugs. They are all beautiful. Good luck with the build.
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:09 AM   #93
emook
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blue

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very cool build, thanks for sharing the process.
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:35 PM   #94
ErikTande
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This is awesome, thanks for all the detail and pics! I'm going to be doing a subaru swap in my 1972, posts like this are really helping me out!
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Old 06-14-2015, 04:00 AM   #95
1303Steve
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Hi Humble

We meet again, I need to post a EJ 207 question so I need to get my post count up to 3. Got funny issue with the EJ 207 in my Beetle.

Steve
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:15 PM   #96
bigfranks84
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This thread makes me want to get to work on my ej22 swap into my wife's ghia
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