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Old 08-20-2003, 06:29 PM   #1
garface
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Default Radiator hose rupturing on Ver. 8 engine. Help!!! Pics

I have a Ver. 8 UK(same as JDM Ver. 7) engine in my 2000RS. I prefer to post this here first instead of the "conversion forum" because I just want basic answers on the function and complications of what's happening.
I am using an RS radiator and the hose going from the top left cap to the header tank, where the coolant goes on top of the engine is rupturing. I want to know how important this hose is. Will I overheat, lose a lot of coolant, etc? If I stay out of boost will I be ok? Should I just replace the hose with a WRX OEM one or is there something else I can do? How long can I drive with it like this? Have I caused any damage? Thanks for any help. Pics are located below:

http://gallery17817.fotopic.net/show...n.php?id=44643
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Old 08-20-2003, 09:33 PM   #2
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For the time being, you can just go down to Autozone or Checker and buy some coolant hose and put in there. I would imagine it can be a permanant fix, unless you want OEM Subaru parts.

I believe that it is a simple overflow hose and you may be losing coolant system pressure and it obviously losing coolant.

-Jon
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Old 08-20-2003, 09:57 PM   #3
garface
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Thanks. It also appears that the cap itself is spurting coolant. Notice all the white spots on the airbox and the white right under the cap? Is that normal? Do I want to let it vent out there or do I want it to be completely sealed? People have mentioned something about modifying one of the seals on the cap, but I'm not sure exactly what I have to do. Anyone know? Thank you.
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Old 08-20-2003, 11:03 PM   #4
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did you by chance reuse the thermostat that came with the motor? sometimes they freeze up and won't open after sitting for while after draining. I have seen this before.
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Old 08-21-2003, 01:47 AM   #5
garface
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Thanks, any way to check that?
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Old 08-21-2003, 02:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by garface
Thanks, any way to check that?
Are you overheating? If yes, change the thermostat.
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Old 08-21-2003, 12:54 PM   #7
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how did you route your over flow?
did you do it like this
did you remove the spring from the lower cap?

the radiator caps that i used for my lower was from the clip. the rubber had dried and cracked it sprayed water when the pressure was high (read >4000rpm)

i went down to shucks (worst part store evar!) they had both the .9 bar and 1.3 bar caps for like $7 i then took a hack saw and cut the entire lower portion of the cap off so that it would constantly circulate to the upper tank

shame for shunning the conversions crowd

edit: i used 5/16 fuel line for the extra hose that i needed

Last edited by Jaxx; 08-21-2003 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 08-21-2003, 01:23 PM   #8
garface
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What exactly do you have to do to the cap? Did you put the 1.3 bar cap on both upper and lower or something different? Did you modify both caps? I'm not too knowledgeable on the radiator and the caps in general. Thank you.

Last edited by garface; 08-22-2003 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 08-21-2003, 02:59 PM   #9
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***** important only do this if you have your overflow routed the same as the picture above other wise it will be VERY VERY ugly*****

if you look at the picture posted above

top cap
put the 1.3 bar here (pink in picture)
route the overflow from this cap

lower cap
.9 bar(yellow in picture), i put it in a vice and cut the whole lower half of the cap off disgarding the plunger and spring(see below) so that it will flow constantly.. then route the outlet to the upper tank inlet


Last edited by Jaxx; 08-21-2003 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 08-21-2003, 03:07 PM   #10
garface
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Oh, oh, oh... when you say upper cap you mean the "header tank" and lower cap you mean the regular RS cap on the top of the radiator, right? So one line will go from the header tank to the over flow tank on the right of the radiator and the other one will go from the line next to the cap(my broken line) to the header tank. This is the setup I have at the moment except for the caps. The guys at Lachute said something about squeezing the tabs in the cap. Would that work also or just cut it off? Again, thanks, so much. I think I almost have this figured out.
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Old 08-21-2003, 03:13 PM   #11
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squeezing the tabs on the cap makes no sense to me?

what the whole point of this exercise is that the gc8/gda/gdb/legacy turbo radiator has a hose barb that flows coolant to the upper tank .. by removing the spring you recreate the same situation
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Old 08-21-2003, 03:14 PM   #12
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The idea here is to convert your RS cap to nothing more than a fill cap and NOT a pressure relief cap. The header tank will be responsible for the regular radiator cap duties.

-Jon
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Old 08-21-2003, 03:20 PM   #13
garface
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Beautiful, I'm getting this now. So the last question here(hopefully) is what size caps do I get? I'm going to AutoZone right after work, but I don't have my car and the AZ monkeys have no idea what size cap any Impreza uses, or Subaru for that matter.
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Old 08-21-2003, 03:22 PM   #14
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the idiots at smucks looked it up in the computer (using the 1.8 engine as referance it gave the part number for the .9 bar) the 1.3 bar was right next to it on the shelf
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Old 08-22-2003, 03:45 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by stimpy
The idea here is to convert your RS cap to nothing more than a fill cap and NOT a pressure relief cap. The header tank will be responsible for the regular radiator cap duties.

-Jon
If that were the case, wouldn't you put the stronger cap on the lower one? I went to AutoZone, but they only had 16psi and I need 13psi and 19psi roughly from your bar measurements. Does it matter? Hose is fixed. Thanks again.

OH, and apparently Lachute already cut the plunger/spring part off of the lower cap because it isn't there. Should I still replace it? I'm guessing I should, but if the stock cap is rated at 16psi and you're telling me to put a .9 psi cap there, then that would be like 13.5psi, right? So what should I do?

AND... Why did the hose break in the first place? Is anything I'm going to do going to stop it from braking again?
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Old 08-22-2003, 07:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
If that were the case, wouldn't you put the stronger cap on the lower one?
whoa . .just the oppisit ..cutting the spring is like having no spring .. thus it will flow(good) stiff spring no flow (bad)
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Old 08-22-2003, 07:48 PM   #17
garface
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So the PSI or Bar rating is only for how much pressure it takes to compress the spring plunger? So since I'm cutting that off it doesn't matter at all? I was thinking the PSI rating was more for the upper part of the cap, so I thought the higher rating the less likely it would be to leak. So you think my cap is just damaged and that's why it's spitting out coolant under boost? THanks.
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Old 08-23-2003, 12:50 AM   #18
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YAY!
i think we are finnaly on the same page..
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Old 08-27-2003, 05:27 PM   #19
garface
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REPLACED CAP, STILL LEAKING!!!

Jaxx, I put on the new cap. I had already replaced the hose a few days ago. Filled up the coolant to the full line and turned the car on. After about 2-3 minutes of idling, fluid started slowly leaking down next to the cap. I pushed down on the cap and fluid squirted out. THIS IS GREAT!!!!!! What should I do? Should I just get an OEM cap and not modify it? I feel like any cap is going to leak. Why is mine doing this, but yours didn't? I don't want to buy an OEM cap and cut it up, just so that it can leak some more. Do you think it's leaking because it's a cheap AutoZone cap or is there too much pressure in the system? I don't get it. HELP please. I want to drive this thing already. Thanks.
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Old 10-05-2004, 09:35 AM   #20
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dumb question, but is the spot where you put the cap on BENT ?

on straight ?

too much fluid ?
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Old 10-05-2004, 12:18 PM   #21
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Haha....i was reading this thinking, didn't you already go over this. Idiot me forgot to look at the date, lol.
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