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Old 10-07-2009, 09:58 PM   #1
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Default Oiling issues, need help

Hi all,

I'm going to try and NOT pull too many noob failures here, but i'm in need of knowledge greater than my own...

Driving a EJ20 swapped GC... Stage 3 with a VF22, EcuTek, Pinks, FMIC, ect..

Visual reference... lol..



I'm seeing oil weeping from the bottom of the turbo center section... Not bad, but I can see it either coming from the lower oil fitting or the "v" band thing holding the hot side to the cartridge? I don't actually KNOW what the area looks like, besides what I can see, so I can't say a lot more.. (i'm a mechanical tech by trade, but not on Subies)

I'm also seeing weepage from either the oil pan or something to do with the factory oil cooler donut.. I'm getting enough from the area that it re-wets on a 5mi drive... it's not the filter, it's not the pan bolts that I can tell, I tightened them up, and only one was lose in the slightest and it got a fresh application of permatex.. (I have a new pan from a EJ25, from my old RS, are they the same?)

It looks like it's coming from between the block and the oil cooler extension... how to I go about getting to this?

Until now, i've never found anything wet under the car, but this morning, there where 3 drops, all from the oil filter area.. It's enough to be misting the exhaust and FREAKING ME OUT...

I'm also, not showing much of a level change on the oil? I'm running German Castrol 0-w30

If I was over full, would it push oil out from places?


I'm sorry guys, I'm not new to Subies, just turbo ones...

Thank you,
Aaron
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Last edited by Aaron'z 2.5RS; 10-07-2009 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:19 PM   #2
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It's common to get a little weepage around the turbo drain tube on the bottom side when the drain tubing gets brittle from the heat in that area. The nipple that the oil filter screws to is also the bolt that holds the cooler to the block. The cooler has a big o ring between it and the block so it is unusual that it is leaking unless it is really loose.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:26 PM   #3
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nice ic pipe routing job! If you overfill the engine with oil it will weep out of places (such as engine seals) sometimes causing the seals to go bad. I always keep plenty of oil in my engine ...around 5 quarts. I have never had a weepage ( is that a word?) problem.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:30 PM   #4
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Thanks...

So can I simply tighten the oil cooler by removing the oil filter? Is there some sort of nut up inside? maybe it IS loose.. ? Wouldn't surprise me with the car, the previous owner had some issues with getting things 100%.. lol..

I've only done one oil change on the car in the 2yrs i've owned it because I haven't really even driven it that much..I got it in the fall, garaged it over winter.. drove it a little last summer and it spent most of this summer in the garage doing audio... So I don't know anything really about the oil cooler and how it's attached.. I would think it was spun on and the hoses attached after?

again thanks..
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:34 PM   #5
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there is a nut that threads onto the oil filter shaft that holds it to the block with the seal...might as well change the seal? it is very simple just do it when you do an oil change ...it is either 22 or a 24mm deep socket i cant remember
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJavaPearl04 View Post
nice ic pipe routing job! If you overfill the engine with oil it will weep out of places (such as engine seals) sometimes causing the seals to go bad. I always keep plenty of oil in my engine ...around 5 quarts. I have never had a weepage ( is that a word?) problem.
not sure if weepage is a word or not... I know Chevy water pumps have weep holes so you know when the seals go...

So you overfill? how far over does that .5-.8qt put you on the stick?
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:36 PM   #7
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On the turbo it may be the oil return gasket between the metal down fitting and the center cartridge, mine was doing the same thing and it fixed it.
It also got EVERYTHING covered in oil, so it may solve your oil cooler problem too, it get my oil pan wet. 1 drop of oil can cover so much stuff!

The bummer is that you have to pull the turbo
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJavaPearl04 View Post
there is a nut that threads onto the oil filter shaft that holds it to the block with the seal...might as well change the seal? it is very simple just do it when you do an oil change ...it is either 22 or a 24mm deep socket i cant remember
The seal between the block and the cooler? I could do that, I was hoping not to drain down the engine right now... I'm just trying to get to when snow flies... Then a lot of things are going to be buttoned up...

You wouldn't know of a diagram of the cooler would you? So I could better understand what's going on in there, I mean I know it's simple, I just don't want to get stuck in the middle...
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
not sure if weepage is a word or not... I know Chevy water pumps have weep holes so you know when the seals go...

So you overfill? how far over does that .5-.8qt put you on the stick?
Some people claim they run 5 quarts of oil with no problems...I have and have not had any issues... though my last build was consuming oil which is why i kept it that full. It reads a bit above full its only .2 quarts over factory capacity.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:43 PM   #10
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subaruparts.com has brake down diagrams for the impreza so you can see how it is assembled as well as what each part is along with the part #
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
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On the turbo it may be the oil return gasket between the metal down fitting and the center cartridge, mine was doing the same thing and it fixed it.
It also got EVERYTHING covered in oil, so it may solve your oil cooler problem too, it get my oil pan wet. 1 drop of oil can cover so much stuff!

The bummer is that you have to pull the turbo
Crap, so you are saying i'll have to pull the turbo to do the gasket... crap..

Whats the gasket look like? is it a felt/paper? O-ring? metal?

I wish I had a side view type diagaram so I could better understand how things lay out in there... I think I have it mostly figured out, but it's hard to see on the passengers side top of the motor as y'all know..

I keep smelling warm coolant, like I have a substantial leak, but I don't? I mean I also have a small amount of coolant on the top of the block, pooled around the knock sensor..?? But I can see the fitting going into the block has crusties around it, so it's gotta be leaking..

Isn't there a problem with running regular green coolant in Subies?
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
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subaruparts.com has brake down diagrams for the impreza so you can see how it is assembled as well as what each part is along with the part #
Saying I need to be a registered user to access it?? Thanks though, I looked at what I could, which didn't help much, though..
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Old 10-07-2009, 11:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
Crap, so you are saying i'll have to pull the turbo to do the gasket... crap..

Whats the gasket look like? is it a felt/paper? O-ring? metal?

it is a hi temp 'fiber' type(looks like paper, but isnt)...Felpro makes some grey material that should do it...

I wish I had a side view type diagaram so I could better understand how things lay out in there... I think I have it mostly figured out, but it's hard to see on the passengers side top of the motor as y'all know..

I keep smelling warm coolant, like I have a substantial leak, but I don't? I mean I also have a small amount of coolant on the top of the block, pooled around the knock sensor..?? But I can see the fitting going into the block has crusties around it, so it's gotta be leaking..

Isn't there a problem with running regular green coolant in Subies?

nah...

if the throttle body still has the coolant running through it...do the tb coolant bypass mod
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Old 10-07-2009, 11:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
Saying I need to be a registered user to access it?? Thanks though, I looked at what I could, which didn't help much, though..
d00000000000000000d

put in yer email addy and a password and you are all goood

d00000000eeeeettttttt

ive been using that site for years and it wont spam yer email

promise
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Old 10-07-2009, 11:13 PM   #15
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if the throttle body still has the coolant running through it...do the tb coolant bypass mod
It does and I will... It's one of the first things I want to do this winter...

I thought regular green coolant was to acidic for subies for some reason? chewed up gaskets or something? Wasn't that part of the issues with the phase 1 2.5L..?

Quote:
d00000000000000000d

put in yer email addy and a password and you are all goood

d00000000eeeeettttttt

ive been using that site for years and it wont spam yer email

promise

TTTTTTThhhhhhhaaaaaannnnnnkkkkkk Yyyyyyooooooouuuuuuu


Iiiiiiiii wwwwiiiiiilllllll right now...

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Old 10-07-2009, 11:15 PM   #16
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Looking at diag. right now... thanks
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Old 10-07-2009, 11:21 PM   #17
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I've herd bad things about a screen in the block that feeds the turbo oil... should I be checking that if I pull the turbo?

I'm just going to be throwing ideas in here so bear with me please.... thanks.. .
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Old 10-07-2009, 11:57 PM   #18
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ehh...i didnt have a screen in mine...you are correct in that they are trouble...so if you have one just take it out....a lot of people do
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
I've herd bad things about a screen in the block that feeds the turbo oil... should I be checking that if I pull the turbo?

I'm just going to be throwing ideas in here so bear with me please.... thanks.. .
2.0T NEVER had any 'screens'....2.5T ONLY
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:44 AM   #20
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got it, didn't see any screens in the diagrams..
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:05 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
Crap, so you are saying i'll have to pull the turbo to do the gasket... crap..

Whats the gasket look like? is it a felt/paper? O-ring? metal?

I wish I had a side view type diagaram so I could better understand how things lay out in there... I think I have it mostly figured out, but it's hard to see on the passengers side top of the motor as y'all know..

I keep smelling warm coolant, like I have a substantial leak, but I don't? I mean I also have a small amount of coolant on the top of the block, pooled around the knock sensor..?? But I can see the fitting going into the block has crusties around it, so it's gotta be leaking..

Isn't there a problem with running regular green coolant in Subies?
Its a felt paper gasket like stuff, i got fel-pro gasket material from the parts store,8 bucks for 4 sheets of it, each a different type of material. You also have tons of leftovers incase you need it in the future.

I used the black looking kind that was good for oil.

i you were to look from underneath can you see if there is oil coming from up top, the bottom of the turbo area?

If you are any way mechanically inclined, which i am most likely guessing you are, you can remove the turbo, its simple and easy.

Remove the intercooler, 5 top bolts on the DP, two in the bottom, clamp on the inlet, top oil banjo, coolant lines top and bottom (clamp the bottom one it will keep leaking excessively if you dont), and 3 bolts on the up pipe. Then while taking it off there is a oil return line with a little dinky spring clamp, thats it.

If your gonna do that might as well do a up-pipe ( if you dont have a catless one), an inlet if you want, definatly alot easier with no turbo in the way, and anything else that would need the turbo to be removed.

If you do take it off, get some 5/8ths tubing and make yourself a longer oil return line, it helps LOADS while putting the turbo back on.
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Old 10-08-2009, 10:05 AM   #22
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Thank you much Bigolrig.. I'm trying to have the car in shape for saturday morning.. Don't know if I can plull together what I need before then...

Do I need new washers for the banjo bolts? If so, could I get them locally as a non-subaru part? (like what's their size, if possible)

Again, thanks dude... !!
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:29 PM   #23
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Um, I'm not too sure on the size, I've always re-used them and i don't have any problems.

If you want you could take them to a parts store and they might have some.

Also while taking off the turbo and putting it back on, be careful with the inlet, they like to rip, you will see what I am saying when you get to it. Where the inlet clamps onto the compressor housing it is soft, really soft.

It may sound like a PITA to fix, but its not too terrible, just time consuming.
You will see it all come together as you take it apart
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:40 PM   #24
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Thanks again Big-ol-rig..

I tightened the oil cooler nut, it wasn't lose so I got about 1/16th of a turn on it...

I have a Perrin intake, so i'm not so worried about the inlet ripping... I'm more worried about doing the work and having it finished on time for my Cruse saturday... i'm doing whatcan to avoid it till after....

I have pics..
oil cooler...


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Old 10-08-2009, 05:05 PM   #25
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Yup, looks like that gasket i mentioned...

Im just throwing out as much info I can, because I wish i had it

Nasioc needs a general "tips to work on my Subaru" thread.
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