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Old 06-27-2003, 05:19 AM   #1
supermoose
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swap starr

Thumbs up narg. my ej18->ej25 saga is complete

okay. i have a 93 FWD L. 5 speed, ej18 car, i have a 98 DOHC RS motor (from an automatic RS) in my car now.
its a FWD with rear disc conversion +gastank.crossmember.sway blah, but this last conversion has driven me to nuts.

but - it runs, it pulls HARD, has no bogs and IT IDLES!!!!!!!!!!



its using
-1.8L engine wiring harness
-1.8L ecu and all wiring
-1.8L radiator / fans
-1.8L FWD tranny, flywheel, clutch (cable)
-1.8L crossmember
-1.8L throttle body with intergrated TPS and IAC
-1.8L MAF sensor, airbox, intake pipe
-1.8L ignitor
-1.8L charcol canister
-1.8L fuel pump
-1.8L fuel lines / filter
-1.8L brake booster line
-1.8L throttle body coolant line
-1.8L PCV setup


-2.5L DOHC motor
-2.5L intake manifold
-2.5L injectors
-2.5L sensors (all)
-2.5L coil packs
-2.5L plug wires

disabled (bc my car dosnt care anyway)
- no EGR - block off plate fab'd with alcoa 6061 t6 and dremmel tool
- blocked off IAC on manifold - use ej18 throttle body unit
- 1 million vacume lines blocked off - block off everything that u dont need for the bare essentials

--u can use from either ej18 or 98 DOHC ej25:
--alternator,
--powersteering,
--AC,
--throttle body gasket,
--exhaust manifold (they are the same dimensions - i measured them),
--catalytic convertor - EJ25 is bigger though + same for exhaust
--water pump - same part number
-- radiator cap - ditto although GDA is same also and supposedly 1.1 bar pressure (higher --> better)

**issues - ej18 powersteering lines are bent wrong for the ej25 motor, so it makes taking intake manifold off a hassle. also, u need to use the ej25 bracket to mount it on the engine with.


************************************************** **

it is a simple swap.
everything bolts in, mates up etc.

what i had problems with:

1. my ignitor was toast to begin with. i ran on front 2 cylinders for a while before i realized that #2 and #4 wernt getting spark. BTW your engine will run with the front 2 cylinders only, its slow but not that bad for 2 cylinders.
2. i had a million vacume leaks. use the charchol canister and its ej18 setup
3. ej25 powersteering pump has no plug on it. i have no idea what the ej18 plug on it does. so far, no issues
4. make sure your intake manifold gasket is good. mine was destroyed (by my stupidity and not recognized untill now). toast by #3, leads to intake manifold backfire in #3 and horrible loping idle.
5. dont mix up plug banks from coil. ie making #2,#4 fire at #1,#3 times. BAD.
6. i thought my headgasket was toast (it was the 3 layer). it probbly wasnt, but 13 hours yesterday made me have the new shiny metal 4 layer gasket . shiny. metal. 4 layer headgasket to take more boooooost...... its not that hard to swap. if u have some monkey knowedge, do it yourself. u need 2 friends to hold the cams in place for the left bank (#2/#4) they need to be centred @ lift and will spin out - scary noise if not attended to. note - GDA manual works perfectly - even the teeth #s are the same for spacing for the DOHC motor. same lifter setup etc for 87-98 dohc ej25. 96 is hydro lifter.
7. issues with bogging - not really. i dont have any bogs in my powerband. im guessing its not ideal - 1.8L map, but its not very far off.
8. redline issue = YES . it cuts at 6,000 rpm. im going to get it hacked to 7,000 by yoshio - hopefully with better power curves................


hmm anything else...... blah. i need to sleep right now. oh yeah, if u can rent / steal / buy an engine crane, id suggest u do so. we dropped the entire crossmember and jacked my car up a million inches to slide from underneath. its not bad, but the steering gear line up procedure SUCKS. (got it missmatched 4 times) blah.

any questions, hit me. pm me email me aim me, whatever. hawk296 is the bomb. hes saved my arse so many times on this swap........


peace

h
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Old 06-27-2003, 03:42 PM   #2
stimpy
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Glad to hear you finally got it done.

-Jon
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Old 06-28-2003, 01:51 AM   #3
Hawk296
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Haha i had faith in it. more proof that the 1.8->2.5 swap is possible off the 1.8 ECU.

Imagine how much smoother it would have gone if you had more time to go over the engine on the bench!

now you have to take it to the drag trip and see how it does

my P/S pump did have a plug, i think it was for the anticipater circuit for the P/S to kick up the idle when you turn the wheel, thats all i could think of.

Congrats!
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Old 07-04-2003, 05:58 AM   #4
supermoose
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word. along the lines of going in straight line fast, we played alittle go fast in straight line with elecpork's WRX tonite. his is bone stock ex for stromung back box (76mm twins)

went rolling start from 20-->80mph, then 3rd gear from 40-75mph. pretty much things are dead even. i mean DEAD even.

hmm. drag strip eh?


h
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Old 07-07-2003, 01:37 AM   #5
Hawk296
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the guys at Payne are taking some cars to lapeer on sat july 12th i think it is?? If im in town ill probably tag along and make some runs in the L to see how it is with the 2.5. you should too.
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Old 07-08-2003, 03:05 PM   #6
Imprezd
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Good Job...

Aren't you afraid since the ecu doesn't have a knock sensor and the motor could persay knock until it's self destruction or is the 1.8L so rich and doesn't have that much timing advance to remotely do any damage on 88 octance. Which is what I am figuring...

With that being said it could be 10-15-20 more horsepower on tap.. with like a AFC or some type of ignition timing control.

Good Luck sound like a sweet deal.

I'll be trying an even more radical temporary sultion on my 1.8L motor..

Imprezd~
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Old 07-08-2003, 07:51 PM   #7
DoinkMobb
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Quote:
Originally posted by supermoose
word. along the lines of going in straight line fast, we played alittle go fast in straight line with elecpork's WRX tonite. his is bone stock ex for stromung back box (76mm twins)

went rolling start from 20-->80mph, then 3rd gear from 40-75mph. pretty much things are dead even. i mean DEAD even.

hmm. drag strip eh?


h

That is very cool. WRX-like straight line speed at a fraction of the cost.
Get any major torque steer though?
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Old 07-08-2003, 09:15 PM   #8
Kevin Thomas
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Default Wow

Congrats on your project. I love seeing an EJ25 in an EJ18 swap. Yes! Competition for those Honda motor swapping boys. I'm interested in dragstrip or G-Tech times as well, especially the trap speed. The time itself I don't care about. If only someone could swap an EJ25 into a Justy.

Again, congrats.
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Old 07-09-2003, 01:32 AM   #9
Hawk296
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About the knock sensor issue. I was thinking about this but then I was like, "My 1.8 never knocked". My 2.5 being a 2001 SOHC is higher compression than my 1.8 was. So i ran 93 octanewhen i first started it up, i worked my way down to 87. So far i have had no obvious signs of knock, no preignition or detonation. I have driven it in very hot operating conditions with a lot of load on the engine, still no knocking issues. My guess is that the timing on the 1.8 was set pretty mild to cope with any conditions it may encounter on the cheapest gas it may encounter because it has no knock sensing capabilities. I run 87 octane all the time and have not had any problems.

My Gtech time for mine with a pretty good launch and accidentally hitting the fuel cut in 1st (goes by so quickly now) was 15.5 sec for the 1/4 mile. The speed I forget, I tried to save it but still dont know how to work the new G-tech and erased it by accident. 0-60 MPH showed 7.4 sec on g-tech.

If my car is ready by sat i may take it to the track but if i cant ill g-tech it again and get an estimate on the trap speed.
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Old 07-09-2003, 09:58 AM   #10
cardin555
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Question No knock sensor on 1.8L?

I was not aware of this....
I looked in the service manuel for a 1997 1.8 and its there. Maybe this means the 2.5l will go in easier in my car.

What year is your car?
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Old 07-09-2003, 11:13 AM   #11
Hawk296
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you are 1997 meaning you are probably OBDII. Me being a 95 am OBD I and have no knock sensor.
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Old 07-09-2003, 11:28 AM   #12
Imprezd
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No knock sensor kinda sucks.. but i am having the idea to test a UTEC on my 1.8L ecu and connect a subaru knock sensor unit to the utec and using the utec's knock correction on my car.

We'll see but that's a different project all together I'll be sure to start a new post to see how well that works out.

A big thing I want is knock correction and detection.
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Old 07-10-2003, 10:59 AM   #13
Hawk296
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Yeah I agree with you, it is a good thing to have. Thats one of the things i was really concerned with on the 2.5. HOwever I lucked out and everything worked out okay.
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Old 08-14-2003, 01:48 PM   #14
Rasago
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Would a 2.5 RS motor be a bolt in application for a 93L sedan?
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Old 08-15-2003, 05:19 AM   #15
supermoose
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swap starr

Default b

ump. yeha. its bolt on, its in my car rite now, just drove it around :P
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Old 08-22-2003, 02:44 PM   #16
Rasago
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Default Cool

I may try that convrsion soon, I found a whole front clip of of an RS for 2000. The whol front end is in great condition, so I get the hood and grill and bumper that I want anyways. Could I just swap the ECU to the 2.5 ECU, or is it a big pain? Im also doing a rear drive conversion and a fuel cell and custome speaker encloser to get the weight distibution more even. Any major issues with this swap, Im new to Subaru's, Im used to old school V8's
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Old 09-19-2003, 12:44 PM   #17
supermoose
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2K is a good deal. u wanna sell me a driverside headlite?:P

if u want to run the proper ECU it requires u swapping out entire wiring harness, or frankensplicing the ej25 end into your existing harness - faster to replace the whole thing, which still is NOT a fun job.

RWD converison? there sa whole thread on it, swapping centre diffs physically is easy, i was looking at my own when i was putting my trans in.

h
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Old 09-19-2003, 04:22 PM   #18
Streetman
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Must know about your ECU. What have you done to it?
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Old 09-20-2003, 04:34 AM   #19
supermoose
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Default balrg

ecu: i hvae a no rev-limit stock ECU, got it hacked by a company in colorado. i run the motor up to 7K w/ no issues, and on certian track / mountain runs, it means a world of differance. with my FWD gearbox 2nd gear was good at 7K for 70mph, 3rd good for 90 mph at 7,000 RPM

ive spun my motor to 7500 for a short period of time, but the power drops after 7K



h

Last edited by supermoose; 01-25-2004 at 02:57 AM.
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Old 09-20-2003, 06:31 PM   #20
Streetman
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How did they redo a whole map? Did you go there? I figure sending it away would be tough to guess where to tune it. Email me the name of the company, please. I would like to find ANY info on hacking an ECU. Any other companies you've seen that do it?
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Old 01-22-2004, 12:32 PM   #21
Max Umbarger
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Default A few things i didnt understand

I didn't understand these statements by supermoose at the very beginning:

"1.1 ar pressure"

"BTW your engine will run on the front 2 cylinders only, its slow but not that bad for 2 cylinders"

you dropped the crossmember, do you have to diconnect this?

Then later on 9-19-03 after you adjusted the rev-limit you stated you had drivability problems, what were they and what is it liek now?

thanx

max
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Old 01-25-2004, 02:56 AM   #22
supermoose
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1.1 bar's = 1 bar = 14.3 psi or somthing of pressure. the GDA radiator cap can be used on a NA gc8 L if you would like to. the STI part is a 1.3bar cap. not worth the $45 if the $9 GDA part is 1.1 bar. besides, you wont hit that high anyway..

dropping X-member? requires removing a buncha bolts. perhaps you should get a manual if you are pondering doing a motor swap

h
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Old 01-25-2004, 02:12 PM   #23
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MAx, you do not have to drop the crossmember. that is just the route supermoose took.

UNless you pulling the trans and other parts out, Its easier to lift the engine out of the top with an engine hoist.
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Old 01-26-2004, 12:58 AM   #24
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yes. if u have cheery piker, by all means pull it out from top.

i didnt have one at the time, so i dropped it out the bottom

h
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Old 02-12-2004, 05:28 AM   #25
Streetman
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Can you post about the ECU hack? It get done? Done right?
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