Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday July 11, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Service & Maintenance

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-10-2004, 02:54 PM   #1
Unabomber
Big Ron
Moderator
 
Member#: 18062
Join Date: Apr 2002
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: I can save you a ton of cash
Vehicle:
on car parts so PM
me b4 j00 buy

Default

Spark Plug FAQ

What type of spark plugs should I run in my car? Refer to your owners manual for recommendations. Alternately, you can visit an auto parts store or online retailer for recommendations on suitable spark plugs designed for your vehicle. Major manufacturers are:
a. NGK
b. Bosch
c. Denso
d. Autolite
e. Champion

Who are the specialty spark plug manufacturers? These manufacturers make specialty plugs that have unique compositions or designs that claim increases over traditional plugs. They are listed for advanced users or those with interest.
a. Torquemaster
b. Beru (specifically the Silverstones found here)
c. SplitFire
d. PREP spark plugs
e. E3 spark plugs
f. Pulstar plugs

What types are there? There are really three main types:
a. conventional nickel alloy (commonly referred to as "copper")
b. platinum
c. iridium

Which type should I use? That depends on how often you are interested in changing the spark plugs. Conventional spark plugs generally last one year. Platinum or iridium can last, depending on manufacturer specifications, up to seven years.

What's some good background spark plug information?

Materials: The three main types of spark plug materials are nickel alloy, iridium, and platinum. Copper can be used in the core all plugs.

All ground electrodes are made of nickel. The use of Platinum and Iridium, which are stronger, allow for much finer CENTER electrodes (the ground electrode is still Nickel). These finer electrodes do not quench the flame core as much as a conventional style plug. This increases ignitability, therefore increasing HP. It's not a huge gain, but cylinder pressures are measurably higher.

Platinum or iridium can be used as a thin pad which is laser welded on the ground electrode (the "J" strap), this serves to increase the life of the plug.

Heat Range: Heat range deals ONLY with the temperature of the insulator of the plug (the white part). We typically only care about the temperature of insulator, as that is what gets hot enough to pre-ignite, and consequently, that’s what gets measured.

Gap: Gap has a lot to do with igniteability. The bigger the gap, the better combustion. HOWEVER, this comes at a cost. The bigger gap requires MORE voltage to spark, puting a much higher strain on your ignition system. With a turbo charged motor, the gap is usually smaller. This is due to the fact that higher cylinder pressures make it harder for the plug to fire, therby increasing voltage requirments (this is why 2.5L NA is 0.044" gap and the 2.5L turbo is 0.030" gap). Can your ignition system handle the increased load?? Good question.

Corrugations: Ever wonder why those ribs are on a spark plug? They serve to increase the di-electric strength of the spark plug. The high voltages of modern ignition systems could cause an arc, known as flash-over, from the terminal of the plug to the metal shell of the plug. The corrugations essentially increase the surface distance from the tip to the ground of the plug.

Multi Ground strap plugs: Ever wonder what good the multiple ground strap plugs, such as bosch platinum +4, are good for? These plugs have a bit longer life and a higher fouling resistance. However, they can have a decrease in igniteability, reducing performance slightly.

Knocking and Preignition: These are SEPERATE events. Knocking occurs when the combustion flame happens much too early, causing the flame front to "slap" the piston. Preigntion occurs when the spark plug (or somthing else in the cylinder) gets too hot and ignites the air/fuel mixture before the spark does. This can happen only a couple of degrees before the spark plug fires, so it is possible to have pre-ignition and not know it. Pre-ignition can, and usually does, eventually lead to knocking.

Resistor (The "R" printed on the insulator) Many spark plugs have a special conductive glass seal between the center electrode and the terminal stud. This seal acts as a resistor in the plug which reduces the transmission of pulses of energy to the ignition cables. These pulses can cause Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) with electrical components in the car. For some newer cars, resistor plugs are required for effective communication between the plugs and the electronic ignition.

Radio Frequency Interference (RFI): When the spark plug creates a spark, a high frequency burst of energy is created. If this energy was to travel through the ignition wires, it could cause interference with other sensitive electronic devices, such as the radio or electronic control units. The resistor in the spark plug reduces this energy before it causes interference with other electrical components.

Fouling: Fouling occurs when a plug becomes contaminated with fuel, oil, or other contaminates that prevent the plug from generating a spark. Most plugs today are designed to reduce fouling and become self-cleaning when they reach 500 degrees Celsius. However, short trips, low speed driving, improper spark plug heat range (too cold), improper timing, or an oil leak in the combustion chamber can cause a spark plug to become fouled.

Bridging: Over time, contaminants can build on the surface of the spark plug if it does not reach self-cleaning temperature often. These buildups can grow between the electrodes until they are actually connected by a bridge of contaminants. This will often cause misfire.

Flashover: Occurs when the spark does not jump between the electrodes within the combustion chamber, but instead jumps between the metal shell and the terminal on top of the plug. This will always cause a misfire since the air/fuel mixture will not be ignited

Quenching: The purpose of a spark plug is to introduce enough heat into the combustion chamber to initiate a smooth burn of the air/fuel mixture. Quenching occurs when that heat generated by the spark is reabsorbed back into the ground electrode, the center electrode, and the ceramic insulation.

How often should I change my spark plugs? Refer to and use the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual when using stock plugs. For other plugs, refer to the plug manufacturer's recommendation.

Are there any special considerations for nitrous users? Zex has a line of spark plugs specifically designed for nitrous applications. Some claim that platinum spark plugs should not be used in vehicles equipped with nitrous.

Which type produces the most power? This is a hotly debated topic with few consistencies. Conventional wisdom says that copper spark plugs produce more power than the longer life platinum or the newer iridium. In the end, there really is no concrete evidence one way or the other as any dyno testing of spark plugs results in differences that are far less than the dyno tolerances from run to run.

What is the gap specification for my plugs? Refer to your owners manual. In the case of some iridium plugs and certain plugs by other manufacturers, they will come pre-gapped. These certain type of plugs are not designed to by gapped by the end user. This post is very informative on proper spark plug gapping theory.

How do I gap my plugs? To decrease the gap, tap the ground electrode onto a hard surface. This should be a slow process as you are removing thousandths of an inch. Too hard a tap to start off with could damage the center electrode. To increase gap, use gapping wire or feeler gauges. Many parts stores also sell cheap 99 circular spark plug gap key chains. These should be avoided as they leave a slight angle to your gap. For the ultimate gapping tool, Jacobs Electronics makes a professional gapping tool. Some manufacturers' spark plugs are not designed or intended to be gapped. If you purchase one of these types, do not re-gap these plugs to factory specifications!

What is "indexing" and how much more power will I get? Indexing (AKA "degreeing") refers to how the spark plugs are installed so that the ground electrode is oriented to face the intake valve in an effort to "open up" the spark to the incoming air/fuel charge. This is accomplished by placing a washer underneath the spark plug's shoulder area (of a specified thickness) so that after properly torquing the spark plug, the electrode would be pointed in the desired direction, usually towards the incoming air/fuel charge from the intake valve. It is important to note that any power increase will be small and the results can only be determined after extensive dyno testing. It is generally a waste of time unless you have the training or the dyno facilities to document the results.

Do I need a colder spark plugs? A rule of thumb is one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70C to 100C from the combustion chamber. The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, so a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK or in Autolite. When making the decision to change the heat range of your plugs, it is a wise idea to make changes in 1 heat range increments, checking all your plugs for suitability during your test. Vehicle modifications during the test phase of your plugs is not recommended as this may skew your results.

So really...do I need colder spark plugs? Probably not as in the end it won't make enough difference to be felt. But if you want the bling of saying you have iridium one step colder plugs and you enjoy the work, knock yourself out.

Do I need to consult with my tuner about spark plugs? Yes. Items in your car that can be tuner specific: manual boost controllers, electronic boost controllers, upgraded wastegates, restrictor pills, wastegate helper springs, external wastegates (type/size/brand), spark plug types/brands/gaps, and injector types/brands/sizes. ALWAYS take your tuner's advice on these matters no matter what the internet tells you!

So how do colder plugs actually remove heat?



How do I troubleshoot my spark plugs upon removal to diagnose problems?
a. .pdf document by Autolite
b. .pdf document by Bosch
c. html page by Denso

How do I replace my spark plugs?
scoobymods.com instructions (with photos)
scoobymods.com instructions (with photos)
scoobymods.com supplemental information about WRX plug coils
IWSTI.com instructions
nasioc.com instructions
2011 WRX plug install instructions

What is the #1 spark plug fault? Improper torque when installing them. If you undertorque a plug, you could destroy your engine due to reduced heat transfer at the threads, thus causing the plug to overheat and pre-ignite. This is actually common due to the gasket making the plug feel tight when its not. Use a torque wrench each and every time! There are other methods to do this, but they should only be used in an emergency or by people who have a sense of feel and experience.

What is the torque specification on spark plugs? 15-19 ft-lbs. If a torque wrench is not available, tighten hand tight. Then tighten with a standard socket wrench and additional 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. And for you super anal retentive and smart folks, when using anti-seize compound on spark plugs, you can effectively reduce the torque needed by 1/3, but at these low torque levels it's really not going to matter.

Editors Note

This post was created because I wasn't able to find a good spark plug FAQ. I came up with the text based on LOTS of searching here and the internet. Upon reading this you should have an idea of what type of spark plug best suit your needs.

If you find an error in this FAQ, please PM me with factual details and I will update this post. If you feel this post is missing an important or common spark plug information item, let me know and I will research it and update this post.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by Unabomber; 02-24-2012 at 07:27 PM.
Unabomber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2004, 02:57 PM   #2
Unabomber
Big Ron
Moderator
 
Member#: 18062
Join Date: Apr 2002
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: I can save you a ton of cash
Vehicle:
on car parts so PM
me b4 j00 buy

Default

STi + 2.5L turbo owners:

The correct spark plug for you is SOA part number 22401AA630 AKA NGK ILFR6B. A substitute might be LFR6A-11 or LFR6AIX-11 if you want iridium.

Denso Iridium IKH22 is the correct sized one step colder plug as seen on this thread.

NGK iridum LFR7AIX, is the correct sized one step colder plug as seen on this thread. Or one could use the NGK iridium ILFR7H if you change the gap.

Currently no other manufacturer makes aftermarket spark plugs designed for the STi + 2.5L turbo. Many use aftermarkets anyway, but if you look at the pictures on this thread, you can see there is a pretty sizeable difference between the STi + 2.5L turbo plugs and the aftermarket ones.

This post contains more info on STi + 2.5L turbo spark plugs.

WRX owners (2002-2005):

Plug Maker/Type/Part Number/Car Type Used/Heat Range

NGK/Copper/BKR6ES/WRX/stock
NGK/Copper/BKR7ES/WRX/one step colder
NGK/Copper/BKR6E/WRX/stock
NGK/Copper/BKR7E/WRX/one step colder
NGK/Platinum/BKR6EGP/WRX/stock
NGK/Platinum/BKR7EGP/WRX/one step colder
NGK/Platinum/PFR6G/WRX/stock <----OEM plug
NGK/Platinum/PFR7G/WRX/one step colder
NGK/Iridium/BKR6EIX/WRX/stock
NGK/Iridium/BKR7EIX/WRX/one step colder
Denso/Iridium/IK20/WRX/stock
Denso/Iridium/IK22/WRX/one step colder
Champion/Copper/RC10YC4/WRX/stock
Champion/Copper/RC9YC4/WRX/one step colder
Autolite/Copper/3923/WRX/stock
Autolite/Copper/3922/WRX/one step colder
Autolite/Platinum/AP3923/WRX/stock
Autolite/Platinum/AP3922/WRX/one step colder
Autolite/Platinum/APP3923/WRX/stock
Autolite/Platinum/APP3922/WRX/one step colder

Denso Spark Plug Locator
NGK Spark Plug Locator
Autolite Spark Plug Locator

****PFR7B (NGK Part Number 4853) is the correct one step colder plat plug for the 2002-2005 WRX no matter what their website says. The out of the box gap should be at or close to .030. I called the NGK USA toll free # today to find this out and they said they are aware that their site sucks butt and will update it "soon". Info as of April 2005.****

Last edited by Unabomber; 03-26-2009 at 10:19 AM.
Unabomber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2004, 03:05 PM   #3
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

No wonder why some STi owners are blowing motors...using a plug that is THAT FAR WRONG....
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2004, 06:30 PM   #4
Wagon Joe
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 34436
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Silver Lake, NH
Default

thanks for the writeup. looking to change my plugs soon.
Wagon Joe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2004, 01:27 PM   #5
DerFahrer
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 30727
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Orlando, FL
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy B4 RSK
*Formerly subyluvr2212*

Default

Anyone else thinking this should be moved and stickied in the n00b and FAQ section?
DerFahrer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2004, 04:47 PM   #6
tdxflex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 13634
Join Date: Dec 2001
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Boston
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
WRB

Default

02-03 WRX plug gap range is between 0.28 - 0.31
tdxflex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2004, 08:09 PM   #7
munkis
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1847
Join Date: Jul 2000
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: brokenmotorsports.com
Vehicle:
Team Broken: V6 GF
rallyarmor.com

Default

you get a sticky for the extra effort.
munkis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2004, 03:29 AM   #8
Seeing StaRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5294
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Default

Unabomber,
Awesome thread idea
Seeing StaRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2004, 03:25 PM   #9
RATyson
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 34390
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: South East
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
WRB

Default

I bought and installed some champion spark plugs. Now I have what seems to be some slight mis-firing/power loss at about 6k rpms.
Has anyone else experienced this with champion plugs? I'm going to go back to NGKs, I just have to order them.
RATyson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2004, 12:37 PM   #10
coolcougar
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 19674
Join Date: Jun 2002
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Copenhagen
Vehicle:
2006 Baja Turbo 4EAT
Brilliant Silver Metallic

Default

I've read that some people use the NGK PFR7B plug and that it works. But it has a different 'Firing End Construction' How is this plug physically different from the NKG PFR7G plug?
coolcougar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2004, 03:59 PM   #11
SupaSizeFries
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 10088
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Off course.
Vehicle:
2002 Wrx Sti back
from the Dead

Default

I've switched to coppers, and the car runs great.

Last edited by SupaSizeFries; 04-13-2004 at 04:04 PM.
SupaSizeFries is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2004, 08:49 PM   #12
Charlie-III
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: 07456, North NJ
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper Wagon

Default

Hey Legacy guys.

Keep this in mind when shopping for plugs. If you go ask at most places for what they have in stock, they won't have much. Why?, the parts books don't list them all.

I looked up the NGK copper V-grooves and NGK had them listed. The parts place didn't list them for the Legacy.

I asked if they could order a plug PN and they said sure, but we have them in stock.

When they looked up a 1998 Impreza RS (same engine as my car), they had the V-grooves listed.

Go figure.
Charlie-III is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2004, 12:54 PM   #13
termite_one
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 66350
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Default

I have always heard that Platinum plugs can melt under high boost pressures and are generally a bad idea for turbo cars. :P No idea about iridium, but I will stick to coppers.
termite_one is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2004, 01:31 PM   #14
Samirr76
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4835
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Fl33tw00d, PA
Vehicle:
2003 Baja 5MT
Yellow w/ 220,000 miles

Default

Any benefit from going one step colder on a stock WRX?
Samirr76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2004, 08:40 PM   #15
Unabomber
Big Ron
Moderator
 
Member#: 18062
Join Date: Apr 2002
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: I can save you a ton of cash
Vehicle:
on car parts so PM
me b4 j00 buy

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Samirr76
Any benefit from going one step colder on a stock WRX?
Nope, stay stock as they will foul easier unless you drive like a mad man a lot.
Unabomber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2004, 03:38 AM   #16
busternuck
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 69083
Join Date: Aug 2004
Default

Can the Nology Silverstone plugs be used in a direct-ignition setup like some of the Suby models (Legacy GT-B, Rex Version 2 comes to mind)?

A friend tested on his DI WRX (Vers 2 STI) and the car misfired like mad - likely the result of EMI - they are not resistor plugs btw. Its a no-go for the Supra as well.

But have to admit - saw it with my own eyes on a Civic VTEC - the residue left on the Nology plugs were green and not brown as is customary. Suggesting that everything else was burned off with the exception of the petrol dye. I used it on my SF5 but unfortunately i sold the car off without inspecting the plugs. The plugs did feel "better" but then again it could all be purely psychological.

Thinking of putting them on my old workhorse, the '00 GT-B but a bit wary to do so because of the direct ignition setup (It was a no-brainer for the SF5 which had a traditional coil setup).
busternuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2004, 05:04 PM   #17
mcu81
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5796
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Moonshineville
Vehicle:
2013 BRZ & 2004
WRX

Default

i bought the autolite double platinums and advance auto said .44 gap........so i checked all 4 and they were .44 gap, so i just dropped em in, the car runs much smoother than it was, should i worry about that increase in gap? and whats the theory behind adding ad subtracting gap?
mcu81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2004, 11:42 PM   #18
Unabomber
Big Ron
Moderator
 
Member#: 18062
Join Date: Apr 2002
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: I can save you a ton of cash
Vehicle:
on car parts so PM
me b4 j00 buy

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcu81
should i worry about that increase in gap? and whats the theory behind adding ad subtracting gap?
That's a rough question actually without a perfect answer. The theory behind gapping is as follows:

A gap that is too small means that the spark duration will be very quick and the spark will be thin and weak. The consequences of this may be bad starting and high exhaust emission levels. This will result in an increase in fuel consumption. If the gap is set too large, the ignition system will not be able to cope with the demands and a misfire situation will occur.

These "rules" may further be modified by the spark plug manufacturers as certain construction methods or types of materials used will modify the spark plug gap as well.

For best suitability, run the plugs for a month or so keeping an eye on your MPG and possible miss-fire check engine light codes. If no problems you can further back up your peace of mind by pulling the plugs and doing a visual inspection.
Unabomber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2004, 01:12 PM   #19
SeaRex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 31034
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Connect-I-cut
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wagon
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdxflex
02-03 WRX plug gap range is between 0.28 - 0.31
Shouldn't that be 0.028 - 0.031?
SeaRex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2004, 01:14 PM   #20
SeaRex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 31034
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Connect-I-cut
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wagon
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcu81
i bought the autolite double platinums and advance auto said .44 gap........so i checked all 4 and they were .44 gap, so i just dropped em in, the car runs much smoother than it was, should i worry about that increase in gap? and whats the theory behind adding ad subtracting gap?
Wow. .44 is huge.

Any reason I should not use my NGK Iridium BKR6EIX at a gap of 0.030?? I believe 0.030 is stock, yes? My motor is not modified, it is stock.

Cheers,

Sean
SeaRex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2004, 06:12 PM   #21
98kPa
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 17379
Join Date: Apr 2002
Default

So I looked up the plugs for my '02 WRX in from the listing above at the website links given and they all always list the stock version of the plug. How did you find out the part nmber for the colder version?

fyi - something I noticed, colder plugs use a smaller gap (for the Denso's anyway)

jason
98kPa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2004, 08:50 AM   #22
beecha91
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 55009
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Bartlett, IL
Default

I pulled my original plugs the other day, and the stock gap was at .035?
beecha91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2004, 11:52 PM   #23
yo vanilla
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 71903
Join Date: Oct 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: appleton, wi
Vehicle:
07 WRX WRB
13 Mazda CX-5

Default

i didn't think to check my original plugs' gap. btw i got ngk coppers and the car runs great.
yo vanilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2004, 06:29 AM   #24
wrx plus
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 42253
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Hampton, Va.
Vehicle:
2003 RWD WRX
Alcohol injected, WRB

Default

mcu81- .044 gap for autolite 3923 series plugs is correct, and for those of you going one step colder using the autolite plugs ie; 3922, the gap is .034.
wrx plus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2004, 12:28 PM   #25
Bankie
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 37785
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Ohio
Vehicle:
OT hates your car

Default

What material are the stock plugs?
Bankie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cooling System FAQ: Read if you want coolant information! Unabomber Service & Maintenance 514 07-09-2014 01:05 AM
Oil FAQ: Read if you want more information on oil, oil filters, and oil changes! Unabomber Service & Maintenance 830 06-25-2014 06:35 PM
Uppipe FAQ: Read if you are thinking of buying one! Unabomber Newbies & FAQs 345 06-16-2014 12:34 AM
Tool FAQ: Read if you want information on Subaru specific tools and sundries Unabomber Service & Maintenance 40 04-20-2012 12:26 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.