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05-24-2015, 03:17 PM | #1 |
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Oil pan gasket ej257
How the hell did anyone get thus thing loose without pulling the motor. I can literally only pry from one spot and I'm not trying to knick the block. Help me! I'm going nuts over here.
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05-24-2015, 03:36 PM | #2 |
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I just pryed it til it popped. Knicked the mounting surface on the block where i pryed it but since it uses liquid gasket maker the gasket maker fills in the knick. Doesn't leak(on mine anyway). Just did it for a second time yeaterday.
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05-24-2015, 05:45 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
Get a long flat head screw driver. Or you can jack up your engine about 1 inch 1/2 if you undo the dog bone/pitching stopper and the motor mount nuts. Would give some additional room to work with. Use permatex black rtv sealant which is resistant to oil which can be bought at Autozone or O'reillys. Apply a nice smooth thin layer to the oil pan. The oil pan gasket thing is a gimmick, do NOT listen to anyone who says to use a premade gasket.... |
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05-24-2015, 05:48 PM | #4 |
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I finally got it off. I got the black permatex stuff. Getting to the bolts wasn't even hard I jacked the motor/trans up a little and used a nice snap on ball swivel universal joint 1/4 drive. I recommend them. Getting the pan loose was the hardest part by far.
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05-24-2015, 06:32 PM | #5 |
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Shoulda got the grey.
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05-24-2015, 06:37 PM | #6 |
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a dead blow hammer works wonders to get the pans off
and do NOT overtorque them when you re-install them!!!!!! they snap off in a heartbeat... Last edited by Uncle Scotty; 05-24-2015 at 06:49 PM. |
05-24-2015, 10:31 PM | #7 |
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05-24-2015, 10:32 PM | #8 |
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05-24-2015, 11:30 PM | #9 |
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05-24-2015, 11:33 PM | #10 |
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I just did the black because it's high oil resistance and high temp. I'm sure it will work just fine.
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05-24-2015, 11:56 PM | #11 |
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05-25-2015, 12:36 AM | #12 |
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Ok since I sat through a Permatex Rep's presentation once, I'll give you the skinny.
Ultra = Updated formula any time a new oil comes out. So for example when the EPA mandated the shift from CI-4 to CJ-4 oil in diesels, the Ultra compounds got certified to be compatible. Black = good for engine oils Grey = good for synthetic engine oils The black will work, but Permatex doesn't claim it to be a permanent repair when used with synthetic oils. So you may find yourself doing the job again down the road. But if you're gangster, you'll go get yourself a Felpro cork pan gasket. Last edited by CosmoTheCat; 05-25-2015 at 12:44 AM. |
05-25-2015, 01:26 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
a cork gasket |
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05-25-2015, 01:31 AM | #14 |
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When I was working at an independent shop, I was the first time a cork gasket showed up in my parts box.
I didn't use it. The next time, I was But seriously. They make one. It's a "Best Seller" http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...FeroFPOS30656C |
05-25-2015, 02:48 AM | #15 |
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Well, the ultra grey specifically states for being used for high torque situations which the oil pan is NOT. But either the black or the grey will work fine.
What is MORE important is how a person preps the oil pan mating surface and how they spread the sealant out. A smooth flat layer is the better bet, much less chance of irregularities compared to doing a bead and have it squeeze out and stuff. |
05-25-2015, 07:15 PM | #16 | |
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It may say high torque, but their suggested applications say a different story.
Have you sat through the manufacturer's product pitch? I have. I've got pages of notes, somewhere, on all of their automotive products. Quote:
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05-26-2015, 01:36 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
In this case, both will work that has been proven so to the OP, the black will be fine and the grey would of done fine to. Just make sure to prep the pap properly. |
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05-26-2015, 05:33 AM | #18 |
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I cleaned the **** out of both surfaces haha. No gasket was left on there after I cleaned them.
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05-26-2015, 04:56 PM | #19 |
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If you haven't sealed it up, take like 400 grit sand paper and sand down the mating surface on the pan going with the circumference of the pan. Will give something for the sealant to adhere to.
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05-26-2015, 06:34 PM | #20 |
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I used a wire brush and adhesive remover to get the factory gasket off and that scored the surface nicely.
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05-27-2015, 03:06 AM | #21 | |
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Quote:
What the guy said is that while one would work, they don't consider it a "forever" fix. It might be just fine, or it might not. That's why they make different products that are specifically for various fluids - one for gear oil, one for ATF, etc. But his ultimate recommendation, especially in a shop environment, is to use The Right Stuff. It's not RTV silicone. It's elastomeric rubber. Silicone based stuff is supposed to cure for HOURS before you add fluid. Elastomeric rubber is good to go in minutes. When I do a reseal at home, I use the grey three bond, and I let it set up. At work, definitely three bond and I let it set up as much as possible. |
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05-27-2015, 08:46 AM | #22 |
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I appreciate the input everyone but the good news is; it's not leaking! Haha.
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05-27-2015, 08:56 AM | #23 |
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Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker:
This is a gasket material and not just a silicone sealant and would be appropriate for the oil-pan and in place of the FujiBond sealant. The "high torque" has nothing to do with how many Lb/ft the fasteners affixing the item are torqued to; this is with regard to how much the gasket-material will take an imposed load and stretch. If you can obtain the FujiBond sealant, great and if not, use the Permatex Ultra Grey. |
06-03-2015, 08:14 PM | #24 |
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Guess what? The latest Subaru recommended materials TSB 01-167-08R substitutes ALL gasket materials with black RTV.
Specifically 3M Ultrapro 08672 Black can be used in place of: Three Bond 1105, 1207C, 1215, 1217B, 1217G, 1280B, and Fuji Bond C 1105. |
06-03-2015, 08:36 PM | #25 |
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Good, so there is a third choice available.
Use FujiBond and if not available, either Permatex Ultra Grey or 3m Ultrapro. |
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