where to put dielectric grease on plugs

[Sir Punk]

since it's non conductive why would I want to put it on the connector? Shouldn't be put only on the white ceramic part of the plug?

If I use in on the connector then it will reduce conductivity, even if I put it in the rubber booth like someone suggests, it might get on the tip.

can anybody clarify this?

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[prometheum]

the ceramic part

[Sir Punk]

is anti-seize that necessary for copper plugs? or how long would it take to seize if I don't drive too much?

[09rexwagon]

Originally Posted by Sir Punk

is anti-seize that necessary for copper plugs? or how long would it take to seize if I don't drive too much?

Some people will tell you not to use regular anti-seize since it is graphite based and non-conductive and it is the threads of the plug that acts as a ground. There is, however, copper based anti-seize that is a better fit for spark plug threads.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Sir Punk

is anti-seize that necessary for copper plugs? or how long would it take to seize if I don't drive too much?

The copper part in a "copper plug" is NOT the threads of the plug, it's in the electrode.
A copper plug will have the same chances of siezing as any other type of plug since they all use steel for the threads.

[prometheum]

Originally Posted by 09rexwagon

Some people will tell you not to use regular anti-seize since it is graphite based and non-conductive and it is the threads of the plug that acts as a ground. There is, however, copper based anti-seize that is a better fit for spark plug threads.

graphite is plenty conductive; you're not supposed to use graphite based anti-seize on aluminum parts because it will cause them to seize; you need to use a nickel based or molybdenum based anti-seize, one that's rated for high temps

[09rexwagon]

Originally Posted by prometheum

graphite is plenty conductive; you're not supposed to use graphite based anti-seize on aluminum parts because it will cause them to seize; you need to use a nickel based or molybdenum based anti-seize, one that's rated for high temps

Non-conductive was poor choice of words on my part, less conductive was what I meant.

I've always put graphite anti-seize on my spark plug threads until I was visiting a friend at work (Hendrick motor sports facility in Charlotte, NC) and he was going on about how I shouldn't be using it, and to use copper anti-seize. That's what I was going off since if it works on a 700 hp Nascar engine, I'm sure it's good for a passenger car . But you are right in that nickel based anti-seize has better temp. rating, but at the expense of a nudge less electrical conductivity.

[prometheum]

Originally Posted by 09rexwagon

Non-conductive was poor choice of words on my part, less conductive was what I meant.

I've always put graphite anti-seize on my spark plug threads until I was visiting a friend at work (Hendrick motor sports facility in Charlotte, NC) and he was going on about how I shouldn't be using it, and to use copper anti-seize. That's what I was going off since if it works on a 700 hp Nascar engine, I'm sure it's good for a passenger car . But you are right in that nickel based anti-seize has better temp. rating, but at the expense of a nudge less electrical conductivity.

lets just agree that using graphite based anti-seize is a bad idea

[SubySal]

The way I've always understood it is it's OK to use die electric on the part of the plug that is in contact with the wire. Here's why. Since the terminal makes firm physical contact with the plug tip it pushes the die electric out of the way but only where contact is made. This basically seals the plug/terminal contact points from air and corrosion. Putting die electric on the ceramic insulator helps to keep the boot from welding itself to the insulator during use.

I use die electric everywhere. On the plugs and coil. It helps with corrosion on the coil terminals. I've never had a problem with conductivity.

I also use anti seize on the threads since it's steel going into aluminum (dissimilar metals) electrolysis can result. Again no conductivity issues.

[09rexwagon]

Originally Posted by prometheum

lets just agree that using graphite based anti-seize is a bad idea

Sure thing.....definitely not ideal. But on the other hand tons of people have done so with few issues, but there are better options for sure.

[KW900]

I've never heard of the antisieze thing. I have been using the reg grey (I'm assuming this is graphite based) stuff on plug threads for many years.

[09rexwagon]

Originally Posted by KW900

I've never heard of the antisieze thing. I have been using the reg grey (I'm assuming this is graphite based) stuff on plug threads for many years.

Exactly. As did I before my motorsports friend told me about copper anti seize. Nothing to fret about...just some nerds talking about alternatives .

[prometheum]

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/graphite_antiseize.html

[Uncle Scotty]

w0w

somebody(other than me) finally posts something on this subject


and most sparkplugs of the current era are 'anti seize' from the factory and

do NOT

require any kind of anti-seize used on them and

the sparkplug manfacturers(NGK anyway) do NOT recommend using any anti-seize on their products

proper torque is FAR more important----15ft-lbs for OUR cars....and done

[nkodemus82]

^ trust in Uncle Scotty.

180k miles later, no antisieze on plug threads, lots of plug changes, used dielectric each time in the boots. I also dielectric the boots that plug into the coil pack, for the same reasons. keep water out as it seals pretty well. Don't need to fill the boot up, just enough to occlude the opening so it pushes in and seals around when you push either boot on. Has helped a lot keeping the coilpack terminals in good shape.

It's also fun to play with the dielectric when it comes in the needle nose squirt can. good times!