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Old 07-19-2002, 09:42 PM   #1
Veloce
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Default do it yourself fiberglassin'

I just finished my enclosure, take a look fellas. This was my first time fiberglassing, but it wasn't so hard. I ended up with .56 of airspace, the same amount my sub needs. There are plenty of sites on the net explaining how to fiberglass, the process wasn't too difficult, I just put tin foil down real tight on the tire with masking tape, layed about 4 layers of fiberglass, cut around the edges, sanded it, and screwed it tight to the round piece of MDF. My costs were: Dayton titanic MK2 sub: $150 (parts express), US acoustics 600dx $170 (sound domain), enclosure materials : $40.
total project cost: $360

It sounds great too.

time to go wakeboarding...
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Old 07-19-2002, 11:32 PM   #2
Veloce
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Default another pic

Here is a picture of the bottom of the fiberglass mold, without the mdf and sub mounted yet:
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Old 07-19-2002, 11:33 PM   #3
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Looks pretty tight. Are you going to use any sort of grill to protect it? You should also DynaMat or equivilant the trunk.
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Old 07-19-2002, 11:52 PM   #4
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Wow, that's pretty impressive for a first time!

What sites did you use to help you learn how to lay the fiberglass?

Thanks!
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Old 07-20-2002, 03:55 AM   #5
well_armed
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Looks pretty good. You should pay a hefty reward to the people who installed all the wiring and amps in your car for you too, that was a professional install if you ask me.

I'll give you guys one guess who that was.
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Old 07-20-2002, 04:53 AM   #6
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I can build the boxes...but have never done any fiberglass. I too am VERY interested in learning where you gained the knowledge to do the 'glass work. Thanks bro, looks good.

(wakeboarding rocks...)

-XS NOIZ-
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Old 07-20-2002, 07:47 AM   #7
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Last edited by mitch808; 07-20-2002 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 07-20-2002, 04:46 PM   #8
Veloce
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That last websight mitch808 posted was the most helpful one I found. I will definetly sound dampen soon, but I don't plan on adding a grill, because the floor of the trunk fits over of the enclosure along with my cargo mat, making it totally stealth and the trunk usable. It muffles the sound slightly, but it still sounds good. I may in the future biuld a new floor for the trunk that has a 10 inch hole over the sub with some type of screen to protect it and let more bass through.

I found that the tinfoil and masking tape to be the best seal to prevent the fiberglass from permanently attaching to the tire. The only drawbacks were getting the mold out after it dried (it took 3 people after deflating the tire!), and getting the foil and tape off the mold is a pain in the butt! I tried pealing it off by hand, wire brush, electric sander, pressure washer, a dremmel, and finally got it off. In retrospect I should have just left on there, no one would see it anyways.

Fiberglassing is like the paper mache you did in elementary school but a whole lot stinkier. The key to the whole process is getting the fiberglass tight to the tinfoil to maximizing the airspace. Experiment with different shapes of the fiberglass patches, you won't want to use large rectangle pieces like the guy in that web site. I used mainly long pizza shaped pieces, cutting one inch slits up and down both sides to prevent wrinkles. Mix smaller amounts of resin with the hardener so you can take your time. I painted a light coat of resin on the foil, layed down the piece of fiberglass cloth, and then painted more resin on top till it was saturated. I recomend 3 to 4 layers (do it all at once if you can, you don't have to wait for one layer to dry). Try and squish together areas where air has gotten in between the layers of fiberglass, air bubbles will really weaken the enclosure. After it is dried and you have removed it from the tire, sand off the excess fibers and wrinkles and the tin foil, and hold it up to the light to look for thin spots. You want pretty uniform coverage, and it is easy to neglect a spot and even leave small holes, so give it a good check. Some people spray the inside with a sound dampener and paint it. I used some double stick foam tape from home depot to act as an additional seal to prevent air leaks and rattle (the kind that people use to stick their truck canopy to thier bed, as seen in the picture below). Screw the mold into the wood top with a whole bunch of 3/4 screws (You can see where some of the 1 inch screws pushed through, oops), and give it a generous silicone seal.

I highly recommend the Dayton titanic MK2 for this type of enclosure, it uses about the same amount of airspace (.56) that is in the wheel well of your spare, and it costs only $150.

Lastly, I plan on adding a speaker terminal on the wood top so I can take the enclosure in and out with ease. They have ones at parts express that are small enough to fit.

Sorry i wrote a book....
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Last edited by Veloce; 07-20-2002 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 07-20-2002, 05:20 PM   #9
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Why are you sorry man? That was very helpful info!

Now, how much air space did you get out of the spare tire well? I need to get .66 cubic feet for my 10" sub... What you reccomend I should do? I was thinking build an MDF box over the top of the fiberglass inside the spare well...
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Old 07-20-2002, 05:51 PM   #10
Veloce
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I calculated .56 airspace using water in this enclosure. You can mount a wood box to the top of the fiberglass mold, but then the woofer will have to protrude through the floor of the trunk. Of course you can put a grill on it to protect it, but in my opinion trunks are for throwing junk in, not worrying about stereo equipment. There are several people who have this design, run a search on "spare tire" to see. The advantage of my design is it is very easy to build and totally stealth.

car stereo install day, fun stuff...
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Last edited by Veloce; 07-20-2002 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 09-26-2002, 06:23 PM   #11
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how much is a new spare? I tried this and now I can't get the fiberglass off of the spare
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Old 09-26-2002, 06:57 PM   #12
Veloce
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I don't know how much a new spare is, but i had a similar problem, and in fact i though at first that my mold was permanently stuck to the tire. What did you use to seal off the tire from the fiberglass? If you used a sufficient amount of tinfoil and tape to seal in the cracks, it should come out. I deflated my tire and then it still took three big guys to pull it off, some held the tire while others pulled. The point is, if you had a good seal between the tire and mold it should come off with a lot of elbow grease. Good luck.
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Old 09-29-2002, 12:22 PM   #13
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I finaly got the mold off
I thought for sure I was going to have to scrap the spare tire and buy a new one, then forget about the whole sub enclosure, but it came out !!!
I put a lot of dry ice all over the wheel and mold, then I heated the metal with a blow dryer while prying the mold out.

By the way i made my encloser out of carbon fiber instead of fiberglass, I'll post some pics a little later after I carpet the mdf

Did you use any ploy-fill inside of your encloser??
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Old 09-29-2002, 08:47 PM   #14
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Nice work and the same to the write up. I think I might try this.

Did you do the glassing with the donut in or out of the car?
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Old 09-30-2002, 01:46 AM   #15
Veloce
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Wrat- Remove the spare tire before fiberglassing. It is messy.
Jetguy- I am glad to hear you got it out of the tire! Yeah, i filled the box nearly half way with polyfill, I think it is called Dacron and you can get it at your local fabric store for cheap, no need to buy the expensive car stereo brand stuff. Some people coat the interior of the enclosure with a liquid or spray-on sound dampener, I don't know which is better, (or both), it probably depends on your sub. I had to redo the wood top of my enclosure, adding terminals, because of some tiny air leaks. Make sure that baby is super airtight...

Carbon fiber huh? I can't wait to see some pics...
later!
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Old 10-01-2002, 04:44 PM   #16
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Do you belive this would fit in a sedans well without building a false floor? Thanks again!
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Old 10-29-2002, 01:46 AM   #17
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I know this thread is hold, but hopefully you read this, How did you attach the MDF to the fiberglass? I am looking to do that exact install myself, but have never worked with fiberglass. Would there be any advantages to using Kevlar?
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Old 10-29-2002, 04:03 AM   #18
well_armed
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maybe I can answer this, I helped Veloce build this and he is no where to be seen this last week.

We attached it using about (10) wood anchoring screws, self anchoring to ensure a snug fit with the wood and fiberglass shell. You could use nuts and bolts, with lock tite if you wanted to get extreme. To help the fiberglass contour with the wood we used some foam padding, about an 1/8 of an inch thick and 1" in width, this acted like a gasket for the seal. You can get it at Home Depot for cheap. They market it as stuff to use to act as a layer in between your truck canopy and bed (RV or canopy top). you can see it on the second to last photo posted. We then took silicone and glued the crap out of it inside and out to ensure a proper seal. This is mandatory for our sealed enclosures. This may not be the most fancy way, but it worked out very well. The sub has a very tight seal and the fiberglass and wood have held steady with all the silicone.

I dont know about Kevlar, and I doubt Veloce will as well. The above procedure should be accurate for you. Oh and one more thing, make sure you dynamat the spare tire well. It is much needed and will help out a lot with the vibration of the sub and spare tire well humming. It is damn close to the metal, and when you turn it up, the car's sheet metal does make some noise. Kinda like the trunk lid in the sedan.

Doug
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Old 10-29-2002, 09:02 AM   #19
jetguy
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I attached my carbon fiber to the mdf a little differently.
I used 2 peaces of mdf. they both have the same outer dimmentions, but the top peace has only the hole cut for the sub woofer and routed out that hole so the sub is flush. the bottom peace of mdf has a bigger hole, the same size as the widest part of the spare rim, this hole is also routed about 3/16" deep. that is so I can samdwitch the carbon fiber lip of the encloser between the 2 peaces of mdf and use lots of sealent on both sides of the lip.

plus this desine gives you a little extra internal voulume, wich is a good thing.
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Old 10-29-2002, 10:52 AM   #20
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That's tight. You know they say if you didn't build it then it isn't really yours. Is there a particular website or book that you looked at that explains the process?

I'm getting an itch to create something crazy for my ride.
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Old 10-29-2002, 12:22 PM   #21
jetguy
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Thanks,

try searching this sight and www.google.com for fiberglass subwoofer enclosure , or spare tire subwoofer enclosure.

hope that helps.
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Old 10-29-2002, 02:26 PM   #22
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Check out this site . There are also links to kick panels and trunk enclosures at the bottom.
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Old 03-06-2003, 03:18 PM   #23
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PICS of the carbon fiber?
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Old 03-06-2003, 05:04 PM   #24
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Do a search for jetguy and spare sub to find pictures of it. Looks REALLY, REALLY good. It doesn't look like the typical CF. There are no close up pictures, but it just looks like a dark gray matte finish. The CF weight and strength properties are what you're after anyway.
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Old 03-06-2003, 05:20 PM   #25
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My bad, this is the only picture I can find of it. I guess I was making up stuff about having seen the bottom side of it.
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