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Old 06-07-2001, 02:48 PM   #1
craig__w
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Post WRX Front speaker max mount depth?

What is the maximum mounting depth for the front doors in the standard locations in a WRX sedan. I'm looking at Alpine DDDrive 6.5" DDC-R17A or Infinity 60.2cs's. Which would anyone recommend? Personally I'm leaning toward the Alpines as I got the Alpine 407 to drive them and I figure they are well matched, but the mounting depth is 2.7" vs 2.4" for the infinity's. I heard that the WRX mounting depth is pretty shallow. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Craig
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Old 06-07-2001, 08:15 PM   #2
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You'll need a mounting adapter anyway, I used 1/2" plywood which gave me an extra 1/2" of depth to work with. The JBL GTO's I used show a depth of 2" on the box, I measured it as a little more....

Paul
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Old 06-07-2001, 10:27 PM   #3
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Anything over about 2.5 inches is going to be tough. You'll need a spacer/adapter and if the depth is over 2.5 inches your spacer will have to be over an inch, which will cause interference with the door panel. So use something shallower if you can.
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Old 06-08-2001, 07:27 AM   #4
craig__w
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How deep are the standard speakers? I guess I'm lazy, and I could take the door panels off but I figure I don't want to drive around with it off while I find some speakers that fit.

If anyone could tell me that would be appreciated, even give some recommendations as to what other people have in there as replacements that were and easy swap.

-C
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Old 06-28-2001, 08:41 PM   #5
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where can i get such spacers/adapters for the front doors ?
i notice the door hole isnt exactly flat...what dimensions would i need for fabricating a spacer from plywood for a front speaker of 2 " ??
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Old 06-29-2001, 07:36 PM   #6
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The minimum depth from the top edge of the sheetmetal is right at 1.5"- horribly shallow. I went with 4" infinity Kappas which fit with only about 1/2 inch of spacing. There are a few shallow 5.25"s, but the only ones I found were overpriced.
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Old 07-01-2001, 03:26 PM   #7
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I did some measurements while installing some sound damping material with and without the door panels to check mount depth, etc...

Mount depth to the top of the plastic doo-dads that you screw into to the end of that gold colored screw that sticks through the window when rolled down is close to 1.75", not quite there, but close.

Distance from the top of the gold screw to the furthest inside point in the doorpanel is about 3.125"

Distance from the top of the gold screw to the part where the door panel bulges out is about 3.5"

Mounting radius for the original speaker seems to be about 3 3/8", but is probably actualy some metric equivalent, though 3.375 is really close.

So it looks like a spacer of somewhere between 1 and 1.25" would be the max spacer, and would leave some room for the speaker lip. Also, you may be able to get more depth (and better imaging) through a slanted mount that would maximize the usable space under the door panel.
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Old 07-02-2001, 05:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Concillian
I did some measurements while installing some sound damping material with and without the door panels to check mount depth, etc...

Mount depth to the top of the plastic doo-dads that you screw into to the end of that gold colored screw that sticks through the window when rolled down is close to 1.75", not quite there, but close.

Distance from the top of the gold screw to the furthest inside point in the doorpanel is about 3.125"
So you are saying you can have a speaker with a total depth of 2.75" pretty easily w/ a 1" piece of plywood??? Kind of hard to decipher your numbers but it looks like you are saying you could actually squeeze a 3.125" deep (total) speaker in there.

Also, w/ your small 3.375" diameter speaker hole measurement, your are also saying that we are all going to need a dremel to get even 5 1/4" speaker in there.
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Old 07-02-2001, 07:40 PM   #9
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Well, the popular Boston Pro's will not fit...don't even try unless you want to cut and mold. BUT, I did fit the DSiamond HEX series in the doors and instead of jimming a spacer, used the grille bracket ar the spacer. I just flipped it upside down slipped the speaker in to it and screwed it in and the door panel went on without a problem. Much, MUCH better than the MB Quarts and the bostons. One friend has MB Quarts in a new S4 and is jealous of my sound from the Diamonds. Another has Bostons in his new truck and again, no comparison. Point being, ease of install. Whatever speaker you go with, try using the plastic piece that the speaker grille attaches to as your spacer...you might get lucky.
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Old 07-02-2001, 08:25 PM   #10
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Default Diamonds....

t-bone - thanks for the post.
What size Diamonds did you pop in? Component Hex S600s (s-silk tweeter) by chance? I listened to these as well as MB Quartz, Infinity, etc this weekend. The Diamonds blew them away?

Where did you get them...as they are big buck and I am shopping around. Also, how much power are you driving them with (they recomm. 35w min) The install sounds cool the way you did it and knowing that they fit is excellent (or did you do 5 1/4"s???).
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Old 07-02-2001, 09:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
So you are saying you can have a speaker with a total depth of 2.75" pretty easily w/ a 1" piece of plywood???
Assuming the woofer excursion doesn't cause the woofer to hit the door panel at high volume, yes, this should be the case.

Quote:
Kind of hard to decipher your numbers but it looks like you are saying you could actually squeeze a 3.125" deep (total) speaker in there
Assuming:
(1) you are accounting for the top AND bottom depth.
(2) you are accounting for full woofeer excursion
(3) My measurements are 100% correct

I wouldn't go much above 2.75" without the availability of tools to make quick modifications if necessary.

Quote:
Also, w/ your small 3.375" diameter speaker hole measurement
Nope, I said, 3.375" radius . This is the radius for the three mounting holes, not the radius of the hole that the speaker drops into, I didn't measure that one. This information was merely given for the ease of fabricating a spacer, so it wouldn't take a trial and error to determine roughly where the screw holes would be (they are equally spaced at 120 degrees apart) and how big in diameter the spacer needed to be.
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Old 07-03-2001, 08:08 PM   #12
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moltibici


I went with the Diamonds 600S ( the Alum tweeter is Too bright) I actually got lucky and picket them up for dealer cost which was in the low 400's. You can usually get them at a store for about 550-575 I believe. Sometimes eBay might have them. Right now, I just used my old amp from my other car. Its a 4 channel Adcom amp and puts out approx 125 watts per channel. I heard that these speakers are prettyu power hungary. Just look at the xover network that they come with. Its beefy (and adjustable!!!) If I recall right my install shop told m ethat these speakers perform at their best at about 175 watts being fed to them. I have not really noticed much diffrence. Thw low end might drop out a little at higher volumes (the ones that make you go deaf).

Hope that helps....
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Old 08-13-2001, 09:58 PM   #13
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Default Successful Front Speaker Install

I've got my speakers in.
Here's a picture of the driver side woofer, it's an Alpine.
You can see the spacer I made from 3/4" MDF, I also pushed the bottom out with 3/4" nylon spacers. I used 1.5" Sheet metal screws in the top factory hole, and 2" screws in the bottom two. The speaker is screwed into the spacer with four 0.5" screws.
Thanks to Concillian's careful measurements, I was able to draw the spacer out on the MDF using a compass, a ruler, a pencil, and the dimensions of the new speakers from the box. No tracing. The fit was perfect, right down to the holes I drilled. Concillian's measurements are dead-on. Big thanks to him, great job, saved me a TON of time.
I had to cut out the little plastic ring on the inside of the door around the opening. It was trying to cut the surround, and I couldn't let that continue.
I'm still chasing down rattles, but I'm slowly knocking them out with bits of soft foam and hard styrofoam. Pretty much finding spots on the door that are vibrating against stuff and spacing it out on the foam so it doesn't make noise. Cheaper than dynamat, and much lighter. Just time consuming. Listen to a sample, yank of the panel and stick some foam. Listen to a different sample, yank, stick...
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Old 08-14-2001, 01:32 PM   #14
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It's good to know that my measurements were okay...eventually I'll get a set of components, but not until I can make my passenger door panel stop rattling.

1 thing about that install...if you somehow seal the back of your speaker things will sound MUCH better, especially in bass frequencies., though mostly only if you dynamat your doors.

Anyway, i don't know how you'd do it, maybe low expanding spray PU foam (unmount the speaker if you do that, you don't want to mess your speaker with that nasty stuff.) Or maybe a couple sheets of dynamat from the speaker mounting surface to the door surface.

The key here is isolating the rear firing portion of the speaker from the front firing portion of the speaker. For long wavelengths, the rear firing sound waves will work to cancel out the front firing sound waves if they are not isolated in some manner.

If you need to prove this to yourself find a sub and box, and turn it on, then lift the sub out of the box and slowly set it back in, you can notice the bass get better and better. No speaker can have good bass when the front and rear waves can mix. Sound damping material is certainly for more than just rattles...though it works for that too, with my door panel off I have NO rattles, but with the panel on, my passenger side is horrible.

Simple speaker isolation is the first step to decent sound in the doors. Search for my thread on sound damping material in the doors. I was totally blown away at what a layer of damping material did for the bass of my cheap @$$ Kenwood coaxs.

As for chasing down rattles:
I find many tracks in the Fight Club Soundtrack Ideal for this. This tends to cause weird rattling that nothing else does. It's not deep, hard hitting bass, but some wierd mid-low bass that just amplifies rattles for some reason. Coincidentally I like to listen to this CD at relatively high volume compared to the rest of my collection . If you haven't checked out this CD, I think it's some of the best ambient industrial I've ever heard, it's certainly the best Dust Brothers I've heard.

Last edited by Concillian; 08-14-2001 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 04-15-2002, 04:13 AM   #15
orvacian
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I do not know where you guys are getting this info. I agree that there is about 1.75" of mounting depth but there is no way you will fit a 1" spacer and still get the door panel to go back on and the speaker cone not hit the doorpanel. Mabye a 1/2" spacer but that is probably pushing it.
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Old 04-15-2002, 05:02 AM   #16
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8 months and back from the dead.

A new record?

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Old 04-16-2002, 01:52 AM   #17
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it really isnt that hard, nor does it require a 1" spacer to fit big speakers in the WRX doors. i basically use a hodge-podge of what everyone is saying here. i use a spacer, and either the factory speaker baffle or the grill of the new aftermarket speaker flipped upside down, but then, i also move the window tracks back a bit. very easy to do with some washers, and after all is said and done, deep speakers fit. i am thinking of selling 1/2" and 3/4" spacers on my website, i just havent gotten around to doing it yet.

Kevin
www.subee-sound.com
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Old 04-23-2002, 01:14 AM   #18
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I'd be down for some spacers ... Make em!!!
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Old 11-13-2004, 09:57 AM   #19
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---Front speaker depth measurements---

Here is my lattest take on Impreza 2002-05 front door installs.

A freind stops up with a nice new set of 6-1/2"
mounting depth 2.5" deep with large magnets

3/4" spacer = window hits hard
7/8" spacer = window touches slightly & touches door panel trim* (fixable)
1" spacer = windor misses & door panel trim touches too much!

*We had to take the door panel off & remove all the extra plastic & ribs with a belt sander so "if" the speaker surround were to touch the door panel it wouldn't hit any sharp edges.
Also there is a plastic guide mounted to the glass the screw that holds it is the primarry cause of it hitting. We proceded to remove the glass, take out the screw, pop the plastic peice out of the glass, put the screw back into the plactic peice, & grind it down a little on the belt sander. (yes 120grit will grind steel)
Put the peices all back together & it is a slight rub not even noticeable...

-My speakers were much easier....
mounting depth 2-1/16" deep with average sized magnets
1/2" spacer = Misses the window a lot (1/8" to spare) & plenty of room for the door panel trim...

-If you figure there is only 1-1/2" to 1-5/8" of depth avalible that will get you in the ball park for spacer depth.
For every day do it yourself'ers don't buy speakers with more than 2-3/8" mounting depth & use no more than 3/4" spaccer.
If you are willing to mess with the window mounting I'm sure you can gain another 1/16" - 1/8" we didn't even try that option though...
----
2-1/2" speaker minus 1-5/8" = 7/8" spacer (with issues on large magnets & door panel)
2-3/8" speaker minus 1-5/8" = 3/4" spacer (max easy)
2-1/4" speaker minus 1-5/8" = 5/8" spacer
2-1/8" speaker minus 1-5/8" = 1/2" spacer
2-1/16" speaker minus 1-5/8" = 7/16" (8/16 would = 1/2")

The factory mounting screws are sized for a #10 screw we used #10x1.25" screws to mount the adaptor plates, & #8x0.5" screws to mount the speakers to the plates pre drilling all holes accordingly.

Oh & by the way.... it only took 6hrs including going to the store to buy 1/8" wood to finish the whole darn project, wish I had this info when we had started.

Last edited by GLwagon; 11-13-2004 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 11-13-2004, 10:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLwagon
wish I had this info when we had started.
I really need to keep my mouth shut, but it is hard.

offset
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Old 11-13-2004, 10:21 AM   #21
GLwagon
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I relize it was probibly out there, but my freind reassured me that he looked it up & that we needed a 3/4" spacer...

If you want it done right you have to look for your self...
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Old 02-26-2005, 08:05 PM   #22
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I made 1" thick spacers from plywood by taking out the stock speakers and tracing their lines and mount holes (different than aftermarket speaker housings) onto the plywood and cut one for each side. I also shaved the plastic tabs that are on the inside of the door panel speaker grilles so they wouldn't touch the edge of the speakers (Dremel tool's a lifesaver!). I have no problem with my glass hitting the speaker and with the useless plastic trimmed off the inside of the door panel the speakers fit perfectly. I installed Boston Acoustic....forget the model name/number. HUGE difference vs. stock and easy to do.
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Old 03-24-2006, 04:46 AM   #23
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hey, just thought i'd add a little to this topic. I put some speakers in my car a while back (polk db6500) in the front, and same minus the tweeters in the rear. THIS INSTALL WAS DONE ON AN 05 IMPREZA WAGON

For the front-
1. I had to make a spacer for these, i used the sticky foam thing that went on the back of the speaker for the template, which worked gret because it also had holes that i drilled into, if your speakers don't come with anything like that a piece of cardboard and an exacto knife would work great. Just set the speaker on the cardboard, cut out the speaker, then make a hole that the speaker will fit into and trim the inside of the speaker out...this should make a great template

2. Transfer the template over to the wood that you are going to cut (when you cut the wood, cut the center hole first, that way you aren't holding onto a little ring trying to cut out the center of the stupid thing and not cut all of your fingers off at the same time.)

3. After you have the spacers cut fit them onto the speakers and mark the holes that you are going to use to mount your speakers (the ones on the door and the ones on the speaker wont line up, so you will probably end up drilling into your car.)

4. Once all of this is done mark where you are going to mount the speakers on your door, you don't have to cut any of the door metal becuase the spacer gives you enough room to fit the speaker.

5. I noticed that my door pannel (the sheet metal one) had some ridges in it, i took a C-clamp and tightened it on the ridges, and it took care of any impurities that i had making the spacer rock, or not fit like i wanted

6. After this all you have to do is screw the speaker onto your doors, I went to the local hardware store and picked up some sheet metal screws that were about 2" long, so i could be sure that i got a good bite and that they wouldn't pull out.

7. I cut out the little ridge on the door pannel, i don't know if it was needed, but from reading here i figured it was worth trying and not having to mess with later


Rear-
A few differences exist with these doors, I have an 05 wagon, which has the window stops . This ended up being a plus, because i didn't have to make the spacers that i had made for the front speakers.

Follow all the same steps (if you have window stops, and same body style, i am not familiar with previous generations of the car)

But instead of tracing your template onto a piece of plywood transfer it onto your door. Be sure that this is the inside diameter, NOT THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER, if you use the outside diameter, the hole will be too big!!

Once you have them traced, cut out the holes, if it's too small go back and cut some more, better to be too small than too big. Test fit the speakers and if they fit well straighten out any impurities in the door with the C-clamp just like in the front.

When you drill holes to mount these speakers be sure that the holes are slightly smaller than the screws that you are using (i recomend spending the money on some sheet metal screws, I don't trust the little things that the speakers come with

Once you get the speakers in reinstall the door pannels, and Enjoy your hard work, and good music
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Old 03-24-2006, 03:37 PM   #24
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Old 10-11-2010, 03:02 PM   #25
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^^^ Link down? Website under construction or something. Everything you click on just seems to send you back to the homepage.
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